Ascents of East Buttress

Does it count as a clean send if you undergrip on mega jugs on a 5.8 then fall 2m onto a ledge standing and your belayer doesn't even notice?

Sick Yosemite intro - p6 was the scariest thing I've ever led, 2 pitons and one worthwhile cam placement over 30m of traversing while still not totally trusting the granite smears - the handholds were the equivalent of pulling on a stale arnotts lemon crisp at points.

Felt like I went through a footwork class over 10 pitches and it finally started to click by the end. Shit's rough in the valley.

Linked 1/2, 3/4, 7-8.5 then ran out of rope.

Very good Route!

Heaps of chossy rock to look out for though

Made me feal a bit that I was climbing in the mountains...

We linked 3-4 easy

And 7-8 in a mega 70m long pitch

I would suggest not linking 1 with 2

The start of 2 can be a bit commiting, Nicer to have the belayer next to you, to stop you for decking

We aided the bolted pitch

Could have been fun to try climb it, but not fun if we wasted that time and got caught out in the dark for the last couple of pitches

Especially when you need to do 12Raps to get out Rumor has it to better Rap that do the walk off..

The flake after the bolt ladder and pitch ten were may favorite bits but nearly every pitch was fantastic.

So good!! P1/2 & 3/4 link nicely. Stoked to onsight the 10c slab and be rewarded with fun roof moves and beautiful flake to the anchor. Rapped down. Great day out.

Did the nice 10a face variation. Good route with some loose rock. Make sure you finde the rappel route.

5.9 A0. Fucked the last move on the 10c slab.ill Blame the sun for that one

Up was fine. But Sloan-bagged once again, we simulrapped straight down the wrong gully (apparently marked “NO!” on mountainproject).

What was meant to be easy raps with a 60 became absolute ropestretchers with our 70m, mostly off little shrubs and requiring exposed down-aiding, unbelayed because the shrubs would probably rip.

When the trees were bomber we would simulrap again, comically running across the wall in search of further non-existent anchors for the “easy raps with a 60”.

Led every single pitch on this route, I almost got sick of leading after topping it out. It took us 2 hours to find the repel station and I did the run repel which made me climb up again almost in darkness.

Lead every pitch. The squeeze chimney really gives it to you.

Absolute classic!

Swinging leads and linked 1-2 & 3-4. Aided the bolt ladder for speed (and because it’s a hard polished slab)

Climbed in 5 pitches with the 10a variation

First route, first classic in Yosemite Had a minor epic on the rappel missing the new rappel route and ending up on the old one which required double ropes ...

Awesome Yosemite intro, fun and definitely worth it

Pulled on the bolt ladder through the slab, otherwise all onsight and free

Did crowded hour variation. And some others. Do the new rappel descent from top of 10 th pitch. An hour of simul rapping.

Had a tough time locating the catwalk decent, lost an iPhone at the summit and did not bring enough water for a summer-in-the-valley day. Otherwise, an amazing climb!

With Laura. 1st five pitches went well and were done in 2 or 3 hours, then my upset guts started to get the better of me. Climbed the next five pitches in blazingly hot conditions while carrying a reeking poo bag and getting increasingly sick and dehydrated. Pulled on a lot of gear in the final pitches. Pitch 10 looks awesome, but by that stage I was reduced to aiding almost everything, so I didn't get to find out what the free moves were like. I'll be back to climb this again in better style.

What an awesome route! the 5.10c crux is quite short, bolt protected and face climbing. The rest is about 5.9 / 5.10 crack. Mega Classic!

Led pitch 7 & 9, all day adventure