Showing all 39 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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14 | ★★★ Sweet Dreams | 130m, 20 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Dec 2013 | |||
Repeat. Climbed out with (heavy) packs rather than walking out of the crag. Lead Pitches 1 & 2 (linked) and Pitch 5 via the grade 17 variant. Entertainingly picturesque.
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25 | ★★ Cicada (Cicada - PROJECT PAUL) | 45m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Sep 2013 | |||
P1 (Grasshopper Access Pitch) ONLY - Flash. Probably grade 15-16 climbing, but with the amount of dirt in it at the moment it felt hard. Bring a rack of wires.
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25 | ★★ Cicada - PROJECT PAUL | 45m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 11th Dec 2013 | |||
P3 only. Rope soloing lap. Can now climb every move in good style EXCEPT for the crux move. I'm going to move one of the bolts and redirect the route slightly.
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21 | ★★★ Stiletto | 90m, 11 | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Sep 2013 | |||
P1 - Clean 2nd; P2 & P3 (linked) - Onsight. Much better than Day of the Long Knives. Pitch 1 is a sustained endurance test piece, with two distinct crux moves that keeps you fighting to the belay 45m off the deck. Technical and demanding. Pitch 2 is bold at the grade, with two hard moves a long way above the gear, and spaced bolts in-between. I linked it into Pitch 3 (the top 20m of Scimitar) necessitating challenging 2-rope management to avoid drag from the 15m traverse in the middle. Great!
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16 | ★★ Knight's Mare | 130m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 28th Jul 2013 | |||
Climbed at EOD to escape the crag with heavy packs (alpine style!). Multiple guide descriptions don't seem to match the climb. A bit adventurous and vegetated. The super-exposed traverse is great, but the worryingly runout, tricky, manky corner system after it is scary. Good, not great. P1 & P2 of SD (linked) - Neil; P3 (shortened to belay at tree at half length) - Me; P4 (to huge ledge above chimney) - Neil; P5 & P6 (linked - traverse, then up corner system) - Me.
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20 | ★★★ The Phoenix | 45m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Jul 2013 | |||
Another repeat. A speedy lead ascent (25min) to escape the crag as the sun went down. To save time, I simply ran it out as much as possible. Still nothing less than CLASSIC. It's good to see that EVERYONE I've taken out to this climb has reached the top singing its praises. GET ON IT!
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16 | ★★ The Iliad | 87m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 28th Jul 2013 | |||
With Neil (who brought pruning shears for the journey). Mostly enjoyable old-school trad romp, with minimal bad rock and only 10m or so of vegetation in the entire climb. Could be really good with repeats (Neil did his best to clear vegetation and loose rock). P1 - Easy, with a nice (short) crack, and a vegetated finish. P2 - Tricky move to initial run-out, then nice crack to belay. P3 - Great, challenging moves to get started, then nice corner crack. P4 - Funky corner system in a great position
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17 | ★★★ Flake Crack | 53m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Aug 2013 | |||
Repeat. P1 only for a change, placing the gear for Youngie to lead it. Much better as the full linkup.
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15 | ★★★ Fuddy Duddy | 95m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Aug 2013 | |||
Warm-up, with JengA. P1 - Onsight. P2 - Clean Second. P3 - Onsight. An easy-ish old school classic with varied climbing, and some rather spaced (or creative) pro. The second pitch has some rad off-widthing (large cams might be good for the headspace), and the third pitch has some exciting chimneying. Good value at the grade, and it's great to soak in the history.
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19 | Wrath of Delilah | 60m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 21st Sep 2013 | |||
With Taib. P1 - Clean Second. P2 - Onsight. Pretty good climbing, but a lot of rubbish rock. Both pitches have some pretty bold sections with tricky climbing on dubious gear and questionable rock. But both pitches also have their charm. Quite adventurous. Getting off the top was an epic (Taib sacrificed a prussik cord to sling 2 carrots and rap off that). Worthwhile IF you like this sort of thing.
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20 | ★★ The Day of the Long Knives | 92m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Sep 2013 | |||
With Gene. P1 - Onsight, P2 - Clean 2nd. P3 - Onsight. P4 - Clean 2nd. Predictable climbing (lots of small ironstone edges) but generally quite sustained and in an awesomely exposed location. Some bad rock, but we didn't break off much. Tricky route-finding with the other nearby routes (eg. central direct) which necessitated a re-belay when I ended up at the wrong belay. Pitch 2 has the hardest single move of the route, but P3 is quite sustained thinness. Classic in an old-school vein.
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16 | ★★ The Iliad | 87m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 1st Dec 2013 | |||
Repeat. P1 only to get to the ledge at the start of P2. P2 was then climbed via the Trojan (23) variant start for the FA of that pitch. The first pitch has cleaned up nicely, and was genuinely pleasant to lead.
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23 | ★★★ Wake of the Flood | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Dec 2013 | |||
Wow. No wonder this is a test piece crack. Amazing trad climbing. P1 - Clean 2nd. P2 - Onsight. P3 - Red Point (took a huge fall back to the ledge onto C3s on the final move on the onsight). The Chimney on P1 is one of the most amazingly WEIRD I've climbed, the jam crack on P2 is strenuous and the coffin slot (and its exit) is weird and techy, and P3 is a sporty, bouldery finger crack. Stoked to finally get on this with Taib. Great rock the whole way.
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16 | ★★ The Friendly Jackal | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Dec 2013 | |||
Repeat. Climbed to get Guns gear back. Only placed 2 cams (the rest was wires and hexes). Nice climbing, and a friendly introduction to trad with tonnes of great pro.
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Sport | ||||||||
22 | ★★★ Seamstress | 22m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Nov 2013 | |||
Repeat. Stunning climbing, and quite long. Right up there as one of the best 22's in the mountains,
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22 | ★★ La NiƱa | 25m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Dec 2013 | |||
Repeat. Climbed to retrieve a stuck rope. Fortunately it was THIS route that the rope got snagged on and not Thai Virus, because I actually enjoy lapping this beauty.
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19 | ★★ Birthday Bolts | 20m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Aug 2013 | |||
Repeat. Again. Good slab. Read my previous comments on this one.
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21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years | 15m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Aug 2013 | |||
Repeat. Again. Good techy face climbing. Better than the slab next to it. Read my previous comments.
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20 | ★★ Slow Twitch | 30m, 7 | Mt Gibraltar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Aug 2013 | |||
Repeat. Warm-up. Great, weird technical slabbing which just gets steeper until you're climbing an overhanging corner on jugs. Awesome.
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20 | ★★ Slow Twitch | 30m, 7 | Mt Gibraltar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Aug 2013 | |||
Repeat as part of a giant linkup to the Slow Twitch extension. I've climbed this enough times that the funky trickiness of the slab section is under control, but still required my full attention. A totally worthwhile route in its own right.
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21 | ★★ A Day at the Beach | 15m, 6 | Nowra | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Nov 2013 | |||
Repeat. Enjoyable and cruisy, but the crux finale surprised me in its thin-ness. I don't remember it being that difficult.
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21 | ★★ Mr Pink | 15m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Aug 2013 | |||
Repeat. Warm-up. Great fun with a tough finale.
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18 | ★ Gosling | 12m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 27th Jul 2013 | |||
Repeat as a warm up. I still think it's on the money at 18. Not bad.
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20 | ★ Duckling | 12m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Jul 2013 | |||
Repeat. With good conditions, and having NOT been bolting all day, I actually think this is probably more 19 than 20. Still worthwhile for a short little route, and a decent warm up.
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19 | ★ Empty Chairs | 10m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 7th Dec 2013 | |||
Repeat. Short'n'sweet. Nice climbing which is harder than it looks. Good rock and a bit techy.
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23 | ★★★ Leif Ericsson | 93m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 17th Aug 2013 | |||
With JengA. P1 - Clean Second. P2 - Onsight. P3 - Clean Second. P4 - Onsight. Nails hard 1st and 3rd pitch at the grades (where written-up grades are irrelevent), but starkly different climbing between each pitch, and an overall stellar route. P1 is an absolute unrelenting thin face test piece, and a pitch I'm coming back to repeat on lead. P2 is interesting but typical slabbing. P3 - varied and tough pumper. P4 - A bit cruxy, surrounded by much easier climbing. Classic.
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22 | ★★ Fat Yak | 100m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Aug 2013 | |||
With Gene. P1 - Onsight, P2 and P3 (linked) - Clean Second. Pretty good, and probably makes a good hard-ish multi for any wanting to get into this obscure vein, but I found most of the climbing very "typical" Blueys (though not necessarily in a bad way). Predictable, but quality climbing. The first pitch is a nice sustained number to get you warmed up. The 2nd and 3rd pitches combine well to make a worthwhile varied pitch. Great in the sun and with no wind, and awesome position.
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22 24 | ★★ Beggars Banquet | 160m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Aug 2013 | |||
With Gene. Top 2 pitches (5 & 6) only as a rap-in climb-out affair before midday departure. P5 (22) - Onsight. P6 (21) - Second Unclean. I broke a hold off about 2m from the anchors and fell on the last pitch. Pitch 5 is a long, varied and wandery route, getting harder all the way to the last bolt. The final move to the ledge is a killer. The best pitch I climbed at Perrys today. Pitch 6 has a bouldery start, then okay climbing to a final tricky mantle. I can't wait to do the full link.
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20 | ★ the Italian Route | 20m | Mt Gibraltar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Aug 2013 | |||
Repeat. Warm-up. Nice friction slabbing, but still awaiting a nice rainy downpour to wash away the sandy rock after its recent cleaning.
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22 | ★★ The Sublime and the Beautiful | 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 27th Aug 2013 | |||
P1 - Onsight. P2 - Flash (onsight after the first 4 bolts, part way into the crux), P3 - Onsight. I climbed P2 and P3 as a giant 50m pitch. Pitch 1 is an access doddle. P2 is stunning and sustained, with a long, thin, and bloody hard technical crux at the grade. P3 is good climbing with mega exposure, but the rock is a bit crap. A good outing all around.
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19 | ★ Catchit | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 5th Oct 2013 | |||
Repeat. Hasnt become any better since last time, but its an okay warm-up. The first move isnt fun, tbe rest is pleasant, and the rock is good.
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21 | ★★ The Jewel Thief | 28m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Nov 2013 | |||
Repeat. No pushover at the grade, but stunning and worthwhile climbing the whole way. Some long draws will help. Did the unprotected (bouldery) direct start, probably better to start up the vague corner to the left. Great!
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20 | ★★ Radioactive Man | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Dec 2013 | |||
Repeat. Warm-up in approach shoes. Only clipped the bolt before and the bolt after the crux. Awesome little 20, still heaps of fun.
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22 | ★★★ Wally World | 75m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Dec 2013 | |||
With Gene. If it weren't for the hideous V3 start, this entire route would be classic. P1 - Red Point. Took a few goes to get off the ground. P2 - Onsight. Both pitches are great climbing with good moves, good position and solid rock... Just ignore the semi-manky carrots. We had an epic finding the second rap (Hint: its at the bottom of the grey slabby section before the first undercut) so I got some prussiking practice. Slings for a useful thread or some supplemental gear might be a good idea.
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Boulder | ||||||||
V3 | ★★ Friendly Fire | 4m | The Balkans | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Nov 2013 | |||
Quite hard to get established, then some scary balancy moves to the top. Enjoyable.
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V2 | ★★ Exodus-A-Day | 2m | The Balkans | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Nov 2013 | |||
Nice way to do this little problem, and less contrived than the originals.
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V1 | ★ George | 3m | The Balkans | ★ Good | Wed 20th Nov 2013 | |||
Alright bouldering.
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V2 | ★★ Dubya's Dyno | 3m | The Balkans | ★ Good | Wed 20th Nov 2013 | |||
No dyno for me, I can do this static with a high rock-over.
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V2 | ★★ The Rude Bomb | 3m | The Balkans | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Nov 2013 | |||
Maybe the best route on this part of the trenches. Tricky pocket-match. Nice arete.
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Showing all 39 ascents.