Ascensions dans World comme croix de types variés par Tobias Auth

Short but nice slab. More friction than I anticipated.

Tufa feature crux and one reachy move.

Dusty slopers and some weird moves.

Gym like on big holds through the rooflet. Another balancy spot on flowstone. Much better than it looks from below!

Good warm up. 5a/b except two short parts.

Different but fun! A juggy crack, dihedral and vertical finish. Smooth holds but big footholds.

Felt like the crux of a 5b multipitch. Grade, description as well as topo image in the "versante sud" guide don't fit at all.

Much better than it looks. Like most routes here quite short.

The only completely dry route here today. Nice big moves. Really good for the grade. Easier for the tall.

Cool route! Quite challenging!

We did the rightmost route of the sector. Maybe it was a different route not listed here. 5a sounds about right.

Pleasant, very easy slab to a boulder. Felt quite easy for 6b. Nice view from the top.

Juggy bulge. Quite sharp!

Nice, technical, wandery. 5a/b? Didn't climb enough recently to judge.

2nd go of the day.

Send/ "onsight", 7 years after the first try.

Retroflash/ basically onsight. Awesome route still. Only just made it. Happy to still never having clipped that piton. Friction almost back to normal. Hoping for better conditions for next time.

2nd go resend after getting the right beta for the top crux. First crux probably significantly easier for me because I can reach the thumbcatchy hold statically from the sidepull hueco.

Top crux beta: [Far left gaston into sidepull-pocket, adjust feet for layback, clip, rest right hand, right crimp of double slot for right hand (don't match this hold later), left foot onto big foothold rail, left crimp further up, right foot high or pull-up to get foot even higher, lockoff again to reach into the slot on the ledge with right hand.]

resend

TR "send" 2nd go.

#repeat 2.5 stars. Probably 3 in good conditions and after brushing! Last route of the trip.

#repeat

#repeat Starts to deserve a "b" I think.

I was surprised this did not feel greasy or too smooth. Personal grade as tall person with long arms: 7a. Easier to start (pocket-jug, sidepull-jug, mega-jug) and could skip the mini two finger side pull and reach far left gaston instead. Really fun movement throughout. I was glad Danny picked this because it was not on my list.

Not sure what to think about this. Scary to lead. Runout.

2nd go. Cool route to project. Not easy to OS.

#repeat

Really good moves. Some holds and footholds seem "enhanced" (in parts) but climbs reeally well! A crux that goes a little left and right again. Small holds and small feet! Solid 6c for Kaly.

Quite techy and wandery. 6a+.

Great climb on tufa jugs and big slots. One short hard part towards the anchor. Otherwise very enjoyable 6a-ish.

After the approach pitch (a nice climb on its own), steep 3D jugs in a chimney (kind of) and some smaller holds to exit onto the headwall. More solid at the grade compared to Stoned woman and Heidrun. P1 6a P2 6c seems fair.

A jug fest with a techy crux and some hidden holds. Wonderful gym-like climb! Easy for the grade if you're comfortable in this terrain.

Both pitches as one. P1 not much more than an approach pitch. P2 is awesome! A broccoli-coated dihedral with a ~4m long tufa at the top (that you actually use!!). 45 to 50m low 6b+. If you're comfortable with laybacking on tufas! If P2 was a first pitch at sector Poets, it would be one of the most popular routes for sure.

Worst fixed anchor gear of the whole trip.

Awkward start. Better above.

Not sure about the grade (maybe a tad soft even for Kaly standards) but it climbs well! Pockets, crimps, good feet.

4c and a small foothold.

Climbs well. Solid 1.5 stars? Kaly 6b+/c?

Mostly good crimps and a little thin broccoli but good feet all the way. Tricky body positioning. The 7a grade is a joke. 6b+ or very generous 6c.

The crux is the best part about this. Solved it with a high left foot. Layback into long gaston – if that makes sense. Partly smooth brown rock – glad to OS. My OS beta felt like 7b but saw better beta by Basti. Comparing to other 7a+es on Kaly that grade seems fair.

The right one of the two lines above the name. Don't remember much. Dihedral crux and some small holds to an easier rooflet.

Great fun with several "incut" handjams and good moves. Everyone seemed to agree on 6c, maybe 6c+ in crag context.

Just a single hard move to a sharp hold. Otherwise around 6a.

Far easier than expected. Cool climbing though! Felt like 6b/+ to me. A reachy crux, so may be harder (around 6c/+?) for shorter climbers, like Mike pointed out. Never 7a/+.