Ascents of Camelita

Very technical Vertical climbing. Got nervous in the 2nd go at the crux move

Awesome route, BUT very poor bolting and sketchy anchor

Did the crux from big hole not as undercling, and went straight for the sharp knob and then to the small hole, this one as side / undercling for 2-3 fingers. Get your left foot up and go for the sharp little edge. Finish of on balance and sharp edges with finger power.

The crux starts at the big left undercling. I needed to use the intermediate pocket and a tiny crimp to reach the next solid undercling. It doesn't end there. It is balancy and committing until you are past the next bolt. As long as you aren't too pumped the holds are all there! Lots of fun!

2nd Go

Give it one or two more bolts and it might as well become the crag classic!

#2go

Very space out bolts and run out at some Points, tricky to read in the middle where the crux is with crimps and complex foot sequences that keeps you on your toes all the way to the hallelujah jug near the anchors.

Did this with the skin of my teeth... Hard for the grade!!

Really cool route, did it in the sun and peeled off the crimps. It's the name of my bungalow so I'm going to need to do tick it!

Technique. Runouts.

Nearly died of heatstroke at 2pm. Left the draws on the bottom half, and came back to send at 5pm.

I thought the tufa would be the hard part, sustained edges and pockets in the top half.