Ascents of Monarch

I don’t give this a “mega classic” because I have to finger lock at the crux, and it hurts ! But otherwise it’s a mega line. Fly through the crux. Super dynamic moves. And get pumped as hell as the route gets steeper and the holds get bigger. Got it with two hangs.

Probably pretty soft for the grade

Finger configuration matters! Went on day three's warm up, attempt #5. Awoooooo. Thanks Cat Ba gang; Emma, Giom and Swena.

I remember feeling incredulous as I stuck all the moves to transfer from the finger lock to the actual hold... Scott yelling out to keep going! Had a wobbly moment near the top but finished without even getting pumped! Finally!

Deja vu. One fall. Frustrating. Either I stretch my arms by 5cm, somehow find extra contact strength or I think I'm going to have to give up... Easy to the top again...

1st shot to get the draws on. 2nd shot can get to finger lock but fell off trying to get hand on crux hold. From crux hold to top clean. Frustrating... Having to add 3 more moves than the boys is going to slow me down on this one.

First shot At putting on the draws. X2

Second shot, got the girly version crux move! So marginal. But fingers are so bruised I can't climb anymore today.

1st shot today, first 28, went perfectly, very happy with this. Great route.

3 shots. Nearly got crux. Can't reach hold like the boys so have to add a finger lock plus 2 more moves. Makes it very exciting but bruises my fingers. Pain will be the decider on this one...

3 more shots today, high pointing on the 2nd. Getting closer

first shot was promising. thought I had worked out the moves...

second shot was actually worse. can really feel my lung infection slowing me down. two parts of the crux, I have the second part worked out and will try the first part scotts way... when I have some more energy. really flailed at the roof this shot. no juice in the tank at all!

Had trouble trying to work out a sequence on the crux first and 2nd time around, think I have something sorted now. Nice climbing.

Batted higher than average today. I think the crux is easier for long reaches, as I was able to move into the crack statically. Really, just excellent climbing. Though the final overhang isn't as hard as the rest, its still very fun climbing, from the bottom until clipping the anchors.

Freakin awesome! This cliff just keeps on giving. Super bouldery crux sequence with wild swings on fingerlocks and campussing on perfect, bullet stone. No footholds! One of my best new routes. Could be 8a? [3]

Unlocked crux, but couldn't link to the following campus move. Weird that.

First working burn after bolting. Freakin awesome. Could not yet solve the transition out of the crack. All other moves done. Simon also had a burn.