This is going to be controversial, but this route is just not very good. It's superdifficult to protect, has mega reachy carrots, and loads of ledge-fall potential. It also just doesn't have very fun movement. I honestly can't understand why it gets as many stars as it does. If you want a good 18, just go
climb Interstate.
Awesome. Really enjoyablearete and face climbing with a delightful step out over the void off the last ledge. Direct start is goodfun, but be prepared to downclimb if you aren't finding the holds you want.
Toppie Solo Onsight. Between the fallen off start holds, odd (but safe) bolting and the whole stop-start, this feels like a climb that's a little past it's prime.
Like old uncle Bill dozing off in the rocking chair - he's full of stories and we love him. Yet he snores at the most inappropriate of times and we lowkey know he was much cooler back in the day.
"onsight" though I did bail on the right-hand variant start first. This time did the left-hand variant by starting around the arete at 'Soldier of Fortune' and belly-traversing in. "Protected" by a psychological 0.4 placed from the ground that fell out as soon as I was around the arete.
Felt a little sketchy until I boarded the carrot train, and even then I contemplated some moves long and hard from the ledges. It was often tempting to take a direct line up the face but this will deprive you of the real novelty of this climb: the airy, exposed moves as you step off ledges and onto the overhung parts of the arete.
Placed 5xCarrots + C4#0.4 (0.5 better?) + 2x#3 + 1x#2, +2 carrots for anchor. Walk out from top.
Thought 5 carrots but also the first one was very hard to clip, maybe off line? or just short person problems. But that section would have been pretty scary without it. Traversed in from the left for the start.
warm up for the day. V0 start my ass! scary as with a back breaking exposed root fall. Opted to come in from left side. No3 camalot 8 mtr up for first piece,
Very nice, very hard moves through the initial arette. Says in guide book V0 but no way, more V3 boulder. Most come in from the left though for the 18 tick.
Traversed in from left at start on lead then went direct on 2nd. Awesome route with some super rests in comfy ledges. Def a mixed route with plenty of carrots where you need them except for the start
Late start checking out cosmic for first time. Worth the walk just to get on this. Cant think of a better 18 in the mountains. Did direct start. Grade 22/23 moves to first break then great varied climbing. Runout start before first decent gear
