Ascensioni in Mt Coolum da Igor Khudoshin

Finally managed to get good crux beta and good conditions together. Key for me was good footers in the crux to avoid any cutting loose and efficient climbing down low to save enough energy to make the final few crux moves. After watching a few others on this line I probably didn't have the most efficient beta but it still worked so good enough.

Warmup

Going through and re-learning beta

Fell moving to the arete on COD. Couldn't get back enough from the kneebar where weapon splits off and pumped out on jugs. Surprised I made it this far. High point. Went to anchors and figured out last few moves dogging along the way.

Made sure to engage in kneebar rest at 1st bolt and backrest really hard and get something back. Felt much better going through the traverse to the arete but still nearly fell off the mega jugs on the rete. Managed to rock on over to the face and compose myself for the finish. Kneebar pads were sliding off for the last few bolts as I didn't do them up tight enough but luckily I could still do the last few without slipping out. Very satisfying send, didn't think I'd get it today

Couldn't even make it to the top. Rain and humidity overnight made some holds near anchors of Weapon too slippery to use

First time getting on this line for a while. Forgot a bunch of beta on Weapon of Choice so needed to relearn and dog quite a bit. Went to anchor of CoD, super fun arete and cruxy traverse. Feels pumpy

Trying to get some links

Warm up, fell on last move

Working out beta on top section

Worked out most of the beta. Some holds feel quite sharp especially with the heat & humidity, but the climbing is very fun and classic coolum style

Didn't quite work out some beta properly and too tired at end of day

Got all the rests nicely and climbed efficiently. Felt really good

Fell going through crux due to bad hand-eye coordination

Warmup

Warmup

Falling on last move

Falling on last move

Falling on last move

Working

Fell going for final jug. Went through and managed to recover plenty upto then but just didn't have enough left for last move. Should go soon

Working out the beta

Managed to work out the crux and get a bit higher

Send burn but crux beta wasnt right. Still need to work it out

Warm up burn

Finally got this one

Gave it another shot, couldn't get to the anchors. Last few holds were too spoogey causing me to keep flying off

Still couldn't get past top crux. tried a few times

Putting draws up. Conditions not great, slipped off screaming crux

Warm up, fell at crux.

Got mega shut-down by this one. Spent ages working out the beta for the first cruxy section as I couldn't do it the same way I saw. Eventually got something passable but was too pumped to continue

Made it thorugh the first hard section this time (dogging) but still haven't worked out beta properly. Spent a lot of time whipping and working main crux with no real results

And again, barely made it into the first crux. This climb seems to be really good at shutting me down or I'm just really coolum unfit. Will get my revenge one day

Warmdown

First ever attempt and just figuring out beta. Got to second to last bolt but couldn't figure out the clipping stance. Feels hard

Worked attempt. Made it through all the moves individually with about a million rests. All moves feel possible, just going to be really hard to link

slipped off going through the crux. pretty humid today

Everything finally came together and I managed to cruise to the finish. Even managed a two handed clip from the final kneebar

working out beta and warming up. start section feels really sketchy the first time, and the top can be committing

sorting out beta at the lip

third time's the charm. didn't feel too hard with all the beta sorted

Warmup

Fell same place again

And again

And again

Warm up attempt, fell just after 4th bolt

Finally linked upto the first bolt, and managed to keep going up to the 4th. new high point