Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex | ||||||
25 Hard | ★★ Being and Nothingness (2nd Edition) | 35m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Mister Bean | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. 2 Laps. Truth be told, I fell off the bulge-boulder below the arete on my first lap, but corrected it on the second. A mixed bag of quality, and the arete itself is really easy, but it was still fun enough. Pretty much every hard move is escapable if you stray from the bolts a bit.
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22 ~23 | ★★ Just Technical | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. 2 Laps for training. Damn I love this thing
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Rex Hunt's Love Child | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. This is just a really fun climb, and not too hard at the grade. Feeling good on the slow return-to-form after 5 months on the couch.
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Northern Walls | ||||||
25 | ★★★ The Terrible Truth About Time - with Heath Black | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Stacked! So many dropable moves the whole way up. A face-climbing connoisseur's delight! Seconding the First Ascent clean -I almost came unstuck when the FA decided to use a locked locking bina bolt-side at the hardest crux, resulting in some mid-crux desperation. A classic for sure.
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Thu 15th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ghidrah | ||||||
25 | ★★★ King Geedorah - with Match | 70m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Same-day TRS repeat (clean) to climb out. Dreaaaaaaaaaaaamy.
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Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point East Faces Subliminal Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Subliminated | 110m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Clean TRS lap for fitness. Probably prouder than the original Subliminal, but shares too much of the same climbing to usurp its classic status.
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Pindari | ||||||
23 | ★★★ The House of Meat | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. TRS. This was probably the best of the routes I did here today. I found the two cruxes on this kinda hard -though it might just be post-covid fatigue.
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22 | ★★ Much of a Muchness | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. TRS. Not much harder than This Sporting Life, really.
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21 | ★★ Rampaging Roy | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. TRS. A really cool steep section.
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20 | ★★★ This Sporting Life | 43m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. TRS for fitness after 2 weeks sick in bed. Pleasant face climbing on the 2nd pitch, with nice rock!
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Wed 5th Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
WeiĂmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Toni Schmid Gedenkwand | ||||||
9- | ★★★ Mambo Cavallero - with Simmo, Stephen Varney | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool feature, though not as proud as it looks from the ground. Given how much climbing it shares with its righthand neighbour, it wasn't substantially harder (maybe a grade, or so?) Last climb of the trip, and down to the wire, so no time for the proper red point, though its not any harder than the cheeky toppy.
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Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area | ||||||
22 ~23 | ★★ Just Technical â 2 attempts | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 Laps to warmup -the second with 10kgs of extra weight for training.
Still hard at the grade, but still super awesome for such a short route. Steep technical pocket cranking in an exposed position FTW. |
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Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Adventure Park Ecstasy | ||||||
24 |
★★★ On a String and a Prayer
4
Still hard at the grade! I was pretty psyched to get this done straight up, though it was by the skin of my teeth... that last sustained crimp section is tough!
5
24
Not too hard at the grade. A short pitch, but just awesome climbing from start to finish. The mono-crux is very unlikely, but bloody awesome. Pretty chuffed to punch it out without any real troubles.
6
Clean Repeat.
7
Clean Repeat. Even tired at the end of the day, this was hilariously fun | 140m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Coming back to try and clean up the pitches I didn't get clean last time.
Unfortunately, the ropes I brought weren't long enough to get to the belay below P3, so for now that pitch will have to remain un-sent. It was bloody hot out here today, but the route was still great. |
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Mon 9th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Malaita Wall Merl Wall | ||||||
24 ~24 |
★★ Merl
- with
Heath Black
1
lead by
Heath Black
| 70m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Seconding Niel to exit the crag. Second clean P1 and P2 -at least this gave me a chance to climb P1 clean (albeit on second, though taking off the bolt plates). At the end of the day, I was bloody tired, and this felt like hard work.
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Sun 18th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Falling Water Wall Lower Cliff | ||||||
22 | FA ★★★ Rookies of the Future - with Match | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Supporting Mitch on the First Ascent
An awesome, mid-length multi, with no boring bits, and nothing too hard. Might be one of the best multis in this grade range (I guess the competition would be routes like Saccharine Nightmare or Yak Banquet?). P2 was my favourite |
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Wed 19th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Adventure Park Ecstasy | ||||||
24 | ★★★ After Life - with Heath Black | 150m | ★★★ Classic | |||
All 4 pitches clean on second. Seconding Monty on the First Ascent. A bloody great line, where access is a cruise, and the first 3 pitches are all worth a full 3 stars. Great rock, great position, and quite sustained. Happy to have been a part of this process.
|
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Sat 8th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Swinging In The Rain - with Gerry Narkowicz | 20m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Haven't been on this in years, and I was pretty chuffed to have no real troubles with the crux on it. Just a bloody great route, Jenga!
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22 | ★★ La Niña - with Gerry Narkowicz | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Still a well-conceived quest around the face.
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Sat 8th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Sanction of the Victim - with Gerry Narkowicz, Simmo | 22m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. This has got to be one of the coolest steep sport routes at the grade, right?
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Fri 7th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Left | ||||||
20 | ★★ Kraut Pleaser - with Simmo, Gerry Narkowicz | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Just the right amount of warmup
|
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Thu 6th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
24 | ★★ Driven - with Gerry Narkowicz | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. My favourite of the mid-grade routes here. Always happy to chuck a lap.
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21 | ★★ Flash Flood - with Gerry Narkowicz | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. My favourite of the easy routes. Climbed this after up-climbing and down-climbing La Nina for a ~60m easy epic.
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22 | ★★ La Niña - with Gerry Narkowicz | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Downclimbed clean for some extra pump.
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21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years - with Gerry Narkowicz | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Cruisy and oozy.
|
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18 | ★ Please Dry - with Gerry Narkowicz | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Clean repeat. Good for what it is.
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Tue 4th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Bunny Bucket Buttress - with Gerry Narkowicz | 270m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Giving The Mullet himself the guided tour of the Blueys.
Still a great romp at the grade. |
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Mon 3rd Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Valley Farm | ||||||
23 22 | ★★ Street Legal - with Gerry Narkowicz, Stephen Varney | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat.
Sooooooo good! Gotto be one of the best, right? From the 3rd bolt up, this is all pure class. |
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Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
23 | ★★ Funky Venga Bus | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Cruised it this time. Great warm up.
|
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Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Sensory Overload - with Simmo | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Dreamy for a sport climb.
|
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Sat 1st Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
23 | ★★ Funky Venga Bus | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. It'd been quite a few months since I last did this, and I almost fell off today!
|
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26 25 | ★★★ Locus of Control | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
One the best here, for sure. Just bloody great pocket-oozing up the crux finale, followed by a burly, engaging crux. Rock is just unerringly cool! I did this with a "gentleman's sit" at a no-hands rest while it was still a project.
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Sat 3rd Sep 2022 - The Woolwash | ||||||
The Junkyard Cave | ||||||
23 | ★★ Early Bird - with Stephen Varney | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Been a long time since I've been on this one, and I was pretty happy just to punch it straight out, given the rather bouldery start (post hold-breakage). Quite good!
|
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24 22 | ★ Smack Crack - with Stephen Varney | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Basically, 3 mantles, to a no-hands rest, followed by an utterly brutal boulder problem that I'm calling 24. Not a good warmup!
|
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Sat 20th Aug 2022 - The Woolwash | ||||||
The Junkyard Cave | ||||||
24 | ★★★ The Junkyard Dog - with Stephen Varney, Tom Collins | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Fun fun fun!
|
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Mon 1st Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 | ★ Juice on the Loose - with Simmo | 12m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Draw retrieval lap. Still good steep fun.
|
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21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years - with Simmo | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seconding Simmo to get to the upper ledge.
|
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Sun 24th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass La La Land Area | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Legoland - with Heath Black | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Even running with water, this thing is bloody brilliant. So many cool features.
|
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Wed 13th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Thrustblock Area | ||||||
23 | ★★★ The Mind Boggles - with Will Vidler | 40m, 18 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Clean Repeat. Just the first ~30m (to the lower anchors) as a warmup. Even better than I remember! Damn, this has to be one of the best 3 23's in the Blueys! You know its good, when it's so cold I can't feel my fingers, but I'm still frothing the climb!
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Sat 9th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Kizashi - with Simmo | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean Repeat. One of my favourite 25's in the Blueys. Good training.
|
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23 | ★★ Reigning Steel - with Simmo | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Great warmup as always. OMG, the conditions were amazing!
|
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Fri 24th Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Teenage Buttress | ||||||
24 ~25 | ★★★ I Was a Teenager For the CIA - with Mattyj | 58m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Backlogging (lost ticks on TheCrag... again). Clean repeat. Seconding Matt on both pitches. Amazing climbing, but bloody hard at the grade!
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Wed 18th May 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
22 | ★★ Thai Virus - with Michael Moore, Will Vidler | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seconding Michael and Will! A few hard moves, but great climbing and pleasant rock.
|
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Sun 15th May 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
23 | ★★ The Never Believers - with Heath Black | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. I haven't been back on this years, which is weird, cause its loads of steep, juggy, thuggy fun!
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Thu 12th May 2022 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Neon God
1
22
25m
2
25
25m
| 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
TRS Clean both pitches. Good to get back on this years after I last did it, and repeat it without too much difficulty even sans chalk. P2 is quite sustained and continuous in its two halves, with very rad moves up an incipient series of seams. I enjoyed this way more today than I did last time.
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23 | ★★ The Holy Road | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
TRS clean. Surprisingly worthwhile, and not as contrived as I was expecting from some of the comments here (certainly no more contrived than Neon God P2). Challenging thin sequences between good stances. This didn't seem too hard in the style even absent chalk.
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Wed 11th May 2022 - Bare Rock | ||||||
The Block | ||||||
26 | ★★ Stiff Upper Cock | 12m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
TRS Clean 2nd shot. I wanted to give this a lap now that it's no longer a closed project, but absent belayer, TRS will have to do. I've given this little gem classic, because I just can't imagine 12m of climbing getting much better (Great rock, super sustained, complex, technical moves, a very obvious line... even the initial gr21 crack section was engaging with bombproof rock).
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Tue 3rd May 2022 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Boneyard | ||||||
23 | ★★ Fire in the sky - with Stephen Varney | 30m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Even after all these years and laps, this doesn't get any easier. Damn its sustained!
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Mon 2nd May 2022 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Boneyard | ||||||
23 | ★ Smoke on the Water - with Stephen Varney | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Totally worthwhile technical face climbing. This has cleaned up well over the years.
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Thu 28th Apr 2022 - Bruny Island | ||||||
Cloudy Bay Hidden Zawn Maelstrom Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ White Noise - with Michael Lehmann, Jared Anderson | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Seconding Michael. Yep, deserves the rep. Quality rock, classy climbing, very unlikely at the grade. A total joy to climb.
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Thu 28th Apr 2022 - Bruny Island | ||||||
Cloudy Bay Hidden Zawn Bull Pinnacle | ||||||
21 | ★★ Zugzwang - with Michael Lehmann | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seconding Michael. The rock is a bit crunchy, but the climbing is rad, insecure and gripping. The bottom half is the money, and seemed hard at the grade to me. Be sure to make the most of the arete through the crux.
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Tue 5th Apr 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
19 | ★★ Birthday Bolts - with Will Vidler | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Climbed to get to the upper ledge. Man, this has cleaned up really well from when I last did it.
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Sun 3rd Apr 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Seconding Gavin to get to the upper ledge.
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Sun 27th Mar 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Armistice - with Heath Black | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Kinda a retro-flash (thanks to Monty's draws, chalk, and perfect beta), but I didn't do the moves onto the headwall. If it ever stops raining, hopefully I'll improve the style by doing the last move, but regardless, it was a bloody great experience to have again (9 years after joining Monty on the first Ascent!)
Despite being a bit annoying to get to, this is certainly one of the best quality routes at Binary Cave. Crazy steep climbing in a rad position, with really interesting moves the whole way. |
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21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years - with Heath Black | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Seconding Monty to get to the upper tier.
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Wed 9th Mar 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years - with Michael Moore, Will Vidler, Nathan Kenny, Luke Yerbury, Matt King | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Seconding Willby to get to the half-way ledge. Has one move that you have to pull on.
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Wed 5th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
22 23 | ★★ Summer of Rain | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Almost fell off the top this time.
|
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Tue 4th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
22 23 | ★★ Summer of Rain | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Lapping.
|
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Mon 3rd Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
22 23 | ★★ Summer of Rain | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat - Warming up.
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Sun 2nd Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
22 23 | ★★ Summer of Rain | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat.
|
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Sat 1st Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
22 ~23 | ★ For the Fans and Non Believers | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
TRS clean before the route was bolted. Quite enjoyable right-leaning face climbing, with a surprisingly tricky start.
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Sat 27th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Left | ||||||
24 | ★ Fox Force Five - with Stephen Varney, Jared Tyerman | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. 2 bolts of surprisingly hard and sustained bouldering, then easier to the top. Shame the rock at the start is so average, because its great for the majority of it.
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22 | ★★ Shut the Gate - with Stephen Varney, Jared Tyerman | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. A rad ending, preceded by okay climbing.
|
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20 | ★★ Kraut Pleaser - with Jared Tyerman, Stephen Varney | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat - Good warmup, great rock.
|
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Sat 20th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
27 | ★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) - with Match, Gavin | 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
P1 Clean repeat. Great to retick this in only a day, and some less-than-ideal conditions. x3 laps to score the retick. Really fun technical power-endurance climbing.
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Sun 19th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Solomon Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ Skinless Chicken - with Heath Black | 27m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat, seconding Monty. It's been a long time since I've been on this, and I forgot how good it is. Probably the best moderately-graded arete in the Blueys, really.
|
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Mon 26th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Tank Top | ||||||
23 | ★★ Tic Tac Tok - with Jared Tyerman | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Great upper section.
|
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Sat 3rd Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass SSCC4 Area | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Bareback
- with
Heath Black
| 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The full gamut of emotions on this one. With not a drop of chalk on the crux pitch, I pushed and pushed on the onsight with every trick I had, only to eventually fall off between the last bolt and the anchor, in the final few moves (getting the wrong foot up on the arete).
Both pitches are brilliant in their own right (don't underestimate the 1st pitch, I fell off the first move as a warmup!), but it comes with some giant caveats that make it a mission to climb -not the least of which is the hideously positioned belay bolts, which necessitate a hanging belay, rather than just a semi-hanging belay with a few seconds of forethough as to their position. P2 is certainly one of the top 3 aretes in the Blueys, and reminds me of a more intense version of Teenager for the CIA. Certainly one of the most arete-y aretes in the mountains (and conveniently bolted, unlike Koyaan arete). |
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Fri 5th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point East Faces Subliminal Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Subliminal - with Magdalena de la Torre, Lucas C | 92m, 33 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Seconding Magui to exit the crag. My patented "15 minute no-resting" speed free lap. Easy climbing or not, its amazing how pumped you can get smashing out 65m without a pause.
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Sat 23rd Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Gateway, Doomsday & Fort Rock Doomsday Wall | ||||||
20 | One for the Old School - with Heath Black | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Seconding Monty. A fairly pleasant grey slab with a few proper techo slab moves. Enjoyable in the style.
|
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Sun 29th Nov 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Sanctum Emptor (Linkup) (Linkup - Sanction into Caveat Emptor) - with Tom Collins, Ludek Sykora, Martin Cankov | 35m, 19 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. The headwall on this is bloody brilliant steep, powerful climbing in an inspiriting position. Coming into it from Sanction just makes the whole affair scrumptious.
|
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Sun 18th Oct 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Departures (Upper) | ||||||
23 | ★★ Destined for Grayness - with Rob Medlicott | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Always brilliant for a short route.
|
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Sun 11th Oct 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Microdermabrasia
- with
Rob Medlicott
| 85m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Decided to do the full Multi (since its the only one I haven't done on this wall). As a "multi" its probably a 1-star experience (most of the value being from the first pitch), and I definitely don't recommend doing the "mantle top-out walkoff" nightmare.
P1 - Clean Repeat (originally onsight). P2 - 2nd shot. 1 move from the onsight! I tried so bloody hard. Not a drop of chalk on this thing. The last 5m before the ledge is extremely intense techo crimping, but otherwise its fairly easy. P3 - Clean Repeat (originally onsight) - Sections of good climbing, but lots of crap rock to degrade the experience. The crux on this is a proper hard reach. Would be interesting to see a shorty on it. |
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Sat 5th Sep 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
27 |
★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing)
- with
Jared Anderson
1
27
25m
2
26
20m
3
| 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
3 x Repeat laps as a part of the mega two-rope link project. Managed P1 clean on the 2nd lap even with the extra weight/screw-around of managing two ropes, but bungled the 1st crux of P2 on the link. Very draining. On an aborted 4th lap I could barely bolt-to-bolt the route, and then struggled to jumaar out afterwards.
|
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Sun 30th Aug 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
23 | ★★ Lulu - with Heath Black | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Seconding Monty at EOD. Better than I remember it, and surprisingly hard for an arete that looks comically easy. Very worthwhile.
|
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Mon 8th Jun 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Main Cliff | ||||||
24 |
★★ Butterflies and Hurricanes
- with
Heath Black
| 65m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried to climb this as a 70m pitch from the ground. Despite hideous rope drag, I finally fell off on the last hard move of the route. A rather ambitious effort considering its "untrafficked" nature. Dragged Monty up to the belay, and we both sent the top pitch in a more rational style. Quite good rock and climbing (especially on the second pitch), and brilliant exposure at the grade. Take a 0.4 cam for the top!
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Mon 8th Jun 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park The Rain Cave | ||||||
23 | ★★ Vascularity | 14m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. A great warmup, and a bloody great route. Never gets old
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Sun 31st May 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Bald Head Tiger Stripe Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Opportunistic Pathogen | 48m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second Clean. Seconding Neilio at EOD to exit the crag. Really quality climbing at the grade, probably the 2nd best route on the wall, all things considered? Hard start, then just sustained and interesting climbing on good holds to the tippy top.
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Sun 24th May 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Bald Head Tiger Stripe Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Lunge Cancer | 45m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd clean at EOD to exit the crag. A very hard start leads to easier (but still sustained) climbing with a few sneaky thin moves thrown in up top. Hard at the grade, as with everything else at this crag. Not as good as the other 24 as the rock quality isn't as high, and the climbing is more in the "painfully thin" rather than "technically hard" vein.
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Sun 24th May 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Bald Head Advanced Air Studio Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Comb Over | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd Clean. Much better than Advanced Air Studio in climbing and rock quality (though quite a fair bit harder and with less exposure). A long pitch that just keeps getting harder, with lots of technical thin moves up top. Probably rather sandbagged. Still 22 even for this part of the world, maybe even 23 by modern standards.
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Sun 17th May 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Bald Head Tiger Stripe Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ A Pill for your Vain Pain | 50m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd Clean at EOD to exit the crag. The route of the day for sure! Very sustained, unerringly thin, and probably the best rock I've seen on this wall. Probably entry-level 25 due to its relentlessness. Very complex moves. Really, the only negative is that the last 6m or so is not great rock.
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19 | ★★ Baldilicious | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second clean. At the grade, this is a pretty outrageous position and climbing up cool features. Rock isn't perfect, and access is a bit tricky now that the rap-tree has burned down, but for an easy route its worthy. Scoopy.
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Thu 14th May 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Thor Head | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Flexor and the Albatross | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Second clean. Seconding Neil to exit the crag after a day on this. Awesome, technical, sustained face/slab climbing, with a heart-breaker slab finish right when you're trashed.
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Wed 25th Mar 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Golden Giles | 70m, 21 | ★★ Very Good | |||
TRS. Clean repeat. Cruised this as a giant 70m pitch for a warmup. Makes a good warmup Fingery start pitch to a mega slightly steep face middle pitch with loads of cool moves. 70m just flies by!
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Wed 18th Mar 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
23 |
★★★ Microdermabrasia P1
1
23
30m
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Seconding Goshen rather than trying to clean the route on loweroff. Makes a great warmup, and is a proud line up an obvious feature.
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Sun 23rd Feb 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area | ||||||
22 ~23 | ★★ Just Technical - with Lucas C, Magdalena de la Torre | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat x 2. A bloody good warmup for the harder stuff, but quite intense! Just 15m of quality pocket-pulling.
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Sun 26th Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Teenage Buttress | ||||||
24 ~25 | ★★★ I Was a Teenager For the CIA | 58m | ★★★ Classic | |||
TRS warmup. Disgusting conditions, but still a great climb. Seemed harder than I remember, though that might just be the spooge-factor.
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Fri 30th Aug 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County The 39 Steps | ||||||
28 | ★★ Shimmering | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
TRS Cleanly as part of working the Direct Finish. Absolutely freaking nails. 100% 28 in my mind, and probably the hardest face climb I know of in the Blueys. Finished via the last bolt of Aesthetic Images to make it a bit harder.
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Sun 18th Aug 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Thor Head | ||||||
25 | ★★ Horse Meat Disco | 55m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean 2nd (TRS). Still had some energy left at the end of the day, so -absent a belayer- I decided to do 2 x laps on this (the 2nd one clean) for some training. A bloody brilliant route. Challenging at 25, but still easier than Raving Bull (despite this being my 4th day on!)
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Fri 4th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point East Faces Subliminal Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Subliminal - with Rob Medlicott | 92m, 33 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Another repeat, this time with Roberto... A speed-lap on Second to beat the approaching stormfront. Dreamy.
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Fri 28th Dec 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Atlantis | ||||||
25 | ★★ Herminator - with Heath Black | 25m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat, srconding Neil to escape the crag at the end of the day. We topped the route and walked off
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Mon 3rd Sep 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
22 | ★★ Lulu - with Emil Mandyczewsky | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seconding Emil. Excellent technical arĂȘte-and-face climbing in a nutty position, with a mixture of rock qualities. Maybe tough at the grade, it's hard to say? Worthy as a single pitch in its own right, though,
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Mon 6th Aug 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Bald Head Serendipitous Walls | ||||||
21 | ★★ Purkinje Arette - with Heath Black | 75m, 34 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Objectively this is pretty good (despite some crozzly rock), but by this time of day Neil and I were suffering in our aggressive shoes, and it was hard to fully appreciate it. P1 is a pleasant slab with an old-school vibe (like Barton's effort at The Wolgan) and a few feisty moves. P2 I a proud, slightly intimidating, unrelentingly techo arĂȘte which goes on forever and ever, all the way to the moon.
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Sat 26th May 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point East Faces Subliminal Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Subliminal | 92m, 33 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Another repeat, seconding Chris. A speed-ascent, no-resting, no chalking, no shaking, always climbing marathon which makes it quite the pumpy adventure. =)
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Wed 9th May 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Golden Giles | 70m, 21 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Top Rope Solo lap as a giant 60m pitch as a warmup in the sun. Today, the 2nd pitch felt harder than the first (I'd almost say 23 first pitch, 24 second pitch), but either way, it was enjoyable. Not a classic, but continuous engaging technical face climbing.
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Fri 23rd Mar 2018 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Main Face | ||||||
21 | ★★ Yesterday's Hero - with Heath Black | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another lap. This time seconding Neil (clean) in rather wet conditions. The weather didn't detract too much, despite it being a techo slab. Long.
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Wed 28th Feb 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Disco Non-Stop Party - with Will Vidler | 40m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Repeat. Clean on Second (following Will's successful ascent) removing draws. Finger-licking good arete climbing. Get on it!
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Sun 28th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Querilous Journey - with Heath Black | 40m | ★ Good | |||
2nding Neil. The climbing itself is okay, but I'm not a big fan of the grainy/crunchy rock. Slightly steep face climbing in a long pitch.
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Sun 21st Jan 2018 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area | ||||||
22 ~23 | ★★ Just Technical - with Rob Medlicott | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat, this time 2nding Rob. Short and punchy, with a particularly boulder finale. Unfortunately this type of rock is always rather grainy, but the pocketed-boulder at the top with tonnes of exposure justifies the effort and makes this totally worthwhile.
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Sat 20th Jan 2018 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Bayside Werner Burner Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ Werner Burner - with Rob Medlicott | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. This time seconding Rob. Enjoyable steep-ish climbing, though a touch contrived. Probably more 20 than 21, though.
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After chopping the original (crappy) start, re-jigging the bolts in the upper section, repairing a super key broken hold (that was forcing a weird "round the world" sequence, and meant the crux bolts were all in the wrong place), and developing a whole new (gr21) start, I needed to see if my efforts had borne fruit.
In short, this is now one of my favourite routes on the wall. I'd call it 2nd best after Life of Riley. Its rad that with a bit more route development experience, and a bit of time and effort, this route -that has always frustrated me for having a crappy lower half, and a good but poorly arranged upper half- is now one of my favourite sporty sport routes I've put up.
I really hope this gets more traffic now, because it deserves it.
Incidentally, the gr21 Bottom section (25m to the first anchor) is proper good climbing, and would happily stand next to such contemporaries at Cosmic County.