A more intense day than expected! I have the 2006 version of the Yam book which cites this little bit of Yam history (it was the first mixed climb bolted & cleaned on rappel) as having a short distinct crux of 11c. It turns out that several key holds have broken off this climb and the 2nd crux pitch (fully bolted) is now likely sustained 11+ with a 12a slab crux. The rock is fairly crumbly there and I broke off 2 more 'ok' holds attempted to free it. I suspect it will continue to get harder for a while yet. Even 'French Freeing' this there are mandatory 5.11+ moves required. The second crux pitch (45m, 11b mixed) is more sustained than expected and just when you get tired, it gets steep climbing this overhanging pillar of yellow rock. I was stoked to climb the 11a trad sections clean but simply didn't have the endurance to hang on through the steep upper part of the pitch. The rest of the pitches are solid, protect well, are significantly easier and thoroughly enjoyable. All in all it was a great day out on this little piece of Yam history before the mountain closes down for the season for track maintenance. We also found several loose nuts on the climb (which we tightened by hand) and the crux bolt you aid on has no nut at all. I would recommend bringing a spare nut, hanger and spanner if you intend to climb this route incase it is still in that condition.
