Ascents as various tick types by Paul Kinnane

Absolutely stunning route. Lots of techie sections linked together, where you can fall at any point, with a stopper move final dyno to the glory jug. Whilst a few people have ticked this route pretty quickly, I ended up spending about 15-20 sessions on it, so it was at my limit, so it felt pretty good to clip the chains today.

OK climb, although potentially a little contrived as the Ethics Police fined me for going into the corner.

Great roof climbing on jugs!

Crimpy crux

Very very pumpy!

Very pumpy!

This route kicked my butt until I used all the unticked holds, and it all worked nicely.

A couple of good moves in the second half of this route.

Amazing climb with a puzzling crux that needs solving. 3rd go. Felt hard for the grade, but it's my anti-style.

Surprisingly good route. Full value at the grade.

Had a real battle on this one, Fantastic route.

Solid move at the crux

Super classy route. Second shot.

Great route that doesn't really let-up at any point

Easy climbing with a hard-to-read crux.

Warm-up. First time at the Guardhouse. Really nice spot. From the carpark, walk 9mins towards Sentinel Cave, then turn left at the cairn and follow cairns to the cliff. Total walk-in time was 30 mins.

Short, powerful and reachy. The crux move (over the lip) is great.

Short and powerful with some awkward moves.

Really very nice climbing, although there are some tricky moves above bolts that wouldn't be a pleasant fall, so it's less a "Sport" where you clip and go, and more a "Trad" route that's been bolted.

Not an obvious line. Go up 2 or 3 bolts, then traverse left and up, then up the arete heading rightwards and clip a bolt way out right - I think that's the actual line. Perhaps this was bolted to go straight up the slab but it didn't go? The tricky move at the end is great. The 23 extension looks really good, and is on the ticklist for the next trip.

Very wet, but some really pretty good moves, and surprisingly sustained. I think over summer this will get a lot of traffic, and is a great addition to the crag.

Sustained crimping

Seriously pumpy climbing. In fact I wouldn't even call the second half of the route 'climbing'. It's more like desperately throwing for holds hoping you hit the right one.

Putting the draws on Goldmine.

Great moves. Second go.

Super happy to clip the chains on this route after being very close for a few weeks. Mega-endurance route, which is definitely my style, with lots of solid climbing where you can fall off anywhere, but no ridiculously hard moves.

Super happy to tick this after 10+ sessions. The sequence from the kneebar rest to the Marlboro rest is amazing - absolutely desperate, on-the-limit climbing where you can fall on any move.

Powerful moves on pockets. Easy for 25 (but probably too hard for 24). Ticked first go after inspecting the moves lowering off the warm-up route.

Pumpy endurance route with 2 tricky sections.

Great moves moving across the wall. A lot of fun.

A good reminder that just because the guidebook says something is well bolted, it doesn't mean it is well bolted! The 3rd bolt is going to be a challenge for some people.

Repeat

Messy ascent

Originally ticked this route 20 years ago and thought the start was pretty hard back then. The start is still hard!

Mega-pumper route, that doesn't let up until the final Marlboro mantle. Felt similar in difficulty to Emphysema, but I suspect once the strong local crew work out better beta if will be easier. So took a bet each way with the 27/28 grade.

Blew the on-sight due to wasp attack.

Yikes! This would be an intimidating lead for someone new to climbing!

Warm-up in the rain

After a few falls working out the hard move at the first bolt, finally got through and clipped the chains. Pretty scrappy on the top moves.

Solid crux for the grade

Steap juggy stuff into a cool vertical face at the top.