Nodes in Adirondacks

Road is long and dirt - can get very muddy and is almost impassible if the spring is wet. Dry in summer. Single lane road for two-way traffic, so be wary of on-coming cars.

Road is long and dirt - can get very muddy and is almost impassible if the spring is wet. Dry in summer. Single lane road for two-way traffic, so be wary of on-coming cars.

route 73 between Keene and Lake Placid

Amazing pitch on North side of the 73 in Cascade pass between Lake Placid and Keene.

It close to the road, with easy acces, and so has well developed climbing on it.

This is a tree-covered ledge at the left end of the cliff, above an area of vegetated (and not generally climbed) cliffs.

Up then a long (slightly rising) traverse right, then up again.

The next three climbs (Too Early Spring through Rainy Night Toads) all branch off from "Walder-Calder Route" at various points along it, all branching up as Walder-Calder continues rightwards.

A few routes start low in the center of the wall -- right of Roaches Terrace, and left of the Practice Wall.

This is an area of low-angle slab along the base of the cliff. Top of the slab is easily accessible from the right, and this is often used for top-ropes and easy/practice leads. Most anywhere along the wall goes at about 5.3.

At the centre of the base of the cliff is a short slab with a variety of cracks in it. Many variations are possible, most in the 5.3-5.4 range. This area is, also, often top-roped because of easy access to the ledge at the top (from either end) and a number of convenient trees for anchoring off.

As the main trail reaches the wall, take the right branch, and this will descend a bit and lead under the Practice Wall. If you continue far enough to reach a section of talus with water running down it, that is past the end -- but hiking up this then a bit of scramble up and left will give access for top-ropes. (And, to the start of "Pete's Farewell", etc.

These are a set of routes that start from the wide treed ledge above the "Practice Wall".

Many of the climbs from here start up the first pitch of "Pete's Farewell" and then branch from there, or from various places along the traverse pitch.

Ends at belay 2 of "Pete's Farewell".

Ends at the traverse on "The El", not really a complete route in and of itself.

This "route" is more of a direct start to the routes in the "Above the Practice Wall Area" of Pitchoff. It starts in the same spot that Pete's Farewell does, but essentially goes left instead of right and ends up spitting you out right around the middle of the traverse line of the second pitch of every climb in this area. From there you can link it up to whatever your heart desires. In more detail, you start by scrambling on to the first big ledge in the first pitch of Pete's Farewell. From here, break left into a series of left rising, right facing corners. Work up to and overhang which you clear on the far left side. Find and climb up the gently left rising crack which eventually puts out on the traverse line.

1. 5.2 G. 40ft. Same as first pitch of "Pete's Farewell".

2. 5.7 G. 60ft. Traverse left, then more left, then still more left, until below a vertical crack.

3. 5.8 G. 80ft. Climb up the vertical crack then up corner to top.

The next 5 climbs all start somewhere along the traverse section of "Pete's Farewell", all branching upwards while Pete's continues to traverse.

Starts at the P2 belay for "Pete's Farewell". Walk a short bit left from the belay, then head up to a horizontal with a bolt above it. Up this face, then crack above it.

Start at the pitch 2 belay for "Pete's Farewell". Looking up there is an obvious bolt... climb the face and flake past the bolt to a hand-crack to the top.

From the P1 belay for "Pete's Farewell", follow the traverse until it starts to rise. At this point climb up the right-facing corner to a thin crack and upwards zig-zagging left, then right, at horizontals.

From the P1 belay for "Pete's Farewell", only traverse left a few feet, then go up the face to a finger-crack, and follow discontinuous cracks to the top.

From the P1 belay of "Pete's Farewell", go directly up from the belay to find a hand crack that parallels the big corner a bit left of it. Follow this to anchors.

The following 4 routes follow "Pete's Farewell"/'Great Chimney" until the ledge that is at the base of the chimney, then branch off rightwards from there.

(finishes with P2 of "Brrright Star")

(finishes with P2 of "Brrright Star")

Climbs starting from the right end of the wall.

A few climbs share the start of Rugosity.

A link-up. P1 of "Rugosity" to P2 of "Bogeyman", giving a far better route than either of the other two.

Climbs a crack up a short buttress to a tree.

Somewhat contrived -- climb the face between the crack to the left "Etiquette" and the arete to the right, strictly without using either.

Probably best as a top-rope after leading "Etiquette".

nice cliff, easy walk up, nice sunny cracks

Trail crosses private land, take care so that we keep access

Trail crosses private land, take care so that we keep access

Trail crosses private land, take care so that we keep access

Trail crosses private land, take care so that we keep access

Trail crosses private land, take care so that we keep access

Trail crosses private land, take care so that we keep access

The Gothics is a peak of about 4800' in the High Peaks area of the Adirondack park. There are three main climbing zones up Gothics -- the North Face, a 1200' slab, the south face -- about 600' of slab, and the Rainbow Slide on the east face. The approaches tend to be fairly long and involved, and the routes fairly serious for their grade.

The Gothics peak on google maps: http://maps.google.ca/?ll=44.127367,-73.85366&spn=0.026831,0.066047&t=p&z=15

The south face of the Gothics. A 600' (200m) or so south-facing cliff on the Gothics. Generally slab, with the occasionally steeper section and headwall or overlap to add excitement.

Mostly 3rd and 4th class climbing up a long left-leaning crack then slabs with a 5.4 crux (getting from the crack up onto the slabs).

Climbs the right edge of the south face, up easy slabs to a narrow slide that ends a bit beneath the hiking trail. Shares the last 3 pitches with "Gothic Arch".

1. 200' (65m) 3rd class.
2. 200' (65m) 3rd class.
3. 60' (20m) 5.4 PG
4. 60' (20m) 5.4 PG
5. 80' (26m) 5.6 PG
6. 80 (26m) 5.6 PG

The north face of the Gothics. A large, not very steep slab with a number of scrambles.

An east-facing slide on the Gothics.

Lots of good, longish, routes with easy approaches.

The Main, up to 400' eastern-facing cliff along highway 9.

(44.40390, -73.50404)

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.