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Diamond Island All Bouldering 41 routes in area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 17
41
BLDV
VBVB+V0-V0V0+V1V2V3V4V5V7

Seasonality

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F
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M
J
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D

Description

Diamond Island has some nice freestanding boulders and walls on its seaward side.

Access issues inherited from Tasmania

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Approach

To get there park at Redbill Point and walk north along the beach to the spit which connects the island to the mainland. At low tide you should be able to easily walk across. Walk around the southern side of the island for about 5 minutes or so until you get to the south east corner where the boulders start.

Ethic

Nesting site of many bird species including penguins. Leave the animals alone and respect the island in general.

History

History timeline chart

Routes collected and added to the crag. Names and grades kept as they were however Moby Dick Wall had no grades or names despite likely being climbed before.

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Contents

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Routes

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Grade Route

Moby Dick Wall Back to contents

This large sheared off wall is the first decent bit of rock you come to.

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2
V0 Tail End Boulder 2m

Step off huge flake onto wall, then mantle.

3
V1 Syke's Whale Wash Boulder 4m

Step onto ledge and up the slabby face.

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4
V8 ★★ Whale toes Boulder 4m

Start with hands on obvious jug then move up to lip and finish out whale lips. Could be easier

FA: Marco McLean, 30 Jan 2023

5
V5 ★ Whale lips Boulder 4m

High step onto lip (hard part) then up the arete (easy part), hang start could also go.

FA: Marco McLean, 30 Jan 2023

Diamond Boulder Back to contents

This beautiful free standing boulder is hidden behind the red slabs to the right of the Moby Dick Wall. Landings will be effected by tide.

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7
V1 Don't Say it Mr Trump Boulder

Sitstart up little corner on left side of boulder

8
VB VE Boulder

Easy featured slab, also the descent

9
V0 You're Fired Boulder

Sitstart under arete, up on big jugs

10
V2 V2 Boulder

Up face just right of arete. The thin sitstart might go.

11
V2 V2 Boulder

Slab in middle of face. Sitstart might go.

12
Project Boulder

Sitstart up arete to tricky slab

Front of the Diamond Boulder, which faces the sea.

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14
Project Boulder

Start on high flat hold 1m right of arete. Up to flake and topout.

15
V2/3 Jack of Diamonds Boulder

Sitstart in corner and follow ramp rightwards, then up onto ledge

16
V2 Queen Of Diamonds Boulder

Up arete from awkward sitstart

17
V0 King of Diamonds Boulder

Beautiful featured face.

Barnacle Boulder Back to contents

30m south of the Diamond Boulder is this little roof.

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19
V3 Barnacle Roof Boulder

Start on hold under left side of roof. Don't use rock to the left.

20
V3 Barnacle Bill Boulder

Start on the right hand edge of the roof, traverse left and then up.

Diamond in the Rough Area Back to contents

From the Moby Dick Wall, head left down a small gulch to find this great area of freestanding boulders and walls. Most of the problems here are easy to moderate, but there are some blank slabs and walls that may or may not have been done.

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22
V1 V1 Boulder

Face and mantle left of crack

23
V5 Diamond in the Rough Boulder

Crack in middle of face. The sit start is a bit awkward. Grade is an estimate.1

24
V3 V3 Boulder

Face using sidepulls.

25
VB VE 1 Boulder

Easy right arete

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26
VB VE 2 Boulder

Arete

27
VB VE 3 Boulder

Crack

28
V3 V3 Boulder

Sitstart to jugs

29
V3 V3 Boulder

Traverse right to left along jugs

30
V? Boulder

Project? - hard slab up arete

31
V0 V0 Boulder

Hand crack

32
V? -Project Boulder

Sitstart on arete, up left

33
V1 V1. Boulder

Sitstart on arete, go right then up

34
V0 V0 Boulder

Nice crack in slab

35
V0 V0 Boulder

Nice crack in slab. Can be done as a SDS

36
V3 V3. Boulder

Start under little overhang, up and over.

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37
V0 V0 Boulder

Crack

38
V2 V2. Boulder

Nice little arete

39
V?. Boulder

Project - start under arete on R of face, move left and up

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40
V?-Project Boulder

Cracks up face

41
V1 V1 . Boulder

Jugs left of arete

42
V?- Project Boulder

Flake in middle of face, up to slab

43
V? Project Boulder

High holds 2m right of flake, up to slab

44
V0 V0. Boulder

Traverse jugs in either direction from corner to corner

45
V1 V1 Left of Arete Boulder

Start a couple of meters left of arete on jug, pull up and mantle

46
V3 SDS V3 Boulder

SDS, up arete

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Climb Tasmania Selected Best Climbs

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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Wed 26 Apr
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