Quite a crazy looking pitch of climbing! Certainly longer than photograph's I'd seen made it appear.
Great mix of jamming, stemming, and weird arm bars while you shake out your claves.
The crack didn't feel like a 20 to me, perhaps closer to 18/19. I felt the hardest one or two moves were exiting the crack at the top as you step out onto the face.
Rock quality within the crack was generally decent. Several portable holds on the faces either side, however.
Medium - large wires and hexes were my primary protection. Plus small - medium cams.
Hangers are decently spaced but where you need them. Didn't see any placements on this pitch, but didn't feel the need for any gear.
Went past the actual anchor for this pitch and belayed from the top of the second last pitch of Ross Miller Route (up and left). This made exiting via Blabbermouth easier.
Mixed trad 220m, 6
★★
Very Good
A great day out with Alex! Hopefully we'll get a few more in before he racks off to Canada.
Overall a fun, well protected route with a greatcrux pitch and smatterings of questionable rock throughout.
Started up pitch 1 around 9am, topped out around 1pm. Didn't bother with the last pitch. Descent via Blabbermouth.
Gear
Wires & hexes (DMM 1-3)
Cams: 00-4 (DMM). Doubles 0-3 if you want, and I reckon you could fit a 5 in there too.
Overall a fun, well protected route with a great crux pitch and smatterings of questionable rock throughout.
Started up pitch 1 around 9am, topped out around 1pm. Didn't bother with the last pitch. Descent via Blabbermouth.
Gear
Wires & hexes (DMM 1-3)
Cams: 00-4 (DMM). Doubles 0-3 if you want, and I reckon you could fit a 5 in there too.