Ascents as Pink point by Jason Nguyen

Decided to give the all-free version a go, my god that was SO fun!! Big cut loose swing and big smiles!

Onsight didn’t go very well, a lot of useless chalk around. One fall at crux with a bad sequence. Sorted the sequence second go then jugs to the top, but not a drop of chalk along the way, had to brush quite a bit of spider webs off.

I sent pretty comfortably second go. Much nicer with beta and draws on. No knee bar, oh, but I can get 4 fingers in the first pocket (with a squeeze)

First lap I skipped the start and was trying to sort clipping beta in the scoop but struggled so came down.

Second lap I skipped the start again and kind of sorted beta for the scoop then put the rest of the draws up.

Third lap, fell on the starting move, went too far!

Lowered to immediately try again, didn’t feel confident but hung on for dear life and managed to get the send!!! Didn’t even use the clipping beta I came up with! Super stoked!!

Had to come back after falling off the top last time. First lap to brush and check beta on the top jugs.

Sent confidently on the second lap! Awesome! First 27.

In approach boots to clean, wet up top but still doable.

Wasn’t planning to pull on today but Grape Hour had a 5 person line, maybe 20 people including 3 kids and 2 dogs at main wall???

First lap placing draws and brushing, sent second lap. Didn’t climb the bottom very well but recovered on the jug enough to send it! Don’t build a cairn, even I have to jump!!

Didn’t give it enough juice to get to the back of the hold at the end of the crux first go. Could totally drop it post crux too!

Second go, got through crux nicely but nearly came off afterwards trying different beta. Reeled it back in, did a mixture of my original beta and the different beta and just managed to hold on for the send. Super good.

A nice warm up, except I definitely did the crux wrong (big drive by) Repeat from 10+ years ago

Excellent route! First lap to hang draws and getting the sequence. Sent second go very comfortably, super good!

Unbelievably busy at the crag, over 20 people?? It was available but not a very good warm up.

Really nice climbing once you’ve got the sequence! Second go.

Unsent last time, happy to resend end of day today. Such good fun and probably the best I’ve done the slab!

Repeat, warm up

Onsight ended going to the 4th bolt, spent too much time faffing and trying to get the mud off my shoe too. Committing start (I have to jump to the pocket) but not too bad once you’ve got the sequence.

Second shot, nice and smooth.

Repeat, thanks for having the bolt plates and draws on Chris!!

Had to chuck a lap between Jacks attempts (and give the crux a brush of course) I felt very comfortable on it, so that was nice!

Up and down lead in approachies

Rpt

Climbs well, maybe a bit daunting if at your limit?

My god I was pumped. Did some real minging of holds because I couldn’t commit to the big move at the start

Soooo good

Repeat, not as nice as I remembered. Quite a hard top? (Went quite direct though)

Fun jug hauling, you can avoid the crux crimp and undercling if you wish

Nice climbing and features

Repeat, definitely soft

Second last draw still sucks to put on, changed my beta for the send (by not going extremely direct) and that made it much easier!

Right after the 16

Still rate this one. Awesome features!

Nice climbing up top

First go ended when I slapped a not-hold two moves from the anchor 🥲

Second go, climbed the bottom badly but remembered the top beta at least. Very cool and way easier than CTL.

Forgot all the microbeta and footers so I cut loose a few too many times, but went first go! Pretty happy considering I didn’t hit many holds correctly and also forgot the top beta.

Did a second dogging lap to put the draws back up for Jack and brush the holds.

Repeat, nice

Was feeling under the weather so didn’t intend to hop on, but the whole wall was in the shade so figured why not??

One lap for figuring out beta then second lap to send. No falls but definitely needed specific beta. Awesome slab moves. Zero leaps for me at 169cm with a positive ape index and some delicate footwork! That fortnight of doing the slabs with Ben at the boulder gyms paid off!!

Happy to have ticked everything on the little triggers wall now.

Repeat, very pleasant; would’ve liked to have started everyone on the easier climbs on the left but they were all taken, top ropes on almost everything! I’ve never seen the crag so busy but it’s been years since I was last here.

Repeat, nice and cruisy, hung around for a while helping caitlyn with beta for Starman.

Such a good route, awesome moves, positions, holds and length!!

Don’t go direct with the bolts the entire way, it is definitely not the grade if you do…

Needed a second go, 17 is fair as per guidebook

Nice to resend this, went very easily today, in a smooth / slow manner; happy with my endurance!

Hadn’t touched JH in years so first lap was a warm up/ brushing and beta lap with a few sits. Spent some time trying to figure out resting beta. No falls figuring out the moves.

Second lap went very smoothly! No dyno for me, as much as I love a good dyno, I was happy crimping the life out of that side pull. Sent with plenty left in the tank!

A worthy extension and addition Lucky/Toby, RIP mate.

Still so surprised how pumpy this short climb can be, awesome holds and moves!

Definitely often overlooked.

Almost sent putting on the draws, just didn’t give it enough (only hit the jug with 1/2 pad or so) Second go fairly comfortably.

Cool holds, nice climbing

Awkward for 14?

Still find this solid at the grade, just glad I didn’t take that fall which has haunted me for years 😂

A pleasure today but still induced quite the pump.

Lap up in boots to clean

Felt easy today, all that gym climbing paying off! Just locked the right crimp in the crux and reached through, no desperate throw this time.

Reachy start, very slabby