Ascents in The 39 Steps as Onsight

Such a good route, had to fight pretty hard at the top

So fun, nearly vomitted from pump, great gear double rack 0.2-2 incl 2 x black tots. Feels similar to worrying height, harder then the 23s at frog

Couldn’t find any wire placements and also couldn’t find the thread. Next time I would just take 2x#4s for the horizontal breaks and bolts plates

Really fun, well protected. As crimpy and slabby as anyone could wish for ^_^

Spooky but very fun

Fantastic route, surprisingly good actually.

Very good and flowy climbing, with no particular crux. Excellent rock and gear

This thing is unbelievable. Great gear, great rock, a nice thin runout to the anchor after getting dangerously pumped on fingers/thin hands. Unreal.

Was not comfortable. Was very numb. Probably wasn't the best end of day climb to start half an hour before sunset. My brain didn't comprehend that when the guide book said "up past bolt and sling runners" it meant 1 chickenhead and 1 carrot for the entire second half of the climb. Once again Niki had to clean up my mess in the dark after getting properly numb and cold. Sorry Niki.

i found gear in one of the runouts between the bolts..

really pleasurable climbing lots of gear lots of restful positions

Jumped on this thinking it would be a cruisy sport climb... Luke informed me at the 2nd bolt that I was supposed to take gear, and I'm only just now discovering its "R" rating. It's possible I linked some of 'Bic Disposable Boulevard' - there were a lot more carrots than the description suggests. Thanks, Luke.

The bouldery start wasn't too bad. I'm guessing the "R" is for the certain groundfall you risk at the 2nd carrot (and I didn't even spot any gear in between the 1st and 2nd). I hauled up some gear at this point and continued on. Crux is up high on the slab - 2 good crimps but delicate feet I didn't trust at all with my 10yo crack shoes. But it has 2 closely spaced carrots! After countless false-starts and many minutes brushing holds, chalking up and feeling for hidden crimps, I clipped the higher carrot for some courage and finally committed to a smeary L foot, high R foot and a throw up to the ledge. Caught the jug just as my feet slipped.

Upper crack was seeping so after throwing a wire in I skirted around the L of it.

Gear: .75 behind flake, medium nut in crack at the top, lots of bolt plates.

I’d rather not be sailing. Fantastic arete grabbing, with enough razor edges for quality cranking and enough jugs to enjoy in between. Loved the boulder problem start especially with the pre clipped ring. Would have enjoyed a #4 near the top but otherwise it felt well protected for the county

I think this route is misunderstood and perhaps that is why it gets some bad reviews and inflated grade - for some it seems that expectation does not meet reality! This is a naturally protected route - wires and cams. I'm not sure from where people get the idea that it should be bolted or is missing bolts, or is grade 18. The printed guides for the past 40 yrs have it being listed as a natural gear grade 16 ('A Climbers Guide to the Northern Hartley Valley, Penney 1981, The Rock magazine insert 'The Cosmic County Guide' Penney 1988, 'Rockclimbs of the Upper Blue Mountains' SRC circa 1994, 'Blue Mountains Climbing' Carter 2015). If you go up without gear anticipating bolts then perhaps expect a scary hard time. Take the appropriate gear with you and have your trad head screwed on and then experience the route for what it is "An exceptionally pleasant route up a fine black wall. Fortunately its quite a lot easier than it appears" (Penney, 1981). Personally I found the route to thread it's way up a thin wall linking good move sequences and gear placements - and that it is delicious in it's uniqueness compared to the bolted lines that tease to the right and left.

Classic face climbing up sharp crimps.

Absolutely insanely good. Sporty moves on finger locks and jambs, and bomber gear the whole way.

again medium cam or .75 or 1 is really a matter of interpretation. may i suggest a .5 or .4 - heck go both and build yourself a comfy nest. a very surprising success as last climb of the trip. thanks slab - a weak climber with decent footwork's best friend. direct? no thanks - i'm here for the tick. and maybe the best (read: 'generous and kind and heartwarming') bolting you'll find at the county. what are you waiting for??

Sustained excellence

Exiting lead on rusty 🥕 nice climb.

Gets 3 stars from me. The moves under the little roof were awesome!

Was a lucky Frist shot with plenty of mental support from the bottom.

condis