Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex | ||||||
25 Easy | ★★★ The Life of Riley | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
||||||
Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave | ||||||
22 | FA ★★ Sahelanthropus - with Greg Ducky, Philip Barker | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
FA. A "Lowers Mountains Classic" (with all the caveats that statement encompasses).
A climb of many components, but the technical finale is definitely a show stopper. No boring bits, that's for sure. |
||||||
Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence The Lost Woods | ||||||
18 Hard | FA ★ Korok Climb - with Philip Barker, Greg Ducky | 15m | ★ Good | |||
First Ascent. Climbed ground-up before it was cleaned/brushed, and it felt like gr21... But after a good session to clean it, it's settled at 18.
An interesting short slab, on mostly good rock, marred only by its escapability. |
||||||
Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
25 | ★★ Little Boyce Room — 2 attempts | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great! Not too hard at the grade, but bloody awesome. The low crux is just fun, but everything above it is mega at about gr23. Great rock, and pretty sustained. Might be my favourite route here.
|
||||||
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
25 | ★★ Boyce Light Up | 30m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd shot. I only carried 2 draws through the crux, so climbed the top 20m clipping only 2 bolts.
A funky (but incongruous) start crux leads to a magnificient gr21ish headwall up cool grooves and scoops. |
||||||
Thu 13th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
24 | FA ★★ Bad Boyce Bad Boyce | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Coukd be hard at the grade. Hilarious roof jugging, to gnarly lip-turn traversing. Loooong.
|
||||||
Fri 30th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
26 | ★★ Big Boyce Blouse — 3 attempts | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3rd shot over 2 visits, placing draws. Other than the nails direct start, this is about gr22ish to the roof boulder. The roof boulder itself is gnarly sequence, with a pumpy, committing finish.
|
||||||
Wed 5th Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Toni Schmid Gedenkwand | ||||||
7+ | ★ Prahler - with Simmo, Stephen Varney | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell off trying to get the 2nd draw on (the crux of the route!). A cool, but gnarly opening boulder, then pleasant easy bridging.
|
||||||
Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Bärenschluchtwände Bärenschluchtwände | ||||||
7 | ★ Monis Blackout - with Simmo, Stephen Varney | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
The start was running with water, and I slipped off it. Then, from the ground to the top. I liked the runout headwall, but not much else about this route.
|
||||||
Tue 28th Mar 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Massone Settore D | ||||||
6c to 6c+ ~6c+ | ★★ Ottopromille - with Simmo, Stephen Varney | 20m | Average | |||
A nails sequence at the roof-turn. At this stage of tiredness, im not even sure why I'm roping up a anymore.
|
||||||
Sun 26th Mar 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Massone Settore E | ||||||
6c+ | Alpen Liebe - with Simmo | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
One fall on the nails boulder problem (much harder than the posted grade) off the first ledge. Otherwise, onsight.
Radical steepness via features and kinda thrutchy climbing. Has an old-school vibe. |
||||||
Sat 19th Nov 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags The Platform | ||||||
24 | ★★ Hot Hands | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fell off the last move of the opening boulder on the onsight (with no chalk on the sneaky sneaky holds, and in the full summer sun, I ended up in no man's land trying to rock over an invisible footer on no holds). Came down, and sent 2nd shot, onsighting from the 3rd bolt up.
Basically a gr24 thin and bouldery start into gr20 climbing with enjoyable, cruisy moves. Could use more cleaning. |
||||||
Sat 1st Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
23 | FA ★★ Deflated/Reinstated | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First ascent of the "reinstated" version. Tonnes of fun, and great rock the whole way. technical, airy, and unlikely. The faff of the traverse-y start is worth it when the climbing is this good.
|
||||||
Sun 7th Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Lower | ||||||
23 | ★★ St Valentine's Day Massacre - with Heath Black | 55m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell off the gnarly start a few times before I sussed it (if you told me it was gr25, I wouldn't argue) then punched out the route. Proper classic old school climbing on amazing rock. Super improbable techo moves.
Unfortunately, the rebolt done on this is worse than just climbing on the original carrots (not joking). Bring bolt plates! |
||||||
Mon 1st Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
24 ~25 | FA ★ Chip and Jinx's Canine Adventures in Conveyancing - with Simmo | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. More funky steep stuff. Though the crux is clipping the anchor, it's less "Fist Full of Steel" and more Coolum-esque. Probably the easiest route on the upper ledge.
|
||||||
Sat 9th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ San Pornando - with Simmo | 38m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Why doesn't this get done more? It's been an age since I last ticked it, and was a joy to climb straight-up today with no real problems, despite it being completely untrafficked. Rock the entire way was bomber, and even the grey-section was so clean you could eat off it.
|
||||||
23 28 | ★★★ Marxism - with Simmo | 62m, 22 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. One of my favourite 23's in the mountains. An excellent 2nd warmup.
|
||||||
Sun 26th Jun 2022 - South Pacific | ||||||
Half Baked Wall | ||||||
24 | FA ★★ When There Are Nine - with Viona Young | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. 2nd shot. Thanks Viona for letting me free this awesome face route!
Cruisy slabbing to a good stance at the 2nd last bolt, then its all on to the finish, with very technical climbing following a weird feature up-and-right -footwork was key! Great fun, and excellent vision from Viona! |
||||||
Sun 26th Jun 2022 - South Pacific | ||||||
Descent Gully - Left Side | ||||||
24 | ★★★ I Wanna Be a Cowboy - with Viona Young | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Can't claim the onsight, cause I'd done the start on Bee's Knees
The crux is very much the gnarly start boulder. The upper bit through the roof is fun, and not too hard, but the bolting is kinda ledge-fall-y. Not as choss as it looks, either. |
||||||
Wed 1st Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
26 | FA ★★ The Kangaroolity of Women - with Matt King | 15m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Sweet! Finally got it done despite the proper arctic conditions! Having fallen off the move to match the lip of the roof 5 times, it was an awesome feeling to keep it all together for the send.
A bit sharp, sure, but its a lot of time climbing completely horizontal at a relatively tame grade. And the boulder to gain the lip is all time rad. |
||||||
Wed 25th May 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 | FA ★ Juice on the Loose - with Glen Thomson | 12m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. More hilarious steep jugging. After you leave the no-hands rest 5 bolts up, its all campus-y action to the end. Enjoy the mushroom jug!
I'd have given this 24, but the last move to the lip seems proper roof bouldering to me? Let me know if it should be downgraded. |
||||||
Wed 18th May 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
24 | FA ★ Is it About a Bicycle? - with Will Vidler, Michael Moore | 10m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. This ended up taking the better part of two full days of effort to tick, but the moment that we had good conditions, it went down smoooooooooothe.
Short and punchy. This is the sort of steep, juggy, campus-y roof climb where you just giggle like a mad chook the whole way. |
||||||
Wed 11th May 2022 - Bare Rock | ||||||
The Block | ||||||
15 | Block O'Clock | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. Great way to access the top of the boulder. Has cleaned up nicely since last time I did it, and is now good insecure fun.
|
||||||
Thu 5th May 2022 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Easter Rising Face | ||||||
27 M1 | FA ★★ Masked Lapwing - with Jared Anderson, Stephen Varney | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5 days of effort in total to free both pitches. It takes a lot for exposure to scare me, but this route managed it. Super obscure, but stunning.
Wild, gymnastic traversing, with huge falls into space. I got in the habit of climbing this with my grigri pre-set just behind my knot, and my Jumaar ready for rapid deployment. On one of my laps on P2 I took a really bad fall, to the point I thought I'd broken my foot. I managed the Send on my final real shot of the trip. The Aid move on P1 probably goes free if you've a bigger standing reach than me. The one on P2 definitely goes free, but it adds at least 3 more grades to the pitch. Feel free to go for the true FFA! |
||||||
Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Colliery Far North Cliffs The Shark's Fin | ||||||
23 | ★★ Dorsal Fin - with Heath Black | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Awesome to get back on this almost 10 years after I first put it up, and not be dissappointed with the route or my equipping.
Also rather psyched to just punch it out placing draws despite it being obviously untrafficked, cause it's quite hard to read and rather committing. Genuinely good arete climbing, and something quite different to other aretes in this grade range in the Blueys. |
||||||
Sat 15th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Underworld | ||||||
25 | ★ Odyssey - with Matt Pascoe | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First shot placing draws (with no chalk on the route, and some rather wet holds) but since where this branches from River Styx is probably only gr23, it's certainly not a retro-flash
A rad juggy, traverse-y odyssey. If you're going to finish via any other route than River Styx, you might as well keep on trucking left. Much better than Tomb Raider. |
||||||
Sat 1st Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
25 | FA ★★ Mum's the Word | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The only route on the upper tier. After the haaaaard start, this is great steep red-river slimper pulling with a bit of air below you.
|
||||||
25 | FA ★★ Secret Squirrel | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot, sent the same day I bolted it. For the Send, I skipped the last bolt -something I still do on repeat laps. Really sustained, and you always seem to arrive at the crux way more pumped than you want to be.
|
||||||
26 | FA ★★ The Cabal | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
4th shot FA in a day. On my 3rd shot I bungled the moves above the crux! Mostly fairly moderate, but the crux is hard, morpho, knee-destroying heel-hooking.
|
||||||
25 | FA ★★ Cloak and Dagger (Linkup) | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lots of climbing, and much pump -I almost fell off the top of Summer of Rain. Somewhat faffy given the traverse, but the climbing is an awesome journey at the grade.
|
||||||
27 | FA ★★★ Covid Conspiracy Capers | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
4 days of effort, but proper chuffed with the result. 3 distinct cruxes, but no true rest inbetween. I fell off the final move to the anchors 3 times on link. Slab style, though on a slightly steep wall, makes "rockovers" a dynamic affair.
|
||||||
Sat 28th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Bald Head Serendipitous Walls | ||||||
24 | ★★★ This Coming Fall - with Heath Black, Ben Sanford, Stephen Varney | 20 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First shot today (though I blew my onsight a few years ago). Great rock for the bottom half up a ruddy red steepish face, and engaging runout arete climbing at the top. Bolts up high are very misleading.
|
||||||
Wed 25th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Tank Top | ||||||
26 | FA ★★ Approaching Rock Bottom | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
1st redpoint burn today, 5th shot total. I was adament that this was gr27 up until the Send, which was surprisingly uneventful -though given my aching finger joints and muscles a day later, I must've been trying pretty hard.
Three boulder problems separated by good rests, with the middle one being the hardest and most radical. |
||||||
Sat 24th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Atlantis | ||||||
24 | ★★ Hoderlump - with Jason McCarthy, Jenna Brady, Will Vidler | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Retro-flash. Not too hard at the grade, but great climbing and mostly good rock. Quite technical.
|
||||||
Sat 10th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Golden Giles - with Jared Tyerman, Matt King, Nikita Miltiadou | 70m, 21 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat as a giant pitch for an EOD warm-down. Was kinda like onsighting with no chalk on the route, its length rendering individual moves unmemorable, and the time since I last lapped it.
Definitely only 24 -even as a giant 60m pitch- and generally pretty chilled slab/face climbing with lots of stances, and a few exciting (but safe) runouts. Why does no one climb this? |
||||||
Sat 15th May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zap Crag Lower Zap | ||||||
25 | ★★★ High Tension - with Stephen Varney | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Despite proper alpine weather, this made a surprisingly good warmup due to the copious rests (I found 6) no-handers. As this route/crag hadn't seen any traffic in quite a while, it was pleasant to climb this with surprisingly minimal chalk on it. Fun thugging.
|
||||||
23 | ★ Static Discharge - with Stephen Varney | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Very traddy steepish stemming, with a short crux that seems hard on the "onsight" but is actually pretty easy at the grade.
|
||||||
Sun 28th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area The Freezer | ||||||
24 | ★★ Meat Mallet - with Heath Black, Match | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean Repeat. A fairly sustained thin middle section, though not too hard at the grade. The first third of this is rather ugly.
|
||||||
Sat 5th Dec 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Dragon's Egg - with Stephen Varney | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat (this time placing draws). I haven't been back on this since I ticked it years ago, and fortunately it's as good as I remember. Moderate slabbing, to a rather sustained finale with quite terrible feet.
|
||||||
Sat 21st Nov 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
24 | ★ Caveat Emptor - with Tom Collins | 22m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Clean repeat, this time placing draws. Smashed this out straight-up, but I genuinely do not like this pitch. Seriously, if going for the Caveat Emptor headwall, start up Sanction of the Victim, please!
|
||||||
26 | ★★★ Terra Nullius Extension - with Tom Collins | 35m, 19 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat, this time placing draws! Great to retro-flash this 4 years after I was last on it, especially with no chalk on the headwall! The slabby start is okay, but damn the steep, intimidating arete is intense pleasure.
|
||||||
Sat 14th Nov 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ The Polar Opposite Extension - with Tom Collins | 33m, 19 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat, this time placing draws. The entire extension to this is excellent, sustained, technical steep climbing, with an engaging finale. More "rests" than Sanction of the Victim, but more complex cruxes.
|
||||||
Sat 17th Oct 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
28 | FA ★★★ One Somebody (Linkup) - with Josh Mackenzie, Jared Anderson | 80m, 21 | ★★★ Classic | |||
About bloody time. 2nd redpoint burn of the day, scrapping the whole way up. Was basically "mid fall" on the entire top crux, but just kept lunging and somehow got there.
Objectively this route is gr28 (hence its actual grade I've put on it on TheCrag) but my subjective experience (encompassing all the ropecraft factors) was gr29. Similar composition to Hairline, but 2.5x longer, but the 2-rope faff and all the other admin factors make it a proper mission to climb. |
||||||
Sun 30th Aug 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
27 |
FA
★★ Dialectic - Best Forgotten Art
- with
Heath Black, Tom Collins, Josh Norris
1
27
30m
2
26
40m
| 70m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Both pitches are rather hard. The moves on P1 are radical powerful, strenuous, dynamic face climbing in a wild position, with a heart-breaker final go-again dyno. I needed proper arctic conditions to send it.
P1 took me 3 days this season (and at least 3 days last season) to free. P2 took me 2 shots today (and 1 shot previously). |
||||||
Sun 16th Aug 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Tank Top | ||||||
26 | FA ★★ Original Skin - with Heath Black | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd shot. Hard to grade, either 25 or 26 (but substantially harder if you're sort). More sustained than the other routes on this wall, with 3 distinct (and varied) cruxes, but also the shortest route here. Sections of great rock.
|
||||||
Wed 15th Jul 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
27 | FA ★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing) - with Will Vidler, Jared Anderson, Heath Black | 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome steepness of beautiful rock, but wandery and seriously rope-draggy (hence splitting the first 2 pitches). A real resistance route in an "out there" (high admin) environment. I'm looking forward to the challenge of linking the first 2 pitches, though it will necessitate climbing the route on 2 ropes. Thanks to my belay posse for the days out here on this thing.
|
||||||
Sun 3rd May 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Fire Wall | ||||||
26 | FA ★★ Fire Wall | 210m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Done in good style: in a single push from the ground up, freeing as we went. Though the day was proper arctic, and this thing gets no sun, the frigid conditions were crucial to sending the first pitch (which is extremely sustained face climbing, with a few gnarly boulders - I had to power-scream my way up it for the Send).
Pitch 2 is the money, with a rad exposed bouldery start, then oodles of chugging along up funky features with some patches of bestest rock evah. Pitch 3 is weird giant tufa blob jugging, but the last few metres aren't great. P4 is a hard slab. P5 is awesomely technical face climbing that goes on forever (and has a very baffling crux). P6 is harder than it looks (due to having no footers at the grade), and I only just kept it together for the send at the end of the day. This would be a proper "3-star classic" multipitch (for the Blueys) but is marred only by Pitch 4 being pretty average, and the fact the most of it is on a semi-detached pillar means only the first 3 pitches feel exposed. It'll probably never get repeated, but I regard it as worthwhile. Freed Pitches 1, 2, and 3 on lead. Seconded (clean) Pitches 4, 5 and 6. |
||||||
Mon 27th Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Jaqueline Hyde - with Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Geoff Johnston-Hall, Will Monks, Jason | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat x 2. Still good even in 1 million percent humidity.
|
||||||
Mon 27th Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall | ||||||
20 20 to 21 | ★ Ernest Lady (linkup) - with Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Geoff Johnston-Hall, Will Monks, Jason | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. Not sure why I decided to do this as a warmup, it doesn't really get you warm.
|
||||||
Wed 22nd Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Grape Hour - with Ben Jenga | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. A much better warmup. Still a great route after all these years, but not hard at the grade.
|
||||||
Sat 18th Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Split Wave - with Heath Black | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Also short but quite entertaining.
|
||||||
Wed 15th Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Colosseum | ||||||
23 |
FA
★★ Ant Acid
- with
Heath Black, Emil Mandyczewsky
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Joining Neil on the First Ascent. A worthy 2-stars if you do it as a giant pitch (bring a 70m rope for the 35m lower-off). A nice techo steep face start, and a surprisingly tricky slab/arete finale.
|
||||||
Sat 11th Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Ratcat - with Heath Black | 14m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat, this time placing draws. Kinda cruised this today, despite sub-optimal conditions. Possibly one of the best routes at the Glen, and much more sustained than its cruxy neighbours. The finale felt easy today.
|
||||||
Sun 24th Nov 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown | ||||||
28 | FA ★★★ Babylon - with Heath Black, Jared Anderson | 70m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
FFA. Backlogging the FA. Sent this packing on my last possible shot before heading off to America, thanks muchly to the entourage of belayers who hung out on the ledge with me throughout this process. Old school, wandery, super-thin, reachy face-climbing which -as a full package- is a tonne of effort, but rewarding in the end. I'd argue that this is one of the best examples of this particular style in the Blueys, but theres a chance I'm just a liiiiiiiiiiitle bit biased. Maybe avoid it if its windy, though.
|
||||||
Sat 31st Aug 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Chasing Amy Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Chasing Amy - with Will Vidler | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Damn good slabbing, a few gnarly moves at the grade.
|
||||||
Sat 8th Jun 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Flirting With the Spanish Dancer - with Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Jason | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Clean Repeat. Okay climbing, but just a single hard move. Perhaps not as good as other routes on this wall.
|
||||||
Sun 2nd Jun 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ These Apples Must Be Jen's - with Harry Kadi, Will Vidler | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Psyched for the EOD retro-flash placing draws despite being utterly trashed. The climbing on this is brilliant and quite sustained, the bolting is pretty average, and so many key holds creak and move and aren't long for this world. Seriously, people, a bit of 101 squeezed behind a flake is only a solution for about 5 years.
|
||||||
Sun 26th May 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Bottom Floor | ||||||
26 | FA ★★★ Sarlacc - with Heath Black | 90m | ★★★ Classic | |||
FFA. Arguably one of the 2 or 3 best "short hard-ish multis" in the Blueys. P2 is mega classic, P3 is mega classic, and I'm properly stoked to have been able to help put this last pitch to rest. Intense, bouldery start leading to incredibly sustained technical, pumpy climbing up beautiful rock. I had to get noisy to link this one on my last possible attempt. Perfect conditions made a big difference
|
||||||
Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Atlantis | ||||||
23 | ★ Strutt Your Funky Stuff - with Stephen Varney | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Fell off the first move on the onsight. Didn't find the key holds (with no chalk on anything... obviously ). The start boulder is crimpy sharpness, but the finale is steep interesting on great rock. Probably not as good as linking Who the Fuck is Alice? into the anchors of this route, for the same grade.
|
||||||
Sun 17th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
22 | ★★ Thai Virus - with Heath Black | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Clean repeat. I remember the crux of this being very tough when I first ticked it, was a cruise today, even going more direct than Neil does. Much more fun than I remember.
|
||||||
Sat 16th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Farside Main Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Brain Drain - with Ben Jenga, Lucas C | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. One of the best at the grade in the mountains. Improbable and inspired.
|
||||||
Sat 2nd Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
27 | FA ★★★ Incitatus for POTUS - with Emil Mandyczewsky | 70m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
FFA. Literally the most effort I've put into any climb in the Blue Mountains. 9 days, in soaring temperatures, rain, wind-blowing-waterfall-onto-route, and some sub-arctic conditions. If it weren't one of the most amazing lines I've ever climbed, and if I didn't have a dedicated belayer (who put up with some big falls and subsequent epic temper-tantrums) throughout all of it I doubt I would've finished it.
Mind-blowingly good technical face climbing on beautiful waterwashed rock, up the only wandering line of holds to breach this part of the wall. The Money pitch is 24 slab into a V6 extended boulder-problem crux into a 25/26 sustained face finale. The grade is open to debate. Up until recently I would've sworn it was 28 (based on the effort it took me, and the fact I only EVER linked through the crux once from the ground, and never managed to repeat that effort), but Will Vidler employed short/light/young/strong beta to do the crux of the crux (in isolation) in a totally different manner, which -though not a link- invites the possibility the crux isn't such a shutdown move. Hence: gr27. |
||||||
Mon 28th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
24 | ★★ Fartflusher - with Will Vidler | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow, quite a "journey" of a route. I'd love to claim the onsight, but I actually pumped out at the 3rd bolt (2m into the climbing) after battling to get a long runner on an over-recessed bolt. Came down to the start, off I went, and Onsight from the 3rd bolt to the top. A kinda "traddy-style", sparsely bolted, wandery adventure route that wouldn't feel out of place as part of a multipitch. Lots of tough sequences between mega-rests, but quite runout. If you don't use double-ropes, you need to back-clean the 2 most rightward bolts, or suffer the worst rope drag in history. The top section is more sustained than I expected, with a funky, gnarly variety of moves up a linked series of cool features.
|
||||||
Sun 11th Nov 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | ||||||
23 ~24 | FA ★★ Monteith Memorial Traverse - with Emil Mandyczewsky | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Freeing the access traverse. Not a "great" pitch, nor everyone's cup of tea, but I found it entertaining (and surprisingly hard). Unfortunately the move immediately off the belay is something of an "arbitrary start" (you can reach further left to a better starting hold using the belay), and the last move stepping down the ledge is a bit "meh". But the actual traversing is very technical and complex.
Stay off the vegetation! (until the last bolt). |
||||||
Sun 16th Sep 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Hat Hill Crag | ||||||
22 | ★★ Fedora - with Heath Black, Wade Stewart | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I can't claim the Onsight because I've been on this back in 2013! (might as well be an O/S, though). With some hefty cleaning by Monty, this has turned out great. Probably one of the best 22's in the mountains, though quite tough for the grade. Quite sustained, steep, beautiful rock and varied climbing. I'm pretty happy to eat my critical words about this route from 2013.
|
||||||
Sun 26th Aug 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Atlantis | ||||||
22 | ★ Bullshit Iceman | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fell off the first move back to the ground, then Onsight to the top. My favourite of the short routes off this ledge. Bizarre-o start, followed by quite a few challenging moves on generally great rock. Even a wet finale couldn't spoil this one.
|
||||||
Sun 27th May 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area The Freezer | ||||||
23 | ★★ Warmenpumpen | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
1st shot today placing draws (6 years after falling on Jenga numerous times during my original attempt)! If you make it to the 3rd bolt, its an enjoyable steep cruise to the top... But getting there is BOUL-DER-Y! The moved 2nd bolt is definitely an improvement... I didn't fall on my belayers head once (for which we were both disappointed =P ).
|
||||||
Sat 26th May 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point East Faces Subliminal Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Subliminated | 110m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First go today placing the draws (I'd previously fallen off the traverse crux), as a giant link from the Castaway belay (something I'd wanted to try and achieve) rather than rebelaying below the arete... With some strategic long-runners, rope-drag was negligible, and I actually think that this elevates the quality of the route, rather than doing it as separate pitches. The traverse was fun and cruisy today (weird that I found it so hard last time?) and I dawdled (and enjoyed) the arête crux as well... I'd thoroughly recommend climbing this route as a giant pitch from the castaway belay.
|
||||||
Sun 20th May 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Dingo Creek | ||||||
8 | ★★ Milo | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Basically about as good as you could want a "Blueys grade 8" to be. Solo'd up to the anchors, then just kept on soloing up the gully to the top, and did the long walk back down. Impossibly water-polished rock in the lower half, then a strange Ironstone "tufa" feature to follow at the top.
|
||||||
Wed 25th Apr 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown | ||||||
25 |
FA
★★★ Damascus
- with
Will Vidler
1
2
| 72m | ★★★ Classic | |||
All pitches freed... Super-psyched to go for the 1-day push freeing every pitch in a day. P3 is DA MONEY, and is one of the coolest (and most unique) pitches I've climbed in the mountains: a giant, pumpy rising traverse that links features on strange pseudo-limestone rock (complete with crozzle). Would be Mega Classic if just a pitch on its own; P4 is just a doddly pitch to the ledge (saved from disgrace by the in situ fixed rope); P5 is a techo gritstone-style face/arête with a pumpy finish up a 45 degree roof-cap.
|
||||||
Sun 15th Apr 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown | ||||||
25 | FA ★★★ Damascus - with Heath Black | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
P1 only. First Ascent. Stoked, as good as I'd hoped! A moderate start leads to stacked powerful cruxes, and a pumpy, desperate, arête-slapping upper crux. The bridging moves to the anchors might spit some people off.
|
||||||
Sat 31st Mar 2018 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Main Face | ||||||
18 |
★★ Tomorrows Dream
1
16
30m
2
18
20m
| 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FS attempt with the predominant aim to FS the top (3rd - gr19) pitch, but got a bit rattled by a bunch of loose blocks on P2, and with my head space out-of-check, decided to bail. The end of P1 was bloody gripping in the circumstances, as was the traverse on P2, though neither were -technically- hard, they were insecure enough to be engaging.
|
||||||
Wed 28th Feb 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown | ||||||
24 | ★★ Disco Elbow Dream (Linkup) - with Will Vidler | 40m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Classic climbing, but only a linkup (hence: Very Good). 1st shot placing draws, but can't claim an onsight as I know all 3 routes better than anyone. Relatively tamely graded climbing, tonnes of exposure, super-varied. Essentially avoids the hardest parts of all 3 routes. Made a good warm-up for me. Probably an entertaining intro to this wall without the full commitment factor.
|
||||||
Wed 21st Feb 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown | ||||||
23 |
FA
★★★ Damascus - PROJECT PAUL
- with
Heath Black
2
23
15m
| 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sent P2 at 23 (or V100 if you're short), and had a lead lap on the MEGA P3 (with lots of falls). P3 is awesome, exposed, airy, rising traverse on improbable features, with so many hard moves. Can't wait to get back on it.
|
||||||
Sat 17th Feb 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Farside Main Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Brain Drain | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warmup clean repeat. This time placing the draws. Felt great today, but still demanding and memorable climbing.
|
||||||
Sun 28th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown | ||||||
27 | FA ★★★ The Obvious Elbow (of Aristocrat Arthur Decanter) Direct Finish - with Will Vidler | 55m, 20 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Direct Finish Sorted! 2nd shot today, 10th lead shot total. After falling off the crux of the original Elbow Route on my first lap, I put some time into devising a physically harder (but more reliable in the high humidity) way of doing the low sequence, and as a stormfront moved in (bringing high winds and torrential rains for Sending conditions) I set off and crushed it. Just BARELY kept it together for the top crux, then almost fell off the grade 20 final moves to top out, and again off the wet mantle topout in the rain... Shrieking and whimpering the whole way. That's the sort of Send you want!
No idea of the grade. I don't really care either. Someone else make up a grade for it. Quite a bit harder than the original Elbow Route (which is certainly 26), and substantially harder than I Have a Dream or Disco Non-Stop Party... But 26 will do for now. |
||||||
Sun 3rd Dec 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Waterfall Wall | ||||||
23 24 | ★★ Luft | 55m | ★ Good | |||
1st Pitch only as a "warm down". Took me about 5 goes to stick the opening boulder problem (felt about V4 to me!), then Onsight to the top. As part of a "multipitch" (ie. Wandering around the place to reach a specific point on the wall) this is fine and enjoyable. Some interesting arête moves at mid-height, and an unlikely slab move at the top.
|
||||||
Fri 1st Dec 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
24 | ★ The Diving Board | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Took me about 15 goes to stick the opening move to the pocket (with my long legs and short arms, it was desperate!), but once stuck from the ground I onsighted to the top. A very hard start (relatively speaking) then steep jugs to the anchors. Okay, but not on par with the other routes at this cliff.
|
||||||
Fri 10th Nov 2017 - Buoux | ||||||
Fakir | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Desespoir | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
1st shot today placing the draws. Demanding (especially at the crux) and featuring only insecure slopers facing all the wrong way above the crux, but bliss to climb. Oozy.
|
||||||
Wed 11th Oct 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown | ||||||
25 | FA ★★★ Disco Non-Stop Party Direct Start - with Will Vidler | 40m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
5 new bolts, 10m of new climbing, and a flawed masterpiece is renewed as a perfect gem. I would argue that this is THE best mid-20's arête in the mountains, with great rock, incredible exposure, and intense, sustained arête-ing. 2nd shot today after the muggy total-whiteout that started the day. So many complex, tenuous sequences and I almost botched one right in the middle when I completely forgot how to do it. The upper section is relatively easy (22?) but really steep and super pumpy. Absolutely brilliant.
|
||||||
Sun 1st Oct 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Talk Crime | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat as a warmup (this time placing the draws on lead). Also 2 x Additional laps (clean) as part of the extension. A great route, and that top crux felt easy today.
|
||||||
Sat 2nd Sep 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
27 | FA ★★★ Dawn-Drawn Wonga Pigeon | 32m, 19 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finally went down! 3rd shot today, 10th lead lap in total (many of those very loooooong sessions throwing myself at the crux boulder), and 2 circumcised finger tips. Not sure of the grade, 100% open to opinions. I felt like I worked (and trained) harder than I would for any 26, but who knows? Interested to see how a short-er climber approaches this. The rest of the climb (outside the crux) is rad, but much easier, though the upper-crux could spit people off as well.
|
||||||
Sat 15th Jul 2017 - The Woolwash | ||||||
The Junkyard Cave | ||||||
24 | ★★★ The Junkyard Dog | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First shot as a warmup placing the draws. A total Alzheimer's Onsight (it's been over 3 years since I tried this). Lots of fun ludicrously steep jugging, but a bit stop/start to be truly classic.
|
||||||
Sun 9th Jul 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Cheap Dive Wall and Beyond | ||||||
22 | ★★ Cheap Skate | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awww... Broke a tic-tac crux hold off while cruising (at the 3rd bolt), and thus ends the onsight attempt. Lowered off to the ground and climbed up again from there clean to the top. Aw well... Not as nice as Cheap Dive, but still quite engaging, and I thought pretty hard for a 22? There are tricky moves all the way up. Very worthwhile.
|
||||||
Sat 3rd Jun 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
27 | FA ★★★ Caveat Emptor Extension | 35m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finally! The Old Man comes out to belay, and scores another belay tick! 2nd shot today, 15th shot total (the most shots it's taken me to tick anything under gr28). Had a good first burn, but slipped off the finishing jug. The 2nd shot it was so cold I struggled in the lower section, but didn't stop to chalk once in the upper bit, and that got me through it. I love the climbing on this route (and the headwall is the money!) but I accept that the section to the lower anchor isn't so good, and the rock below the headwall is generally of a lower quality.
As to the grade... I'm not sure. I'm giving it 27 based on how long it took to tick, the specific training I did for this route, and the effort I've had to put in to tick it... BUT, I can accept that this sort of steep power-endurance (13 fingery moves at the crux, coming after 30m of climbing) isn't my forte, and I reckon certain individuals (JengA) have every chance of doing this very rapidly and downgrading it. I'm 100 percent open to opinions on the grade. |
||||||
Mon 8th May 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
24 | FA ★★★ Sanction of the Victim Extension | 35m, 19 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Bwah! Utterly radical. Definitely only tough-ish 24 in todays stellar conditions. 4th shot total. Unfathomable steep climbing on interesting jugs (read: not ironstone dinnerplates) at the grade, up a prow that overhangs for miles, with a red-point crux in the final few moves, and aesthetic, eye-catching rock. You top-out the crag to top this route. Perhaps my favourite "conventional sport route" (read: not adventurous in the slightest) I've ever put up. By the time you lower off you've probably climbed 10m+ of overhang.
|
||||||
Sun 7th May 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
24 | FA ★ Caveat Emptor | 22m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
About time. 4th shot. Could be great, but the crux at 18m is just so much harder than the rest, and not a lot of fun. Hard to grade, might be impossible for someone with less standing reach than me, might be 22 or 23 for someone with more. As it is, if I was any shorter I couldnt do it. The start boulder is fun at about V3, and the middle section to the cave is classy at about gr20.
|
||||||
Sat 29th Apr 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
22 23 | ★★ Trigger Warning | 30m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
1st shot of the day. 2nd shot total. Felt totally fine today, though still quite hard at the grade. Thoroughly enjoyable and -as I said before- one of my favourite easier climbs at the crag.
|
||||||
Sun 9th Apr 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
26 | FA ★★★ Terra Nullius Extension | 35m, 19 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Outrageously rad! Send 2nd redpoint shot, but 4th lap total. Everything about this extension is nutty: turning the roof, punching off the top of the flake, trucking out to the arete, sucking it up and committing to the thin moves, and topping out the juggy steepness. So very, very overhanging, and so very, very exposed. Yeah... I'm psyched about this one. Originally grade "hard 25", consensus seems to be bumping this up to 26.
|
||||||
Sun 2nd Apr 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
23 | FA ★★ Terra Nullius | 22m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
First shot. Great, pure slabbing (with a diabolical first move), but marred because of the quality of rock. Very sustained and technical, and with an engaging stemming corner finale. Not as bad as it looks. At present it climbs like the lower slab on "The Boy From Oz" at Bowens Creek, but without having had the huge volume of traffic to clean it up. Though the rock you hold and stand on is bomber, you might break off little microflakes if you drag your feet, and if you go miles off route you will end up in a sea of choss.
|
||||||
Sun 12th Mar 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
22 | FA ★★ Sanction of the Victim | 22m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very pumpy on sustained (juggy) slopers, might become the main warmup for the harder routes? Send first shot. Some of the best quality rock of the lower-section of the cliff. Considering this was -to me- just the "access section" to get to the mega headwall, I'm pretty stoked with how this turned out.
|
||||||
Sun 20th Nov 2016 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Fashion Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ Queen Bitch | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. This time placing the draws as a warmup. It's been years since I was last on this, and I forgot how hard it is at the grade. Very odd and technical, but totally worthwhile. Rather scary getting to the first bolt, I'd definitely recommend a stick clip.
|
||||||
Sun 30th Oct 2016 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point East Faces Subliminal Wall | ||||||
25 | FA ★★ Swansong | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3rd shot today (and 1 lap on Top Rope solo previously, before bolting). Struggled with the high humidity on the tiny holds today, almost didn't manage the tick. Squeaked it just before the rain arrived. Would be stupidly popular at Shipley or Porters Pass. Grade 22 face climbing for 15m, then a 5m gr23 techno-crimp section, with a final 5m baffling and bizarre gr24 slab sequence to the anchors. If you're crimping hard on the top crux, you're doing it wrong!
|
||||||
Tue 25th Oct 2016 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point East Faces Subliminal Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Subliminal | 92m, 33 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Another clean repeat. Climbed again from the Castaway belay for a 70m megapitch... suprisingly little rope drag. An absolutely brilliant climb. Enough said.
|
||||||
26 | FA ★★★ Sojourn | 80m, 18 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Another one bites the dust. 1st shot today (I'm loving this "warming up at home before I leave"), 6th lap total (including TRS attempts). Mega sustained climbing on stunning rock. Less "rest stances" and harder moves than Sabbatical, but without the demanding intensity of it. Not sure of the grade. One of my favourite new routes.
|
||||||
Wed 19th Oct 2016 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Access Ledge | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Jewel Thief | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. Still a fun warmup.
|
||||||
Wed 28th Sep 2016 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point East Faces Subliminal Wall | ||||||
26 | FA ★★★ Sabbatical | 80m, 20 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
3rd shot today, 7th lap total (including TRS attempts). Climbed as a giant 65m pitch to the top of the cliff for the "full value tick", but not recommended as the rope drag does impede the enjoyment of the route. Just managed to tick it by the skin of my teeth, skipping one of the crux draws entirely and screaming my way to the jug. Might be quite hard for the grade (possibly 26?) but I'm just not sure of my fitness at the moment. Utterly brilliant, wandery climbing up an inspiring, exposed face on stunning rock. A huge variety of moves, lots of weird pockets, complex and sequency. Thanks Glen Thomson for another FA belay in hostile terrain.
|
||||||
Fri 16th Sep 2016 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Buandik Area Millennium Caves | ||||||
23 | ★ Verdensrom | 15m | ★ Good | |||
2 laps. Fun, though short and cruxy. From the huge amount of chalk trucking right around the crux, its obvious that most people climbing this lately have been avoiding the crimpy crux (understandably, since taking the line of crimps and avoiding the jugs 1.5m right IS contrived). On my first lap to the top I accidentally avoided the crux following the chalk, so had to have another lash at it to climb the boulder properly.
|
||||||
Mon 22nd Aug 2016 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Hot Flyer Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Hot Flyer | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat, this time placing draws. A great warmup for the harder stuff. A total Alzheimer's-Onsight.
|
||||||
Sun 14th Aug 2016 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point The Grease Cave | ||||||
23 | ★★ Pulling On the Porcelain | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Total Alzheimer's Onsight (its been 4.5 years since I last tried this!) First shot today placing draws as a warmup. I got really confused with the angle, and hung upside down mid-crux for ages before getting my bearings and cruising the route. Short but fun juggy thugging with plenty of kneebars. The 3rd bolt seems almost off-route to clip?
|
One of the best technical, sustained, and consistently clean face climbs in NSW.