Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 6th Aug 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Burning Calves | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbed with Bill M. Face crack.
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Sun 6th Aug 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Thunder Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Mushrooms | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbed with Bill M. Face Crack.
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Sun 6th Aug 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Quick Robin, To The Bat Crack! (The Bat Crack) | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbed with Bill M. Deceiving more difficult than it looks from the ground.
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5.10b | ★★ Wham, Bam, Thanks For The Jam | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbed wit Bill M. Starts on "spider wand" off width, wrap around corner about halfway to fun face crack.
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Sun 6th Aug 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★ V-Slot (Ride A Rock Horse) | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbed with Bill. Really good Off Width climb. Good warm up to "Stuck in Another Dimension".
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Sat 5th Aug 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Lost Souls | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.12b | ★ Ministry | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
5.12c | Kaos | 14m | Average | ||||
5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 1st Aug 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Angel's Arete | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 24th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Wild Seed Area | |||||||
5.11c | ★ Doer, Not A Critic | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
kinda funky
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Mon 24th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Ames Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ The Attacktician | 17m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
sooo good!
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Mon 24th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Wild Seed Area | |||||||
5.10d | Chameleon | 15m | Average | ||||
good warm up
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5.11b | ★★ Wild Seed | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
next go
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Mon 24th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Armed Forces Area | |||||||
5.11b | ★ Mega-Jug (The Mega Jug) | 12m | Average | ||||
almost got it
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Mon 24th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Rod Sterling Crack | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
soo good!
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5.10a | ★★ Quick Robin, To The Bat Crack! (The Bat Crack) | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
little scary mantle
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Sun 23rd Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Ames Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Tasty Flake | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
cruiser
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5.10d | ★ Radial Rimmed | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
fat rolls
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Sun 16th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
great positions, saves 10b moves for last
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Sun 16th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Brain Tweezers | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
3 falls on crux. Did all moves clean.
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Sun 16th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.9 | Celtic Sun | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies | 29m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 16th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Journey To The Center Of The Brain | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 16th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Plumber's Crack | 15m, 1 | Average | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl | 29m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 15th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Out Of Mind | 20m | Average | ||||
Boulder/dyno start
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Sat 15th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Right Side | |||||||
5.7 | Short'n Sweet | 14m | Don't Bother | ||||
short
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Sat 15th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Brain Teasers | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
difficult crux sequence...cool reachy move.
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Sat 15th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Right Side | |||||||
5.5 | Beginner's Luck | 12m | Average | ||||
short
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Sat 15th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★ East Meets West | 34m | ★ Good | ||||
P1 height-dependent and the crux of the climb. Hand traverse ledge was wet and sandy, had to french-free. P2 is sweet.
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Sat 15th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Right Side | |||||||
5.6 | Potato Chip | 12m | Average | ||||
short
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Thu 13th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.10d | ★ High Times | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
glassy
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5.12a | Let The Wind Blow | 11m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
thin and powerful
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Sun 9th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Bubbaweiser | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
10d to first bolt. 10a rest of way.
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5.10c | ★★ St. Pauli Girl | 17m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 9th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.8 | Mr. Ed | 20m | Average | ||||
awkward.
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5.6 | The Distortionist | 15m | Average | ||||
Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Easily Flakey | 85m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Bourbon Sauce | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Super pumpy beginning but then gets easier. Took me a couple tries to unlock the roof but then it went pretty well. I think I'll definitely tick it next go.
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Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Good Book | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Maranatha Area | |||||||
5.7 | Beginners Only | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★ The Mayfly | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
a bit dirty
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5.10a | ★★ Butterbeans | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
sustained. hard laybacks
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Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor White Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Moon Child Posse | 26m | ★ Good | ||||
Very tricky, thin moves at the top. Would be a tough on-site. Didn't get it clean my first go but worked out the crux on TR and confident it will go next time!
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Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Plumber's Crack | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor White Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Almost Heaven | 12m, 4 | Average | ||||
The opening moves are quite tricky and thin for a 10b. Kathy hung the draws for me on this one!!! If you need a warm-up it's there but otherwise I wouldn't bother. We did it as a warm down. Very nice view of the river from the top.
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Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Maranatha Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Where Real Men Dare | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
a bit OW. Ledges. Hard 8.
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Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ All the Right Moves | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got it on my first go hanging the draws!! Woo hoo. I had done it once before but it felt real good this time. Very nice line, very much my style.
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Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.5 | Monkey See, Monkey Do | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Maranatha Area | |||||||
5.7 | In Tribute To Skid | 12m | Don't Bother | ||||
Sat 8th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Zag | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
hard 8
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Fri 7th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Brain Teasers | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
great funky holds
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Fri 7th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
no pump
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5.10b | ★ Springer | 23m | Average | ||||
slab nasty
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5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
roger's tick list
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Tue 4th Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ New River Gunks | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
5.6 | The Distortionist | 15m | Average | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 3rd Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.7 | Eating Bimbo Pie | 15m, 2 | Don't Bother | ||||
Protection and route finding were both tricky. Not recommended.
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Mon 3rd Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Bubba Buttress | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Face It Bubba | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Messed up the sequence pulling the roof, otherwise clean.
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Mon 3rd Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Orchard Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Anal Clenching Adventures | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbed with Mike K, and Bill.
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Mon 3rd Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Bubba Buttress | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Immaculate Combustion | 24m | ★ Good | ||||
Reachy crux!
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Sun 2nd Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First Lead Ever, took a fall and wanted down
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5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Just too burned out to finish
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5.10a | Play it by Ear | 20m | Don't Bother | ||||
Just a poo poo climb in my mind
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Sat 1st Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Zealous Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Chasing Spiders To The Right | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 1st Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Rapscallion's Blues | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One of the best trad routes I've done. Start with a low angle, steep dihedral. Reducing angle leads to more tenuous face moves, to finish with some fun roof moves. Belayed Bill, he cleaned on the way down for me to attempt.
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5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite (New Yosemite (Climbing Under The Influence)) | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Excellent route, though a little short.
Mike K & Bill |
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Sat 1st Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Ames Wall | |||||||
5.11b | ★ Fingers In Da Dyke | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very fun climb. Mostly vertical and technical climbing. Took me 3 goes b/c on the second I tried to go a bit too quickly.... very worth doing.
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Sat 1st Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★ Andropov's Cold | 9m | Average | ||||
Really short, thin crack. To top out at the top of the cliff requires climbing a really dirty face around the arete.
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Sat 1st Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Head Wall | |||||||
5.11d 5.11c | ★ Put Up or Shut Up | 18m, 6 | Average | ||||
Ok climb. Doesn't see much action based on the large tree growing on the roof ledge!!! Super pumpy roof and the top was filthy dirty. I believe the guide I had put this at 11.c
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Sat 1st Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
One move wonder, but a fun route none-the-less.
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Sat 1st Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Wild Seed Area | |||||||
5.10d | Chameleon | 15m | Average | ||||
short
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Fri 23rd Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags First Strike Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★ The Hopfenperle Special | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
5.7 | ★ Midnight Moonlight | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 23rd Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Slabs | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Seventh Sign | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
for the folks
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Sun 18th Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Headless Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Pyro Vixen | 17m | Average | ||||
Thu 8th Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | Dog Fight | 12m | Average | ||||
5.7 | Horton's Tree | 8m | Average | ||||
Fun but way to short!
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Tue 6th Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.5 | Micro Brew | 15m | Average | ||||
Mon 5th Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Springer | 23m | |||||
Sun 4th Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.9 | Celtic Sun | 15m, 5 | |||||
Dates are aproxx.
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5.8 | Assman | 14m, 5 | |||||
5.6 | ★ Five-Five My Ass | 12m, 4 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl | 29m, 11 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies | 29m, 10 | |||||
remember backing down from this climb. the roof really scared me. i hate roofs, keith finished the climb and cleaned it on top rope.
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5.7 | ★ Butterfly Flake | 12m, 3 | |||||
5.6 | ★ Plumber's Crack | 15m, 1 | |||||
my first climb at the New. way back when.
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5.10d | ★★ Lieback and Enjoy It | 18m, 7 | |||||
5.6 | ★ Bobby D's Bunny | 21m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 4th Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Super Mario Boulder | |||||||
5.5 | Guides Route, Left | 12m | Average | ||||
Woo Hoo!!! My first trad lead ever! Couldn't have picked an easier climb. My second gave me a good grade on my placements though and that was the whole point.
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5.10c | ★ Sixteenth Rung | ★ Good | |||||
Kind of fun. Very pumpy at the top and again kind of surprising for a 10. If I weren't stupid it would have gone clean and I didn't feel like doing it again since it was 'supposed' to be a warmup
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5.12b | ★★ European Vacation | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Good lord is this thing hard. Fun as hell but quite a wake up as to what hard, powerful 5.12 is.
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5.10d | Pinckney Route | Don't Bother | |||||
I'm embarassed to say not only did I TR this but I didn't get it clean!! The roof is quite surprising for a 10.
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Sun 4th Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
what a view, 95 footer
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5.6 | ★ Plumber's Crack | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 4th Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Super Mario Boulder | |||||||
5.11b | Unnamed BM#2 | Average | |||||
Nothing special. If you do it traverse left at the 1st bolt. Going straight up and left is VERY hard and not 11b.
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Thu 1st Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Butterbeans | 14m | Average | ||||
Thu 1st Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Maranatha Area | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Maranatha | 20m | ★★★ Classic |