I spent 4 days on this route over the last 4 years -including my first attempt "group up" with Emil in the snow (back when no one really knew anything about this route, except that it looked rad).
P1 and P3 are inconsequential, but P2 is absolutely stunning. Its basically a mega mega left-leaning seam-crack at 24/25, guarded by a V8+ crack boulder that I could "sort of" do the moves on, but never really had any chance to link.
Over my visits, I replaced the anchors on this, so there's really no reason for you not (prospective ascent reader) to get on it.
One of the very best cracks in the mountains but I did not find it to be jugs. Seven days of effort, one some years ago and then recently three on TRS and three with partners. Thanks Paul for the send belay and Harry and Will for coming down on the other days to support. For the third pitch I did a long traverse right to meet up with Telstar placing no gear. It's a bit of a choose your own adventure up there but at least this way was easy...ish. Someone go do it and tell me what grade it is.
I don't know if what I climbed has just seen its first ascent, but for the self-preservation of prospective ascentionists and their belayers, I hope it's seen its last.
A grand adventure of strangely masochistic attraction, that follows whichever stack of hollow blocks appears to pose less chance of death.
Keen for pitch 2, but Zac's leading this next time 🙃.
P1 and P3 are inconsequential, but P2 is absolutely stunning. Its basically a mega mega left-leaning seam-crack at 24/25, guarded by a V8+ crack boulder that I could "sort of" do the moves on, but never really had any chance to link.
Over my visits, I replaced the anchors on this, so there's really no reason for you not (prospective ascent reader) to get on it.