Ascents as Onsight by o_g

The second pitch is a classic. It took about 1 hour exactly to walk into the top of the route. Hardest moves are probably on pitch 1, but pitch 2 is very sustained technical off vertical wall climbing.

Another great addition. Bouldery start, with a committing deadpoint to a blind sloping dish that luckily had good texture. Then an excellent broccoli slab to a rest below the steep finish. Save some biceps strength for the anchor clip, or better, look for a knee bar.

Had to pull very hard on the crux.

Seconded Roger to clean as a warm up. Not sustained, but a long atmospheric route from the bottom to the top of the crag.

Enjoyed this one. Lots of locking off good positive jugs.

Excellent warm up, climbing a juggy crack like feature.

Banger. Great rock up a juggy tufa flow to arm bar rest below crux steepening. Drop a gear and commit to the sustained and sequency section above. Parkyn had the nerve to stop to chalk up in the middle of the crux, where I had just had to sprint to the rest.

I remember nothing, other than it was great.

Some corally holds down low, but nice spaced in cut holds up high. All these routes are longer than they look to be from the ground.

Quick afternoon sugar rush in the shade. As the season winds down, there were "only" 36 climbers on Alani Wall and maybe 76 on the whole crag. One of the locals said 2 weeks before she had counted over 110 people at the whole crag. So elbow room increasing at the most popular crag on the island.

Had to try hard, very hard. Felt harder than the 6c+ two routes to the right. Thought I was off for three moves on the thin black wall at half height, and was on a close run countdown timer on a clip higher up. The low clips (where the fence could be a factor in a fall are off good holds).

The initial steep bouldery wall is easier than it appears, and the thin wall up high is technical and thoughtful.

This wall always delivers.

Ended up finishing up the extension on the route to the right. Great long pitch.

Quality reduced by the last 10m of rambling slab. Excellent first part. Lots of technical shallow pocket sequences between good rests.

Cool route.

Had done the start before as part of the 20. The low corner is pretty cruxy and committing.

Cool climbing. The slab move and the hanging corner are topnotch, the middle third is a bit rambly

Not bad. I don't remember much about it....

Last climbing day. Crag was quiet, great! Zero breeze, humid. Not great! Everyone else is smarter than me.... Route is a bit scrappy down low, but then is lovely climbing.

Brutal boulder problem start, stick clipping bolt 1 a good idea. Felt hard for the grade.

Warmed up on this. Hot in the sun and a bit of polish made the bouldery start plenty awkward.

Interesting and engaging climbing. Loses some quality points at the top where three routes all come close to merging, and it's unclear about what is in, and what is out.

Looks short and poxy, but the first 8 metres offers brilliant climbing.

A climb for those with a sophisticated palate. Sure the bolting is a bit weird, sure the rock is a bit sharp in places, but offers unusual rock architecture and a thrilling finale.

Ten metres of nice climbing at the top doesn't rescue the ten metres of ramble at the bottom.

Fingery crux at the bottom, then a bouldery crux up high. Had to drop the clutch on the high crux.

Great climb, and a viable warm up. Builds in difficulty to a crux on smallish holds up high.

Looks like it has been cleaned and (re?) Bolted very recently. Really interesting climbing up a number or flake systems. Quality will improve as the dust clears from the cleaning.

There will be no end to mythos consumption on this trip. Great climb. Punchy commiting moves down low, some power needed at the bulge leaving the flake system, them a delicate traverse and anchor clip that I almost dropped.

Tidy warm up.

A bit sharp and inconsistent. Ok as a warm up.

Good stuff. Some two finger pockets and underclings.

Technical wall climbing on small positive crimpy side pulls. Clips are a bit tricky.

Scrappy first 5 metres, then classy gymnastic climbing up high.

This felt nails. Sequence of small sharp crimps over a bulge with not great feet. I wouldn't have argued if someone told me it was 6c+.

This wall just keeps delivering the quality.

Had some nice moves in sections, but was a bit to sharp to be pleasant.

Excellent wall climbing on spaced incut pockets.

Nice shady vertical wall. A couple of awkward bulges above ledges where it's not clear whether to go direct past the bolts, or to the side and maybe into an adjacent route detracts

The artist previously known as Captain heel hook. Heel hook deployed and successful.

Time to try something steeper. Looked like it would have lots of knee bars so I strapped up and set out. Awkward cruxy mantle at the start, then cool overhanging feature. Spent 15 seconds trying to find a knee bar, realised it was terrible and I am still incompetent at knee bars. Considered trying again, but just abandoned the thought and gunned to the top. Pumped at the anchors, had to climb high to find a jug I could clip from.

This crag has a lot of interesting rock, nice flake face holds, featured pockets. Really interesting climbing. With shade and easy access it will be really popular, but I think the rock type here will polish quickly which is a shame.

Rock looks a bit dirty / grotty from the ground, and while clean, there is something about the rock on the route that is a little unpleasant. Climbs well though. The initial thin wall looks blank from the ground, but has big holds that are reachy. The rooflet and sidepull wall above required some commitment.

Doest look like much, but nice climbing.

Good moves, but painfully sharp.

Didn't enjoy this as much as senza freni, mostly because I was crushed with no warning at all by the rope being pulled by the party on the route to the left. All part of life's grand tapestry.