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La Bóveda de las Españolas

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 6
  • Ascents: 14
  • Aka: Main Wall

Seasonality

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Description

This is the tall "cathedral like" wall right of the fenced in area. It offers excellent climbs, mostly multi-pitch on great rock with outstanding features. The cliff is in the shade most of the day, some climbs might see morning sun depending on the season.

!!WARNING!! - bolts on this cliff seems to show seaside corrosion and it was reported that some simply broke by pulling on them with a carabiner. To be safe, just climb re-bolted routes with glue-ins.

Approach

Pass the fenced in area (construction materials) on the road and take the next trail left towards the cliff. It will lead you to the right side of the cliff. Follow the base left and up to reach your climb of choice.

Ethic inherited from Cuba

Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

These routes are right of where the trail hits the wall and are listed left to right.

FA: Josué Millo & Jusnier Blanco, 2005

FA: Josué Millo & Fransua Bosmenier, 2004

Unfinished route?

FA: Josué Millo & Jusnier Blanco, 2005

These routes are listed right to left! The approach trail hits the wall at about "Nueva Vida".

FA: Javier Alvarez & Vitalio Echazábal, 1999

1 6c 27m
2 5 25m
3 6a+ 25m
4 7a 24m

FA: Vitalio Eschazabal, 2001

Same anchor as Visado Familiar.

FA: Martín Moline & Ariel Pasqueletti

FA: José Naranjo, 1999

1 6c 30m
2 6c 30m
3 7a 25m
4 7a+ 25m

First pitch is Visado Familiar.

FA: Aníbal Fernández & David Ryan, 2001

This route links "Visado Familiar" with the upper pitches of "Viernes 13".

FA: Lynn Hill, 2004

1 6 30m
2 6a+ 25m
3 6c 25m
4 7a 25m
5 7b 15m

Another classic on this impressive wall!

FA: Craig Luebben, Cameron Cross & Armando Menocal, 2000

FA: Gianni Faggianna & Massimo Iacolare

Rebolted, starts between 2 tufas right of the cave and trends slightly right and up into the cave.

FA: Rosanno Boscarino, 2000

1 6b
2 6b+
3 7c
4 6a

Pitch 1 is La Preferida.

FA: Aníbal Fernández, Josué Millo & Gianni Faggiana, 2003

This is an alternate 3rd pitch of Mercenario and combines Mercenario and Have a Cigar.

FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2002

FA: David Ryan, 2000

1 6a 15m
2 6c 30m
3 7a 30m
4 6b 25m

First pitch is Pablo’s Squirmfest.

FA: Craig Luebben & Cameron Cross, 2000

1 6b+
2 6a
3 7a+

This climb starts right of Mucho Pumpito and joins it at the first anchor. Pitch 2 is the same and Pitch 3 is the "left variant". Descend as for Mucho Pumpito.

FA: Craig Luebben & Cameron Cross, 2000

1 6a+ 25m
2 6b 30m
3 7a+ 25m

An absolutely awesome route with great exposure and rock structures you have to see to believe!

Access the start by hiking up to the cave. It is best to prepare in the cave and leave your stuff there. Scramble up the ledge on polished rock on the left of the cave and look for the tufa column on your right.

As of May-2019 only the first 2 pitches have been rebolted - as with all routes at the Costanera watch the bolts if they are not re-bolted glue-ins!!

  • Pitch 1: 9 bolts; Start right of the tufa column and up into the cave to exit it to the left. Follow great holds to an anchor right of the "Mucho Pumpito Ledge" - a very comfortable belay for pitch 2. The anchor consists of 3 unlinked glue-ins.

  • Pitch 2: 11 bolts plus a couple of slings; follow the super exposed overhanging arete out right on increadible holds for 30m of pure fun. A no-hands rest at the tufa in the middle might reduce the pump. A sports anchor is located on top of the ledge.

  • Pitch 3: A short pitch out right (the original last pitch). Many people do not climb this pitch, if you do, lower down to the anchor and rap from there to the ground. An alternative to the left is available as well (see "Pssst!" pitch 3).

FA: Craig Luebben, Cameron Cross & David Ryan, 2000

1 7a 25m
2 6b+ 35m

FA: Craig Luebben & Cameron Cross, 2000

This huge ledge (and its climbs) are accessed by climbing the first pitch of Mucho Pumpito.

FA: Brad Lynch & Ned Harris

FA: Aníbal Fernández & Josué Millo, 2003

FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2003

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Thu 27 Apr
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