Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Mon 22nd Dec 2014 - unknown | ||||||
5.7 | FA ★★★ Scimitars and Sandals | 70m | ||||
Crag-lovers mega-classic. A good first route in Soqotra.
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5.9 | FA ★★★ The Whip of Issa | 40m | ||||
Mega-classic minus the flake.
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FA Sakhra Al-Jennat | 30m | |||||
The best part of this was seeing Issa's face when he topped out.
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5.11a A1 | FA ★★★ Young-Elliott Route | 350m | ||||
Mega-classic. Epic summit bivy in the wind and swirling clouds. Felt like climbing into a myth.
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16 | FA A'sh Al-Rokh | 130m | ||||
Sketchy and run-out. Repeat not recommended
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Wed 26th Nov 2014 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | ||||||
16 M1 17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread | 230m | ||||
Climbed the first three pitches in moderately heavy rain and continued up on progressively drying rock. We did the whole route in 6.5 pitches (the half being the scoot across and into Burston's Crevasse)
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17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread (Where Angels Fear to Tread Direct Finish) | 230m | ||||
Oh squeeze chimney/off-width pitch my old nemesis. The hardest grade 14 pitch in the known universe.
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Wed 26th Nov 2014 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Cathedral | ||||||
15 | ★ Maharajah Left Hand Variant Start | 12m | ||||
21 20 | ★★★ Sultan | 65m | ||||
Take some wide gear to keep the crux in the final overlap pleasant. I didn't and so whimped on the onsight.
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17 | ★★★ Maharajah | 42m | ||||
Repeat.
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Sun 16th Nov 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Sandwiches Wall | ||||||
13 | ★ Pompadour | 15m, 10 | ||||
18 | ★ Hold on to Your Hats | 15m | ||||
Lol. I weirdly struggled to get to the first bolt. FOURTH attempt lol. Don't tell anyone about this.
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Sun 16th Nov 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Mossy Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Truancy Officer | 15m, 4 | ||||
Soft tick but I'll take the points. Called "take" but leapt for the jug above just in time.
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10 | ★ Hesitation | 15m | ||||
In sandals
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Sun 16th Nov 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Steep Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ A Tale of Two Cities | 12m, 7 | ||||
Straightforward. Nice climb
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16 | ★★ The Sisters of Fatima | 12m, 5 | ||||
Jugs jugs jugs
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18 | ★ Stormin Norman (Stormin Normin) | 12m, 4 | ||||
Second try. Didn't like the intermediate holds on first attempt so sequenced a throwy move to the jugs above.
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Sun 9th Nov 2014 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
North Wall - Main | ||||||
20 21 | ★★ She Wolf in the Closet | 22m | ||||
A very definite sequence of moves at half-height makes for a V1 crux and bumps this up a grade for sure. Fantastic route. Needs traffic!
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19 | ★ Hips Don't Lie | 25m | ||||
Bit muddy down the bottom but great climbing. I enjoyed this. Ran out of quickdraws lol.
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21 | ★ Arctic Cat | 25m | ||||
Some nails hard moves in here. Quite aesthetic climbing though.
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Sun 2nd Nov 2014 - Canberra | ||||||
Murrumbidgee River Red Rocks | ||||||
16 | ★ Willie The Pooh | 15m | ||||
18 | ★ Willy Wonka | 15m, 6 | ||||
Tue 7th Oct 2014 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | ||||
TR laps x 5. To make 10 laps on the whole trip!
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18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | ||||
TR laps. x3
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18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | ||||
Repeat
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18 | ★★ Elastic RURP | 20m | ||||
Not bad. I was mega tired on the second last day of the trip and squealed like a pig near the top.
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15 | ★ Illusion | 23m | ||||
18 | ★★★ Iron Mandible | 24m | ||||
Interesting. Bottom is scary and run out. Top involves interesting fist jams and equally run out if you thought it looked like a hand crack and brought only yellow cams!!!
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12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 1 | 12m | ||||
1 12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 2 | 18m | ||||
Absolutely and utterly ungradeable! Squirm like an eel through the greatest body chimney ever. Like the Squeeze Test at Araps but vertical. All the gear is utterly worthless and the chockstones are lethal death traps so don't fall on lead. One of my favourite outings of the trip.
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18 | ★ Witches Covert | 12m | ||||
The top is indeed loose and unavoidable. Nevertheless wonderful climbing down low.
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17 18 | ★★ Chocolate Watch Band | 17m | ||||
Take a #4 for the off-width thrutch-fest up the top. Great climbing
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18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | ||||
Fantastic line! Thin hands crux an absolute treat! Fantastic!
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19 | ★ Psychedelic Apricot Pitch Two | 25m | ||||
TR'ed this after onsighting Plume.
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19 18 | ★★★ Plume | 25m | ||||
Stellar line! Maybe my favourite climb of the trip? The reach for the jug is near-on-dynoey! Soooooooo soooo goooddddd
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17 | ★★★ Smoked Banana | 40m | ||||
I secretly enjoyed the horror show squeeze chimney at the end.
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19 | ★★ Magical Mystery Tour | 34m | ||||
Don't do what Donny Don't Did and not take the big gear for the top! Minimum 2 x #4s and a #5 to protect this adequately.
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20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine | 33m | ||||
Great movement with bomber finger locks and handjams.
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20 20 R | ★★ Holy Grail | 25m | ||||
Start only.
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21 | ★★★ Conquistador | 45m | ||||
Holy shit balls Batman! EPPPICCC. 2 scaredy-cat sits on the crux on the onsight ground-up attempt.
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20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ||||
17 | Jumbo Services Mrs Mills and the Electric Yellow Bums | 20m | ||||
First and only pure face climb of the trip lol
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17 16 | ★★ Micron | 20m | ||||
14 | ★★ Electronic Flag | 40m | ||||
Some passing shanker sprayed some beta at me to pull through the overhang and I'm embarrassed to admit it proved essential ahaha!
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21 | ★★★ Cock Corner | 30m | ||||
A great horror show to top out on this one. Desperate laybacking on tenuous gear above a ledge. Perfect jamming technique required on this one or the crack will spit you out!
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19 | ★★★ Infinity | 40m | ||||
Absolutely sensational line! Mindblowing. Save a red cam for the top!
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13 | ★★ Clockwork Orange Corner | 15m | ||||
Overrated. Worth climbing only because it is in the shad all day.
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Tue 7th Oct 2014 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
19 | Onlooker's Omelette Left Side | 10m | ||||
24 | ★★★ Impulse | 18m | ||||
Figured out all the moves on top rope but didn't bring gear small enough to go for the lead. Absolutely stellar line linking good jugs with desperate laybacking. More of a face climb really.
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21 23 R | ★ Cracks in the Pavement | 25m | ||||
Just the hand crack section (21) above the Impulse ledge to get back on LLL.
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17 | ★ Liquid Laughter Layback | 38m | ||||
Quite good. Even enjoyed the V Groove atrocity which constituted a wonderful morning's squirm.
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17 | ★ King Shits and Dead Shits | 20m | ||||
Worthless sandbag. I was attracted to this line because Bill (on the FA) taught me to alpine climb. Absolute atrocity.
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16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution | 20m | ||||
Quite good.
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14 | ★ Electric Lead | 26m | ||||
Actually there was more than a few moments of spice in this one.
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16 | ★ Century | 15m | ||||
Fantastic. The fist and off-fists sequence at the end was delightful.
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16 | ★ Horse-drawn Zeppelin | 12m | ||||
Very good technical crack climbing. Fun movement bouncing between two cracks.
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14 | ★ Shit Heap | 10m | ||||
Quite good but also quite short. But 10m is a great excuse to take triples and sew the f***er up!
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18 | ★ Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla | 20m | ||||
Quite good. Getting to the tree from the ledge is worthless though.
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22 | ★★ Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla Direct Start | 10m | ||||
Fourth try. Very difficult thin hands section to reach the bomber hand jam. On the second attempt after a desperate few layback moves I whipped, ripped a cam and landed on my belayer . All in a day's sketching!
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20 | ★★ Lord of the Flies | 40m | ||||
We took the guide book's advice and climbed the finger crack only before embarking on a magical adventure linking all the worst parts of the Onlooker's Omelette pillar to access the Theory Ledge.
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18 | ★ Noose | 22m | ||||
Great climb. A thoughtful move or two traversing the diagonal into the fist crack. The scene of an overcammed nightmare.
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Tue 9th Sep 2014 - Canberra | ||||||
Buildering ANU Indoor walls | ||||||
21 A2 | ★★ ANU Finger Crack | 10m | ||||
First aid ascent
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23 | Post-Modern Trad Climb | |||||
Tue 19th Aug 2014 - Tasman Valley | ||||||
Beetham Crag | ||||||
AI4- WI4- | ★★★ Natural Selection, Mt Darwin's Toe | 500m | ||||
Classic. If only for the controversy it raised when locals kicked up a stink about what aspect of Darwin it really was on in our reporting. South Face? West Ridge? South Shoulder? Let's call it Darwin's Toe. Nice ice climbing. 44 hour round trip up the glacier, up the plod, up the ice, down and out.
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Sat 16th Aug 2014 - The Remarkables | ||||||
West Face Left Side | ||||||
M4 | ★ Ari-an Supremacy | 60m | ||||
Amazing grovel. Is there anything more badass than offwidth thrutching with one arm and whacking frozen grass with an ice axe in the other?
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Sat 16th Aug 2014 - The Remarkables | ||||||
West Face Telecom Tower | ||||||
M5 M4 | ★★★ The Clearances | 200m | ||||
Thu 14th Aug 2014 - The Pink Palace | ||||||
M6 M7 | Circumnavigating the Pink (The Grand Traverse of the Pink Palace) | 25m | ||||
Flat crux hold required some gnarly effort to stay with it. Cut loose, toes barely off the ground. Skim skim skim. Send!
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Tue 12th Aug 2014 - The Remarkables | ||||||
West Face Left Side | ||||||
M3 M2 | No. 1 Gully, Left Hand Branch (Number One Gully) | 110m | ||||
After a massive snow dump probably M3- in these conditions. I forgot to bring the rack so I led the entire thing with 2 microcams, a snowstake and a knifeblade piton (including for anchor pieces)... needless to say, knotted slings make bomber anchors.
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Mon 11th Aug 2014 - The Remarkables | ||||||
Single Cone South Face | ||||||
WI3 | Only for Muppets | 20m | ||||
Sun 10th Aug 2014 - The Remarkables | ||||||
Double Cone Alta Slabs | ||||||
WI3- | The Gully | 45m | ||||
Good warmup to get into the swing of the ice season. "Don't fall on ice"
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Sat 9th Aug 2014 - The Remarkables | ||||||
West Face Left Side | ||||||
M3 | ★★ Minge Kunt | 180m | ||||
Thu 7th Aug 2014 - The Pink Palace | ||||||
M5 M3 | Pink Panther | 4m, 2 | ||||
Thu 7th Aug 2014 - Den of Iniquity | ||||||
M5 | ★★ Man-Boy Love | 8m, 7 | ||||
Thu 7th Aug 2014 - The Pink Palace | ||||||
M6 | The Gimp | 10m | ||||
Sat 2nd Aug 2014 - Ōtepatotu | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 17 | ★ Little Vibrator | 22m | ||||
20 | Eliminator Direct Start | |||||
This would be a seriously bold lead as a boltless face climb. Another era...
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15 14 | ★★ N. S. U. | 20m | ||||
Absolutely stunning line. Great jamming. Proud crack with ample feet.
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Fri 1st Aug 2014 - Transmitter Crag | ||||||
First Crag | ||||||
15 | The Clandestine Years | 12m, 4 | ||||
19 | Talking Sphincter | 10m, 4 | ||||
The last route of the day. All the routes at the first cliff of Transmitter crag in the afternoon.
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16 | Vertical Janitors | 12m, 4 | ||||
15 | ★ Dirt E Boys | 23m, 8 | ||||
18 | Geppetto | 12m, 4 | ||||
18 | Huffing Helium | 23m, 9 | ||||
16 | ★ Gridlock | 15m, 4 | ||||
16 | Bad Transmission | 10m, 3 | ||||
15 | ★ Transmission Received | 10m, 3 | ||||
14 | National Grid | 12m, 5 | ||||
17 | ★ Pinocchio | 15m, 4 | ||||
17 | Lip Service | 23m, 1 | ||||
Thu 31st Jul 2014 - Cattlestop Crag | ||||||
Shimmering Jelly Wall | ||||||
★ Gift Horse | 12m | |||||
Bit of dry-tool training. Fuck da localz
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★ Roadside Attraction | 12m | |||||
19 | ★ Thin Hedgehog | 12m, 3 | ||||
12 | ★ Gift Horse | 12m | ||||
Nice climb. Good pro at the flake at half-height. Intricate the rest throughout.
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17 | ★ Roadside Attraction | 12m | ||||
Really good. The technical crux is also the section with the poorest protect. Thin, fiddly small wires. A good English-style headpoint
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13 12 | ★ Lichenable | 14m, 5 | ||||
Super windy. Beginners leading this might benefit from a cam or two to protect a ground-fall runout
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Sun 27th Jul 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Dogface Lower Wall | ||||||
15 A3+ | Scylla | 120m | ||||
Holy shit balls. Fucking terrifying. First two pitches only. Attempted hammerless ascent. Don't try this at home.
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Tue 22nd Jul 2014 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area | ||||||
21 22 | ★★★ Hotel California | 330m | ||||
Mega. Took a monster lob off the final 18 pitch. 10m upside-down whipper back to the belay when a hold snapped off while clipping a bolt. Luckily I had my Italian belayer as a bouldering mat.
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Sat 19th Jul 2014 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
Billy Billy Innocence | ||||||
11 | ★★ Agent Orange Victim | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
An interesting challenge when slick wet with snowmelt. Great crystals, great gear. Another classic.
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Sat 19th Jul 2014 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
Billy Billy Sarah's Cracks | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Nice Day for a White Wedding | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Just phenomenal. The kind of hand jams where you know its just impossible to fall out of it. Sensational find - the crag classic.
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Sat 19th Jul 2014 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
Billy Billy Innocence | ||||||
19 17 | ★★ Why Does It Always Rain On Me | 8m | ||||
Difficult thin hands start. Definite sandbag if Vomit at Boo is the model 17 crack in Canberra scale. Probably as hard as Last of the Mohicans
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