Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun 26th May 2024 - Weir | ||||||
| Mur de l'ouest 2ème étage | ||||||
| 5.7 Hard |
★★ Aucun Idée
| 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 18th May 2024 - Lac Tucker | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★ Birthday Bunduru (original route)
1
5.9
25
Was soaking wet, so much more challenging. Rested on gear about half-way up, otherwise clean.
2
5.7
23
First few moves off the anchor are 5.7 -- rest about 5.5 or easier.
3
5.9
36
Took three tries to get the initial traverse right from the anchor, which is thin slab (5.9). Rest goes closer to 5.7, but is run-out near the end.
4
5.5
35
A rambly final pitch, and committing as a 5.5 leader since moves at grade need to be done before the first gear placement. | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Lead this with P1 soaking wet, except followed P4.
|
||||||
| Sun 12th May 2024 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
| La Petite Folie | ||||||
| 5.4 |
★★ Encore! mon lapin
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 12th May 2024 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
| Controverse | ||||||
| 5.5 |
★ hiroshima
| 30m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
|
Actually climbed this as Hirosaki -- gear up the opening section, then past the intermediate anchor on the bolts from Nagasaki to finish on its anchor.
|
||||||
| Fri 3rd May 2024 - Rocher du Capitaine | ||||||
| Les voies | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Zenith
| ★ Good | ||||
| 5.9 |
★★ DragonFly
| 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Wet in places, especially the crack, making it a bit more exciting.
|
||||||
| 5.7 |
★ La Centrale
| ★ Good | ||||
| Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Lone star | ||||||
| 5.8 ~5.7 |
★★ Métaphysique de Descartes
| 20m, 3 | Average | |||
| 5.6 Easy |
★★ Haute en couleur
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.6 |
★★ La voie normale
| 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.7 |
★ Rencontre au sommet
| 28m | ★ Good | |||
| 5.5 |
★★ Trois fois rien
| 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.5 |
★ La quatre voies
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.6 Easy |
★★ Highball
| 12m | Average | |||
| Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
| Grand Canyon | ||||||
| 5.5 Hard |
★★ Le Marchand de Sable
| 16m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan | ||||||
| Secteur les Escaliers | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★★ Le Diedre
| 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Still my favourite climb at the crag.
|
||||||
| Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan | ||||||
| Le Mur Principale | ||||||
| 5.7 Hard |
★★ La Fruitee
| 25m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
|
More crack-protected face climbing than crack climbing. Not a bad climb, but not my favourite.
|
||||||
| 5.7 Hard |
★★ Momo
| 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
5.7 with crack skills, harder without.
|
||||||
| Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Western Cwm North Wall | ||||||
| 5.5 |
★★ Route C
| 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.4 |
★★ Route B
| 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
| Lower Cliff | ||||||
| 5.8 ~5.7 |
★★ Know When to Hold'em
| 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lone star | ||||||
| 5.6 |
★★ La voie normale
| 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.5 |
★★ Trois fois rien
| 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
I think I put 4 pieces in -- I was a bit run-out in the upper-middle section.
|
||||||
| Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Lake Cliff Left Side | ||||||
| 5.6 G |
★ BrOkleys
| 18m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Star Trek Sector | ||||||
| 5.6 |
★ Calabogie Sunset
| 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.6 |
★★ Phasers on Stun
| 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
| 5.5 ~5.4 |
★ Flaky Flake
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
| Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Western Cwm North Wall | ||||||
| 5.5 |
★★ Route C
| 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.4 |
★★ Route B
| 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Lone star | ||||||
| 5.9 ~5.8 |
★★ 4 à 6
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Hard to commit at the opening move, but more a commitment issue than anything.
|
||||||
| 5.6 Easy |
★★ Haute en couleur
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.5 |
★ La quatre voies
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
The rock was very humid, making the start trickier than it would normally have been.
|
||||||
| 5.4 |
★ Gourgandine
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 17th Jun 2023 - Eagle's Nest | ||||||
| Main Cliff | ||||||
| 5.6 Hard |
★★ Perspective P1
1
5.6
| 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Only P1, but lovely fun.
|
||||||
| Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
| Mur de l'Université | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Trench Warfare
| 27m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
More sport than trad -- something like 8 bolts and 2 gear placements.
|
||||||
| 5.9 |
★★ Chasseur de primes
| 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Climbed the sport/slab start. Happily had gear for the final crack this time, since I knew it was there.
|
||||||
| Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
| Mur Cathédrale | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★★ Metal Cheetah strikes again
| ★★ Very Good | ||||
|
Good climbing and good gear.
|
||||||
| Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
| Le fou | ||||||
| 5.9 ~5.7 |
★ La valse des retraités P1
1
| 45m, 14 | ||||
|
Well, P1 is sport, but the crag won't let me log it that way. Oh well.
|
||||||
| Sat 29th Apr 2023 - Rocher du Capitaine | ||||||
| Les voies | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Zenith
| ★ Good | ||||
| 5.6 |
★ Petit Stuart
| ★★ Very Good | ||||
| 5.5 |
★★ Menhir’ai pas en Ukraine
| ★ Good | ||||
| 5.7 |
★ La Centrale
| ★ Good | ||||
| Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
| Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Felix Felicis
| 31m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Star Trek Sector | ||||||
| 5.6 |
★ Calabogie Sunset
| 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Western Cwm North Wall | ||||||
| 5.1 |
★ Route D
| 9m | ★ Good | |||
| 5.5 |
★★ Route C
| 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.4 |
★★ Route B
| 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| 5.5 |
★ Route A
| 10m | Average | |||
| Sat 26th Nov 2022 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Home Cliff | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★★ Piton Highway
| 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.3 |
★ Inside Corner
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 5th Nov 2022 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
| Mur de l'Université | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Trench Warfare
| 27m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Mon 5th Sep 2022 - Mont Ste-Marie | ||||||
| Rock Area | ||||||
| 5.8 5.8 G |
★★ Ivy League Dreams
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
|
"Warm up"
|
||||||
| 5.9 |
★★★ Skymaster
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
|
So far, my absolute favourite climb at the crag. Stemming, and chimneying, and lots of other 3D climbing, plus cracks and gear. And longer than many others, too!
|
||||||
| 5.5 |
★★ Tiger Moth
| ★★ Very Good | ||||
|
Stemming the whole way to keep the grade reasonable.
|
||||||
| Tue 23rd Nov 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
| 5.0 |
The Meadow
| 13m | Average | |||
|
I'm not sure it is even 5.0 -- it was a comfortable scramble in hiking boots and work gloves with a rope tied to my back. I'd call it easy 4th class.
|
||||||
| Sat 28th Aug 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
| Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
| 5.6 5.5 |
★ Radagast
- with
Simon McMillan
| 43m | ||||
|
Climbed before doing more cleaning - at this point climbed at about 5.6, but will probably be closer to 5.5 when fully cleaned. Did it in one pitch -- I don't recommend this choice due to rope-drag.
|
||||||
| Wed 28th Jul 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Mid-cliff Sector | ||||||
| 5.7 5.5 |
Steve As' Route
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
Gear is probably PG, but if you ever get too scared, you can borrow a bolt from "Moje Zlato". Also, the 5.5 grade is very old-school.
|
||||||
| Sat 12th Jun 2021 - Alice Roadside | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★★ True Drew
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Good climbing and good gear when not wet and dirty.
|
||||||
| Sun 30th May 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) The Far End | ||||||
| 5.0 |
★★ 3rd Easy Way Down
| 3m | Average | |||
| Sat 15th May 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
| Class 4 |
2nd Easy Way Down
| |||||
| Tue 27th Apr 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) North End | ||||||
| 5.6 5.6 PG |
★ One Over
| 13m | ★ Good | |||
|
Gear isn't the greatest.
|
||||||
| 5.1 |
★★ An Easy Stroll
| 13m | Average | |||
|
This line now feels a bit squeezed by Hump Day to its right -- "Another Stroll" is probably to be preferred. (They share the upper section.)
|
||||||
| Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
| Right Wing Gully Wall | ||||||
| 5.3 5.3 G |
★★ Apéritif
| 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Mon 5th Apr 2021 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Western Cwm North Wall | ||||||
| 5.1 |
★ Route D
| 9m | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 8th Nov 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Western Cwm Cave Wall | ||||||
| 5.6 |
★★ Neruda
| 8m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Sat 26th Sep 2020 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
| Class 4 |
2nd Easy Way Down
| |||||
| Sun 16th Aug 2020 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Western Cwm North Wall | ||||||
| 5.1 |
★ Route D
| 9m | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 26th Jul 2020 - Lac Sam | ||||||
| Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
| 5.9 5.8 |
★★ Felix Felicis
| 31m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
While the main crack is pretty wide, there are enough other gear placements that leading this doesn't need wide gear if you're a confident trad leader. (I lead it on a rack of Tricams from small white to big green, with doubles below the blues. It was reasonably protected with that gear selection.)
|
||||||
| Sun 11th Aug 2019 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
| Vertigineux | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Le Rocket
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
Climbing is fine, but gear is a bit tricky.
|
||||||
| Mon 22nd Apr 2019 - Shawangunks | ||||||
| The Trapps The Uberfall | ||||||
| 5.5 |
★★ Jackie (Jackie P1)
1
5.5
80 ft
| 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Fun lead even a bit damp (dew).
|
||||||
| Sun 17th Sep 2017 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
| Le fou | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★★ Cracker Joe
| 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 16th Sep 2017 - Alice Roadside | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Mixed Feelings
| 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
| Mon 4th Sep 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
| Murrin Park Bog Wall | ||||||
| 5.7 |
Focus
| 10m | Average | |||
|
Stiff for its grade.
Fell off start to ground, without weighting the gear... then climbed it clean. Does that make it an on-sight still? Who knows... claim as red-point. |
||||||
| Sat 22nd Jul 2017 - Adirondacks | ||||||
| Keene Beer Walls Lower Beer Wall Afternoon Delight Area | ||||||
| Class 4 |
Easy Way Up
| 8m | ||||
|
Scramble in hiking boots.
|
||||||
| Sat 22nd Jul 2017 - Adirondacks | ||||||
| Keene Beer Walls Lower Beer Wall Dihedrals Area | ||||||
| 5.6 5.6 PG |
★★★ Sword
| 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
Excellent on lead! Well-protected for PG.
|
||||||
| Sat 22nd Jul 2017 - Adirondacks | ||||||
| Keene Beer Walls Upper Beer Wall | ||||||
| 5.7 5.7 G |
★★ Seven Ounces
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
| 5.4 5.4 G |
★ 3.2
| 12m | ||||
| 5.5 5.5 G |
★★ Guinness
| 12m | ||||
| Sat 12th Nov 2016 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Western Cwm North Wall | ||||||
| 5.1 |
★ Route D
| 9m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 5th Nov 2016 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) The Far End | ||||||
| 5.9 |
Cream Puff
| 15m, 2 | Average | |||
|
Hadn't realized I was red-pointing it.
|
||||||
| Wed 12th Oct 2016 - Lac Gervais | ||||||
| Multipitch Area (Left side) | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★★ Crack du Plombier
| 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
Lead all three pitches.
P1 - Trad, seemed 5.6ish. P2. Trad, seemed about 5.6+, but apparently 5.7+? P3. Took a fall while clipping bolt 2. Re-climbed whole thing, of course. Call it a red-point? A flash? I dunno. Guess a red-point. |
||||||
| Mon 10th Oct 2016 - Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan | ||||||
| Secteur de l'Etang | ||||||
| 5.6 |
★★ Ma Premiere
| 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Went back and lead it, since the rope was pulled down after I TRed it. Need to get someone back to the anchors.
|
||||||
| Sat 1st Oct 2016 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
| Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Lower Ampitheater | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Ranger Crack
| 21m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Takes great gear.
|
||||||
| Sat 6th Aug 2016 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) The Far End | ||||||
| 5.10a |
★ Head Banger
| 14m, 4 | ||||
| Sat 16th Jul 2016 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) North End | ||||||
| 5.6 5.8 |
★★ Cedar Hollow
| 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
|
5.6 climbing with, maybe, one 5.8 (stressed position) gear placement.
Watch for a couple loose blocks on this one. |
||||||
| 5.3 |
Traps
| ★ Good | ||||
|
Dirty but fun. Used the new bolted anchors for "Slippery When Wet".
|
||||||
| Sat 18th Jun 2016 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
| Vertigineux | ||||||
| 5.9 5.8 |
★★ Le Beau-frère
| 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
I don't think the opening moves of this are anything like 5.8 -- solid 5.9.
|
||||||
| Sat 18th Jun 2016 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
| Antre du Dragon | ||||||
| 5.10a 5.10b |
★ La Saint-Georges
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Decided to try the lead. Got it clean, much to my surprise -- though I did use the 2nd crack at the top. It is the obvious way to climb this, though I'd say it is only 5.10a if climbed that way.
|
||||||
| Thu 9th Jun 2016 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Western Cwm North Wall | ||||||
| 5.1 |
★ Route D
| 9m | ★ Good | |||
| Mon 23rd May 2016 - Halton Region | ||||||
| Bottle Glass Stonewall Area | ||||||
| 5.3 |
★ 2-4 Launching Pad
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
|
Protects very well. Good beginner trad climb.
|
||||||
| Sat 30th Apr 2016 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) Star Trek Sector | ||||||
| 5.7 5.8 |
★ Phasers on Kill
| 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Harder than 5.7 by modern standards.
I hadn't lead this at all before, though TRed a few times. Was worried about thin gear at the start, and protecting the steep finish, but went ok. |
||||||
| Sun 8th Nov 2015 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Home Cliff | ||||||
| 5.6 |
★ Piton Arete
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
|
Lead the main route just 4 days previously, so decided to lead the Arete variant.
|
||||||
| Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Home Cliff | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★ Rupert Bear Goes Hiking
| 25m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Got the red-point. Good weather for climbing, and it went pretty smoothly. One sequence mess up -- but down-climbed, rested, and then climbed that bit correctly.
|
||||||
| Sun 18th Oct 2015 - Weir | ||||||
| Black and White/Club Sandwich | ||||||
| 5.7 |
Club Sandwich
1
lead by
David Gibbs
2
lead by
Phil
3
lead by
Kate
4
lead by
David Gibbs
| ★ Good | ||||
|
Lead the first & last pitch. I found both to be harder than 5.7 -- start felt 5.9 and opening moves on pitch 4 also felt noticeably hard. There may be an easier start to both pitches that doesn't protect as well, though.
|
||||||
| Sat 19th Sep 2015 - Adirondacks | ||||||
| Keene Chapel Pond Slab | ||||||
| 5.5 5.5 X |
★★ Empress
| 240m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Did the more direct variation on pitch 2, to avoid the overlap with Regular Route that was starting to pull a crowd. Lead the whole thing, including onsighting pitches 4-6 since last time up I climbed the Greensleeves variation.
|
||||||
| Sat 1st Aug 2015 - Whitehorse Ledge | ||||||
| The Slabs | ||||||
| 5.5 5.5 II |
★★ Beginner's Route
| 340m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Lead all the pitches. Went quite smoothly, some run-outs, as expected, but nothing that really bothered me. Did pitches 8-10 as a scramble/free solo.
|
||||||
| Sun 21st Jun 2015 - Lac Sam | ||||||
| Right Wing Pink Floyd Wall | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★★ Camalot
| 17m | ||||
|
4 tri-cams and 2 nuts. Cause the FA used 5 cams -- I had to be different. (Didn't rack any cams for the climb.)
|
||||||
| Sun 12th Apr 2015 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Home Cliff | ||||||
| 5.3 |
★ Broken Corner
| 9m | Average | |||
|
While it doesn't look from the ground like it will protect well, it actually does.
|
||||||
| Sun 2nd Nov 2014 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Home Cliff | ||||||
| 5.1 |
K5
| |||||
|
I actually started at the far right end of the ramp, near the start of Back to the Wall, up the ramp, across the ledge, and up. Nice little warm up.
Called it a red-point since while I've never climbed this climb per se, I've climbed most bits of it as part of other climbs. |
||||||
| Sun 28th Sep 2014 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Western Cwm Spindrift Wall | ||||||
| 5.3 |
★★ Arachnophobia
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
This goes surprisingly well on gear, though it may not look it. Placements are not always obvious, but can be found, and there are lots.
Only problem is actually finding it dry enough to lead. |
||||||