Missed the onsight first shot, took completely the wrong approach from the ground. Was not prepared for this climb.... * Gear Beta spoiler alert *...
We did not like this climb, but that's a matter of taste so don't be hating
Have read reports of a soaring crack with good gear I started base up with a full rack minus 3s and 4s cams.... In fact the entire route is pretty much wires only on pretty sketchy rock.
Pitch one - hard stabbing with some shitty directional wires (facing the wrong way) in wet cracks. Most of the wire placements are small or micro and the rock is not really hard enough to give much confidence. All falls involve swing and scrape. Gear failure means a high likelihood of serious injury. The rock is damp and lichenous. Some shrubbery grows from the line.
Missed the onsight due to gear concerns at the crux which is a leftward traverse on damp holds and feet.
There are some wire options mid crux to make it safer, took a while to fire this out... Also the flake at the finish is completely detached. Do not place cams here. Belay from an anchor of small wires above the flake.
Second pitch is a similarly scarely wire fest. At easier grade.....
Might be better in warmer weather.
Good to have done but not super fun at the time...
Bring almost no cams (or micros only) and a double rack of small wires.
- with
tom baanders
We did not like this climb, but that's a matter of taste so don't be hating
Have read reports of a soaring crack with good gear I started base up with a full rack minus 3s and 4s cams.... In fact the entire route is pretty much wires only on pretty sketchy rock.
Pitch one - hard stabbing with some shitty directional wires (facing the wrong way) in wet cracks. Most of the wire placements are small or micro and the rock is not really hard enough to give much confidence. All falls involve swing and scrape. Gear failure means a high likelihood of serious injury. The rock is damp and lichenous. Some shrubbery grows from the line.
Missed the onsight due to gear concerns at the crux which is a leftward traverse on damp holds and feet.
There are some wire options mid crux to make it safer, took a while to fire this out... Also the flake at the finish is completely detached. Do not place cams here. Belay from an anchor of small wires above the flake.
Second pitch is a similarly scarely wire fest. At easier grade.....
Might be better in warmer weather.
Good to have done but not super fun at the time...
Bring almost no cams (or micros only) and a double rack of small wires.