Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 5th Sep 2020 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Septuagenarian Sound Effects - with Matthew Burt | 18m, 6 | Average | |||
Some interesting movement in sections. Holds I used felt surprisingly solid despite looking like dried mud. Definitely some recent breaks, so I wonder if it's harder now. The way I climbed the start, I'd suggest 17, but I didn't bother looking for an easier sequence when I lowered off, so could just be due to poor choices during the onsight. Will be interesting to see how this route evolves...
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Sat 29th Aug 2020 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
Sanctuary | ||||||
21 20 | ★★ The Alchemist - with Matthew Burt | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Was blowing up on this. Combination of the route being much more consistent than I expected and reading things a bit poorly. Should be pretty good when it cleans up more. 21 felt right for my onsight, but could be 20 if climb more intelligently
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Sat 4th Jul 2020 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur - with Mum | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Cleaning gear after Matt's onsight and Dad's flash. Some reasonably interesting sections on this one.
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Sat 6th Jun 2020 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
Sanctuary | ||||||
19 | ★★ Catastrophist - with Matthew Burt | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky crux into some great jug hauling to a great position at the top of the pillar.
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17 | ★ History Never Repeats - with Matthew Burt | 30m | Average | |||
Bolt spacing felt spicy despite (or maybe because of) the low angle. Some yuck rock close to the line too. Head wasn't really in it today.
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Sat 30th May 2020 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ The Hyena's Heinie (Variant Start) - with Mum | 18m, 5 | Average | |||
TR setup for mum and dad. Adds some interesting movement I guess.
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Sun 2nd Feb 2020 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
20 | ★ Razor - with Jack Kilsby | 13m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Avoiding the crowds and trying to do more than one route despite feeling flogged. Found this hard. Definitely consistent climbing for the first few bolts, and hard to read, especially with no chalk on it. One of the worst sessions I’ve had a the cliff for a while, but was still great to catch up with people and pull on some real rock.
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Sat 23rd Nov 2019 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
19 19 R | ★ Arrow - with Matthew Burt | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Actually not too bad. Start was interesting and not as hard as it looks from the ground. I slung the drill hole, but probably wouldn't feel the need now I know where the holds are. Middle section has some nice holds and movement. Almost stuffed the finish as I went too high before stepping right.
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Mon 14th Oct 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★ Jimmy Valmer - with Matthew Burt | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
After bailing from Masterplan area looking for some easier climbing, we ended up here. A worthwhile addition to the cliff with a short thin crux above the big flake/block. Thanks for the bolts Lee Cujes
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Mon 14th Oct 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Mezzaluna Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Tin Man - with Matthew Burt | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Warming up. Interesting crux for sure, but most of the climbing on this is long moves between good holds; don't really see why it gets two stars. Would be proper hard for shorties.
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Sun 13th Oct 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower) | ||||||
22 | ★ Rocky Road - with Matthew Burt | 15m | Average | |||
Fun start that wasn't quite as "streno" as the route description led me to believe. Middle of the route was enjoyable, though the movement was a little repetitive. Finish was a tad confusing; big jugs up right or nails (not 22) holds direct through the bulge...obviously, I went via the jugs, but it felt a little off route given where the last bolt and anchors are positioned.
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Sun 13th Oct 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag The Blowhole | ||||||
24 | ★★ Body Blow - with Matthew Burt | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty chuffed to nab the onsight. Sequenced really well and found many of the holds to be much better than I was expecting. Crux was pretty darn fun, especially with numbed out hands; thankfully managed to rest just enough before it to pull through. Thanks for the permadraws; made it very easy to consume.
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Fri 11th Oct 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Sandwiches Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ These People are Sandwiches - with Matthew Burt | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really enjoyed this one. Moving above the first break was much harder than I expected. Sequenced poorly above the third and had to work a little harder than I should have, but the rest was pretty straightforward. Bolt spacing makes it feel more exposed and exciting than it really is. Called it a day after this as rain was quickly heading our way.
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Fri 11th Oct 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grey Slab | ||||||
20 | ★ Nude Tuesday - with Matthew Burt | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Quite thin above the first. Was a little spicy getting the second clipped, but fine after that. Another little thin pull up high, but the crux is definitely moving past the second.
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17 | ★ Stormy Monday - with Matthew Burt | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Quite good. Fun crux sequence up high.
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Thu 10th Oct 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Electric Blue Area | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Electric Blue - with Matthew Burt | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Simply sensational. I enjoyed every second of this onsight; it's certainly become one of my favourite easy routes in the mountains. Movement was interesting, with the route following a nice wandering line of features up the wall. The final few meters round the small bulge and up to the ledge felt fantastic. Carrots are nicely spaced, helping to create a good sense of exposure while climbing, but it didn't ever feel dangerous to me (the first carrot is about 10m up, with seven in total, so the spacing is around 3.5m). The carrots themselves are a mix of broad-heads and "normal" ones; of the seven carrots, my bolt plates fit four, so I had to use wires on the other three. I found it very easy for 19, but the finish definitely has the ability to bring heartbreak to would-be ascensionists, so it deserves some respect.
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Thu 10th Oct 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Lady Stardust - with Matthew Burt | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I really enjoyed this one, despite the burly start. Rest of the route felt a few grades easier than 21, but has some great sequences. Moving around the final arete felt pretty cool.
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22 | ★★ Hang onto Yourself - with Matthew Burt | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Hands numbed out mid-crux but otherwise went okay. A little disappointed with how the simple the rest of the arete was to climb, was kind of hoping for something a little more engaging than simple jugging, but it's a cool position and a fun crux.
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Tue 8th Oct 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Hot Flyer Wall | ||||||
20 19 | ★★ Flaming Flamingo pitch 1 - with Matthew Burt | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did this as part of the onsight attempt for the full route. Start is definitely technical, then a little spicy to the second (feels like you'd hit the deck if you whip), and then run out on easy ground to the third. Found it quite a bit harder than Hot Flyer pitch 1, so I'm giving this a 20.
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Tue 8th Oct 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper War Babies Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Scramble Syndrome - with Matthew Burt | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Not bad! Two cruxy sections with a comfortable rest in between. I left my feet a little low for the first and only just made it through, then sequenced incorrectly in the second and had to reverse two moves before going the correct way.
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Mon 7th Oct 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower) | ||||||
21 | ★★ Jingle Bells - with Matthew Burt, Sammi | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun. Nice climbing up the flake to the start of the steepness, then it definitely turns on. A pretty fierce crux (for the grade) is followed by some steep jugging that could definitely see you getting some air time; I was working pretty hard against the pump and EOD fatigue.
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Mon 7th Oct 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag The Blowhole | ||||||
22 | ★★ Blow - with Matthew Burt | 10m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing. Sequenced the start boulder really well, finding the holds quite a bit better than I expected. Headwall was good fun too, with some nice consistent movement...kind of a shame it doesn't keep going! I ended up doing the extension, but it adds nothing more than some extra metres.
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Sat 22nd Jun 2019 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Tiger's Tail - with Matt Burt | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Much better than I expected. Matt cruised it, but Mum and Dad had trouble getting past the first due to a long reach. Has some genuinely interesting climbing in it for the grade.
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Sat 8th Jun 2019 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Mank Mistress - with Matt Burt | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Not too bad. Nice to do something new. Some poxy feeling rock in places, but also some nice climbing. Crux up high was good fun, but over very quickly. Matt flashed confidently
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Thu 3rd Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
21 22 | ★★ La Niña - with Matt Burt | 25m, 10 | ||||
Good fun but didn’t feel 22. Well easier than Flash Flood.
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Tue 1st Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Pulpit Rock Bellbird Wall area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Bellbird Wall - with Matt Burt | 100m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had so much fun on this with Matt. His first ever multi and my first in the Bluies, on the first day of the new year. Epic! I lead all pitches and had a blast. Matt pumped out on the crux of the second and fell, but could still reach the rock, avoiding the need to prussic. First pitch was enjoyable and pretty consistent slabbing with one distinct crux section. Pitch two was also enjoyable, but less consistent, with the main bulge providing all the excitement and difficulty. The exposed start of pitch three was outstanding, particularly in the fading twilight, but otherwise very short and simple. Overall, it was a blast!
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Mon 31st Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Jolly Good Fellow (Happy New Year) - with Matt Burt | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Really enjoyed the middle section through the slightly overhanging black rock. Good fun.
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17 | ★ Solvin Puzzle - with Matt Burt | 15m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Wanted to check this one out to see if it was another good warm up option; wasn't for me. Quite techy in places given you're on the arete at times. The crux was quite distinct and though I definitely butchered a few sequences, it felt hard for the grade.
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19 | ★★ Mike and Lorna go to Town - with Matt Burt | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun, though the difficulties are over pretty quick.
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Sun 30th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Wet Feet Area | ||||||
17 | ★★ Wet Feet - with Matt Burt | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Afternoon session for this route and a swim. Climb was pretty fun but over quickly, so not quite a classic. Definitely a must do for the area though. Matt did great on second, despite the pressure of not wanting to fall on the traverse and have to prussic up
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Sun 30th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Disneyland | ||||||
18 | ★ Lady Tremaine - with Matt Burt | 25m | Average | |||
Not as good as Nappy Action. Much less consistent, but possibly cruxier, climbing.
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19 | ★ Captain Hook - with Matt Burt | 25m | Average | |||
Interesting start, but over too soon. The rest is pretty nondescript jugging. Soft for the grade.
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18 | ★ Nappy Action - with Matt Burt | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really enjoyable climbing and the most consistent one of the day. Dad and Matt both flashed on lead.
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Sat 29th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
20 21 | ★★ Starman - with Matt Burt | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Definitely soft for the grade as it's a one-move wonder. The rest is enjoyable jugging with nicely spaced bolts. Could be 20 unless you're short?
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18 | ★★ Jolly Good Fellow - with Mum | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Not as good as some of the others, but a nice engaging crux. Think I went the hard way on the send, as it felt pretty stiff, but then worked out something better on the way down that felt more appropriate for the grade. Matt flashed on lead, Dad onsighted and Mum sent with only one fall on top-rope.
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Wed 26th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Steep Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Friendly Fire - with Matt Burt | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Difficulties are short lived, but otherwise enjoyable.
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18 | ★ Stormin Norman - with Matt Burt | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really quite enjoyed this; some fun movement and great holds.
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17 | ★ Ted Turd-Tossa - with Matt Burt | 8m, 2 | Average | |||
Good but very short. Nice to be climbing in the Bluies again.
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Sat 11th Aug 2018 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Andromeda | ||||||
18 | ★ Dark Matter - with Matt Burt | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Seemed harder than the grade suggests. Felt more like an 18 to me, though only for the start. Wasn't sure if it was meant to finish up Coal Sack or Worm Hole, so opted for the latter. Matt top-roped with one or two falls through the first three bolts.
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13 | ★ More Dark Matter - with Matt Burt | 17m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Reasonably interesting start, though it does protect the start of Coal Sack. Matt flashed, Mum almost onsighted, misreading the start slightly and Dad flashed.
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16 | ★ Solar Eclipse - with Matt Burt | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One of the better routes at the cliff. Loose jug at half-height now marked with big X. Matt flashed, Dad onsighted and Mum flashed.
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15 | ★ Lunar Eclipse - with Matt Burt | 17m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting start. Matt flashed, Mum top-roped with a rest at the last bolt and Dad flashed.
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14 16 | ★ Absolute Zero - with Matt Burt | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Mum (flash) and Dad (onsight) had done this by the time we got to the cliff so went up on their gear. Interesting movement at the start that felt on the stiff end for the grade. Matt flashed it comfortably.
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Fri 10th Aug 2018 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Halfway House | ||||||
19 | ★ Tenacious D - with Alex Mougenot | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Straight after Tenacious D. Also not as easy as it looked from the ground, but equally as enjoyable as it's neighbour. Good finish to a spectacular day out. Great to see Moogie crush some big digits too!
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19 | ★ Rocketsauce - with Alex Mougenot | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Not as juggy as it looked from the ground. Almost came off twice on this! Still, a good line with some fun climbing.
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20 | ★★ Hungry Beast - with Alex Mougenot | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing with a very distinct crux. I yo-yoed a bit at the crux trying to work out an easier way then my initial read, but there didn't seem to be much else available, so had to commit and pulled it off. Surprisingly pumpy and very enjoyable. Could be a classic.
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Fri 10th Aug 2018 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Celestial Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Troposphere (Troposphere p3) - with Alex Mougenot | 110m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent. Quality pitch of climbing made all the better by linking with pitch 2. Seems strange to split this pitch in two...
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17 18 | ★★ Troposphere (Troposphere p2) - with Alex Mougenot | 110m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Much better. Linked with pitch 3.
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Sat 4th Aug 2018 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Kass - with Matt Burt | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Snuck in a send of this while Mum and Dad tried That Boy Needs Therapy. They didn't really enjoy it, but I quite liked this. Short, distinct and enjoyable crux at the start, then a few other nice sequences into the corner/arete and moving past the last.
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Mon 23rd Jul 2018 - Mt Ninderry | ||||||
Octopuses Garden | ||||||
19 | ★ Nemo - with Jack Kilsby | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Boy am I not good at reading Ninderry's slabs haha. This felt well easier than Neo Nasi Goreng.
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Mon 8th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Duck Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Daffy - with Duncan Steel † | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing. Butchered the crux a little and flash pumped a bit, so spent a long time resting on the jugs just after it before realising there was a huge ledge just above me haha. I spent more time resting there thinking the finish was going to the be the main crux, but it turned out to be jugs. Very fun route, and a nice length. Would be classic if the ledge wasn't there.
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16 | ★ Rabbit Season, Duck Season - with Duncan Steel † | 12m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Cleaning gear while Matt and Dad respectively flashed and onsighted Gosling. Not too bad. Lots of options and very short. Didn't do much to warm me up though. Matt onsighted and Dad flashed this for their first climb
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20 | ★ Duckling - with Duncan Steel † | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
More warming up and getting gear on for Matt and Dad while they warmed up. Matt managed to onsight (!!) and Dad just missed out on the flash.
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Sun 7th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
19 18 | ★ Mr Scumbag - with Matt Burt | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Harder crux than Butt Nuggets and Anal Leakage. Overall, I'd say its a soft but cruxy 19. Regardless, all these routes are great—thanks for the rebolt Heath Black. Seven pitches back-to-back before 11am and the 36° heat settled in. So good.
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23 | ★★ Rudolf the Bloody Reindeer - with Matt Burt | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool little start to a tough mantle/long reach around the 3rd (I think). Had to work hard at the 4th as I didn't sight out the holds as well as I should have. Finish was also pretty touch and go as I was feeling pretty fatigued by this stage.
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20 | ★★ Hark! The .. - with Matt Burt | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Also enjoyable, with a great finishing sequence.
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19 | ★ Anal Leakage - with Matt Burt | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Four routes in without a rest and this felt tough! Bouldery little start on this one (that I read very poorly and almost punted), but it gives way to pretty juggy climbing.
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20 | ★★ Mr Christmas Poo - with Matt Burt | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting climbing and definitely a bit cruxier than the others. Still, all the harder bits are broken up by plenty of jugs.
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19 | ★ Butt Nuggets - with Matt Burt | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
More great climbing! Bit of a run out through easy ground in the middle, but everything you need and more is available. Could be soft for the grade, but who cares when it's this enjoyable.
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18 | ★★ Johnny's Jalopies - with Matt Burt | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic in my book. Great climbing through some incredo-buckets with fantastic, airy bolting. Loved this one.
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Fri 5th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Quirrell's Quarrell - with Matt Burt | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Straight after Sound and Vision. So good! Loved the crux up top. Great climbing and another classic in my opinion, though perhaps not quite a consistent as Little Triggers. Matt and Dad top-roped it (I was too lazy to climb it again if they didn't get to the chains lol). Matt didn't quite pull the crux, but Dad got through it after a few goes. They're climbing so good!
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21 | ★★ Sound and Vision - with Matt Burt | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Straight after Little Triggers. I almost dropped the crux, but just got through. Makes me feel like a beginner haha!
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19 | ★★ Little Triggers - with Matt Burt | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Straight after Monkey Girl. Superb climbing. Tough little start to enjoyable overlaps/breaks then great movement through the scoop. Really great value for the grade. Get's a classic in my book.
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Thu 4th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Soft Parade The Right Hand End | ||||||
19 | ★★ The Gravity Game - with Matt Burt | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Very cruxy and a little sandy. Felt more like a 20 to me
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18 | ★ Organic Donkey Milk Products Climb # 1 - with Matt Burt | 12m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Soft for the grade, but pretty fun line. Heaps of metal on this one too, which broke up the climbing a bit, but would be great for someone pushing into the grade.
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Thu 4th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Jean Genie Area | ||||||
24 | ★★ Goosebumps - with Matt Burt | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super fun line and happy to read it well and bag the onsight.
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Thu 4th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Hermione - with Matt Burt | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
More warming up straight after the others. Found this really enjoyable. Great climbing and my favourite of the three by far. Dad and Matt both flashed this too!
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Tue 2nd Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Ancient Mariner Buttress | ||||||
14 | ★ Squashed Parrot - with Matt Burt | 18m | Don't Bother | |||
Thrutchy and sandbagged start for a 14 then juggy climbing that isn't as interesting as it's neighbour. I'd honestly batman past the undercut and claim a 14 from there.
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21 | ★ Cowboy Clip | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Short, fun thuggery.
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19 | ★ Ancient Mariner - with Matt Burt | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I thought this was great. Quite interesting through the scoop and a little pumpy by the time you pull round the top. The carrot route to the left, Albatross, seems a little squeezed in though and could probably have been an alternate finish instead of an "independent" line.
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Tue 2nd Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grey Slab | ||||||
18 | ★ The Answer is Obvious - with Matt Burt | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Not too bad. A bit ho-hum until the very end.
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13 | ★ Trinity - with Matt Burt | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
TR setup for Matt and Dad—bit runout for their first Bluies lead. Nice climbing though.
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Mon 1st Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Hairy Horrace - with Matt Burt | 12m | Average | |||
Not the best warm up. Spicy to second bolt with the boulder below then short techy crimp crux to easy finish.
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Fri 22nd Dec 2017 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
23 | ★★ Sandbanked - with ross ferguson, Glenn | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
More great wall climbing—great addition guys! It's pretty engaging on the headwall and was a very rewarding onsight. Quite solid for the grade.
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22 | ★★ Beach Bum - with ross ferguson, Glenn | 18m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really enjoyable. Felt easier than it's sibling and not as bouldery as I was expecting. A much better warm up option than my memory of Strip Clubs.
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Sat 4th Nov 2017 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Lower Cliffs The Lower Main Cliff | ||||||
20 | ★★ Present And Accounted For - with Matt Burt | 18m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Snuck this in as we were walking out. Super good. Great, engaging movement and fun, flowy sequences.
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Sat 4th Nov 2017 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Andromeda | ||||||
19 | ★ Worm Hole - with Matt Burt, Mum, Dad | 17m, 5 | Average | |||
Quick reccy while the others warmed up. Okay I guess, but hardly suitable for someone at that grade. Found a decent gold just below the second. Would not be recommending a beginner going up to the jugs and clipping at the waist—would be a deckout for sure. The rest of the route is pretty uninteresting. Didn't want to get the leading this s cleaned it straight away.
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Sat 2nd Sep 2017 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
22 | ★★ Bombay Rock - with Matt Burt | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Favourite of the day. Thoroughly enjoyed the climbing and bolting on this one. Multiple cruxes, though none particularly hard for the grade. I found the bolt spacing on this to be perfect—great amount of climbing between clips that kept me focussed but not at risk of getting hurt if I fell. Super good! Great finish to a short 4 hr session at the cliff for Father's Day.
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22 | ★★ Strip Clubs - with Matt Burt | 18m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing on consistent holds. Really enjoyed this one, though it seemed to wander back and forth across the bolt line at times, which had me concerned I was getting off-route at times.
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Mon 14th Aug 2017 - Mt Ninderry | ||||||
Octopuses Garden | ||||||
18 | ★★ Lava Tube (Unknown 3) - with Shannon Keys | 16m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty cool feature. Tree is very close at times and potentially hazardous if falling off before the final bolt. Engaging crux coming out of the scoop.
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Mon 14th Aug 2017 - Mt Ninderry | ||||||
Ocean Vista Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Ninja Tactics - with Shannon Keys | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic face climbing. Interesting the whole way, and steeper than it looks. Builds a great pump...were it only longer!
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Sat 3rd Jun 2017 - Mt Ninderry | ||||||
Ocean Vista Area | ||||||
19 | ★ The Big Boss - with Matt Burt | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Quite enjoyed this. Fun crux and steeper than it looks. Not a bad end to the day, but I definitely should have headed up to Ocean Vista instead of traipsing all the way round to Sunburnt Buttress and back.
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Sat 3rd Jun 2017 - Mt Ninderry | ||||||
Enter the Ninja Sector | ||||||
19 18 | ★★ Neo Nasi Goreng - with Matt Burt | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Very fun finish. Otherwise fairly mediocre slabbing.
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Fri 5th May 2017 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
23 22 | ★★ Dark Side Of The Moon - with ross ferguson | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Fun first crux quickly sees you grappling some very prickly pineapple features. Good climbing, but I wouldn't rate it any better than 'Never Ask the Moon'. Also, not sure it's a full grade harder than it's neighbour. Still, good work Cal!
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Sun 30th Apr 2017 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
15 | ★ Tea for 2 - with Matt Burt | 35m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cleaning gear after Dad's onsight and Mum's flash. Awesome to see them both lead this without resting! Matt crushed it on second too.
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14 | ★ 2 For Tea - with Sarah Doherty, Matt Burt | 32m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Finally got around to doing this myself. Fun jugging. Sarah and Matt sent in good style on second. Particularly proud moment to see Sarah push through the exposure and top it out with no rests
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Sat 29th Apr 2017 - Brooyar | ||||||
Black Stump Buttresses | ||||||
18 19 | ★ Passage - with Sarah Doherty | 15m | Average | |||
Don't think this deserves a star. Okay climbing, but not nearly as enjoyable as The Enticer. Would also suggest it's no harder than 18.
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Fri 14th Apr 2017 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Andromeda | ||||||
18 | ★ Mars - with Sarah Doherty | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One of the best sections of climbing I've done on this wall. First two bolts are nice and engaging, requiring some decent footwork, body positioning and route reading. I quite enjoyed this one. Mum and Dad both did well on this too.
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18 | ★ Graviton - with Sarah Doherty | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Would be tough for shorties. Not as enjoyable as Mars. Gear on for Mum and Dad—they did awesome leading this.
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17 | ★ Horse Head Nebula - with Sarah Doherty | 17m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Also pretty fun. TR setup for Sarah. She sent with one sit.
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15 | ★ Alien Encounter - with Sarah Doherty | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Super busy crag today. TR setup for Sarah. She smashed it.
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Sat 25th Feb 2017 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
The Secret Cave | ||||||
23 | ★ The Nightmare of Milky Joe - with Luke Doherty | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great route. Little tricky at the first roof but you get a good stance at half height and it's fairly cruisy after that. Nice to do something new.
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Sun 25th Dec 2016 - Gandia | ||||||
Peña Roja de Marxuquera Vici | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Fisura tal travesía Pascual (Fisura tal) - with Luke Doherty | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
One of the best at the grade I did this trip. Very interesting climbing throughout—definitely no give away. The hanger for the fourth (or fifth) bolt is missing, so it has a bit of a run out once you round the initial featured start, but it's not an issue if you're comfortable at the grade. Geez I'm gonna miss limestone!
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Fri 23rd Dec 2016 - Mula | ||||||
Ferrari | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Cartagenera - with Luke Doherty | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Superb features, though it's getting pretty polished. Packs a lot of climbing and bolts.
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6a | ★★ Violeta - with Sarah Doherty | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super cool pocket pulling. Tough for the grade with a spicy finish when the top is damp.
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Tue 20th Dec 2016 - Sella | ||||||
La Moleta Competición | ||||||
4 | ★★ Alí Babá y los 40 Komados (Ali Baba) - with Sarah Doherty | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Draws on for Sarah. Great featured slab climbing—Sarah did great to lead it!
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Fri 16th Dec 2016 - Valle de Guadar (Echo Valley) | ||||||
Aran de Batistot Lower Wall | ||||||
6a+ 7a+ | ★ La gloria escondida (Gloria Pitch 1) - with Sarah Doherty | 210m | ★ Good | |||
Rain started to roll in, so I jumped on this to quickly get another route in. Felt at least 6b, but not sure. Weather turned bad, but Luke jumped on an awesome 7b+ that unfortunately had a crimpy boulder crux, so couldn't work it with him. Hopefully the rain goes away and we get some sunshine soon!
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6b+ | ★★ The Dawning - with Luke Doherty | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Looked awesome and climbed great. Super fun jugging at the start to a flowy headwall.
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Thu 15th Dec 2016 - Gandia | ||||||
Peña Roja de Marxuquera Fundició | ||||||
6b 6b+ | ★★ Amarrada al pilló - with Sarah Doherty | 21m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Ended up coming back to this after getting beaten to two other routes I was hoping to get on—super glad I did as this was fantastic. Rockfax guide has it listed as 6b+ but I would agree 6b is more appropriate. Felt less cruxy than Pepestrokja but the flow on this thing was superb! Finger went pretty well on all the buckets but decided to call it a day in lieu of not pushing it too much and rain clouds rolling in. Very keen to get back here for another session and glad that I'll manage with my finger after all.
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6b | ★★ Pepestroika (Pepestrojka) - with Sarah Doherty | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great route, though I almost blew the start on the slippery feet. Second bulge was great fun too. Finger was feeling puffy and tender after this one though, so had an extended break and gave Sarah a climb.
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