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Summary
Fantastic long multi pitch routes that top out on a real summit. Some of these are ten pitches plus and grade in the 7's. Top pitches are well sculpted with "Tafoni", which is a feature of corsican granite
Description
You could spend a whole two week break on this mountain crag alone. If your after shorter 2 and 3 pitch routes then head for the high platform on the right called the Grand Vire. Bolts are spaced on the long routes. Take a small rack of trad gear to suppliment these.
Access issues
I know of no access issues
Approach
The start of the footpath is a little hard to find, but is fairly straight forward after that. It is quite a steep walk in and can take up to an hour. The slog up hill is worth it though.
Where to stay
Camping les Eaux Vives, between Ajaccio and Bocognano. 0495528109
Ethic inherited from France
Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.
History
The long routes were developed nearly 20 years ago by Jean-Toussaint Casanova (great name) and Didier Micheli. (Casanova died 5 years later re-bolting his master piece Carillon du Desespoir, which is a 9 pitch sport route graded at 6b+ with one pitch of 7b+.
Plan your Trip
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Bertrand Maurin & Thierry Souchard
Date: 2022
ISBN: 9782957118021
Das Standardwerk für Korsika / Corsica. Beschrieben werden mehr als 2700 Routen in 87 verschiedenen Klettergebieten.
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Author(s): Bertrand Maurin & Thierry Souchard
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9782957118014
Korsika / Corsica ist nicht nur Sportkletterparadis. Auch die Freunde langer Wege kommen auf der Mittelmeerinsel voll auf Ihre Kosten. Beschrieben werden 110 Mehrseillängen von z.T. mehr als 500m.Die beschriebenen Routen liegen überwiegend im 6 franz. Grad, es finden sich jedoch ebenso Wege im Bereich von 4+ bis 7b+.
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Author(s): Nicole Kuzar, Volker Roth
Date: 2020
Kletterführer Korsika präsentiert die besten modernen Alpintouren sowie einige herausragende klassische lange Linien. Übersichtlicher Auswahlführer mit 100 Touren aus den schönsten Klettergebieten Korsikas. Ausführlich beschrieben auf 256 Seiten.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Fri 12 May
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