Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 15th May 2004 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Grey and Green Walls The Green Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ The Navigator | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
lead p 2&4, the start of p2 is desperate!! not very sustained, so a good climb for aspiring gr21 leaders
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Sun 2nd May 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
19 19 R | ★★ Wall of the Afternoon Sun | 140m | ★ Good | |||
the 1st pitch is awesome, but the remainder gets progressively worse. Good slabby route for a rest day after cranking the steeps. I'd still recommend doing it just for p1.
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Sat 1st May 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | ||||||
22 22 R | ★★ Plimsoll Line | 15m | ★ Good | |||
so bloody close to doing this but I got pumped trying to back up the manky rusty pins. Lowered down from just above the crux yo-yo style & got it 2nd shot easily.
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24 | ★★★ Orestes | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
just 1 rest - got pumped on the traverse at the top, still have to get fitter. Really bloody nice sustained finger locks & stemming, but shame about the amount of chalk.
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Sat 1st May 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Cassandra Area | ||||||
18 | ★ Cassandra | 40m, 5 | Average | |||
nice moves but its way too polished
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Fri 30th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Cassandra Area | ||||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
just 1 rest just before the top (I've got to get fitter). Cam took a HUGE whipper on lead)
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Thu 29th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
21 | ★ Capilano | 25m | ★ Good | |||
I had to have a quick rest on this pumpy & committing beast. The line & position look super cool, but the rock up high doesn't inspire confidence.
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Sun 25th Apr 2004 - Flat Rock | ||||||
Epsilon Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Crossfire | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
very enjoyable climb (except the heckling from the 4yr old kid on the tourist track....)
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Sun 25th Apr 2004 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
21 | ★★ Sirocco Pitch 1 | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
my 1st taste of the fabled Taipan.... bunched up & awkward on the crux for me.... I missed the crux throw & caught myself twice!
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Wed 14th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Trojan | 86m, 2 | Average | |||
only did the short p2 (10m 20/21)
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Wed 14th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | ||||||
20 20 R | ★★ Dazed and Confused | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
very enjoyable problem solving exercise (there moves are all there once you work them out!)
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Mon 12th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | ||||||
16 17 | ★★ The Second Affinity (Affinity) | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
tough crux for the grade but very nice climbing
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Mon 12th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
a pumpy struggle but I got there in the end.
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Sun 11th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | ||||||
20 | ★★ Down and Out | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
leaves a great big grin on your face after doing this - fun fun fun
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Sun 11th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Leasehold Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Friends in High Places | 35m | ★ Good | |||
nice but a bit dirty (needs more traffic)
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Sun 11th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Intrepid Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Opening | 20m | ★ Good | |||
fiddly gear down low. fun moves up higher
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Sat 10th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Vandal Area | ||||||
17 | Swallows and Amazons | 65m | ★ Good | |||
link p1 of this with p3 of Vandal for a great gr17 outing
|
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Fri 9th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Vandal Area | ||||||
18 17 | ★★ Vandal | 45m | ★ Good | |||
would be better if more sustained.
|
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17 18 | ★★ Sweet Surrender | 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
shady p1 - firts 6-7m is harder than 17
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Thu 8th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ I Dunno | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
cool climb, pumpy traverse & reachy crux
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18 | ★★ Daily Planet | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
really bloody nice climb
|
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21 20 | ★★ Pilot Error | 12m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
fun but overrated one move wonder (repeats: lead 30.4.04)
|
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Thu 8th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Lex Luthor | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
1st pitch is too short, 2nd pitch is classic!!
|
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Wed 7th Apr 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
super cool & classy but very chalked. Don't try this on a hot sweaty day!!
|
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Sun 14th Mar 2004 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Hump Area Ariel Buttress | ||||||
15 | ★ Son Of Ariel | 22m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
more slabbling, but not recommended for a sketchy gr15 leader
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Sun 14th Mar 2004 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Cathedral | ||||||
17 | ★ Bloodnok | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
super bomber gear, great line, the only downside is sharp rock
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Sat 13th Mar 2004 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread (Where Angels Fear to Tread Direct Finish) | 230m | ★★★ Classic | |||
jamB jamB jamB.... fun fun fun. Where else in Aust can you climb 6-7 long pitches (with only 1 'bad' pitch)??
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Sun 7th Mar 2004 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | ||||||
16 | ★★ Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blasé | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 7th Mar 2004 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | ||||||
17 | ★★ Wicked Solitaire | 40m | Average | |||
1st pitch is very dirty but ok otherwise - 2nd pitch is classic though!!
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Sun 7th Mar 2004 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Home James | 30m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
amazing dyke features & healthy run-outs with committing moves (more like 19?)
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Sat 6th Mar 2004 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Hump Area Ariel Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Prospero's Cell | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
mostly straight-forward but a sting in the tail
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Sat 6th Mar 2004 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
Lake Catani Chalwell Galleries | ||||||
19 | ★★ Epic | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
super good, well protected
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Sat 6th Mar 2004 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Hump Area Ariel Buttress | ||||||
20 21 | ★ Daughter Of The Devil | 15m | ★ Good | |||
totally hold-less & desparate - more like 22 (even for a Buffalo 20!). crystals were crumbling under my feet
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Sun 22nd Feb 2004 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Red Rock Area Sherpa Rocks | ||||||
22 | ★ Heaven is a Truck | 20m, 3 | Average | |||
very contrived (compared to the usual Gramps classics!!)
|
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23 | ★★ Best of Hillwood | 13m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
reachy crux!!
|
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21 | ★★ Revenue Road | 17m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
delicate climbing on sometimes slopey holds, very nic!!
|
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17 | ★ Woodys | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
super good rock, great fun
|
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Sat 21st Feb 2004 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Marianas Trench | ||||||
19 | ★★ Used Platypus Condom | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
huffed & puffed, climbed up & down, & eventually did it
|
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Sun 8th Feb 2004 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - South Side Beowulf Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Beowulf | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
cleaner than it looks - super good
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15 | ★ What Ethics? | 10m, 1 | Average | |||
bit short, bit lichenous
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Sat 7th Feb 2004 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Cathedral | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Edge Of Pleasure | 80m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
the grooves of doom.... scary 1st pitch, mega classic 2nd pitch
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21 20 | ★★★ Sultan | 65m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
super classy line, more like 20 though?
|
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Sat 30th Aug 2003 - Briggs Bluff Area | ||||||
Centurion Walls Lower Centurion Walls | ||||||
18 | Progressive Happy House | 15m | ★ Good | |||
nice warm up
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Sun 17th Aug 2003 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Eureka Area The Lost World | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Roraima (Un-named bulging crack) | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
called "Roriama" (HB & Noddy route)
|
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21 | ★★ Un-named Orange Face Right Side | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
called "Humboldt" (HB & Noddy's route)
|
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Sun 27th Jul 2003 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
20 | ★★ Taste of Honey Direct Start | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
under-rated line, a must do!
|
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18 | ★★ Golden Echo | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
(repeats: 2nd 29.4.04)
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18 | ★★ Hurts | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 13th Jul 2003 - Werribee Gorge | ||||||
Falcons Lookout Main Boardwalk | ||||||
17 | ★ Conscientious Pontius | 13m | Average | |||
greasy
|
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16 | ★ Androcles | 27m | Crap | |||
why is this route popular?
|
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17 | ★ Pet of Demetrius | 20m, 2 | Crap | |||
stars?? I think not...
|
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Sun 22nd Jun 2003 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Halfway House | ||||||
22 | FA ★ Emu-less | 12m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
tricky but not sustained
|
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17 | The Court Jester (The Court Jester p2) | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 9th Jun 2003 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Carborundum Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Airtime Over Pumicestone | 250m, 24 | ★★ Very Good | |||
lead p 1& 2, watch the loose rock!
|
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Sat 7th Jun 2003 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Sharks fin | ||||||
23 | ★★ Shark's Fin | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
steep & crimpy
|
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Sat 7th Jun 2003 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Mythologica | ||||||
19 | ★★ Mythologica | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 11th May 2003 - Mt Maroon | ||||||
Viewpoint Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Ghostly Hand DS | 20m | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★★ Ghostly Hand | 15m | ★ Good | |||
fun
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Sun 4th May 2003 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Clemency Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency | 190m | ★★ Very Good | |||
scary old classic - typical Tibro
|
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Sun 4th May 2003 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Halfway House | ||||||
18 | ★ The Sword In The Stone | 25m | Average | |||
vegetated
|
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Sun 20th Apr 2003 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Fun Parlour | ||||||
18 | ★ Where's My Burrito | 8m, 1 | Average | |||
sandy in spots
|
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Sat 19th Apr 2003 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Warped Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Bush Christening ((Unknown 1)) | 20m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 19th Apr 2003 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Whipping wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Dead Heart | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
bets route at Wonderlands at the grade
|
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Sat 19th Apr 2003 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Silk 'n' Steel Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Fat Rich Constables | 16m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
not very sustained
|
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Fri 18th Apr 2003 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Wonderland Grab the Gristle Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Bitter Fingers | 10m | Average | |||
too short
|
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19 | ★ Don't Chew The Fat | 10m, 2 | Average | |||
too short
|
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Sat 12th Apr 2003 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
17 | ★ If | 30m | ★ Good | |||
tricky gear, not recommended for a gr17 leader
|
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Sat 22nd Mar 2003 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
16 17 | ★★ Blood, Sweat and Tears | 40m | Average | |||
tight squeeze spoils otherwise good route
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Sun 1st Dec 2002 - Sebastapol Bluffs | ||||||
Kingfisher Area | ||||||
16 | ★★ Conservation Crack | 20m | Average | |||
not so much fun in the rain
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Sun 5th Aug 2001 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sorcerer's Apprentice | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
the 'corn-flake' hold was my saviour!!
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Sun 29th Jul 2001 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 19 | ★★★ Thor | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
super good, keeps coming up the top (repats: lead 12.4.03)
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Sat 21st Jul 2001 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★ Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla | 20m | Average | |||
the DS is probably the best way to do this
|
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Sat 21st Jul 2001 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles | 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
nice finger locks (repeats: lead 29.7.01; 2nd 26.4.03)
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Sat 7th Jul 2001 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
17 | ★★ Micron | 20m | Average | |||
dirty (especially at the top)
|
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Sat 7th Jul 2001 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★ Forked Tongue | 15m | Average | |||
16 | ★ Moonlighter | 15m | Average | |||
a break from the pure jamBing of Frog
|
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Sat 23rd Jun 2001 - Mt Maroon | ||||||
Viewpoint Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Mexicana | 60m | ★ Good | |||
21 23 | ★★ Able | 20m | ★ Good | |||
bit dirty at the top, super good thin climbing otherwise
|
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Sun 17th Jun 2001 - Mt Maroon | ||||||
Viewpoint Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Valkyrie | 33m | ★★★ Classic | |||
so very nice! (repeats: lead 11.5.03)
|
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Sat 2nd Jun 2001 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
21 22 | ★★★ Black Light | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 26th May 2001 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Fluid / Epic Link Up (Fluid-Epic Connection) | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I don't know why Scott Camps left this out of his guide
|
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Sat 26th May 2001 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Rickety Kate | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 19th May 2001 - Brooyar | ||||||
Green Lane | ||||||
21 | ★★ Uzis On Speed | 15m, 3 | Crap | |||
2 stars?? I think not....
|
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Sat 19th May 2001 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
19 | ★★ Looking For The Sun | 40m, 4 | Average | |||
the best climb amongst a pile of mank
|
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17 | ★ The Girl Who Lives On Heaven Hill | 8m | Crap | |||
Sat 12th May 2001 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
23 | ★★ Nosy Business | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
slipped near the start, cool route though
|
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17 | ★★★ Smoked Banana | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
its clean & classic Froig climbing (complete with an off-width yuk bit)
|
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Sun 1st Apr 2001 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Hope Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Yuppie | 18m, 3 | Average | |||
Sun 1st Apr 2001 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★ Savage Amusement | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
a crux for short people
|
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Sun 1st Apr 2001 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
17 | ★ The Joker | 12m | Average | |||
short & dirty. this crag would be much cleaner & nicer with traffic
|
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Sun 1st Apr 2001 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Illusion Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★ Going Steady | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
nice climbing, committing crux!!
|
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17 | ★★ Layabout | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 1st Apr 2001 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
20 | ★★ Sucking Faces | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
nice moves. sling a tourist for the belay
|
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Sat 31st Mar 2001 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Upper Cliffs The Upper Main Cliff | ||||||
17 | ★ Previous Commitment | 42m | Average | |||
Sun 18th Mar 2001 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★ Noose | 22m | ★ Good | |||
worth doing
|
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Sat 2nd Sep 2000 - Mt Maroon | ||||||
Viewpoint Buttress | ||||||
20 21 | ★★ Masters Of War | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I think Darrin Carter put this up
|
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20 | ★★★ Going Up | 36m | ★★ Very Good | |||
very nice, bit friable but still good
|
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18 | ★★ Sticks And Stones | 33m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
awesome runout line (repeats: lead 17.6.01; 2nd 23.6.01; lead 1.6.03)
|
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21 | ★ Fad's, Fashions And Climbing Politics | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
(repeats: lead 17.6.01; 2nd 11.5.03)
|
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Thu 24th Aug 2000 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★ Half-dazed and Patched Pants | 18m | ★ Good | |||
barn-door crux, the rest is ok (repeas: 18.3.01)
|