Ascents as Red point or Ground up red point as sport by o_g

Would be classic if it didn't fight for independence with Elies at the crux. On-sight fight foiled at the crux. Tried to go direct. At the crux, the bolts are one foot left of your left hip, and their is a ticked sidepull jug for the right hand at 2pm. When you grab it, a bolt on Elies is at your right elbow. So it's all a bit compressed at the crux.... Easily second go.

First day of cooler northerly conditions. Went for the on-sight but badly misread the top. No problem second go. First and last thirds excellent, middle third detracts.

Warm up continuation.

Lovely route. First half requires some route finding up lots of positive big pockets. Fell on the thin face crux on the on-site (along with a lot of others going by the mass of chalk and show rubber at the crux). Found a sequence and did well to send second go.

Apparently I have done this before, and thought it "good". I'm upgrading it to very good. Perhaps the 10 years of traffic have smoothed some prickly holds, or perhaps I'm now more easily pleased. I made the crux hard for myself, by reading the best sequence of good one pad sidepulls with some hip twists using two obvious two pad flat 45 degree footers that were glistening glassily, and deciding that my trust level was low and I would revert to some good old fashioned front on mingging crimping.

Excellent reachy climbing between spaced jugs, except for the difficult to read crux sequence where there is some T Rex moves on slopey pinches. Easily 2nd shot.

Thin bouldery start (that I fell off). Nice long arete in good position up high. Does feel a little contrived keeping to the arete though.

Not sure how I've never tried this before. It's pretty awesome. Fell at the reachy crux on the onsight. Took a fair bit of work sitting on the rope to find a sequence that worked for me. I ended up using left hand Gaston, high feet, right hand up to jug at 11 o'clock.

A good addition.

Memorable route. Fell of the boulder start. Stemmy palmmy cornering up high. Cool sector.

Cleaned up an old dog. Sustained crimpy faceclimbing. Quite a bit of route reading required.

Reachy and powerful climbing in the first half.

Fell of the awkward bouldery start. Restarted and managed the rest ok. Good climbing. Has a good rest at 3/4 height before the final bulge to the chains.

Climbed this well. Long steep moves to a rest, then a technical headwall. Managed to get lost and punt of the headwall, but sorted it out next go.

In the guide as an extension but would be better to climb it as a seperate route from the rock&roll cave. Steep and insecure moves above the ledge then awesome steep underclings and sidepulls. I dogged up the first three draws to eliminate the ledge fall before ticking.

Fell of the start, all most fell of a second time. Felt pretty bouldery. Another excellent route.

Quality route. Well worth the walk. I used the right option at the top, which felt like classy climbing.

Repeat warmup. I've upped it to classic. Because it's pretty classic

Well conceived line (if I do say so myself). Amazing holds in the first 5 metres.

Another lap.

Almost got RSI from brushing.

Saw a lass take a nice whip off this late in the day, looking at the chains but she couldn't release a hand to clip. It's side pulley up there.

Took some effort, but enjoyed the battle. Lots of two and three finger shallow pockets lead to a brutal crux on mono pockets. Nails.

Felt easier this time. Used a more direct sequence at the crux to avoid the right hand side plates and deadpoint.

Needed a second day. Felt straightforward after sorting a better sequence for the moves to the right and back left at half height in the overhanging section.

Rested my way to glory. Tough move at crux, but you get a full rest just before it, so hard to grade.

Felt straightforward second go once I knew where the holds were. Not sure how some of the holds are managing to stay on but it was fun thrashing around on the steep top half on monster jugs.

Second go, got lost and pumped first time. No problem second go. In other news today is the first day I have slept in till after noon since I was in high school. Climbing from 3pm till 9pm is the future.

Got a bit lost, got a bit sweaty, got a bit pumped, managed to pull it together second go.

Happy to finally tick this one. Took me ages so I've given it 26. It got some super quick repeats so it might be 25. Nice slab moves though.

Fell off the start,almost fell off the middle, could have fallen of the top.

Repeat. NR day 2. Route has improved with age!

Repeat. NR day 7.

NR day 5.

Took a while to sort out the body position for clipping the anchors.

No hard moves for the grade, but much more sustained than most routes on the wall. Top quality climbing.

Good to finally put this to bed.

Another Dave S strong fingers crux special!

Awesome climbing on great rock (by kempton standards). Had tried this ages ago and fell of up high. No problem today.

Tough anchor clip.

End of day run to see how it compares to Gatorade.... Felt easier than Gatorade to me (except for the nails first move)...

Tough for this route to live up to the enormous hype. It's definitely one of the top 200 routes at Sand River though. Bouldery and cruxy sequence through the roof. Failed miserably on the flash attempt, failed miserably on the second attempt, managed to put it together third go. Good climbing, didn't feel like an easy tick!