Ascensions dans Frankenjura Nord comme croix de types variés par Tobias Auth

warm-up #repeat

Wow, adventurous and definitely a proud onsight for me! I expected more than 6b but this was quite hard! I was happy I could manage the bouldery start right away – one finger was a little numb after one pointy pocket. The juggy blocks above the boulder look rather chossy and the moves from the no hands ledge further up are tough because of polished footholds. The victory jug before the route eases off, is a small herb garden and I almost slipped off. Not possible to remove that with a regular brush. I respect the original grade but I think in a modern context, also considering the added difficulty of the now polished holds, this would be somewhere in the 6c to 6c+ range. After doing it only once, I think I can't upgrade it that much though. But maybe it has always been a little sandbagged.

Nicely textured rock but very easy for the most part. The crux is okay - not very interesting as it's basically a balancy reach to a jug. Still a nice climb.

Nice one! Great gym like climbing, if you know where to go. 2nd go #sportRP

Ticked 4 years after! Felt super tough in the cold yesterday. Fast and solid 1st go send today on someone else's QDs. #sportRP

#lastrouteoftheday tired

warm-up.

#repeat 2nd warm-up.

#repeat warm-up.

#repeat warm-up

Fun, rather bouldery crux.

By the skin of my teeth! I did one move into an undercling that I instantly regretted and almost fell of while pulling up into it. Also it felt like the pump made my hands even colder. Limit for 4°C today. #sportRP

Nice view. The sling was removed. One possible sling placement looked worn out so maybe thats why. I put a sling of my own somewhere else.

Funky start. I'm sure I didn't take the easiest way. Nice pebble slab to the top of the tower.

The jugs at the top look quite loose. Demanding for the grade.

Nice, bouldery route. In the first, steep part there's not much time to find the right solution.

Some longer moves on good holds. Fun!

Fun and easy climbing if you can find the sequence and the holds.

Hard to onsight for me - Choosing the right feet on a bulge isn't my strenght it seems. Felt appropriate for the grade 2nd go. The bolting is not that encouranging but the hard sections have bolts. #sportRP

Felt like falling off several times. Maybe because of humidity and the abundance of holds.

I found something onsightable! yay. Techy and vertical to slightly overhanging. Grade seemed fitting.

Really, really good! Long moves on rather big pockets, shake out holds, traverse into a great layback section, high feet off a pinchable sidepull-edge and small but incut crimp (crux), then a few more techy and delicate moves to the top. 2nd go send! My first 7a in Frankenjura. #sportRP

Not so obvious. Onsighting felt 6b/+.

Beautiful techy climbing but never desperate. Awesome!

A great climb! Felt 6a/+.

Probably did a "combi" of this and R4a plus the bulge (wrong indication in topo) plus traversing to the anchor to the left.

5b?

Nice technical moves and surprisingly a good warm-up.

#repeat Still pumpy!

Fun moves on big holds.

Got a little confused and almost fell.

One tricky part in the traverse – especially if you have long legs I guess.

Good easy climbing, nice view. A fun thing to do in a group of three.

Christoph Rauch showing me a different style of climbing. The route itself is a lot better than it looks from below! I can't imagine leading in this style yet but following was fun. Nice little adventure.

Polished 5b into good 6a+/b. Nice view.

Very pretty and super badass at the same time! Had to give a lot for the flash!

Draws in, some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. "No, that's the best hold there. Yes, just do the move"

Standing high above the bolt in the first laybacl section feels airy!

Great! One of the best routes of the style I did so far. The rock feels a bit like sandstone here. The top part is a nice slab.

Some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. Draws in by myself.

Followed Christoph Rauch 's draws which turned out to be a combi of Schwarze Wand and the top bit of Schlemmerplatte.

Steep, mostly on big holds. Hard anchor clip. I fell trying to dyno to the last pocket which is the worst hold I had to use in the route. RP 2nd go clipping the anchor from an undercling, doing the move to the pocket statically and then "matching" the top pocket competition-style to have a legitimate ascent (8m route, 2m wingspan) #sportRP

Jugs!

A techy layback crack crux. Very nice.

#sportRP

Probably a nice little route but I had nothing left in the tank so that it felt pretty unpleasant. Last climb for the trip.