Showing all 58 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Ancient Mariner Buttress | |||||
18 X | Kitty Gobsmacker
Start 10m L of 'Cowboy Clip' up little face to top. Scary and dodgy but with nice babylonian start. FA: Simon Atkins, 1995 | 12m | |||
22 | ★ Cowboy Clip LH Start
| 10m | |||
21 | ★ Cowboy Clip
Fun easy roof jugging to short headwall. Warning: There have been at least 3 incidents of quickdraws being worn through or severed from repetitive falling on the 1st bolt of this climb - take care if this is near your limit! FA: M.Portman, 1992 | 10m | |||
25 | ★ Silent Rage
Punchy little roof problem down low. Don't blow the 4th clip - people have hit the tree. The moves direct past the last bolt do still go, so it probably makes the most sense to treat the round-the-world miles out to the left as being part of the 23 and not part of this route. FA: A.Bull, A.Dunbar & S.Wythe, 1992 | 15m | |||
23 | Silent Rage (Crunch's Variant)
Start as for Mr Curly then left on FHs into top of Silent Rage. To keep it at the grade you probably want to do the round-the-world way out left of the last bolt. FA: john smoothy | 12m | |||
17 | ★ Mr. Curly
Short juggy corner. FA: Neil Crabb, 1992 | 10m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ Diana Ross
Subtle black arete that seeps after rain. FA: V.Kondos, 1994 | 15m | |||
19 | ★ Albatross
Squeezed in wall starting as for 'Ancient Mariner',then leftwards past carrots to anchor in the middle of the wall. FA: F.Lumsden & M.Whitehouse, 1989 | 16m | |||
19 | ★ Ancient Mariner
The left side of the main arete on the mini wall. FA: B.Junge & M.Portman, 1994 | 12m, 5 | |||
17 | ★ Creature Without a Brain
Climbs just right of the main arête. Cops morning sun. FA: M.Portman., 1994 | 15m | |||
14 | ★ Squashed Parrot
Ring bolts to lower off on the undercut grey slab. FA: M.Pekin & L.McManus, 1989 | 18m | |||
18 | ★ Neil's Thing
No longer missing a bolt down low - in fact it's all new bolts. FA: Neil Crabb, 1992 | 12m, 5 | |||
Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | |||||
AID:A1 | Klaus's A1
Ugly metal waste sticking out of the roof! | ||||
23 | ★ Sprouts Mexicane
Sharp jugs. Lefthand route on the main wall. Start as for Sydney Rose, traverse left for three bolts then head up the steepness. FA: S.Bell & C.Vandereydt, 1995 | 15m | |||
24 | ★★ Sydney Rose
Steep power packet. All rings to lower offs. FA: J.Smoothy, 1989 | 12m | |||
27 | Slipping on Something Comfortable
Should see more traffic, definitely worthwhile. Great angle in the bottom half. Boulder direct past 3rd bolt, no need to pike left into Sydney Rose. Then a Lyptus-type headwall which is pretty clean despite appearances. No anchor: step R to Eureka's. FA: M.Baker, 1992 | 18m, 7 | |||
23 R | ★★ Eureka
A very worthwhile alternative to Euchre; shared start for 5-6m then head left. The run out to the anchor is exciting but easy. Now has new ringbolts. FA: L.Trihey & J.Smoothy, 1989 | 25m | |||
23 | ★★ Euchre
FA: J.Smoothy, 1989 | 22m | |||
22 | ★★ Eucalyptus (Link-up)
Link up. Starts up Lyptus for 4 bolts, extend the draw and move left into Euchre. Small runout but good holds. Easier warm up option than Lyptus and still fun. | 20m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★★ Lyptus
One of the best warm ups for the harder routes and a fine route to earn the grade also. Very popular. Anchor replaced 16/10/18. [If the headwall of this route is wet, an equally good but dry 23 is “Lyptus Power”: Lyptus to the crux then easily R across Grape Hour (which will also be wet up high), to join Grey Power]. FA: J.Smoothy, 1989 | 23m, 8 | |||
25 | ★★★ Grape Hour
Classic pumper in the middle of the wall - get a ticket and get in line. Start at the enormous permanent cairn. Stickclip essential. FA: Mike Law, 1994 | 22m, 8 | |||
25 | ★★ Grape Power (Link-up)
Start up Grape Hour into the finish of Grey Power. You move R just before the 3rd bolt of GH. Good luck at saying all these route names and not getting confused! | 20m, 8 | |||
27 | ★★ Grape Power Extended Dance Remix (Link-up)
Grape Power into Onions (Extended Dance Mix) via the top 2 bolts of Veteran's, avoiding the Veteran's anchor jugs. If you finish at the Veteran's anchor its a good 25 (Grape Affair). | ||||
26 | ★★ Grey Power
Start 3m R of the enormous cairn of Grape Hour. Clip the low RB so that the leader doesn't slam into the rope working the hard moves to the 2nd bolt. Very tough thin moves past the first 2 bolts then the right side of the scoop. Most people step L at the last bolt but the glued up flake direct finish goes too. FA: J.Smoothy, 1989 FA: john smoothy, 1989 | 20m, 8 | |||
27 | ★★ Veteran's Affair
Start as for Grey Power (if you think the start feels hard it used to have a jug...). After the 2nd bolt veer R (3rd bolt often gets skipped). After the 5th bolt go straight up, despite what all the chalk circling around to the left might suggest. Clint FA: G.Bradbury, 1997 | 20m | |||
31 | Dont Believe the Hype (Link-up)
Start up Veteran's, into Onions, through Mudeye and finish up Don't Believe. A very similar link is Hyper (30), which skips the Mudeye pocket move by traversing R beneath it to the base of the flake on Don't Believe. Yet another similar link is Bunions (softish 29), which starts up Veteran's, joins Onions at its 4th bolt and finishes up Onions Extension. FA: N.Hoette | 25m | |||
27 | ★ A New Rhythm
New start into Aneurysm. If you traverse left into Grey Power to avoid the top crux you've done "Spray Power" at about grade 25. Straight up is the way to go. FA: Stuart Simons, 2017 | 17m | |||
28 | ★★ Onions (Extended Dance Mix) Digitally Remastered 2017 Edition
Start 3m L of Onions. Boulder your way up to the first link bolt of Aneurysm then straight up into Onions. Hopefully frees the Onions start up a bit. FA: Stuart Simons, 30 Sep 2017 | ||||
29 | ★★ A New Hope
New start into Mudeye then finish direct via Onions Extension. Loads of fun climbings and a good option if the Onions start is under siege. FA: Stuart Simons, 2017 | 20m | |||
27 | ★★★ Aneurysm (Link-up)
Start up Onions to 3rd bolt then head left into Veteran's Affair. Rebolted 28-03-19 FA: Mark Ashmore, 2006 | 20m | |||
26 M1 | ★★ Onions Original Version
| 18m | |||
27 | ★★ Onions
The original route up the right side of the wall, to anchors beneath final bulge. This used to be 26. FA: G.Bradbury, 1989 | 20m, 8 | |||
28 | ★★ Onions (Extended Dance Mix)
This ones for those who like to get full value from their climbing experience. Having reached the anchors of Onions keep chugging, move right and up and finish at anchors now shared with Don't Believe the Tripe. Originally 27. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1992 | 25m | |||
29 | ★★ Mudeye (Link-up)
Onions for 5 bolts then a cool pocket boulder to move R into Don't Believe. FA: S.Atkins, 2000 | 22m | |||
29 | ★★★ Don't Believe the Tripe
The Boronia classic and continually under siege. Onions start, head R as for Tripe to 5th bolt, L into the flake and up. Fixed draws are a common sight on this route and become extremely sharp very quickly. Check them carefully or risk death. Bin any sharp ones you find. Clint Inalee FA: S.Johns, 1993 | 22m | |||
33 | ★★★ Mechanical Animals | 20m | |||
30 | ★★★ Tripe | 22m | |||
29 | Camel Toe
A RHF for Tripe. FA: B.Littleford, 2006 | 25m | |||
28 | ★★ Green Eggs and Ham
Traverse. Onions start, then head R as for Tripe, then traverse the lip all the way to the right. Back jump to clean. FA: M.Baker, 1992 | 22m | |||
Project - Zac
Project starting up Big Wednesday then heading left through roof, joins Green Eggs at the crux and finishing ...probably up Tripe but maybe Mechanical Animals! | 30m | ||||
Project - Ben
As for Big Wednesday, then up through the bowl and into Tripe. | 30m | ||||
30 | ★★★ Big Wednesday | 27m | |||
Lee's Traverse
Up Big Wednesday then right and up. FA: L.Cossey, 2011 | 20m | ||||
27 | ★ Blood Sausage
Short steep wall 10m left of offal. The entire crux and grade has been circumnavigated since the first three ascents by a jug out left which was not reachable or cleanable during development and appeared chalked and cleaned aboutva year after f.a, therefore grade is 25-26. R. Hoffman made first ascent using crimp directly above flake as intended, then C. Coghill ripped it in half. If your ever wondering how it was 28 and your imagination fails you...try it without going in the opposite direction to where the bolts are and skip the jug horn out left. (Still soft) Set: Eww FFA: Roman Hoffman, Jan 2017 | 8 | |||
23 | ★ Offal
A solid 23. Located 80m right of Big Wednesday. Rebolted 2018 thanks to Kip for the bolts. Stickclip first u bolt and also use draw on mallion to keep rope and belayer in a nice place. Very chossy and hard moving past first bolt. The difficulties continue until eventually settled in corner. From there on up good climbing on dirty rock. If everybody brushes something it should clean up nicely. FFA: Mikl Law, 1883 | 20m | |||
23 | ★ Open Slather
Walk about 80m past Big Wednesday. Very high stickclip then traverse in from right and across to big ledge. Consider a sling on first bolt otherwise noticeable ropedrag. Up to second bolt with care then good sustained climbing to loweroff. Rebolted with U-Bolts courtesy of Kip. December 2018. FFA: Mike Stacey, 1991 | 20m | |||
Lower Cliff | |||||
23 | A Permanent Shiver
Route has not been located. From 2002 print guide "Rap in from carrots down and right from Albatross. Up again past carrots and fixed hangers." This route may also require trad but it was not mentioned in the original write-up. FA: Wade Stevens, 1996 | 20m | |||
24 | ★★ Shameless
The middle of the orange wall. Locate double Ubolts set back from the edge of the main lookout spot (and near two old rusty dynabolts). Fix rope and rap straight down wall to full hanging belay about 15m above the ground. Route starts with a little traverse left then up gorgeous orange face, through small rooflet and finishes up face just left of corner system on fragile unusual holds. | 37m, 12 | |||
23 | ★★ Pop the Question
An exciting long subtle arete route which hasn't had a lot of love. Still totally climbable despite a bit of lichen here and there. Maybe the new bolts may lure a new generation? Fix a 50m rap rope from two U bolts set well back from edge above small corner. Rap down, (clipping into a few bolts as directionals) to a total hanging belay on single bolt and #2 Friend about 10m above the ground. The route is mixed and wanders a bit so you need at a double set of medium sized cams (0.5 to 3 Camelot) and a bunch of long runners. Rebolted 2020 - no bolt plates required anymore. FA: L.Trihey, L.Korendyke & J.Smoothy, 1989 | 45m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★ Naughty Little Monkey
Absolutely worth the hassle of a rap in climb out route. Brilliant orange rock for most of the way and visible from above from right side of Ferris Cave. Added bonus - belay is from a small ledge - not a pain hanging belay like other routes here. Shares the same rap anchor as Pop the Question (two U-bolts above short corner) but rap straight down to small ledge (about halfway down the wall). Bizarrely bolted with a totally random mix of carrots and rings - so bring at least 8 bolt plates. FA: M.Bennis, 2000 | 30m | |||
Alphabet Wall | |||||
17 | Aint No Side Stepper
Top rope route off ringbolt and chain anchor on top of cliff. Climb impermanent jugs left of Battery Chicken. | 15m | |||
21 | ★ Battery Chicken
Left side of wall - shared start with Pixie Drink. FA: P Martin, 1994 | 15m | |||
19 | ★ Pixie Drink
Shared start with Battery Chicken then right line. FA: P Martin, 1994 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Freakin 'n Groovin
FA: P Martin | 15m | |||
23 | ★ C
Far right route on wall - written up as 25m but old topo show it the same height as nearby routes (15m) FA: Saxon Johns, 1994 | 25m | |||
25 | ★ Born Again Losers
Left route off shared start FA: P Martin, 1994 | 8m | |||
24 | F
Middle route FA: S Bell, 1994 | 8m | |||
24 | Gee (G)
Right route FA: P Martin, 1994 | 8m |
Showing all 58 routes.