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Ascents as various tick types as sport by Paul Frothy Thomson

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,366 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Date
Oceania Melanesia South Pacific Underworld
23 Cowgirl - with Stephen Varney Sport 18m, 8 Very Good Sat 25th Jun 2022
Stop-start, but cool cruxes! An excellent second warmup.

 
22 8 Ball - with Stephen Varney Sport 18m, 8 Classic Sun 26th Jun 2022
As good as advertised. Short'n'sweet, with really interesting technical climbing. Fairly sustained at the grade. I bet that upper crux surprises a few people.

 
Oceania Melanesia South Pacific Descent Gully - Left Side
24 I Wanna Be a Cowboy - with Viona Young Sport 20m, 12 Very Good Sun 26th Jun 2022
Can't claim the onsight, cause I'd done the start on Bee's Knees

The crux is very much the gnarly start boulder. The upper bit through the roof is fun, and not too hard, but the bolting is kinda ledge-fall-y. Not as choss as it looks, either.

 
23 It Began In Afrika - with Viona Young, Stephen Varney Sport 12m, 7 Very Good Sun 26th Jun 2022
For some reason I decided the obvious hold out left at the top was off-route (on the line next to this), and ignored it. Since when did I contrive climbing? 2nd shot. A really great route with a lot of climbing despite being short. The top boulder is rad!

 
Oceania Melanesia South Pacific Palm Jungle
24 Ride the Lightning - with Stephen Varney Sport 25m, 12 Very Good Sat 25th Jun 2022
Sweet. This was my goal for this trip, and got it done! With not a drop of chalk on it, it was a tricky, sequency number, but totally suited my style of climbing. Even in the full sun, it was fun!

Nothing physically harder than grade 23, but lots of technique and committment called for. I climbed the arete direct all the way to the top. Almost a classic (but for the poxy start, and the overall shortness).

 
Oceania Melanesia South Pacific Half Baked Wall
25 Lean Streak - with Stephen Varney Sport 20m Classic Sun 26th Jun 2022
2nd shot. Best line I climbed at this crag!

My onsight ended at the last bolt, tickling the good fingerlock. With no chalk on this, I felt like I battled hard and improvised well, only to be pipped at the post. But it wasn't for lack of trying, so that's okay

Great rock, super techy moves, and an obvious feature to climb. We belayed from ground level, and had no problems with rope drag or length of fall.

 
24 When There Are Nine - with Viona Young Sport 25m, 10 Very Good Sun 26th Jun 2022
FFA. 2nd shot. Thanks Viona for letting me free this awesome face route!

Cruisy slabbing to a good stance at the 2nd last bolt, then its all on to the finish, with very technical climbing following a weird feature up-and-right -footwork was key!

Great fun, and excellent vision from Viona!

 
Oceania Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat Tombstone Boulders The Engine Block
12 The Radiator Sport 15m, 4 Very Good Sun 11th Dec 2011
13 in the new guide. Awesome climb for the grade, as the book says: "Classic slab moves". - No chalk and someone elses climbing boots.

 
Oceania Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone
21 20 Disco Inferno Sport 15m, 3 Very Good Sun 11th Dec 2011
Great fun. Tricky start to the first bolt, after that it's pretty straightforward. Fell on the first bolt on my first attempt, clean after that, and cruised it second shot. Other than the trad climbs here, this was the pick of the bunch in my opinion. - No chalk and someone elses climbing boots.

 
17 18 Rusty Pins Sport 15m, 6 Good Sun 11th Dec 2011
Quite good. 17 is more on the money (the new guide says 18... Maybe for 1 move). Sustained at 17, but a nice short route. - No chalk and someone elses climbing boots.

 
17 Fingers Columbia Sport 15m, 5 Very Good Sun 11th Dec 2011
Good fun. Reasonably sustained for the grade. I'm really struggling with identifying the good footers here. - No chalk and someone elses climbing boots.

 
Oceania Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat The Main Cliff
13 Do I Have To? Sport 20m, 5 Average Sun 11th Dec 2011
Completely unremarkable. Warm up, I guess. - No chalk and someone elses climbing boots.

 
17 Headbangers Arete Sport 20m, 5 Very Good Sun 11th Dec 2011
Awesome arete climbing. Everything you could want in a harder grade arete, but contained within 20m of grade 17 climbing (and a weird finish). Definately worth the effort of roping up! - No chalk and someone elses climbing boots.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania North East North Esk Riverbend
19 Eiffel Tower Sport 12m, 2 Very Good Sat 31st Jan 2015
Takes less time to climb than it does to put your shoes on to climb it, but all of moves are worthwhile, especially for the grade. Nice low-grade arete climbing. A bit exciting getting to the 1st bolt if you do the direct start up the arete.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania North East Hillwood (private land) Rock Of Ages & Surrounds
23 22 Living Sacrifice Sport 18m Good Sat 13th Feb 2016
2nd shot. Possibly the most sandbagged 22 I've been on in Aus. Solid/hard 23 for sure. The hardest I pulled all day by about 2 grades. Punchy, thin, sharp climbing on less than perfect rock (for the area). Don't believe the crap in the guidebook about this being one of the best at its grade. Even ignoring the sandbag its pretty average.

 
23 Ancient of Days Sport 15m Classic Sat 13th Feb 2016
2nd shot. Blew the Onsight with an unfortunate foot slip while questing around at the crux... damn, I suck. Cruised it (and loved it) 2nd shot. Brilliant steep stemming on perfect rock, with a profound and pumpy crux.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania North East Hillwood (private land) Matto Grosso The Dungeon
25 Bozon Sport 12m Very Good Wed 4th Mar 2015
2nd shot. Utterly spanked by the boulder problem start to the 2nd bolt on the onsight. Reminds me of a sloper version of War and Peace in the Blueys. Definite crux at the start to a very hard clip on a giant sloper, then big moves between (mostly) big slopers to the top, with a fair bit of climbing for a short route. Better than I expected, and quite pumpy.

 
23 Dr Pepper Sport 12m Very Good Sat 13th Feb 2016
Fun. A crimpy bouldery start for 4 bolts leads to easier, pumpy slopers to the top. Fun climbing but over quickly.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania North East Hillwood (private land) Matto Grosso Golgotha
24 Raiden Sport 9m Very Good Wed 4th Mar 2015
Not quite an Onsight. I fell at the first bolt (admittedly, the crux), lowered off and ticked it 2nd shot placing the draws. I was quite pumped and had to climb past the anchors to clip them below me off better holds. Bouldery to the 2nd bolt, then briefly but intensely up to the anchors with no "good" holds to be found. This one got me flash-pumped quickly.

 
22 The Long Kiss Goodnight Sport 25m, 12 Very Good Mon 18th Mar 2024
Clean repeat. Wow, I forgot what a wild showstopper the finale (through the roof direct) is. Earns the grade for this one sequence, but its a good one.

 
22 The Long Kiss Goodnight Sport 25m, 12 Very Good Wed 4th Mar 2015
Varied and interesting. Technical slab of varying degrees of slabiness and spaced bolting for the most part, with a final committing sequence through the roof on slopers right at the top. Quite good. Some tough and memorable moves on the slab, but the roof is the showstopper.

 
19 Ghost Rider Sport 27m, 10 Classic Mon 18th Mar 2024
Clean repeat. Just pleasant, flowing slabbing the whole way. Dreamy!

 
19 Ghost Rider Sport 27m, 10 Classic Wed 4th Mar 2015
By FAR the best climb I did at Hillwood, despite being the easiest. Very sustained slabbing with pretty much every move to the grade, and all moves quite different and memorable. The strange location and angles of holds keeps you thinking the whole way, and the tricky finale through a slight bulge adds the sting in the tale to make it awesome.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania North East Hillwood (private land) Matto Grosso The Wailing Wall
21 Sugar Mountain Sport 10m Very Good Mon 18th Mar 2024
Sharp little crimps, but everything is just so much more positive than you expect. A fun little ramble.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania North East Hillwood (private land) Matto Grosso The Leviathan
22 No Antidote Sport 15m Very Good Mon 18th Mar 2024
I fell off the start boulder a couple of times till I found the holds. A very cool finale.

 
21 Yuddy Boody Noo Sport 15m Very Good Mon 18th Mar 2024
Repeat. Weird, funky, and tough.

 
21 Yuddy Boody Noo Sport 15m Very Good Wed 4th Mar 2015
First climb on Basalt! Weird climbing up a wall of scales. So many sneaky sidepulls and weird feet. Hard move at the start and the finish, but genuonely enjoyable techy thinness all around.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania North East Hillwood (private land) Matto Grosso The Chessboard
15 The Butterfly Climb Sport 8m Good Sat 13th Feb 2016
Onsight solo. Okay.

 
12 Climbing Date Sport 8m Good Sat 13th Feb 2016
Onsight solo. Pleasant easy climbing.

 
14 Like Nectar for Butterflies Sport 12m, 5 Good Sat 13th Feb 2016
Onsight solo. Short but enjoyable. Topped out.

 
16 Enviromental Decay Sport 6m, 5 Good Sat 13th Feb 2016
Onsight solo. Enjoyable middle section.

 
16 Revelation Six Sixteen Sport 15m, 5 Very Good Sat 13th Feb 2016
Onsight solo. Cant complain. Fun final moves.

 
18 Ligament Laxity Sport 15m Very Good Sat 13th Feb 2016
Good climbing. Thin and technical. My 2nd fav climb on this wall.

 
18 Nothing Left to Give Sport 15m Very Good Sat 13th Feb 2016
My favourite route on this wall. Great moves involving body position and footwork.

 
18 One Perfect Day Sport 15m Very Good Sat 13th Feb 2016
Onsight solo. Quite good. The shouldery sloper moves around the blob were exciting without a rope.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania North East Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill
23 Cluecified Sport 85m, 14 Classic Sat 27th Feb 2016
With Isaac. Pitch 1 (21) & Pitch 2 (23) only, Onsight both pitches. So much better (and outrageous) than it looks from the ground. P1 starts up a pleasant corner, but soon becomes reminiscent of The Spartan at Piddo (awkwardly underclinging a steep block as you traverse forever delicately, toeing the lip of an undercut). Rad exposure! P2 is an extremely technical face with a powerful steep start, and sustained strange moves above. Didnt do P3 as it looked pretty average.

 
23 22 Blue Suede Clues Sport 18m, 6 Very Good Sat 27th Feb 2016
Pumpy, but on pretty good holds, nice rock, and with only a brief cruxy section. Probably more 22 than 23. No classic route, but worth a star (and would be super-popular in the Blueys).

 
23 Cluedo Sport 30m, 13 Classic Sat 27th Feb 2016
A great, technical, thin and sustained line. A bit mossy due to lack of traffic (and I was scrubbing holds and footers on lead before entering the insecure top crux), bit even some greenery cant rob this of classic status. Psyched for the true (unchalked, unworn) onsight.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania East North Sister Summit Plateau
23 This is Spinal Tap Sport 14m Good Sat 14th May 2016
Grrr, fell off a Grade 20 move at the 2nd bolt (despite being on Onsight, my belayer started spouting beta, which -as it turned out- was totally wrong). Came back to the ground without working the move, and then onsighted to the top (which encompassed all the hard climbing). Some good climbing with a sustained upper half, but due to the aspect this has a grotty feel to it, and will probably attract moss.

 
24 Stunt Cock (Ingvar's Unnamed Route) Sport 12m Very Good Sat 14th May 2016
Fell off at the 2nd bolt (which IS the 1st crux) when I didn't find the good part of the crux sloper. Lowered back to the ground without trying the move again, and went straight up to the top, flashing most of the climb (and the upper crux). Slopey and crimpy lower section, then intriguing arete and steep face upper-section. Enjoyable.

 
20 Smell the Glove Sport 12m Very Good Sat 14th May 2016
Not too bad for an easy climb. 3 varied and tricky sections that might stump the average sport climber. Quite clean.

 
24 Sponge Bob Sport 12m Very Good Sat 14th May 2016
2nd shot. Quite sustained and with a tough crux. I got shut down by the mid-height crux until I worked out a good sequence, and cruised the route fluidly on the second shot. There are a LOT of moves on this that you could fall of, including the tricky section above the crux. Good hard-ish face climbing.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania East North Sister Main Face
25 Yank Me and Crank Me Sport 22m Very Good Sun 12th Jun 2016
The climbing is awesome, sustained and intense... the rock quality is average (though I didnt break off anything). Straightforward moves, just intense and without any reprieve to chill and breathe. Happy with the flash. Steep crimping with big moves and tricky footers.

 
24 Twisted Sister Sport 35m, 18 Very Good Sat 14th May 2016
A long adventure. Blew the onsight ONE move from sticking the technical bridging crux (with a foot-slip off a tic-tac I was bridging off) at the 3rd bolt. Lowered back to the ground, untied, retied and went up, onsighting the top 28m of this climb (including the upper 2 cruxes, both about gr23). Varied climbing up a complex line. With this adventure its not over until its over (you could easily blow the gr21 arete slapping final moves to gain the anchor). The crag classic for the JOURNEY it presents.

 
25 Now, swallow! - PROJECT GERRY Sport 12m Very Good Sun 12th Jun 2016
2 Top Rope Laps (it's still a Project so there was no point leading it). First lap wasn't clean, due to trying to find the crucial "good" part of the arete slapping section. Very short, and briefly powerful, but interesting arete-slapping and fridge-hugging, heel-hooking around the left-arete, and then again around some sloper-sidepulls to the right. Rad. Will be great when it's finished.

 
22 Lick my Love Pump Sport 25m Classic Sun 12th Jun 2016
Repeat. Clean Placing draws today. Felt harder than I remember it, but the water streak might have contributed to that. Could be 23? Rad technical stemming and beautiful white quartzite.

 
22 Lick my Love Pump Sport 25m Classic Sat 14th May 2016
Yep, I'm going to give a route at THIS crag classic (and a Gerry Narkowicz new route as well!!!). Amazing white quartzite patina up a fairly blank box-groove system. Lots of technical bridging and stemming, with sustained climbing the whole way. The "classic" status is awarded on the proviso of the FA that he'll do some more "fine-tune" scrubbing on the upper 1/3rd to bring it to perfection.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania East South Sister Tea Pot Rocks
22 Big Bang Theory Sport 30m, 10 Good Sat 17th Jan 2015
One very hard sequence (probably utterly nails if you're short) surrounded by easier, okay climbing. Not a great route, by the groove feature looks intriguing.

 
22 I'm a Little Teapot Sport 18m Very Good Sat 17th Jan 2015
Aesthetically unappealing, and the rock is rather average, but the climbing is quite good. Consistently thin and balancy. It comes together nicely for some technical trickery.

 
24 Bored to Death Sport 25m, 8 Very Good Sat 17th Jan 2015
Very hard strenuous start until you can get established in a stemming stance in the groove proper, then nice, thin, technical climbing at about gr22 to the top. A funky looking line.

 
24 Mr Tea Sport 18m, 7 Very Good Fri 30th Jan 2015
2nd shot. Burly and technical in equal doses. The thuggy but awkward start leads to a balancy arete and a ridiculous throw leaving it to gain a good edge. My onsight ended on the top arete. The 2nd shot with the sequence dialled felt great. Good rock. Quite sustained but with good stances.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania East South Sister Pole 62
25 Out of the Shadows Sport 25m Classic Tue 10th Apr 2018
2nd shot. So much for a "rest day". The ludicrous overhang is formed by the fact that the dolerite column has fallen over, and you are climbing the underside, with very few "holds" but lots of intriguing features and body-positions to work to keep you on. The final moves at the lip would be an onsight killer, and even on red-point I only just kept the thin and powerful moves together. Absolutely brilliant, would be a classic anywhere in the world.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania East Fingal Valley Township Creek Fireball Pinnacle Area
23 Horus Sport 18m Very Good Fri 20th Feb 2015
2nd shot. Mostly enjoyable tricky arete climbing, but with a pronounced, very cruxy crux section that felled me on the onsight. Makes a great warmup when you know the crux sequence.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania East Fingal Valley Three O'Clock Hill
17 Rock N Roll is King Sport 12m Good Sat 16th Mar 2024
An okay face climb.

 
19 Crocodile Rock Sport 14m Very Good Sat 16th Mar 2024
The best of the routes on this boulder. More technical and interesting than it looked from the ground.

 
22 Rock Around the Clock Sport 15m Very Good Sat 16th Mar 2024
Short, but intense and unlikely.

 
21 Let’s Get Rocked Sport 18m Very Good Sat 16th Mar 2024
A few cool moves when you first come around the arete, then victory jugs to the top.

 
23 Hard as a Rock Sport 20m Very Good Sat 16th Mar 2024
Surprisingly sustained thin moves the whole way. I didn't find the sneaky crimp near the top on my onsight attempt.

 
23 Rock Hard and Ride Free Sport 20m Very Good Sat 16th Mar 2024
An enjoyable, easy start, leads to a brutal, thin and technical finale. Exciting for a slab.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania East Fingal Valley Bare Rock New Horizons
24 The Mullets' Edge Sport 18m Classic Sun 17th Mar 2024
Repeat attempt - not clean today. In this instance, I couldn't even touch the opening move, but had no real trouble from after it to the top. But for the bouldery start, this route is better, and more arete-y than I remember it.

 
24 The Mullets' Edge Sport 18m Classic Mon 9th Mar 2015
2nd shot. On the Onsight I ended up on the wrong side of the arete to clip the 2nd bolt and couldn't get back on route, thus blowing it. The 2nd shot went okay, but was still hard work. Super-sustained knifeblade arete climbing which doesnt give it up without a battle of balance and barn-dooring. Crux at 2nd bolt, with an out-there sting in the tail as you climb thinness straddling the arete for the last 4m or so. Very sharp thin crimps for the right hand, and arete slapping for the left.

 
21 Way Of The Beanie Sport 15m, 6 Very Good Sun 17th Mar 2024
Really short, but really tricky and unrelenting in my opinion. I came close to falling a few times.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania East Fingal Valley Bare Rock The Block
25 Blockhead - Left Hand Variant Sport 10m, 7 Very Good Fri 6th May 2016
Repeat Attempt. 1 fall today at the 4th bolt, but pieced the rest together okay. Bloody desperate, thin, technical, punchy and sustained... and all this in about 12m of climbing!

 
24 25 Blockhead - Left Hand Variant Sport 10m, 7 Very Good Thu 4th Feb 2016
2nd shot. Very sustained and bouldery until you gain the top slab. Even on the tick I found the opening 5 bolts quite intense and tricky. Extremely fingers and thin. I had to skip the 4th bolt as I couldn't clip it on link. Worth a lap if you get caught in the sun on Bare Rock, as its in the shade until 2pm.

 
25 Andrew's Project #3 Sport 12m, 10 Good Thu 14th Apr 2016
2nd shot on Top Rope. This is still a Project so I couldn't steal the First Ascent. A solid V3+ boulder problem in the first 5m, then about grade 16 technical slab to the top. Some funky, powerful moves.

 
26 Andrew's Project #2 Sport 8m Good Fri 15th Apr 2016
Clean on Top Rope. This is still a Project so I couldn't steal the First Ascent. Took me about 8 shots to stick the (softish) V4 boulder start (falling back to the ground each time), then continued clean to the top. Very powerful start on great rock, followed by slopey, groovy weirdness to the top.

 
26 Stiff Upper Cock Sport 12m, 10 Classic Wed 11th May 2022
TRS Clean 2nd shot. I wanted to give this a lap now that it's no longer a closed project, but absent belayer, TRS will have to do. I've given this little gem classic, because I just can't imagine 12m of climbing getting much better (Great rock, super sustained, complex, technical moves, a very obvious line... even the initial gr21 crack section was engaging with bombproof rock).

 
15 Block O'Clock Sport 8m, 3 Average Thu 14th Apr 2016
A bit mossy, dirty and friable to make a solid free-solo... but probably not too unpleasant for a short, easy, thin arete if you actually bring a rope.

 
15 Block O'Clock Sport 8m, 3 Good Wed 11th May 2022
Repeat. Great way to access the top of the boulder. Has cleaned up nicely since last time I did it, and is now good insecure fun.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania East Fingal Valley Bare Rock Supernaut Face
25 24 Neon Knights Sport 45m Classic Wed 10th Feb 2016
Stoked! The best of the climbs on Supernaut face. A full grade harder than Supernaut, and 1/2 grade harder than Into the Void. Very sustained all the way to the top. Bouldery start, then some technical thiness, to a desparate roof-turn, to more technical, wandery thinness, to a steep water-polished technical bridging finale up an overhanging V-groove, with a final easy (but exposed) roof to turn. Memorable! Might be nails 24 for the ultimate dialed red-point attempt, but 25 for onsight.

 
24 Supernaut Sport 45m, 16 Classic Wed 10th Feb 2016
A brutal warmup. 3rd shot, I guess. Fell off at the 2nd bolt on Onsight (didn't find the hold in the seam)... Came straight back down and went up again immediately, and fell off again. Came down, rested, then went to the top, Onsighting from where I fell up. Damn. Very cruxy bouldery start, Easing to about 22 at the 5th bolt (through the funky technical traverse), then 20/21 up the long, exposed, thin arete. A brilliant excursion to the top of Bare Rock.

 
25 Into the Void Sport 45m Very Good Tue 29th Dec 2015
Thought I was on Supernaut... whoops. Fell off at 4th bolt, epic flash pump warmup through the steep dynamic opening moves. Lowered back to the ground from there, then went to the top onsighting from the 4th bolt up. Powerful throwing at the start, then a technical corner featuring a gr23 second crux, and an awesome face finale up the headwall.

 
20 Master of Puppets - Pitch 2 Sport 30m Very Good Thu 14th Apr 2016
A quick Onsight ascent helping Andrew Martin get his fixed ropes in place to commence working the (gr26) bottom pitch. Very exposed position on the lip of The Great Roof, with technical thin face climbing on great rock that starts easy and gets harder all the way. A worthwhile pitch... but probably too much mucking around just to climb this pitch on its own.

 
26 Master of Puppets - with Jared Anderson Sport 55m, 13 Classic Sat 23rd Apr 2022
2nd shot. First clean repeat, I think. Mega exposed climbing through huge blocky roofs on immaculate rock. I giggled my way up this on the send (singing Lovecats, for some reason).

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania East Fingal Valley Bare Rock Easter Rising Face
27 Green Spandex Sport 18m, 5 Very Good Fri 25th Mar 2016
2 more laps this morning. This is a brutal warmup! Graded 27 originally, its probably more solid/hard 26. Might be 27 if you cant climb hard cracks. Good linkage on 1st shot (2 falls - 1 more due to lack of commitment than difficulty - I was still scared up here today!), then a rad full link 2nd shot... but this could be tough to tick on lead. The crack is a somewhat crumbly at the back, but the rock on the headwall is immaculate and perfect. Why are all the climbs that suit me so damn inaccessible? I'll be back on lead next.

 
27 M1 Masked Lapwing - with Jared Anderson, Stephen Varney Sport 40m Very Good Thu 5th May 2022
5 days of effort in total to free both pitches. It takes a lot for exposure to scare me, but this route managed it. Super obscure, but stunning.

Wild, gymnastic traversing, with huge falls into space. I got in the habit of climbing this with my grigri pre-set just behind my knot, and my Jumaar ready for rapid deployment.

On one of my laps on P2 I took a really bad fall, to the point I thought I'd broken my foot. I managed the Send on my final real shot of the trip.

The Aid move on P1 probably goes free if you've a bigger standing reach than me. The one on P2 definitely goes free, but it adds at least 3 more grades to the pitch. Feel free to go for the true FFA!

 
23 24 Enchanted to a Stone Sport 45m Very Good Thu 5th May 2016
End of day lash to the interim belay (3 bolts from the top anchors) on the big ledge just below the crux. I decided not to tackle the infamously nails crux today, and lowered off from here. Extremely technical, insecure face climbing on immaculate, slippery rock, with a few rooflets to negotiate. Quite enjoyable so far...

 
24 Enchanted to a Stone Sport 45m Very Good Fri 20th May 2016
2nd shot. First Repeat! Got rather shutdown by the very tricky and unlikely complex stemming through impossibly steep stepped-roofs, and spent about an hour figuring it out. This is definately only gr24 for the true redpoint, though the techniques and complexity of moves might take some (including me) a bit of effort to resolve. With the beta its gr24, and infinitely repeatable. Outrageous position, old-school, insecure bridging, and thoroughly enjoyable (in a moderately masochistic way).

 
25 Easter Rising - with Jason McCarthy Sport 40m Mega Classic Wed 4th May 2016
ALMOST a retro-flash (thought I certainly didn't remember much of it... mostly because there's so much TOO it!). Some epic feats of endurance, and up-climbing and down-climbing piecing together sequences, and I carried a near Terminal Pump into the final tricky corner sequence, but kept it together for the tick. Amazing rock. Old-school, varied, hard-to-read climbing. Outrageous position. Mind blowing.

 
25 A Terrible Beauty Sport 45m Very Good Wed 1st Jun 2016
Backlogging. 2nd shot on this day. 4th total. Not sure who I climbed this with for the tick. Maybe Daniel? After my epic rant about the bolting on my ground-up attempt (and bungling the finale on my 2nd shot) previously, I figured that I'd better actually get the route done to vindicate my claims that it is quality despite 1 bolt placement.

 
Oceania Australia Tasmania East Fingal Valley Bare Rock Main Face
23 The Best Thing Since Powdered Milk Sport 33m Very Good Wed 30th Dec 2015
2nd shot. The first 6m of this is a V3 boulder with some of the ugliest climbing I've done at Bare Rock (dirty -I spent 15min scrubbing the start boulder after falling off on onsight-, friable, and awkwardly powerful), but from the 4th bolt up this is brilliant technical slabbing, getting consistantly harder until the final gr23 slab crux at 32m just before the anchors. If you can hack/endure the crappy start, there is joy to find here.

 
23 HomoClimbtastic Sport 30m Good Mon 12th Mar 2018
2nd shot. Stuck the crux (climbing it totally chalkless and wrong) on the onsight, then had a foot-slip soon after . Was fine 2nd shot. Okay climbing, very cruxy, not as good as Tomorrow's Dream P3.

 
23 Tomorrows Dream - Variant 2nd Pitch Sport 20m Very Good Sat 16th Apr 2016
Repeat. 2nd clean today. This and technical. 21/22?

 
23 Tomorrows Dream - Variant 2nd Pitch - with Jared Anderson Sport 20m Very Good Sat 23rd Apr 2022
Clean repeat. Whew... thinner than I remembered! This one got me warm.

 
23 Tomorrows Dream - Variant 2nd Pitch (Tomorrows Dream (Second Pitch)) Sport 20m Very Good Tue 29th Dec 2015
Probably more 21 than 23, especially considering the neighbouring black slab routes as a grading baseline. Some fun black slabbing with a few tricky thin moves, and some unfortunate fragile rock.

 
19 Tomorrows Dream Sport 100m Very Good Tue 29th Dec 2015
With Hugh. Clean 2nd P1 and P3, Onsighted the fully bolted variant 2nd pitch instead of the original. Would be a classic easy-ish multi back home, but for Bare Rock its merely "good". Okay easy black rock slabbing for most of it. The last 15m of the third pitch up beautiful bullet-hard orange rock with technical climbing is The Money, and saves this climb from mediocrity.

 
19 Tomorrows Dream - with Vladi Eileen Sport 100m Very Good Wed 10th Feb 2016
Repeat. Seconding Vladi on all 3 pitches. Climbed the original (gr18 Mixed) Pitch 2 this time. P1 and P2 are okay (I think the harder bolted version of P2 is better), but P3 is still one of the best easy-grade pitches of any multi I've been on in Australia, and worth climbing up to in its own right.

 
19 Tomorrows Dream Sport 100m Very Good Sat 16th Apr 2016
Repeat. Lead Pitches 1 and 2 this time (both clean), and seconded the fully bolted variant 2nd pitch (clean). Had all the fun of hauling 20kgs of bolting gear up this one to get my ropes in position for developing a new line. Still enjoyable, though easy.

 
19 Tomorrows Dream - with Jared Anderson Sport 100m Very Good Sat 23rd Apr 2022
Clean Repeat. Great way to shake out the bare rock cobwebs. A worthwhile easy multi!

 
19 Tomorrows Dream Sport 100m Very Good Mon 18th Apr 2016
Repeat. Seconding Daniel with about 20kgs of gear in a backback to get to the belay at the end of Pitch 1, so I could Jumaar up my fixed rope and continue bolting my new route.

 
18 Tomorrows Dream
1 16 30m
2 18 20m
Sport 50m Very Good Sat 31st Mar 2018
FS attempt with the predominant aim to FS the top (3rd - gr19) pitch, but got a bit rattled by a bunch of loose blocks on P2, and with my head space out-of-check, decided to bail. The end of P1 was bloody gripping in the circumstances, as was the traverse on P2, though neither were -technically- hard, they were insecure enough to be engaging.

 
26 Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts - with Heath Black Sport 180m Mega Classic Fri 23rd Mar 2018
Repeat attempt (sort of). Pitches 3-6 with Neil, with all manner of crazy weather. P3 - Fell off a few times at the slab crux in the rain before I stopped trying to follow Neil's chalk, and climbed the line of the bolts (at grade 21). Short and tough for a slab. P4 - 2nd Clean. Gripping on 2nd, but still a great pitch. My desire to climb this section of rock was what actually motivated me to start developing this entire multi! Hard techo traverse under a cramped roof, an engaging roof turn, and a long, pleasant, aesthetically appealing slab above. P5 - 2nd Unclean. I'd forgotten how hard (and sequency) this roof pitch is. Managed the first half of it clean on 2nd taking the draws off, but the two main cruxes took me a bunch of falls to remember. Super-duper boulder. P6 - Dog. After Neil bailed. I went up to finish the pitch. Clean to the crux, then a bunch of falls at the crux before I worked it out, then clean to the top. A brilliant, beautiful pitch of powerful climbing up a BLACK STREAK!

 
24 Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts - PROJECT PAUL - with Gerry Narkowicz Sport 180m Mega Classic Sat 30th Apr 2016
Pitches 1 - 4 only... We were rained off before we could push this any higher.

P1 & P2 (gr16 and gr24) - FLASH 1st Ascent! Climbed as a giant 50m pitch from the ground. Gerry kindly donated P2 to me for the FA. Awesome face moves, to outrageous moves to turn the roof.

P3 (21) - 2nd shot. Short, hard, slightly contrived slab.

P4 (23) - 1st shot placing draws. Really good. Classic in its own right. Hard, improbable traverse. Funky moves to turn the lip, then fun slabbing. Great rock.

 
12 Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts - PROJECT PAUL - with Jason McCarthy Sport 180m Mega Classic Wed 4th May 2016
Pitch 8 (the exit pitch) with 15kgs of gear in a pack on my back. The bestest climbing EVAAAAH! Actually, it's hardly memorable, and somewhat friable, but its a grade nothing exit pitch, and not unpleasant for grade nothing climbing.

 
26 Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts - PROJECT PAUL - with Jason McCarthy Sport 180m Mega Classic Thu 5th May 2016
Pitch 6 goes down! 4th shot today (6th total). Real boulder-endurance required with the hardest move right at the end of the sequence, and pumpy steepness to the top. My solution for the tick was skipping the 5th bolt, and not stopping for a single shake, or a drop of chalk. Just Go Go Go! I'm really not sure whether this is 25 or 26, so I've graded it on a comparison with the only similar climb at Bare Rock (Bad to the Bone at The Boneyard), and based on the fact that it'll feel every bit 26 when you get to this pitch from the ground. If someone wants to downgrade it, I won't object.

 
26 Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts - PROJECT PAUL Sport 180m Mega Classic Sun 15th May 2016
Pitch 5, the outrageous Roof Pitch goes down! 3rd shot today, 5th total. Proper arctic in the semi-hanging belay, with high winds, rain squalls and sleet blasting us. On the tick, I was so pumped that I had to improvise the final moves across the void because I was too pumped to climb it in the manner I'd been practicing, and only JUST stuck it. Short, but ridiculously slopey, with crazy moves and body positions to make the LACK of holds work for you.

 
24 Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts Sport 180m Mega Classic Fri 20th May 2016
Pitch 7 (the outrageous stemming pitch) goes down, and with it the entire multipitch goes free. First Ascent done and dusted... Now to bust out the entire multi totally free in a single push... any volunteers?

I also repeated Pitches 5 & 6 (I've voluntarily downgraded P6... though it'll still be "bloody tough 25") today for some photos.

 
21 Yesterday's Hero Sport 45m Very Good Mon 12th Mar 2018
Clean repeat. Just a brilliant long pitch of Bare Rock slabbing, with a few rooflets to negotiate. Hard to imagine that it is one of the newer routes here, as it's super-obvious, and proper quality.

 
21 Yesterday's Hero - with Heath Black Sport 45m Very Good Fri 23rd Mar 2018
Another lap. This time seconding Neil (clean) in rather wet conditions. The weather didn't detract too much, despite it being a techo slab. Long.

 
21 Yesterday's Hero Sport 45m Very Good Sat 30th Apr 2016
Flash, about 5min after the First Ascent. A really good, sustained and varied technical slab, with 3 moves that I wasn't sure I'd get through without a slip. Harder if you're short.

 

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