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Ascents in Frankenjura Nord as various tick types by Tobias Auth

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Showing all 85 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Date
8 Hier geblieben! - with KP, Biggi Sport 22m Frankenjura Nord Very Good Sun 24th Nov 2019
I found something onsightable! yay. Techy and vertical to slightly overhanging. Grade seemed fitting.

 
7+ Kaputtbohrer - with Katrin Bauer Sport 10m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Wed 5th Aug 2020
Nice, bouldery route. In the first, steep part there's not much time to find the right solution.

 
7 Götterbogen - with Michael Wk Sport 12m Frankenjura Nord Classic Mon 1st May 2017
Shirt off for the first time in Franken! Had no beta and found a good intuitive solution.

 
7 Überall und nirgendwo - with Michael R., Marco R. Sport 16m Frankenjura Nord Average Thu 25th May 2017
Delicate climbing to a boulder crux at mid height. Easy above.

 
7 Bushtrommel - with Michael R., Marco R. Sport 20m Frankenjura Nord Very Good Thu 25th May 2017
Crux for me was keeping calm. Every move very doable.

 
7 Donnerwetter - with Marco R., Michael R., Stefan G. Sport 25m, 5 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Fri 26th May 2017
Beautiful climbing to a somewhat awkward crux at the final bulge.

 
7 Surprise - with Marco R., Michael R., Stefan G. Sport 20m, 5 Frankenjura Nord Mega Classic Fri 26th May 2017
Consistent climbing to the crux just below the anchor. Fun to watch others on their onsight attempt. One of the best routes I know in Franken!

 
7 Waldrausch - with Marco R. Sport 22m, 5 Frankenjura Nord Classic Sat 27th May 2017
One of my Frankenjura favorites so far! Harder than its right neighbor but more beautiful. Typical Frankenjura bolting style - huge runout s but well placed bolts. Nice and relaxed slab to the bulge, then committing moves to the upper part which offers beautiful, logical and pumpy climbing. I used a 60cm draw below the bulge - you probably don't want to fall into any draw clipped to that bolt. Comitting move over the bulge, pumpy above. Airy bolting as well. Felt nowhere near 6b and a lot harder than other routes of the same grade in Franken.

 
7 Mandel Gedenkweg - with Leon K. Sport 18m Frankenjura Nord Very Good Sat 15th Jun 2019
Nice technical moves and surprisingly a good warm-up.

 
7 Für Dich - with Christoph Rauch Sport 28m Frankenjura Nord Classic Sat 23rd Nov 2019
Beautiful techy climbing but never desperate. Awesome!

 
7+ 7 Zwiespalt - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann Sport 15m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Sat 10th Apr 2021
Wow, adventurous and definitely a proud onsight for me! I expected more than 6b but this was quite hard! I was happy I could manage the bouldery start right away – one finger was a little numb after one pointy pocket. The juggy blocks above the boulder look rather chossy and the moves from the no hands ledge further up are tough because of polished footholds. The victory jug before the route eases off, is a small herb garden and I almost slipped off. Not possible to remove that with a regular brush. I respect the original grade but I think in a modern context, also considering the added difficulty of the now polished holds, this would be somewhere in the 6c to 6c+ range. After doing it only once, I think I can't upgrade it that much though. But maybe it has always been a little sandbagged.

 
7- Harter Hund - with Michael Wk Sport 18m, 5 Frankenjura Nord Classic Sun 30th Apr 2017
Just great climbing. Onsighting it as the first route of the day felt so good!

 
7- Schaumschläger - with Michael Wk Sport 37m, 12 Frankenjura Nord Classic Sun 30th Apr 2017
Great climb except for 5 metres of chossy looking rock. Great view and probably the longest singlepitch I did so far.

 
7- Moni und kein Ende - with Marco R. Sport 25m Frankenjura Nord Very Good Sat 27th May 2017
Searching for holds above the overhang got pretty exhausting because there's a lot to choose from.

 
7- Lineal - with Christoph Rauch Sport 30m Frankenjura Nord Very Good Sun 4th Nov 2018
Polished 5b into good 6a+/b. Nice view.

 
7- Moralapostel - with Jule, niklask Sport 20m Frankenjura Nord Very Good Fri 14th Jun 2019
Fun moves on big holds.

 
7- Weiße Wand - with KP Sport 25m Frankenjura Nord Good Sun 24th Nov 2019
Not so obvious. Onsighting felt 6b/+.

 
7- Kaum Zeit zum Fürchten - with Katrin Bauer Sport 9m, 6 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Wed 5th Aug 2020
Some longer moves on good holds. Fun!

 
6+ First Lady Sport 10m Frankenjura Nord Very Good Thu 25th May 2017
Consistent pocket endurance climbing. Good rock quality.

 
6+ Secret life Sport 20m, 7 Frankenjura Nord Good Fri 26th May 2017
6+ Ratte - with Christoph Rauch Sport 30m, 8 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Sat 23rd Nov 2019
A great climb! Felt 6a/+.

 
7- 6+ Schweizer Käse Sport 10m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Good Mon 3rd Aug 2020
Felt like falling off several times. Maybe because of humidity and the abundance of holds.

 
6+ Vertikale (R4) - with Katrin Bauer Sport 22m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Good Tue 4th Aug 2020
6+ Pfeilerweg. (R7) - with Katrin Bauer Sport 18m, 6 Frankenjura Nord Good Tue 4th Aug 2020
6+ 6+/7- Boxdorfer Weg - with Katrin Bauer Sport 15m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Good Fri 7th Aug 2020
The jugs at the top look quite loose. Demanding for the grade.

 
6 Direkte Talseite Sport 20m Frankenjura Nord Classic Sat 27th May 2017
Good climbing onto an exposed tower. Being on top is an experience on it's own.

 
6 Mon Marie - with Michael Wk, Chris Sport 15m, 7 Frankenjura Nord Good Fri 28th Apr 2017
My first route in Frankenjura!

 
6 Buchenleiter Sport 15m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Good Sat 29th Apr 2017
6 Krabbelstunde Sport 16m Frankenjura Nord Average Thu 25th May 2017
Slightly chossy corner. Appropriate name - Probably a small people climb.

 
6 Merklriss rechter Ausstieg (Merklriss Direkt) - with Michael Wk Sport 25m Frankenjura Nord Good Mon 1st May 2017
A slightly overhanging corner with big holds. A bit of scrambling onto a nice slab.

 
6 Ziech oder Fliech Sport 14m, 3 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Fri 26th May 2017
Cool route for the grade. With a small roof step.

 
6 Sad Lisa Sport 10m Frankenjura Nord Average Sat 27th May 2017
Polished and covered in chalk when I did this. Nice pockets but nothing special imo.

 
6 Alter Weg - with Leon K. Sport 22m Frankenjura Nord Good Fri 14th Jun 2019
One tricky part in the traverse – especially if you have long legs I guess.

 
6- Aprilscherz Sport 12m, 3 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Fri 26th May 2017
Consistent difficulty and nice moves.

 
6 6- Streck Dich! (R 11) - with Katrin Bauer Sport 13m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Good Tue 4th Aug 2020
6- Sonnenkönig - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann Sport 15m, 3 Frankenjura Nord Good Sat 10th Apr 2021
Nicely textured rock but very easy for the most part. The crux is okay - not very interesting as it's basically a balancy reach to a jug. Still a nice climb.

 
5+ Holger Danske - with Katrin Bauer Sport 16m, 3 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Fri 7th Aug 2020
Funky start. I'm sure I didn't take the easiest way. Nice pebble slab to the top of the tower.

 
5 36 Grad - with Michael R. Sport 12m Frankenjura Nord Don't Bother Thu 25th May 2017
Some loose rock.

 
5 Frankenplaisir - with Katrin Bauer Sport 9m, 5 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Wed 5th Aug 2020
Fun and easy climbing if you can find the sequence and the holds.

 
5 Cafe Caspary - with Katrin Bauer Sport 9m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Average Wed 5th Aug 2020
5- Immos delight - with Christoph Rauch Sport 25m, 3 Frankenjura Nord Good Sat 23rd Nov 2019
5b?

 
5- Spirale Sport 14m Frankenjura Nord Very Good Mon 3rd Aug 2020
5- 4+ Adams Rippe Sport 12m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Good Mon 3rd Aug 2020
4 Kurzer Riss Sport 10m, 1 Frankenjura Nord Good Fri 26th May 2017
5+ 4/4+ R5 - with Katrin Bauer Mixed trad 15m, 3 Frankenjura Nord Good Tue 4th Aug 2020
4 Ostkante - with Katrin Bauer Mixed trad 15m, 3 Frankenjura Nord Good Fri 7th Aug 2020
Nice view. The sling was removed. One possible sling placement looked worn out so maybe thats why. I put a sling of my own somewhere else.

 
8- Sysiphos - with Christoph Rauch, Simone Sport 25m, 8 Frankenjura Nord Classic Sat 3rd Nov 2018
Great! One of the best routes of the style I did so far. The rock feels a bit like sandstone here. The top part is a nice slab.

Some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. Draws in by myself.

 
7+ Mein Wort zum Sonntag - with Simone, Christoph Rauch Sport 17m, 6 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Thu 1st Nov 2018
7+ Peitsche - with Christoph Rauch, Simone Sport 25m Frankenjura Nord Classic Sat 3rd Nov 2018
Very pretty and super badass at the same time! Had to give a lot for the flash!

Draws in, some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. "No, that's the best hold there. Yes, just do the move"

Standing high above the bolt in the first laybacl section feels airy!

 
7 Für Göre - with Simone, Christoph Rauch Sport 17m, 3 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Thu 1st Nov 2018
7 Sauwetter - with Simone Sport 10m Frankenjura Nord Good Fri 2nd Nov 2018
Jugs!

 
7 Erste Affäre - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Sport 14m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Thu 8th Apr 2021
Fun, rather bouldery crux.

 
7- Verlobungsweg - with Michael Wk, Chris N. Sport 15m, 5 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Fri 28th Apr 2017
Flash in the dark with a headlamp after arriving late for our very first time in Franken! Got into a better flow than on my next day repeat.

 
7- Schöner Riss - with Michael Wk, Stef fel Sport 12m Frankenjura Nord Good Sun 30th Apr 2017
6+ in the Schwertner Guide. Felt hard for that grade and was quite polished - just like other routes in this sector.

 
7- Via Donatella - with Stef fel Sport 20m Frankenjura Nord Good Mon 1st May 2017
I didn't find the "sloper crux" everyone was talking about. So for me the crux were the first moves.

 
7- Ronald McDonald - with Marco R., Michael R. Sport 10m Frankenjura Nord Good Thu 25th May 2017
Some moves felt a bit awkward.

 
7- Zeitspiel - with Simone Sport 12m Frankenjura Nord Very Good Fri 2nd Nov 2018
A techy layback crack crux. Very nice.

 
7- Bremse auch für Schwaben - with Leon K., Liam, Jonas Sport 15m Frankenjura Nord Good Fri 14th Jun 2019
Got a little confused and almost fell.

 
7- Kaminpfeiler - with Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf Sport 15m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Fri 9th Apr 2021
 
6+ R9 Sport 15m Frankenjura Nord Good Fri 28th Apr 2017
Gear to first bolt by Chris.

 
6+ Schönes Fragezeichen (Unnamed 2) Sport 13m Frankenjura Nord Good Sun 28th May 2017
Pumpy on big polished holds. We met Sean Villanueva at the crag. #fanboy

 
6+ Aus die Maus - with Simone Sport 12m Frankenjura Nord Good Fri 2nd Nov 2018
6+ Schwarze Wand - with Christoph Rauch, Simone Sport 30m Frankenjura Nord Good Sat 3rd Nov 2018
Followed Christoph Rauch 's draws which turned out to be a combi of Schwarze Wand and the top bit of Schlemmerplatte.

 
6 Die Leiden des W. Sport 18m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Average Thu 25th May 2017
I wouldn't call the upper part climbing. The lower two thirds are good.

 
6 Frost-Fertinger-Weg Sport 20m Frankenjura Nord Good Sat 27th May 2017
Uncomfortable first moves, nice above. A bit polished but not too bad.

 
6 Green Dragon Sport 13m Frankenjura Nord Good Sun 28th May 2017
Probably a nice little route but I had nothing left in the tank so that it felt pretty unpleasant. Last climb for the trip.

 
6- This is the end - with Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf Sport 15m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Fri 9th Apr 2021
warm-up.

 
5 Softmover Sport 14m, 5 Frankenjura Nord Don't Bother Sun 30th Apr 2017
A polished and uninspiring climb.

 
4 Zwischenfall Sport 15m Frankenjura Nord Good Sat 29th Apr 2017
My first climb of this kind! Polished but still fun.

 
3 Steile Rinne Sport 11m, 3 Frankenjura Nord Good Mon 3rd Aug 2020
8 Bilderbuch - with KP, Biggi Sport 25m Frankenjura Nord Classic Sun 24th Nov 2019
Really, really good! Long moves on rather big pockets, shake out holds, traverse into a great layback section, high feet off a pinchable sidepull-edge and small but incut crimp (crux), then a few more techy and delicate moves to the top. 2nd go send! My first 7a in Frankenjura. #sportRP

 
8- A-Hörnchen - with Simone Sport 8m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Fri 2nd Nov 2018
Steep, mostly on big holds. Hard anchor clip. I fell trying to dyno to the last pocket which is the worst hold I had to use in the route. RP 2nd go clipping the anchor from an undercling, doing the move to the pocket statically and then "matching" the top pocket competition-style to have a legitimate ascent (8m route, 2m wingspan) #sportRP

 
8- Alte und Jungnasen - with Katrin Bauer Sport 15m Frankenjura Nord Very Good Mon 3rd Aug 2020
Hard to onsight for me - Choosing the right feet on a bulge isn't my strenght it seems. Felt appropriate for the grade 2nd go. The bolting is not that encouranging but the hard sections have bolts. #sportRP

 
8- Wilde 13 - with Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf Sport 14m, 5 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Fri 9th Apr 2021
Ticked 4 years after! Felt super tough in the cold yesterday. Fast and solid 1st go send today on someone else's QDs. #sportRP

 
8- 7+/8- Flottes Lottchen - with Simone, Christoph Rauch Sport 17m, 5 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Thu 1st Nov 2018
 
7+ Panische Zeiten - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Sport 14m, 5 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Thu 8th Apr 2021
By the skin of my teeth! I did one move into an undercling that I instantly regretted and almost fell of while pulling up into it. Also it felt like the pump made my hands even colder. Limit for 4°C today. #sportRP

 
7+ Ansbacher Weg - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann Sport 14m, 5 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Sat 10th Apr 2021
Nice one! Great gym like climbing, if you know where to go. 2nd go #sportRP

 
7 Waldrausch - with Leon K. Sport 22m, 5 Frankenjura Nord Classic Fri 14th Jun 2019
#repeat Still pumpy!

 
7 Erste Affäre - with Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf Sport 14m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Fri 9th Apr 2021
#repeat 2nd warm-up.

 
7- Schaumschläger - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann Sport 37m, 12 Frankenjura Nord Classic Mon 12th Apr 2021
warm-up #repeat

 
6+ R9 - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Sport 15m Frankenjura Nord Good Thu 8th Apr 2021
#repeat warm-up.

 
6 Mon Marie - with Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Sport 15m, 7 Frankenjura Nord Good Thu 8th Apr 2021
#repeat warm-up

 
5+ Kleiner Bär - with Christoph Rauch Sport 30m Frankenjura Nord Good Sat 23rd Nov 2019
Probably did a "combi" of this and R4a plus the bulge (wrong indication in topo) plus traversing to the anchor to the left.

 
6- Adolf Göttner Gedenkweg - with Christoph Rauch Mixed trad 40m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Good Sun 4th Nov 2018
Christoph Rauch showing me a different style of climbing. The route itself is a lot better than it looks from below! I can't imagine leading in this style yet but following was fun. Nice little adventure.

 
3 Südwand - with Christoph Rauch, Bovist Trad 32m Frankenjura Nord Very Good Sun 4th Nov 2018
Good easy climbing, nice view. A fun thing to do in a group of three.

 

Showing all 85 ascents.

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