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Routes in Boronia Point

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Showing all 58 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Ancient Mariner Buttress
18 X Kitty Gobsmacker

Start 10m L of 'Cowboy Clip' up little face to top. Scary and dodgy but with nice babylonian start.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

Trad 12m
22 Cowboy Clip LH Start
Sport 10m
21 Cowboy Clip

Fun easy roof jugging to short headwall. Warning: There have been at least 3 incidents of quickdraws being worn through or severed from repetitive falling on the 1st bolt of this climb - take care if this is near your limit!

FA: M.Portman, 1992

Sport 10m
25 Silent Rage

Punchy little roof problem down low. Don't blow the 4th clip - people have hit the tree. The moves direct past the last bolt do still go, so it probably makes the most sense to treat the round-the-world miles out to the left as being part of the 23 and not part of this route.

FA: A.Bull, A.Dunbar & S.Wythe, 1992

Sport 15m
23 Silent Rage (Crunch's Variant)

Start as for Mr Curly then left on FHs into top of Silent Rage. To keep it at the grade you probably want to do the round-the-world way out left of the last bolt.

Sport 12m
17 Mr. Curly

Short juggy corner.

FA: Neil Crabb, 1992

Sport 10m, 3
21 Diana Ross

Subtle black arete that seeps after rain.

FA: V.Kondos, 1994

Sport 15m
19 Albatross

Squeezed in wall starting as for 'Ancient Mariner',then leftwards past carrots to anchor in the middle of the wall.

FA: F.Lumsden & M.Whitehouse, 1989

Sport 16m
19 Ancient Mariner

The left side of the main arete on the mini wall.

FA: B.Junge & M.Portman, 1994

Sport 12m, 5
17 Creature Without a Brain

Climbs just right of the main arête. Cops morning sun.

FA: M.Portman., 1994

Sport 15m
14 Squashed Parrot

Ring bolts to lower off on the undercut grey slab.

FA: M.Pekin & L.McManus, 1989

Sport 18m
18 Neil's Thing

No longer missing a bolt down low - in fact it's all new bolts.

FA: Neil Crabb, 1992

Sport 12m, 5
Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
AID:A1 Klaus's A1

Ugly metal waste sticking out of the roof!

Aid
23 Sprouts Mexicane

Sharp jugs. Lefthand route on the main wall. Start as for Sydney Rose, traverse left for three bolts then head up the steepness.

FA: S.Bell & C.Vandereydt, 1995

Sport 15m
24 Sydney Rose

Steep power packet. All rings to lower offs.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

Sport 12m
27 Slipping on Something Comfortable

Should see more traffic, definitely worthwhile. Great angle in the bottom half. Boulder direct past 3rd bolt, no need to pike left into Sydney Rose. Then a Lyptus-type headwall which is pretty clean despite appearances. No anchor: step R to Eureka's.

FA: M.Baker, 1992

Sport 18m, 7
23 R Eureka

A very worthwhile alternative to Euchre; shared start for 5-6m then head left. The run out to the anchor is exciting but easy. Now has new ringbolts.

FA: L.Trihey & J.Smoothy, 1989

Sport 25m
23 Euchre

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

Sport 22m
22 Eucalyptus (Link-up)

Link up. Starts up Lyptus for 4 bolts, extend the draw and move left into Euchre. Small runout but good holds. Easier warm up option than Lyptus and still fun.

Sport 20m, 7
23 Lyptus

One of the best warm ups for the harder routes and a fine route to earn the grade also. Very popular. Anchor replaced 16/10/18. [If the headwall of this route is wet, an equally good but dry 23 is “Lyptus Power”: Lyptus to the crux then easily R across Grape Hour (which will also be wet up high), to join Grey Power].

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

Sport 23m, 8
25 Grape Hour

Classic pumper in the middle of the wall - get a ticket and get in line. Start at the enormous permanent cairn. Stickclip essential.

FA: Mike Law, 1994

Sport 22m, 8
25 Grape Power (Link-up)

Start up Grape Hour into the finish of Grey Power. You move R just before the 3rd bolt of GH. Good luck at saying all these route names and not getting confused!

Sport 20m, 8
27 Grape Power Extended Dance Remix (Link-up)

Grape Power into Onions (Extended Dance Mix) via the top 2 bolts of Veteran's, avoiding the Veteran's anchor jugs. If you finish at the Veteran's anchor its a good 25 (Grape Affair).

Sport
26 Grey Power

Start 3m R of the enormous cairn of Grape Hour. Clip the low RB so that the leader doesn't slam into the rope working the hard moves to the 2nd bolt. Very tough thin moves past the first 2 bolts then the right side of the scoop. Most people step L at the last bolt but the glued up flake direct finish goes too.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

FA: john smoothy, 1989

Sport 20m, 8
27 Veteran's Affair

Start as for Grey Power (if you think the start feels hard it used to have a jug...). After the 2nd bolt veer R (3rd bolt often gets skipped). After the 5th bolt go straight up, despite what all the chalk circling around to the left might suggest. Clint

FA: G.Bradbury, 1997

Sport 20m
31 Dont Believe the Hype (Link-up)

Start up Veteran's, into Onions, through Mudeye and finish up Don't Believe. A very similar link is Hyper (30), which skips the Mudeye pocket move by traversing R beneath it to the base of the flake on Don't Believe. Yet another similar link is Bunions (softish 29), which starts up Veteran's, joins Onions at its 4th bolt and finishes up Onions Extension.

FA: N.Hoette

Sport 25m
27 A New Rhythm

New start into Aneurysm. If you traverse left into Grey Power to avoid the top crux you've done "Spray Power" at about grade 25. Straight up is the way to go.

FA: Stuart Simons, 2017

Sport 17m
28 Onions (Extended Dance Mix) Digitally Remastered 2017 Edition

Start 3m L of Onions. Boulder your way up to the first link bolt of Aneurysm then straight up into Onions. Hopefully frees the Onions start up a bit.

FA: Stuart Simons, 30 Sep 2017

Sport
29 A New Hope

New start into Mudeye then finish direct via Onions Extension. Loads of fun climbings and a good option if the Onions start is under siege.

FA: Stuart Simons, 2017

Sport 20m
27 Aneurysm (Link-up)

Start up Onions to 3rd bolt then head left into Veteran's Affair. Rebolted 28-03-19

FA: Mark Ashmore, 2006

Sport 20m
26 M1 Onions Original Version
Aid 18m
27 Onions

The original route up the right side of the wall, to anchors beneath final bulge. This used to be 26.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1989

Sport 20m, 8
28 Onions (Extended Dance Mix)

This ones for those who like to get full value from their climbing experience. Having reached the anchors of Onions keep chugging, move right and up and finish at anchors now shared with Don't Believe the Tripe. Originally 27.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1992

Sport 25m
29 Mudeye (Link-up)

Onions for 5 bolts then a cool pocket boulder to move R into Don't Believe.

FA: S.Atkins, 2000

Sport 22m
29 Don't Believe the Tripe

The Boronia classic and continually under siege. Onions start, head R as for Tripe to 5th bolt, L into the flake and up. Fixed draws are a common sight on this route and become extremely sharp very quickly. Check them carefully or risk death. Bin any sharp ones you find. Clint Inalee

FA: S.Johns, 1993

Sport 22m
33 Mechanical Animals

Oz's first 34! Since relegated to a tame 33. A 6m direct variant of Tripe, squeezed in between Don't Believe and Tripe. Ben Tom Jake

FA: Ben Cossey

Sport 20m
30 Tripe

Onions start then trend R up onto the awesome steep grey wall, then drift back L. Axel Jarmila Clint

FA: M.Baker, 1992

Sport 22m
29 Camel Toe

A RHF for Tripe.

FA: B.Littleford, 2006

Sport 25m
28 Green Eggs and Ham

Traverse. Onions start, then head R as for Tripe, then traverse the lip all the way to the right. Back jump to clean.

FA: M.Baker, 1992

Sport 22m
Project - Zac

Project starting up Big Wednesday then heading left through roof, joins Green Eggs at the crux and finishing ...probably up Tripe but maybe Mechanical Animals!

SportProject 30m
Project - Ben

As for Big Wednesday, then up through the bowl and into Tripe.

SportProject 30m
30 Big Wednesday

Start about 15m R of the shared Onions start. Very dusty base, and often muddy/seepy start holds, but great after that. Tackle the steep R-leaning line of flakes and then the biggest part of the roof. JackM Tom

FA: M.Baker, 1994

Sport 27m
Lee's Traverse

Up Big Wednesday then right and up.

FA: L.Cossey, 2011

Sport 20m
27 Blood Sausage

Short steep wall 10m left of offal. The entire crux and grade has been circumnavigated since the first three ascents by a jug out left which was not reachable or cleanable during development and appeared chalked and cleaned aboutva year after f.a, therefore grade is 25-26. R. Hoffman made first ascent using crimp directly above flake as intended, then C. Coghill ripped it in half. If your ever wondering how it was 28 and your imagination fails you...try it without going in the opposite direction to where the bolts are and skip the jug horn out left. (Still soft)

Set: Eww

FFA: Roman Hoffman, Jan 2017

Sport 8
23 Offal

A solid 23. Located 80m right of Big Wednesday. Rebolted 2018 thanks to Kip for the bolts. Stickclip first u bolt and also use draw on mallion to keep rope and belayer in a nice place. Very chossy and hard moving past first bolt. The difficulties continue until eventually settled in corner. From there on up good climbing on dirty rock. If everybody brushes something it should clean up nicely.

FFA: Mikl Law, 1883

Sport 20m
23 Open Slather

Walk about 80m past Big Wednesday. Very high stickclip then traverse in from right and across to big ledge. Consider a sling on first bolt otherwise noticeable ropedrag. Up to second bolt with care then good sustained climbing to loweroff. Rebolted with U-Bolts courtesy of Kip. December 2018.

FFA: Mike Stacey, 1991

Sport 20m
Lower Cliff
23 A Permanent Shiver

Route has not been located. From 2002 print guide "Rap in from carrots down and right from Albatross. Up again past carrots and fixed hangers." This route may also require trad but it was not mentioned in the original write-up.

FA: Wade Stevens, 1996

Sport 20m
24 Shameless

The middle of the orange wall. Locate double Ubolts set back from the edge of the main lookout spot (and near two old rusty dynabolts). Fix rope and rap straight down wall to full hanging belay about 15m above the ground. Route starts with a little traverse left then up gorgeous orange face, through small rooflet and finishes up face just left of corner system on fragile unusual holds.

Sport 37m, 12
23 Pop the Question

An exciting long subtle arete route which hasn't had a lot of love. Still totally climbable despite a bit of lichen here and there. Maybe the new bolts may lure a new generation? Fix a 50m rap rope from two U bolts set well back from edge above small corner. Rap down, (clipping into a few bolts as directionals) to a total hanging belay on single bolt and #2 Friend about 10m above the ground. The route is mixed and wanders a bit so you need at a double set of medium sized cams (0.5 to 3 Camelot) and a bunch of long runners. Rebolted 2020 - no bolt plates required anymore.

FA: L.Trihey, L.Korendyke & J.Smoothy, 1989

Mixed trad 45m, 8
23 Naughty Little Monkey

Absolutely worth the hassle of a rap in climb out route. Brilliant orange rock for most of the way and visible from above from right side of Ferris Cave. Added bonus - belay is from a small ledge - not a pain hanging belay like other routes here. Shares the same rap anchor as Pop the Question (two U-bolts above short corner) but rap straight down to small ledge (about halfway down the wall). Bizarrely bolted with a totally random mix of carrots and rings - so bring at least 8 bolt plates.

FA: M.Bennis, 2000

Sport 30m
Alphabet Wall
17 Aint No Side Stepper

Top rope route off ringbolt and chain anchor on top of cliff. Climb impermanent jugs left of Battery Chicken.

Top rope 15m
21 Battery Chicken

Left side of wall - shared start with Pixie Drink.

FA: P Martin, 1994

Sport 15m
19 Pixie Drink

Shared start with Battery Chicken then right line.

FA: P Martin, 1994

Sport 15m
23 Freakin 'n Groovin

FA: P Martin

Sport 15m
23 C

Far right route on wall - written up as 25m but old topo show it the same height as nearby routes (15m)

FA: Saxon Johns, 1994

Sport 25m
25 Born Again Losers

Left route off shared start

FA: P Martin, 1994

Sport 8m
24 F

Middle route

FA: S Bell, 1994

Sport 8m
24 Gee (G)

Right route

FA: P Martin, 1994

Sport 8m

Showing all 58 routes.

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