Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 19th Sep 2021 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
28 27 | ★★★ Gasoline Rainbow - with Tracey Hua | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Finally managed to get good crux beta and good conditions together. Key for me was good footers in the crux to avoid any cutting loose and efficient climbing down low to save enough energy to make the final few crux moves. After watching a few others on this line I probably didn't have the most efficient beta but it still worked so good enough.
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Sat 17th Oct 2020 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Screaming Insanity - with Tracey Hua | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmup
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28 27 | ★★ Call of Duty - with Tracey Hua | 25m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Going through and re-learning beta
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28 27 | ★★ Call of Duty - with Tracey Hua | 25m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell moving to the arete on COD. Couldn't get back enough from the kneebar where weapon splits off and pumped out on jugs. Surprised I made it this far. High point. Went to anchors and figured out last few moves dogging along the way.
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28 27 | ★★ Call of Duty - with Tracey Hua | 25m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Made sure to engage in kneebar rest at 1st bolt and backrest really hard and get something back. Felt much better going through the traverse to the arete but still nearly fell off the mega jugs on the rete. Managed to rock on over to the face and compose myself for the finish. Kneebar pads were sliding off for the last few bolts as I didn't do them up tight enough but luckily I could still do the last few without slipping out. Very satisfying send, didn't think I'd get it today
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Thu 21st May 2020 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
28 27 | ★★ Call of Duty | 25m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Couldn't even make it to the top. Rain and humidity overnight made some holds near anchors of Weapon too slippery to use
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Sat 1st Feb 2020 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
28 27 | ★★ Call of Duty - with Duncan | 25m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First time getting on this line for a while. Forgot a bunch of beta on Weapon of Choice so needed to relearn and dog quite a bit. Went to anchor of CoD, super fun arete and cruxy traverse. Feels pumpy
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28 27 | ★★ Call of Duty - with Duncan | 25m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Trying to get some links
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26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity - with Duncan | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warm up, fell on last move
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Tue 17th Dec 2019 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★ Scrambled Eggs & Honey | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Working out beta on top section
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26 | ★★ Scrambled Eggs & Honey | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 11th Dec 2019 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★ Scrambled Eggs & Honey - with Andrew Lightfoot | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Worked out most of the beta. Some holds feel quite sharp especially with the heat & humidity, but the climbing is very fun and classic coolum style
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26 | ★★ Scrambled Eggs & Honey - with Andrew Lightfoot | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Didn't quite work out some beta properly and too tired at end of day
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28 27 | ★★★ Spoonman - with Tracey Hua | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got all the rests nicely and climbed efficiently. Felt really good
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28 27 | ★★★ Spoonman - with Tracey Hua | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fell going through crux due to bad hand-eye coordination
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24 | ★★ Has It Got a Chevy Motor? - with Tracey Hua | 12m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warmup
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25 | ★★ Hung Like A Fruit Bat - with Tracey Hua | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Warmup
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Mon 9th Dec 2019 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
28 27 | ★★★ Spoonman - with Jack Hogan | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Falling on last move
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28 27 | ★★★ Spoonman - with Jack Hogan | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Falling on last move
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28 27 | ★★★ Spoonman - with Jack Hogan | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Falling on last move
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Wed 4th Dec 2019 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
28 27 | ★★★ Spoonman - with Jack Hogan | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Working
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28 27 | ★★★ Spoonman - with Jack Hogan | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
28 27 | ★★★ Spoonman - with Jack Hogan | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell going for final jug. Went through and managed to recover plenty upto then but just didn't have enough left for last move. Should go soon
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Sat 10th Mar 2018 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
29 | ★★★ A Kneebar Too Far - with Tracey Hua | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Working out the beta
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29 | ★★★ A Kneebar Too Far - with Tracey Hua | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Managed to work out the crux and get a bit higher
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29 | ★★★ A Kneebar Too Far - with Tracey Hua | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Send burn but crux beta wasnt right. Still need to work it out
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25 | ★★ Hung Like A Fruit Bat - with Tracey Hua | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up burn
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Sun 17th Sep 2017 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finally got this one
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Sat 24th Dec 2016 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★ Nuts in High Places | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
26 | ★★ Nuts in High Places | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gave it another shot, couldn't get to the anchors. Last few holds were too spoogey causing me to keep flying off
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25 | ★★ The David Lee Roth | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Still couldn't get past top crux. tried a few times
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Sun 27th Dec 2015 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity - with Andrew Lightfoot | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Putting draws up. Conditions not great, slipped off screaming crux
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26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity - with Andrew Lightfoot | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity - with Andrew Lightfoot | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
26 | ★★★ Screaming Insanity - with Andrew Lightfoot | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up, fell at crux.
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Sun 30th Aug 2015 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
25 | ★★ The David Lee Roth - with Andrew Lightfoot | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got mega shut-down by this one. Spent ages working out the beta for the first cruxy section as I couldn't do it the same way I saw. Eventually got something passable but was too pumped to continue
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25 | ★★ The David Lee Roth - with Andrew Lightfoot | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Made it thorugh the first hard section this time (dogging) but still haven't worked out beta properly. Spent a lot of time whipping and working main crux with no real results
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25 | ★★ The David Lee Roth - with Andrew Lightfoot | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
And again, barely made it into the first crux. This climb seems to be really good at shutting me down or I'm just really coolum unfit. Will get my revenge one day
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Sun 8th Mar 2015 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warmdown
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28 27 | ★★★ Spoonman | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First ever attempt and just figuring out beta. Got to second to last bolt but couldn't figure out the clipping stance.
Feels hard
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28 27 | ★★★ Spoonman | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Worked attempt. Made it through all the moves individually with about a million rests. All moves feel possible, just going to be really hard to link
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Sun 22nd Feb 2015 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
slipped off going through the crux. pretty humid today
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27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Everything finally came together and I managed to cruise to the finish. Even managed a two handed clip from the final kneebar
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25 | ★★ Cleared For Takeoff | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
working out beta and warming up. start section feels really sketchy the first time, and the top can be committing
|
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25 | ★★ Cleared For Takeoff | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
sorting out beta at the lip
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25 | ★★ Cleared For Takeoff | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
third time's the charm. didn't feel too hard with all the beta sorted
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Sun 8th Feb 2015 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
24 | ★★ Has It Got a Chevy Motor? | 12m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warmup
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Sun 1st Feb 2015 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell same place again
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27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
And again
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27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
And again
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27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warm up attempt, fell just after 4th bolt
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Sun 9th Nov 2014 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finally linked upto the first bolt, and managed to keep going up to the 4th. new high point
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27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warm up
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Sun 12th Oct 2014 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Screaming Insanity | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
26 | ★★★ Screaming Insanity | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warming up and working out beta.
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27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Refigured out all the moves. Need to start trying it regularly to not forget beta
|
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Wed 14th Aug 2013 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
And again
|
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26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell going for last hold
|
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26 | ★★★ Screaming Insanity | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finally red pointed while trying for wholly
|
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24 | ★★ Yoink | 10m, 6 | ||||
24 | ★★ Has It Got a Chevy Motor? | 12m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 9th Jun 2013 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
25 | ★★ Hung Like A Fruit Bat | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Warm down
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24 | ★ Beer, Boobs and Jerky | 10m | Average | |||
Trying out top sequence
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24 | ★ Beer, Boobs and Jerky | 10m | Average | |||
Trying out top sequence
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24 | ★ Beer, Boobs and Jerky | 10m | Average | |||
Barely held together the dyno, but finished comfortably
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24 | ★ Beer, Boobs and Jerky | 10m | Average | |||
Trying out the dyno
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24 | ★ Demolition Man | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 12th May 2013 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
25 24 | ★ Crazy Horny | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Finally figured out sequence that works after wasting all my energy. still somehow managed to finish
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25 24 | ★ Crazy Horny | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Trying to figure out start sequence
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25 24 | ★ Crazy Horny | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Still trying to figure out start sequence
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25 24 | ★ Crazy Horny | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Setting up draws
|
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Sun 14th Apr 2013 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell after missing a hold at the screaming anchors. almost red pointed
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26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell reaching for the last hold
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26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell just after clipping the second to last bolt
|
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26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Only barely clipped the screaming anchor. Won't get any better today
|
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Dogged mostly
|
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26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Feeling pretty good, foot came off moving to the two horns near the top and fell
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26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pumped out on the two big horns near top and fell
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26 | ★★★ Wholly Calamity | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Putting up draws
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Sat 9th Mar 2013 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Dogged my way to the top, definitely next level shit right here
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27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 3rd Mar 2013 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
25 24 | ★ Crazy Horny | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Cleaning
|
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26 | ★★★ Screaming Insanity | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried it at end of day, pumped out after crux
|
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25 24 | ★ Crazy Horny | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Couldn't get the start so skipped it and sussed out some moves finished
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25 24 | ★ Crazy Horny | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Skipped start and sussing out moves again
|
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25 24 | ★ Crazy Horny | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Skipped start and fell on anchor clipping hold
|
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26 | ★★★ Screaming Insanity | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried for the redpoint, no dice
|
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Sun 24th Feb 2013 - Mt Coolum | ||||||
26 | ★★ Three Men and A Ladder | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Tried new beta for the section coming out of the final rest and made it to the anchors
|
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26 | ★★ Three Men and A Ladder | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Fell trying to come out of the kneebars
|
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26 | ★★ Three Men and A Ladder | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Didn't get a good hold on the last pinches and fell
|
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26 | ★★ Three Men and A Ladder | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Core engaged, climb ticked
|
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24 | ★ Beer, Boobs and Jerky | 10m | Average | |||
Couldn't get the move after many attempts
|