Ascents of Andromeda

4th session, 4th go overall. First serious attempt I guess that wasn’t an intended beta burn. I gave myself a 70% chance of doing it perfectly today (with no idea how far I would get even doing so) and the conditions were bone-dry. 4 days ago it was absolutely atrocious with the crux feeling near-impossible in the humidity of the approaching storm.

Second 5.13, 7 days after sending Fun de Chichunne. Honestly on the send this did wind up feeling on the soft side with all the kneebars, but still way harder than the other 7c’s I’ve done here and elsewhere in the Balkans.

An apprenticeship in kneebarring for me. Pretty astonishing how good the rock still is for such an old route. I used very different beta from any I have seen for lower and upper cruxes (no toe hook, and no weird match in upper tufa hold), and put the draw on the wrong crux bolt, so hd to clip from the middle of the crux. oops. 5 or 6? total tries

working out beta again

Always walked past this and thought the top tufa looked like fun. It didn't disappoint.

Finally had another look at this one -- maybe doable without the toe hook? Pad seems pretty necessary to me!

Could not solve the reachy move at the crux.

wow what a line on tufas and pinches with amazing knee bars, so many climbs to come back to

tried just beginning, 5 draws. beautiful route! just wasn’t warmed up enough and the wind was insane! next time!

3rd go, but the first try I got about 3 bolts in and realised my finger was spraying out blood... Second shot after that. Bouldery and maybe a touch soft

the route need good grip conditions. Nice and difficult tufa action!

Tickety tick - cleaning up an old dog.

Back on the wagon again.

2 burns. Fell on the finale.