Ascents of North Buttress Direct Start

6.5 hours on route. 9 from Phil's bivy. Marian- Barrier traverse off.

Highly recommend bivvying as high as possible. We did a variant start that I don't recommend I scrambled up onto sloping ledge from left hand end and built a poor belay (sling, purple peanut, upside down cam) before it turned to slab. Pitch 1: 19 * 46m Diagonal right across slab and up into hanging v corner (#3 & #4 quite useful here, step R around arete and climb the easy face above, then crimpy traverse R to a belay at a cramped stance at the base of the second 19 pitch on the Direct North Buttress Pitch 2 19 * 40?m Up steep handcrack corner to a big chockstone belay on the arete of the buttress. Shared with Standard Route Pitch 3 16 30m? Up nice finger crack left of the buttress to big ledge with horn belays Pitch 4 17 45m Tricky corner on the right, then up to chockstones on the prow Pitch 5 14 * 40m Short juggy face to easy slab, belay at small stance with a big block and cracks. A bit runout but easy. Pitch 6 16 * 48m Somewhat runout face to belay in groove (red totem helpful). Second had to simul a little with 50m ropes Pitch 7 15 Start up groove then face on right on ribs and featured rock to nice sloping stance below gully. Pitch 8 50m 13 Up gully and cracks on right. Lots of cracks for belays, no big stances. Pitch 9 14 50m Up nice slabby face on right, into blocky gully on left when necessary. Big ledge near summit Pitch 10 15m Up chimney on left onto summit ridge (might be able to walk around?)

Walk and scramble through boulders to summit. We abseiled a scary line that I wouldn't recommend down the north east face from a slung boulder pinch.