Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 3rd Apr 2016 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
18 | ★ The Digital Revolution | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Not to bad at all. Start is interesting (in a good way) but it does turn into generic tibro slopers in the second half. Sat on second bolt to work out the move to the stance. Runout at the end is ok as it's on easy ground. Don't attempt if there is any chance the rock could be wet, the top could be interesting (in a bad way).
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Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Fort Knox Pooh Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Winnie The Pooh Goes Honey Hunting | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Best climb on this wall.
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16 | Christopher Robbin: Toy Boy - with Steffen & Saskia Bollmann | 12m, 2 | Average | |||
Only two bolts
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17 | ★ Piglet Gets Porked - with Steffen & Saskia Bollmann | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Couple of funny moves requiring more than stabbing footwork.
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16 | ★ The Enchanted Place - with Steffen & Saskia Bollmann | 12m, 3 | ||||
Pretty easy but would be a bold lead with only two bolts!
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17 | ★★ Winnie The Pooh Goes Honey Hunting - with Steffen & Saskia Bollmann | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up on top rope, first climb this year!
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15 | ★ Pooh Scoop - with Steffen & Saskia Bollmann | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice climb with friendly bolting. May be a bit soft for 15.
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Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Steves Preposterous Hypothesis | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Looked good so have it a go without looking at the guide. Climbs well, stacks of bolts!
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Sat 7th Nov 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Tiger Stripe | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
14 | ★ Tiger's Tail | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
14 | ★ Tiger's Tail | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 30th Aug 2015 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Andromeda | ||||||
8 | ★ Dugglebutt and the bus of awesome | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Barefoot solo up and down.
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15 18 | ★ Dark Matter | 17m, 6 | Average | |||
I did not think this was much easier than Worm Hole and that was tricky for an 18.
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18 19 | ★ Worm Hole | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Quite tricky for the grade.
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14 | ★ Event Horizon | 17m, 4 | Average | |||
11 | ★ Nebula | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
13 | ★ Star Dust | 17m, 4 | Average | |||
Easy day out.
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Sun 5th Jul 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Bottle Stopper | 18m, 4 | Average | |||
Cleaning gear
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15 | ★ Bottle Stopper | 18m, 4 | Average | |||
Easy arvo at KP
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Sun 5th Jul 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Pterodactyl | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cleaning gear
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18 | ★ Pterodactyl - with PattyD | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easy arvo at KP
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Fri 19th Jun 2015 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Arginonta | ||||||
5c 5c+ | ★★★ And Now for Something Completely Different | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
So good! Do it! There are not many 2m over hanging routes you can do with no hands.
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6b | ★★ Avri | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short but packs a punch, lots of fun.
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5a | ★ Mike's Rescue | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Another warm up, it was cold.
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4c 5a | ★ Katharina (Katherina) | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Easy slab warm up.
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Wed 17th Jun 2015 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
6a+ 6b | ★★ Monahiki Elia | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Woah! I'm not used to this kind of climbing thuggery, the holds are huge but I just can't hold on for that long! Climb is covered in chalk and blood, it is no doubt less classic than it used to be.
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Wed 17th Jun 2015 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Afternoon | ||||||
4b 5a+ | ★ Energy 4 May 2000 | 17m | Average | |||
Draws up for beginner climber.
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6b | ★ L'Uomo che Non Credeva | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice sustained and technical, my style. Happy with this OS.
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5c | ★ L'Amico Ralph | 18m, 8 | Average | |||
Warm up, nothing special.
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Tue 16th Jun 2015 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Kamari Symplegades | ||||||
6b | ★★ Opera | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice climbing, sustained good moves. Needed one rest after a trick clip at half height.
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6c 6b+ | ★★ Bubuki | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt so good through the sustained overhang up to the rest at 2/3 only to be thwarted by the weird sideways holds and arret humping of the last three meters.
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5c 5c+ | ★★★ Phineas | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Heaps of fun, swinging on jugs through overhanging rock - great value.
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Mon 15th Jun 2015 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Kasteli | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Ruheloser Pirat | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Very stiff start on very sharp holds, Could not get it clean. Sustained and sharp the rest of the way.
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5b | ★ Rewithia (Rewitha) | 20m | Don't Bother | |||
Sharp and shitty, tricky bits interspaced with easy scrambling.
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6a | ★ Gefährliche Brandung (Gefahrliche Brandung) | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Absorbing, best route so far, still sharp.
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6a 6a+ | ★★ Piccolo Diavolo | 20m | Average | |||
Distinct tricky clip at mid height, sharp!
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5c | ★ Gruselino | 20m | Average | |||
Easy start, crimpy sharp middle, crappy intro to Kalymnos.
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Sat 23rd May 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ That Boy Needs Therapy. | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Always a fun little climb.
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20 | ★★ Move Over Brussel Sprout | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
After all these years I finally get to redpoint MOBS. Pretty stiff.
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Sat 23rd May 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Anonymous DS | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Easy but still more interesting than the usual slabby sloper climbs at KP
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17 | ★ Dysentery | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One of the better KP routes.
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Mon 11th May 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Bombadil | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Bit trickier than I remember. Finished up Kass.
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16 | ★ Tombstone Row | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Tombstone Row | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
A few laps for fitness, been a while since I was on this.
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Sat 25th Apr 2015 - Mt Tinbeerwah | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Me And My Dog - with Rose | 45m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great route, I must have missed at least one bolt that put me a LONG way above the gear in the middle, kept a cool head and felt good!
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17 | ★★ Sports Fan - with Rose | 45m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice route. The fun moves through overhang are well protected. Crux is finding the carrots!
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14 | ★ Degrees Of Freedom - with Rose | 35m, 7 | Average | |||
One tricky section at the start then just stepping up blocky slab for 25m.
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Mon 13th Apr 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ The Duck's Nuts | 16m, 5 | Average | |||
12 | ★ Date Anatomy | 16m, 4 | Average | |||
Sun 4th Jan 2015 - Railay | ||||||
Escher World | ||||||
5a 5 | ★ Short and Easy | 13m, 4 | Average | |||
Done just to take photos of the view from the top. So polished that this climb is no doubt a lot harder that when it was originally climbed.
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6b | ★★ Humming Song | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice! Pretty exciting with the un-Thailand-like space between the bolts. Great moves that make anyone look good. I think I made it into an Italian families holiday album!
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6b | ★ Mei Rue Arei | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Fun climb, it's all over pretty quick though.
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5a 5 | ★ Long Doo | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Ok warm up.
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Fri 2nd Jan 2015 - Railay | ||||||
Wee's Present Wall | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Same Same, But Different | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Redpoint attempt, clean right through to past the last bolt then took a stupid fall when foot slipped.
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6b+ | ★★ Same Same, But Different | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This climb is awesome, traversing over some fun territory, up the big stalactite to the pumpy finish. Rested on the third bolt after the nasty start then clean to the top.
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6a | ★ Roi-Et | 17m, 6 | Average | |||
Sharp crappy rock but ok warm up.
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Thu 1st Jan 2015 - Railay | ||||||
Wee's Present Wall | ||||||
6a | ★★ A Man Can Tell a 1000 Lies | 15m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
Polished, shit rock, run out between crappy slings, shithouse. Beginners would be better off doing a slightly harder better quality route to the right.
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6a+ | ★★ Hello Christine | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb, fun moves between the bolts with good stances and an exciting and pumpy finish. Deserves more stars.
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5b | ★ Way to the Top | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
Decent easy climb, mostly good rock.
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Mon 29th Dec 2014 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Fire Wall | ||||||
6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This bit of rock was made to be climbed, not many overhung routes you can do no hands! The mirror sheen on every hold almost makes it an honest 6a.
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6a+ | ★★ Up in Smoke | 17m, 9 | Average | |||
Not bad, slings don't inspire confidence. Made a lot tougher using a grigri and a rope with the handling characteristics of steel cable. Pumped out waiting for slack to clip!
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Mon 8th Dec 2014 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ The Bee's Knees | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
14 | ★ The Duck's Nuts | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 10th Nov 2014 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ The Duck's Nuts | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
12 | ★ Date Anatomy | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 7th Jun 2014 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
15 | ★ Miss Kandy Kane | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
I thought this would be better given the popularity, the rock is turning back into sand up top! The bolts at the chains are looking pretty ordinary as well, some glue-ins are in order.
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17 | ★★ 2,4,5 T | 42m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Obligatory lap on this climb, so much fun.
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15 | ★ Tea for 2 | 35m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun climb that has some steep rock in the upper half. Spent 2 hours belaying up multiple seconds!
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Fri 6th Jun 2014 - Brooyar | ||||||
Black Stump Buttresses | ||||||
15 | ★ My Brothers Keeper (My brothers crack whore girlfriend) | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed again to clean.
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15 | ★ My Brothers Keeper (My brothers crack whore girlfriend) | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Steep, low grade and fun leading.
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16 | ★ Snake Charmer | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One tricky clip in there.
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19 | ★★ Footprints on the Other Side | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Stoked to cruise it after the last dogged ascent.
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14 | ★ The Dog's Paw | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Rope up for friends.
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13 | ★ One Legged Dog | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Warm-up and rope up for friends. Fun low grade climb.
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Fri 23rd May 2014 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Rope up for friends, first climb in months!
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20 | ★★ Move Over Brussel Sprout | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Easier than I remember. Fun climb.
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14 | ★ That Boy Needs Therapy. | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good easy route.
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14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Cleaning route.
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15 | ★ Bottle Stopper | 18m, 4 | Average | |||
Cleaning route.
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Sat 15th Mar 2014 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
17 | ★★ 2,4,5 T | 42m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb, do this one every time I'm at Eagles Nest, heaps of fun.
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17 | ★ Little Ray Of Sunshine | 45m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thought I'd done this before but must have ticked this previously when I was actually on 245T. I got a bit confused at the tricky overhang up top. It's easy once you commit.
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Fri 14th Mar 2014 - Brooyar | ||||||
Green Lane | ||||||
15 | Book Em' Danno | 10m | Average | |||
Not a 13 at the start, got a bit of a surprise! Top out is great, best bit of the climb, def take a sling for pro up there. Feels like the climb was never properly equipped.
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21 | ★★ DH4 | 7m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got it clean after sorting out the sequence at the start. Did not get a chance to go for the red point.
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21 | ★★ DH4 | 7m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Originally graded 22, downgraded to 20 in the guide, now 21 here. 21 seems about right. Balancy sequence at the start that is very tough to onsite. Top is not difficult but there is no good clipping stance/hold that I could find for the last bolt making it a bit of a heart breaker.
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13 | The End Is Nigh | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
Better than it looks.
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18 | ★ Herb's In The Fernery | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty tough getting through the roof. Interesting top out.
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16 | ★ New Day Rising | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up, nice easy climb, nothing really memorable.
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Sat 15th Feb 2014 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Lower Cliffs The Lower Main Cliff | ||||||
21 | ★★ Serenade For Rings | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
With a total disregard for style and technique I trashed my way up this. Not sure if this is a sandbag or I'm just soft?
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18 | ★ Old Scholars | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Do I need to say this is hard for the grade... After flailing around on the crux I was almost too pumped to clip the 3rd(?) bolt, just getting there and avoiding an unpleasant fall back to the slab.
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17 | ★★ Absentia | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow, maybe it was a 17 in 1994 when it still had holds! Now at the original grade it is a sandbag. Still a great route though.
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Sat 1st Feb 2014 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
19 | ★★ Gnarley | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I'm glad Rob pushed me to do this at the end of the day. I was tired so dogged it. Fun climb though and I'm looking forward to doing it with fresher arms.
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22 | ★★ Bombay Rock | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sustained first and second halves with a welcome break in between. Got it clean to second last bolt then missed that side pull up to the left. A couple more sits to get to the chains. Still really happy with this shot, it felt good and I had a great time.
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18 | ★ TOS | 12m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Yep, pumpy like they say! Great fun and a route I can see myself doing many times.
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16 | ★ What Were We Thinking | 20m, 8 | Average | |||
There is no escaping it, the rock is terrible but the climbing is actually fun. Should clean up eventually.
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14 | ★ I'm Lichen It More | 20m, 8 | Average | |||
Super easy but fun, good for beginners.
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Sat 18th Jan 2014 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Slider Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Slider | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean to last bolt then could not make the reachy move past it while pumped. Sorted out a bit of beta there and worked out a better way to clip the chains. Getting closer.
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22 | ★★ Slider | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Forgot where I was going just before the second last bolt, pumped out and took a rest. Then took a couple of falls doing the moves after the last bolt. Still having trouble with the stance for clipping the chains.
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Fri 27th Dec 2013 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Surrender | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Cleaning the gear. Confirmed this climb is all in the head.
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19 | ★★ Surrender | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Harder on the head than the arms, those ledges are ever present. Nice moves though. It would be a great climb if the first three bolts were reshuffled and maybe another added low down.
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17 | ★★ Pass the Bosch | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up, awkward down low.
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