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Ascent of Sideshow Bob by Robert Hartley

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Showing all 1 ascent.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Mon 1st May 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan
NE Buttress Sector
20 Easy Sideshow Bob - with Alex
1 10 28m Second lead by Alex

Easy scrambling up lichenous rock to the bolt. Bit damp in the gully.

2 13 30m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

Typical nondescript Tibro access pitch. Bolts where you need them, and a nice wire near the top.

3 15 30m Second lead by Alex

A 30m percussion instrument.

Lots of dummy, suspicious rock at either end of this pitch.

4 16 45m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

The route this pitch follows wasn't immediately obvious to me. Generally up and left from the belay, for future reference.

A really nice pitch of climbing. Bolts are well spaced, but wire placements are easily found.

5 13 20m Second lead by Alex

A fun little traverse. Lots of projectiles sitting in the gully.

6 20 30m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

Quite a crazy looking pitch of climbing! Certainly longer than photograph's I'd seen made it appear.

Great mix of jamming, stemming, and weird arm bars while you shake out your claves.

The crack didn't feel like a 20 to me, perhaps closer to 18/19. I felt the hardest one or two moves were exiting the crack at the top as you step out onto the face.

Rock quality within the crack was generally decent. Several portable holds on the faces either side, however.

Medium - large wires and hexes were my primary protection. Plus small - medium cams.

MVP:
#2 hex at the top of the crack!
7 16 32m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

A nice pitch of climbing with solid rock.

Hangers are decently spaced but where you need them. Didn't see any placements on this pitch, but didn't feel the need for any gear.

Went past the actual anchor for this pitch and belayed from the top of the second last pitch of Ross Miller Route (up and left). This made exiting via Blabbermouth easier.

Mixed trad 220m, 6 Very Good
A great day out with Alex! Hopefully we'll get a few more in before he racks off to Canada.

Overall a fun, well protected route with a great crux pitch and smatterings of questionable rock throughout.

Started up pitch 1 around 9am, topped out around 1pm. Didn't bother with the last pitch. Descent via Blabbermouth.

Gear

Wires & hexes (DMM 1-3)

Cams: 00-4 (DMM). Doubles 0-3 if you want, and I reckon you could fit a 5 in there too.

 

Showing all 1 ascent.

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