Ascents as various tick types as sport by Paul Frothy Thomson

What a journey! I've wanted to do this for years (we've all seen that photo of Greg Child on the roof cut-loose and mantle), especially because I've never heard of anyone ever doing it (even asking many of the local legends). If it ever gets rebolted and a bit of TLC, this would be a genuine multipitch classic!

I linked P1 and P2 into a giant 40m Onsight, then set up an improvised belay just below the roof (using 2 bolts and a #1 cam) so I could reduce the roof and mantle to a manageable boulder problem. These pitches are beautiful, sustained face climbing on great rock. P2 in particular follows a super-cool vague-flake thing with tricky feet, and finishes with an old-school "padding" traverse.

Ticking the roof and mantle took me a bunch of shots (initially cause I was using totally wack beta) and at one point involved such a massive sideways fall that I broke a biner. Once I sorted my beta and rested up, it went down surprisingly easy. I'd probably call the mantle a V3?

Pitch three is quite easy, but has a proper gripping traverse at the grade. I'm glad I didn't fall off.

Linked Pitches 1 and 2 cause I couldn't be bothered to rebelay... Not recommended (the rope drag was terrible!). P1 would be about gr21, but for a 2m V4/V5 sequence. I wouldn't say I worked out the crux in question, but I also didn't really try. Fun enough, but not one of the better aretes here. P2 had some cool climbing at the start, but was crazy runout (6 bolts in 25m!) I don't think I'll be back.

Wild! Actually thought we were climbing a totally different route... it seemed kinda hard (considering we were expecting gr23 ).

Totally worthwile, and very much "of the era". Old school, weird bits of necessary gear, antique bash-in carrots in hideous locations... but still awesome.

Linked the first 2 pitches together.

Climbed this as a giant 50m pitch from the ground as well. This was by far the better of the 2 routes here, with better rock and climbing on every pitch. P3 might be the best pitch of the day!

P1 was a great sustained burly quest.

Fell off 2 bolts from the top of P2 on the onsight -got a bit lost from the bolt positioning and ended up in no man's land.

P3 was awesome rock and "oozy" style climbing.

My unchalked onsight of P2 ended at the 3rd last bolt (and the last real move) when I finally made a footwork mistake, with all the hardest climbing in the bag . Despite being aesthetically ugly, the moves on both pitches are brilliant, and I had to pull out every slab-climbing trick in the book on the onsight effort of P2. It was dissappointing to drop the ball right at the try-line, but it wasn't absent a whole-hearted effort -I tried hard.

Linked both pitches from the ground with minimum rope drag.

The start of P1 is rather nails, but the initial moves its only about gr21 to the top.

P1 only. Quite good, long, varied and technical the whole way. One of the best routes of the day.

P1 only. Long, interesting, wandery climbing, but guarded by a poxy start, and with quite fragile rock. Would be good if done solely as an access pitch to the routes above, and not as a route in and of itself.

Utterly stoked. First ONSIGHT 26! The first half is 23/24 roof crack climbing through 2.5 roofs with hard thin powerful moves to turn the lips. The upper half is steep technical tufa-ing with tricky feet that required me to draw on everything I've learned in 4.5 weeks in spain to get through. At one point I was too tired to use the crucial clips and unable to clip, so with a monster runout I committed to a fully fledged dyno to what I thought was a jug it was!). I gave this EVERYTHING!

Only the 1st 3 pitches (too wet today for a big multi) Similar to Black Fire (maybe a bit less fragile) but with utterly abysmal bolting. Climbed P1 and P2 as a giant 60m pitch. Rob then moved the belay to the end of the easy P1, and I continued up P3 (to make another 60m pitch) before rapping. P1 is a slightly loose, super runout access doddle. P2 is a rather hard, technical slab. P3 is an enjoyable steep roof wander. I broke a hold off P3 2m off belay on easy ground and fell back to the belay

The climbing is upper echelon "Very Good", but the bolting is so unceasingly garbage that I can't give this better than "Good".

P2 was quite sustained, with consistently rad moves up the arete (and a funky gritstone finale) but seemed rather easy at the grade (though I can see it being nails if you're short). Regardless, I was pretty stoked to onsight it in good style.

The crux of the day were the moves to the 2nd bolt on P3, which was a solid V4 for me. I'm wondering if the recent storms have caused the block you start on to slide down the ledge, or whether perhaps there used to be a cairn there? I'm keen to hear others' opinions who repeat this after me.

Most pitches were good. The crazy roof on P5 was super unlikely, and the spine chiller traverse was great!

Regarding my criticism of the bolting:

• Runouts with near constant ledgefall potential.

• Terrible bolt placements -over-recessed (biner snappers) and constantly out of reach even at my height.

• Irrational belay stances -Bolts too high, or far too low, or a hanging belay instead of on a big ledge?

Prospective multipitch new routers should climb this if only to learn what not to do.

Straightforward super-duper thin climbing. A bit sandy, with some glued on holds that you really don't need. Really contrived to avoid stemming. Not QUITE the Mikl classic, in my opinion. Maybe 24?

Pitch 1 (23) only. Great! Climbs an obvious feature, getting harder all the way to the anchors. The last 5m or so up the flake is quite challenging, and it was great to score the onsight.

Awesome. First 25 onsight. Sustained and varied, with hard moves between good stances and a super-tricky thin finale which was seeping for me. The opening tufa is 3-dimensional polished fun. Classic!

Funky! Probably soft (though it might be possible to do a hilariously contrived sequence past the roof, though I could touch the bolt and hold the slightly better holds out left). The starting flowstone slab (which was still floing from the recent rain) is engaging techy slabbing. Then steep pocket bouldering to the crux roof, lip turn and headwall. I really enjoyed it.

A climb in 3 sections... crazy steep start with big moves on good holds to a rest; shorter, less-steep and less juggy middle-section to another rest; And a final face-climbing headwall with tricky, improbable moves on not-so-good holds to the anchor. The upper section makes this climb! The anchor (which is actually for another climb to the left) needs to be moved about 1m right.

Awesome! With traffic it would be classic. About a 1/2 grade harder than Innocent Fortune. After the initial boulder problem, the angle eases, but the climbing is still quite sustained all the way to the anchors. Lots of very thin moves with tricky feet between good rest stances. So many sidepulls, pockets and underclings. Another LONG route. I enjoyed this very much.

As close to perfect as I could want a route in this style (and in south-west sydney) to be. Only the "accelerated erosion" robs it of my megaclassic status. Sustained, intense, pumpy, technical, involved and on great quality and aesthetically pleasing rock. Need more adjectives to sell the quality of this climb?

Pitch 3 (24) only. An exciting onsight with no chalk on anything. Mostly this pitch is sustained thin pumping at hard 22. However, this climb harbours a seriously tricky crux featuring a desperately long reach off a 1/4 mono-crimp. The finish up the steep, groovy stemming feature is pretty cool when hanging out at the top of the majestic Bentrovato wall.

Onsight P1 as part of an onsight attempt on the whole route as 1 giant pitch. P1 on its own is great climbing on great rock, but far too contrived and too much of an eliminate to ever be a true 3-star classic. Disappointing considering its rep. Rad crack and flake features with thin face in between.

I was going to give this Very Good (and it probably is climbing-wise if you finish up Exile or Poggio), but the mess of bolts at the top of this to force a 3m contrived new finish just pisses me off.

The moves until the 2nd last bolt (ie. where the debacle begins) are actually really good, quite sustained, and follow a vague line of least resistance. Onsighting all of that was hard work with all the crux-chalk washed off.

Brilliant! Super-sustained with so many moves that are puntable, but no true shutdown crux. The entire headwall is mega, but don't underestimate the slab (I came closest to falling off there). Probably hard for 24, but easy for 25? Substantially harder than its lefthand neighbour, but this is the real money of the crag.

A tad crunchy, but really pleasant moves. Seemed rather easy at the grade, but I have no idea how to grade anymore.

Cool! had to try pretty hard for a few moves, and thought I was off at the top for sure. Essentially: 3 boulder problems of increasing difficulty, separated by good stances. The middle boulder proved particularly tough and committing with a curious complete lack of chalk on it.

The finale is brilliant, and way easier than it looks despite some rather outrageous steepness. Exciting on the onsight with no chalk on the top half of this.

Probably only 24?

Full disclosure: not a true onsight, as a I broke a wet jug off on the headwall before I could actually clip the anchor. But, whatever.

Yiew!

Gets progressively harder all the way, and I had to delve deep into the bag of tricks to stick the top with no beta.

Not as good as the other routes here.

The logical line up the feature, even if its a nuisense to clean. I had to powerscream like a maniac for this one.

Super short, but fun, committing gritstone slap-arete. Exciting in the wet, with a few moments of real panic.

Had to work bloody hard to onsight this old-school style committing classic, and got rather noisy with no chalk on the top to guide the bouldery finale, but stoked to manage it. A porters pass wandery slab leads to steep cranking and some gripping runouts. Psyched! I got hit on the head by a falling icycle while climbing this!

Rather gnarly on the fingers for a warmup, and quite sustained. Techical face climbing on incipient seam-features.

Stoked with this one. 38m of slightly steep techy pocket pulling, with okay stances inbetween. I was on this for 40min for the onsight, and the real battle is in focusing for so long to put together the tricky sequences. My style to a Tee.

Cruxy start through some powerful moves via polished undercling pocket features and much spoogey sweat. Easier but tricky varied climbing afterwards with a unique array of moves.

Rad rad rad. Technicality and body-position climbing for the connoisseur. Slopers and tufas with nothing horizontal or positive for the most part, yet with 3-dimensional thinking it all comes together in flowing poetry.

Oodles of moderate steep tufa jugging, until suddenly it turns kicks it up a notch and becomes complex, 3D, and cryptic. Psyched to keep this one together.

A long, wandery, pumpy adventure with a great deal of movement between each bolt. A good challenge at EOD. The final slab moves almost spat me off!

Another great one on beautiful techo tufas and weirdo blobs. Sustained in general... but the finale is hard... I hung for 10min on "non holds" still on link to work it out! One of my favourites of this trip.

Briefly hard (I guess?) at the start, then a cruise to the top. Nice enough tufa climbing, I suppose, but immemorable really.

Continuous climbing up a steep, zig-zagging crack feature, with a funky bouldery finale where the crack ends. I was on this for a looooong time to score the onsight (no chalk on the final crux made it brutal to figure out).

Surprisingly good climbing, with one reachy sequence. Probably more 23, if I'm honest, but the climbing is enjoyable regardless of grade. The top (easy) section was wet, but it wasn't really a problem. Another worthy addition to the Binary.

Wow, this climb just gets progressively harder all the way to the anchors. The last 5m or so are very physically demanding. Awesome, desparate movement with a tricky crux finger-lock guarding the last moves to the anchors. Genuinely engaging climbing.

Good, but it's got nothing on Fashion next door (which I also thought was harder). Some extremely thin moves between pretty good stances, with reasonable criming to the anchors. The bottom few bolts are pretty bad.

Pretty cool, quite straightforward with no real "stopper" moves (though definately a few distinctly harder moves), but quite a few tricky moves throughout. I like tgmhe runouts on the top half to keep it spicy... for a shipley route.

Better than I expected. I didn't find the "one move wonder" everyone keeps talking about all that hard, I found the moves out left to turn the little rooflet much harder. A few tricky moves broken up by good stances. Nicely spaced bolts.

Stoked! The main headwall is sustained, pumpy thinness the whole way. Lots of small, techy, desperate moves on very average holds. A great route in iconic Blueys style.

Hard start and very hard finish. Definitely 24 for the onsight. The moves into the groove, then out onto the prow and into the hard crux to the anchors make this one memorable. Stoked to keep it together at the end, as I got lost on the final moves and it was a battle for place and clip the anchors. At least 2 rad no-hands rests on this one.

Unerringly sustained from the very first move to the last. Slightly-steep, technical thin face-climbing with a wide variety of moves. I was on this for a long time fighting for the onsight, and it was worth every second. Classic!

With Neil. Led P1, P3, and P5-P6 (linked). O/S all my pitches, and Clean 2nd on Neils. One of the best "harder" multis I've done in the Blueys. Generally great rock, no choss bands, minimal ironstone edge pulling, and 200+m of uninterrupted exposure. Great climbing on all pitches except the vegetated 10m exit pitch. Clean and mostly vegetation free. Quite runout on bash-in carrots (11 bolts in 45m gr24!) and each pitch is dangerously runout off the belay. With a face-lift, this would be CLASSIC!

2 laps. Climbed both pitches as a giant 45m pitch (with lots of loooong runners) for an Onsight warmup with almost no drag, and another lap seconding Neil (also clean). Somewhat inconsistent, with an enjoyable easy-ish traverse, some easy face climbing, a worryingly friable razor-thin lower crux, more nice face climbing, then a final 8m or so that just keeps getting harder until you top out. The final few metres are CRIMPY and PUNCHY through a bulge. Aesthetically pleasing. Like an adventure.

Great, fairly tricky face moves between tedious cave rests encompassing dubious rock. Still pretty happy with the onsight, as there wasnt a grain of chalk on this, and the two hard sections were quite sequency. Not as good as Transmission, but a bit easier.

Stoked! The best of the climbs on Supernaut face. A full grade harder than Supernaut, and 1/2 grade harder than Into the Void. Very sustained all the way to the top. Bouldery start, then some technical thiness, to a desparate roof-turn, to more technical, wandery thinness, to a steep water-polished technical bridging finale up an overhanging V-groove, with a final easy (but exposed) roof to turn. Memorable! Might be nails 24 for the ultimate dialed red-point attempt, but 25 for onsight.