Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mon 31st Dec 2012 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Pindari | ||||||
20 | ★★★ This Sporting Life - with Sam | 43m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First pitch, grade 27, rediculous. Second pitch, classic jugging and spot on for 20.
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Sun 30th Dec 2012 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Adults Only Cave | ||||||
28 | ★★★ The Way of All Flesh | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Have done the start years ago but not today - !
Exhausting work today.
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Sun 30th Dec 2012 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Jean Genie Area | ||||||
23 | ★ Scheme of Things | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Another compact little overhang.
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23 | ★★ Major Tom | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I thought this was quite good. Probably a good first 23.
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Sat 29th Dec 2012 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall | ||||||
25 | ★ Ernest in Africa - with Neil | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I suspect there's a few people who've had to settle for the second shot on this puppy. Sigh [2]
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25 | ★ Ernest in Africa - with Neil | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Well, I was hoping to onsight this. It ended up being a nonsight.
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Sat 29th Dec 2012 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Sail Away Wall | ||||||
26 | ★ Fumble Factor - with Neil | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Only a little bit of beta on the one move wonder crux. Thanks Neil and Sticky Dale.
|
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26 | ★★★ Sail Away - with Neil | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wow! Super happy to have done this. I didn't really figure out any fingerlock beta. That's weird man. I just flipped the left hold to an undercling pinch and threw. Almost fell off the top as well. [2]
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26 | ★★★ Sail Away - with Neil | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
To crux on the onsight attempt, but took AGES to figure out the crux, and the upper wall was super techy.
|
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Fri 28th Dec 2012 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area New York West (Left) Side | ||||||
17 | ★ Fox Force 5 | 12m | Average | |||
Ye olde school arete with carrots. A bit weird, but okay. Sam did not enjoy
|
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Fri 28th Dec 2012 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area New York East (Right) Side | ||||||
22 | ★★ Moan Groan Dial Tone | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice water scoop.
|
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19 | ★ Silence of the Cams | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This had some proper climbing moves for a slab. Well worth doing for the grade.
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23 | ★ Mr Stagger Lee | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard. Jumping and jiving.
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Thu 27th Dec 2012 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zap Crag Upper Zap | ||||||
28 | ★★ Zapt - with sam | 20m, 10 | ||||
Went for a lash. All good, but that top gluey crux through the rooflet was haaard!
|
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22 | ★★ Jug Buzz - with sam | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun came out. Can see why it's popular.
|
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Thu 27th Dec 2012 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zap Crag Lower Zap | ||||||
18 | ★ Mr McGlue - with sam | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Felt a bit traddish. Lots of ledge mantling. Good though.
|
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20 | ★ Resistor - with sam | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Nice jugging, then a very hard crux, doubtful that it's grade 20. More like 21 or 22 crux.
|
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25 | ★★★ High Tension - with sam | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very nice, and the pick of the wall. Finishes in a brilliant position at the very highest point.
|
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Sat 15th Dec 2012 - Mt Ninderry | ||||||
Caves Area | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Birds Of Prey - with Duncan | 35m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The middle laybacking section is really nice on solid orange rock. Then a fat rest, then the top face and arete which provides a few nice pulls. Get down easily on a 70m cord.
|
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18 17 | ★ Three Stroke Scree Slope - with Duncan | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
As part of Birds of Prey. Rambly sharp jugs.
|
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Sat 15th Dec 2012 - Mt Ninderry | ||||||
Ocean Vista Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Yoshimi Battles - with Duncan | 25m | ★ Good | |||
The jug for clipping the anchor is great! Cool position.
|
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Sat 15th Dec 2012 - Mt Ninderry | ||||||
Caves Area | ||||||
23 | ★★ Vertigo - with Duncan | 30m | ★ Good | |||
A long adventurous ramble with a couple of tricky moves to finish in an exposed position.
|
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Sat 15th Dec 2012 - Mt Ninderry | ||||||
Ocean Vista Area | ||||||
26 | ★★ Sweep The Leg - with Duncan | 10m, 6 | ||||
1 - Super technical and covered in lichen. Lots of brushing and working stuff out.
|
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26 | ★★ Sweep The Leg - with Duncan | 10m, 6 | ||||
2 - fell at the top after the last bolt.
|
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26 | ★★ Sweep The Leg - with Duncan | 10m, 6 | ||||
Just got there on the 3rd burn - skin of teeth. Very technical and tricky to work out. At lot in it for such a short route. [3]
|
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Wed 12th Dec 2012 - Mt Ninderry | ||||||
Caves Area | ||||||
15 | ★ Tim Burton Tunnel | 13m | ||||
To access Bird of Prey.
|
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Sat 8th Dec 2012 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Drums Not Guns - with Jj | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Probably Frey's best route at Coolum. Second ascent. [2]
|
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20 | ★ Friends in High Places - with Jj | 12m, 6 | ||||
Desperate backpack ascent
|
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25 | ★ Caught by the Fuzz | 10m, 3 | ||||
End of day nemesis this is becoming. Had a bunch of shots. Thankfully JJ was there to get my gear back
|
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25 | ★★ Ultraviolet - with Jj | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
All good. Lots of chalk, it's getting love.
|
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27 | ★★★ Drums Not Guns - with Jj | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Working.
|
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Sat 1st Dec 2012 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★ Three Men and A Ladder | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Botched the OS.
|
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26 | ★★ Three Men and A Ladder | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Saved the onsight of this for years. Failed on last move. Bleh. Second go. [2]
|
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25 | ★ Caught by the Fuzz | 10m, 3 | ||||
Fell at second bolt on OS attempt, totally gassed. High grav day.
|
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25 | ★★ Hung Like A Fruit Bat | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 24th Nov 2012 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
29 | ★★ Prime Evil - with JJ | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Another route trying to muscle in on Evil's popularity. Interesting, but not sustained. [4]
|
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25 | ★★ Hung Like A Fruit Bat - with Sam | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Gear off.
|
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29 | ★★ Prime Evil - with JJ | 25m | ★ Good | |||
WD-40 lap, fixing the seized biners. Might make it a grade easier
|
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25 | ★★ Hung Like A Fruit Bat - with Sam | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Beta gathering for Sam
|
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Sun 18th Nov 2012 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
29 | ★★ Prime Evil - with JJ | 25m | ||||
All moves done, and some nice links this try. Skin not in Coolum condition, yet.
|
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24 | ★★ Has It Got a Chevy Motor? - with Duncan | 12m, 7 | ||||
It's been a while.
|
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29 | ★★ Prime Evil - with Jimmy | 25m | ||||
All moves except the weird slab one up high.
|
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Tue 13th Nov 2012 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
28 | FA ★★★ Massive Attack - with JJ | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Freed this old project of Gareth & Adam's (thanks guys!) A few bits of trad to get to the roof, drop rope, then use second rope to climb the rest (all bolts). We removed all sharp edges so it's ready to go. Climbing might be ~27, but it's pretty adventurous and I doubt it'll get repeated anytime soon - unfortunately! [4]
|
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Sun 11th Nov 2012 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Tangled Up In Blue (Tangled Up In Blue p1) - with JJ | 50m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sport climbing doesn't get much more adventurous than this. Solo 15m on broken rock to first bolt above the void. Fearfully edge out into space to mercifully clip a second bolt and feel like you might not die if you fall. Romp up sharp jug-horns, hoping beyond hope your rope doesn't get sliced as it weaves around them. Get your breath back by hanging upside down beneath the crux. Hump and pinch for all you're worth to breach the crux, clip the anchor; now consider how you'll clean the thing.
|
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Sun 4th Nov 2012 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Carborundum Wall | ||||||
21 | Every Day I Start To Ooze - with JJ | 18m, 4 | Average | |||
Slime and filth.
|
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23 | Liquid Skin - with JJ | 18m, 5 | Average | |||
Start was a vomitorium. You're lucky if you get to climb this dry I think. Overall, a bit weird.
|
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Sun 28th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Drive-By Crag | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Extra Backup - with Sam | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Almost off this crimpy thing. No clipping hold for one bolt. Pouring rain.
|
||||||
5.11c | ★★ Big Sinkin' Breakdown - with Sam | 26m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Worst bolts I saw in the Red. Needs urgent rebolt before someone dies. Apart from the bolts, it's great, even in the rain.
|
||||||
5.11b | ★★ Yada Yada Yada - with Sam | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
Weird arete. Belayed Dunc on this earlier in the trip.
|
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Fri 26th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Lower Gorge Region Long Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Rock Wars - with Sam | 24m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Super fingercrack flake which has been worn smooth by 20+ years of constant traffic. So glorious. Van Halen climbed this.
|
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5.12a | ★★★ The Gift - with Sam | 21m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Technical and unique wall route for the RRG.
|
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5.11b | ★★★ B3 - with Sam | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hardest I worked all day. Pretty epic trad route given 5 stars. Only 1 usable cam for the first 15m. Climbing high twenties sport routes is surely the key to being able to JUST get up something like this
|
||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Autumn - with Sam | 24m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very cool handcrack flake, but I only had one handcrack-sized cam. Channel the inner Honnold.
|
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Wed 24th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Chocolate Factory Wobbler Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★ One Side Makes You Taller - with Sam | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Good climb, ruined by a shithouse anchor placement.
|
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Wed 24th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Chocolate Factory Malice Area | ||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Malice - with Sam and Adam Ondra | 18m | ||||
Top of the steepness on the OS.
|
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5.12c | ★★★ Malice - with Sam and Adam Ondra | 18m | ||||
Slimed off the top crimps in the sun. I must now retire.
|
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Wed 24th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Chocolate Factory Cat's Demise | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Toxicondendron - with Sam | Average | ||||
Gritstone arete getting off the ground, then very, very small crimps up high and a very awkward anchor clip.
|
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Tue 23rd Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow Purgatory | ||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Paradise Lost - with Sam | |||||
In no universe would this be 13a. It's solid 13b/8a at least. Harder than the 13b's and c's I've been on here. Looks easy from the ground. You have to actually pull hard. Very un-RRG.
|
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5.11b | ★★ Believer - with Sam | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sam killed this! So good. It felt like 23 to me. 20 degrees sustained overhung and split finger pockets.
|
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5.12a | ★★ Gluttony - with Sam | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 23rd Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow The Gallery | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Johnny B. Good - with Sam | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sam flashed this today - super effort. Steepo top section.
|
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Sun 21st Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley The Sanctuary | ||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Prometheus Unbound | 29m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did pretty good on the OS attempt. If I had of held the weird pocket crux I probably would have held on to the end.
|
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5.13a | ★★★ Prometheus Unbound | 29m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
What is a collection of ladybugs called? Because that's what was attacking me at the crux. Attacking I tell you. Be prepared for a PROMETHEUS of ladybugs! [2]
|
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5.12d | ★★★ Jesus Wept - with Sam | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Oh man. Why has thou forsaken me? I fell on the last hard move, which is a dynamic accuracy stab into a very tight two-finger pocket. I just missed the bloody thing!
|
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5.12d | ★★★ Jesus Wept - with Sam | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tired. Just got there. [2]
|
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Sun 21st Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley Johnny's Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Bethel - with Sam | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice face climbing on plates. Obviously well loved.
|
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5.11a | ★ Burning Bush - with Sam | Don't Bother | ||||
Ramble to an inconsistent crux. Not good.
|
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Fri 19th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Motherlode | ||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Hoofmaker - with Sam | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did it really nicely. Couple of kneebars - all good in the hoof. [2]
|
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5.11d | ★★ Stella - with Sam | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up? Jeebus!
|
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5.12c | ★★★ Stain - with Sam | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
End of day. Fell on the dynamic throw to the final hold. Touch but didn't latch it. Sigh. Another botched OS.
|
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5.13b | ★★★ Flour Power - with Sam | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
It was a goal for the trip to go up one of the central routes in the Madness Cave. I actually did pretty good on the onsight, made it to the 3/4 point, halfway up the 45 degree overhung upper headwall. These are BEAST routes
|
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5.13a | ★★★ Hoofmaker - with Sam | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Bolt to bolt, still warming up.
|
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Wed 17th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow The Gallery | ||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Zen and the Art of Masturbation | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One of my biggest onsight fights of the trip on this thin, techo, sustained wall climb. Unfortunately didn't come away with it - fell up high.
|
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5.12c | ★★★ Mosaic | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thumper pocket pumper.
|
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Wed 17th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow Volunteer Wall | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Same Way - with Tracy and Sam | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice long orange wall and plates.
|
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5.10b | ★ Family Tradition - with Tracy | ★ Good | ||||
Arete.
|
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Tue 16th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow Gold Coast | ||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Golden Boy | 20m | ||||
Arms died before the crux.
|
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5.13b | ★★★ Golden Boy | 20m | ||||
Just didn't happen today - a shame, but you can't win them all.
|
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Tue 16th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow Solar Collector | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Supafly - with Tracy and Sam | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is pretty awesome eh? I bet lots of people fall on the final moves in true RRG fashion. It's a heartbreaker up there.
|
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5.12a 5.11d | ★★ Buddha Hole - with Tracy and Sam | 23m, 8 | Average | |||
I didn't particularly like this.
|
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Tue 16th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow Crossroads | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Severn Bore - with Tracy and Sam | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Desperate slab to reachy lip encounter.
|
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5.10b | ★★ A1A - with Tracy and Sam | 15m, 5 | ||||
I earned a foot massage for successfully doing this slab in sneakers. Worth it.
|
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Sun 14th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Drive-By Crag | ||||||
5.13c | ★★★ Kaleidoscope | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Monique's route! Bolt to bolt working it out.
|
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5.13c | ★★★ Kaleidoscope | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Got up to the business but was smoked! Some veeeery hard clips. Didn't bother Jon Cardwell who casually onsighted it
|
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5.11c | ★★ Spirit Fingers | 21m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky start off the ledge, then lurvely plate climbing.
|
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5.11a | ★★★ Whipstocking | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Now THIS one! This one was something else.
|
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5.11d | ★★ Head and Shoulders - with Sam | 21m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
The attractive overhanging flake. Kneebars. Tried and failed on the extension.
|
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5.12b | Knees and Toes - with Sam | 27m, 11 | Average | |||
Cobwebs - never a good sign! Should be at least 5.12c.
|
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5.10b | ★ Make a Wish - with Sam | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Kinda hard. Good though!
|
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5.10b | ★ Slick and the 9mm (Slim and the 9mm) - with Sam | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Actually really interesting.
|
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Sat 13th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow Shady Grove | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Far From God - with Sam | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
End of day smoked!
|
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5.13a | ★★★ Taste The Rainbow - with Sam | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Heartbreaker. I dicked it up and fell at bolt 2. Lowered off. Rested. Then went back up all the way to the top. Super adventurous 30m long, 14 clips, 10m overhung. [2]
|
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Sat 13th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow The Playground | ||||||
5.11b | ★ Capture The Flag - with Sam | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Crimps and pockets.
|
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5.10a | ★★ Monkey Bars - with Sam | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic little jug haul. One of the better steepies for intermediates. Sneakers. Sam sent.
|
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Sat 13th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow Left Field | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Apoplectic Chick From Missouri - with Sam | Average | ||||
Average Brooyarness. Sneakers.
|
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Thu 11th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley The Boneyard | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Captain Blondie Sinks The Ship | 23m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very chalked overhung arete. Finger freeze.
|
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5.11c | ★★★ Bangers and Mash - with Duncan | 21m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Scraping in to the mega classic category. You'd never guess looking at it. Amazing sculpted stone - slopers!
|
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5.10b | ★★ Lucy Goosey | 24m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Slab thing
|
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Thu 11th Oct 2012 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley Midnight Surf | ||||||
5.12c | ★★★ The Crucible | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another super steepy in Midnight Surf. Love the surf! Righteous!
|
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5.13a | ★★ A Farewell to Arms | 24m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fucking yeah!! Steep as!
|