Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 8th May 2024 - Freienbach | ||||||
7b Hard | Bastard - with Mr C | Average | ||||
Interesting.... Tried till the first bolt a while ago, not being able to find a solution. Today first go basically onsighting the entire thing by just crimping the shit out of everything. Closest I came to falling off was clipping the anchor, not seeing the sidepull jug.
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Gäsi | ||||||
Mitte | ||||||
7c+ Easy | FA ★★★ Happy Feet - with Mr C, Mr M | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Engaging climbing on stellar rock quality, where body positioning and esp. good footwork are key.
As always in Gäsi, seems tricky until you understand what needs to be done |
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Trolok | ||||||
7b+ |
★★★ Ambositra P1
- with
Xa4
1
7b+
20m
| 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 1st May 2024 - Paschga | ||||||
7b+ ~7b | ★★ Aladaĝlar - with Jascha | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First go, but have done the LHV before.
Easier and nicer than the LHV (which was already soft), so probs more like 7b.
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7a+ ~7b | ★ Torpor - with Jascha | ★ Good | ||||
Climbs better than it looks. For me harder than the new 7bs on the right.
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Kalkofen | ||||||
7c |
★★★ Affengeil
1
6c+
17
Good Warmup
2
7c
13
Extension is difficult to onsight. Good fun the second time around. | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Route reminds me of Gäsi climbing =)
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Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Cama | ||||||
Laboratorio | ||||||
7a ~6c+ | ★★★ Nuove prospettive - with Mr C | 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
6b | ★ Fuga dal minotauro - with Mr C | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Avegno | ||||||
Torbeccio Bala Balengo, Zufolandia, Zio fiasco | ||||||
6a | ★★ Amici per la Spazzola - with Mr C | 15m | ★ Good | |||
7b/b+ | ★★ Malbuner - with Mr C | 34m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
With zero chalk on the route, this was quite an onsight fight.
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Gäsi | ||||||
Links | ||||||
7a | ★★ Erebos - with Sara_S | 35m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I guess i was the first one climbing it this year; now the upper section is nice and clean again ;-).
Good addition to the crag. |
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7c | ★★ El Xipiron - with Mr C | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The crossover / fall into the right hand sidepull is such an outrageous and unlikely move...Super cool when it comes together.
Not physically hard, but good body tension is key. |
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Gäsi | ||||||
Mitte | ||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★ Slot Machine - with Mr C | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
New long line left of Prince Eisenherz.
Gets better the higher you go; with a tricky move out of the dihedral and onto the prow.
For me more 6c, but easier than the sandbagged 6cs to the left of it ;-) |
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7c ~7c | FA ★★ Discombobulated - with Sara_S | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A fun journey this one.
Rapped over it last year to clean it thinking it was Dschungelpfad. Now it turned out, the SAC Glanerland guidebook has this one and its neighbor confused, and this was the old project (I guess now, in hindsight, it makes sense why the grade was no-where near the suggested 7a 😉) Removed the trees, cleaned the route, and added the missing bolt and anchor. It’s actually really nice to climb. A bit of a puzzling crux down low (at least for me) where you do about 6 moves without gaining any height (but might be easier/ different if you can reach a bit higher from the ramp). Middle part is fun climbing and then another tricky section around the last bolt, with the typical Gäsi Shenanigans. Grade needs confirmation. |
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Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Paschga | ||||||
7b+ Easy | ★ Kapadokya - with Jascha | ★ Good | ||||
So the trick is to climb above the anchor....Good climbing but the bottom crux was quite wet.
I hope you are getting a discount on sika Jürgen ;-) |
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Palionisos Secret Garden | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Bourré Mais Pas Pleine - with Constance | 38m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cleaning up an old dog.
Classic line. First go today a few years after my onsight try ;-)
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7a | ★ Mayumba - with Constance | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
7a | ★★ Apocalypse - with Constance | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a+ | ★★ Tricky Katie - with Constance | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun route and tricky indeed.
Not the best warmup.
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7b+ Easy | ★★★ L'Insoutenable Légêreté de l'Etre - with Constance | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cleaning up an old dog
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Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Spartacus | ||||||
7a | ★★ Mon Batchounousougounoudoudou | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very cool climb. However, I am one of the lucky ones who got to climb this with nice conditions. Can only imagine what this must feel like on a humid day...
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Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Meltemi | ||||||
7c+ ~7c | ★ Hurricane - with Yannick Froese | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Probs more 7cish? Had to pull hard though when a few holds broke while entering the crux.
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7a Easy | ★★ Chinook - with Yannick Froese | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good day at meltemi. Crazy what a restday can do for your climbing ;-).
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7c Easy | ★★★ Zephyr - with Yannick Froese | 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Proper zero chalk onsight.
Very cool climb with a fun finale to the anchor.
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8a Easy | ★★★ Meltemi - with Yannick Froese | 35m, 22 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful technical slab with 100 monos. Loved it.
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Noúfaro Almodóvar | ||||||
7c | ★ Urgent - with Mari | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Could have been an onsight, but on the 9th day on I was happy to tick the route at all 😂
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Olympic Wall | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Saule - with Mari | 30m | Average | |||
Yes please, let's have another forced anchor clip crux ...
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7a+ ~7a | ★ Dr Shrinker - with Mari | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Kalydna | ||||||
7b+ Easy | ★★ Fran-Fran - with mari | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice warmup. Anchor could have been two draws earlier for my liking.
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Noúfaro Almodóvar | ||||||
8a+ | ★★ Develop as You Are - with Mari | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I do feel like I am stil developing, which is a really nice thought...
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Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Poets | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Poets' Corner Ext - with Mari | 35m, 17 | ★ Good | |||
5c | ★ Poets' Corner - with Mari | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a | ★★ Hipponas - with Mari | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6c | ★ Archiloque - with Mari | 27m | ★ Good | |||
6c | ★★ Alcman - with Mari | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Arhi Balcony Helvetia | ||||||
7c | ★★★ Mr Souvlaki - with Mari | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
What a route!!!
Happy to finally onsight a 7c which is considered as hard....makes me feel a bit better about all the softies I ticked ;-)
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7b+ Easy | ★★★ Rapunzel - with Mari | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very pumpy as a warmup but super cool climbing.
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Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Arhi Arhi Main | ||||||
7a | ★ The Last of the Mohicans Ext - with Mari | 40m, 19 | ★ Good | |||
6b+ ~7a+ | ★ The Last of the Mohicans - with Mari | 30m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
If you climb where the bolts are the overhang is the hardest bit of the entire 40m. At least 7a+, possibly harder.
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Tue 19th Mar 2024 - Galerie | ||||||
Gorubi | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Bella Donna - with Jascha | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really enjoyed this one, even with the occasional wet hold.
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6c+ | ★★ Efeuverschneidung - with Jascha | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
More a technical wall climb than a dihedral but good fun!
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Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Avegno | ||||||
Torbeccio Zufolo | ||||||
6b ~6c | ★★ Totentanz - with Mr C | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun with a techy crux.
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6c+ ~6c | ★★★ Unrestricted - with Mr C | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
On foot slip in the blazing sun .
Cool Climb
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6a+ | ★★ Moon Child - with Mr C | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a+ ~6c | ★★★ Nimbus - with Mr C | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun Climbing but the grades are a bit all over the place at this wall....
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Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Avegno | ||||||
Torbeccio Underzero | ||||||
7b | ★★ Pistöle - with Mr C | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun, just a bit sharp in parts.
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7c+ | ★★★ Milano Torino - with Mr C | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
No clue while this only gets one star in the book. Super fun climbing with quite the unique crux.
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Chulilla Town La Peñeta | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Smigol (L1+L2) - with Mari | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Turns out you don't need that many draws for a 40m route after all...
Beautiful climbing but a strong mindset is almost more important than finger strength on this one.
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6c | ★★ Smigol (L1) - with Mari | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit of a harder start, but super cool features all around.
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7a+ | ★★★ Fantasma de la ópera (L1+L2) - with Mari | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fun continues climbing till the anchor
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7a | ★★ Fantasma de la ópera (L1) - with Mari | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Typical chulilla start into some nice climbing and a technical crux towards the anchor. Good fun.
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Pantano Oasis | ||||||
6c | ★★ L’art de touché (L1) - with Mari | 25m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Start is slicker than tom cruise. Very nice climb once you surpassed that.
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7c Easy | ★★★ Un día llamado milagro - with Mari | 38m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This must be soft? However with 80km winds I had to fight like hell to not get blown off the techical sections.
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Pantano Serengueti | ||||||
7b+ Hard | ★★ The president of the united chulillas - with Mari | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The most I fought all trip. The starting boulder is nails, as is the higher technical traverse.
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7b Hard | ★★ El Americano - with Mari | 35m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This would be classic if not for the starting boulder.
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7b | ★★ Deep perpal - with Mari | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very cool climbing with very stupid bolting.
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Pantano Master | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Tururú que no te vi - with Mari | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
6c | ★★ Lluvia negra - with Mari | 43m, 20 | ★★★ Classic | |||
7c | ★★★ Las lágrimas de Cristo - with Mari | 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit scary putting the draws up. Fun climbing the second time around.
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Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Pantano Fuente del Tato | ||||||
6b | ★★ La zarra pastrosa - with Mari | 32m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
7b | ★★★ Ajo y estaca - with Mari | 37m, 16 | ★ Good | |||
More straight forward crimping; not as good as sex symbol.
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7c Easy | ★★★ Sex symbol - with Mari | 38m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
More technical than hard.
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Pantano Chorreras | ||||||
7c | ★★★ Los caminantes (L1+L2) - with Mari | 55m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
What an adventure. 55m of tufa madness, though didn't feel like a tufa climb at all, more like a chimney/offwidth climb. I think in the entire 55 m there is not a single downwards facing hold
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7b | ★★★ Los caminantes (L1) - with Mari | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Don't stop at this anchor. The top part is a lot better and not much harder
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Pantano Oasis | ||||||
6c | ★★ Qué hago jugando a la petanca con este cacho de tranca - with Mari | 18m | ||||
That felt hard as a warm up
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7a | ★★ El Oasis - with Mari | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Classic route; minus 1stsr for the start and minus 1star for the Marble.
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7a | ★★ Chevo - with Mari | 29m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The upper half is a classic 6a. The bottom have a glassy bouldery 7a...
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Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Walgau | ||||||
Lorüns Paris Texas | ||||||
7b+ | ★ Cosanostra - with Manu | 15m | ★ Good | |||
6c+ | ★★ Emanuel - with Manu | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a+ | ★★ Igel - with Manu | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Avegno | ||||||
Torbeccio Bala Balengo, Zufolandia, Zio fiasco | ||||||
6b | ★ Trigonometri - with Manu | 20m | ★ Good | |||
7a | ★★ Bricolage - with Manu | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6c+ | ★★ Test da Sogno - with Manu | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7b | ★ Andy Q-λ - with Manu | 35m | ★ Good | |||
New books says 7a+, but 7b seems fair.
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7c+ | ★★ Tiglio l'appiglio ext. - with Manu | 38m | ★★ Very Good | |||
More technical than hard.
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6c | ★ Faggio selvaggio - with Manu | 19m | ★ Good | |||
7a+ | ★★★ Dracula - with Manu | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super good. Though felt like an oven in the full sun ;-)
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6c+ | ★★ La rivincita degli obesi - with Manu | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Knew the shared start. Rest os
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6c | ★★ Enoma - with Manu | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 29th Jan 2024 - The Geisha Walls | ||||||
The Chablis Wall | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Castello di carte | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 29th Jan 2024 - Avegno | ||||||
Torbeccio Bala Balengo, Zufolandia, Zio fiasco | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Killing Batman - with Sara_S | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a | ★★ Tiglio l'appiglio - with Sara_S | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 6th Jan 2024 - Beycik | ||||||
Middle | ||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Tirişka - with Mr C | 30m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
No crux and all holds are jugs!!...why am I so pumped then?
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6b+ | ★★ Voodo Child - with Mr C | 33m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a+ | ★★★ Vodka Punch - with Mr C | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Such a beauty.
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7b+ ~7b | ★★★ Duble Espresso - with Mr C | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The choice is yours
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7a | ★★ Skoll - with Mr C | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a+ | ★ Learning to fly - with Mr C | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Three star route....minus two stars for morpho anchor clip crux.
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Sat 6th Jan 2024 - Beycik | ||||||
Left | ||||||
6c+ | ★ Conan - with Mr C | 25m, 15 | ★ Good | |||
Scary to the anchor...opted for the safe jumping off rather than commiting to the move on onsight.
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6b+ | ★★ Kizil Gerdan - with Mr C | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 5th Jan 2024 - Geyikbayırı | ||||||
Alaaddin | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Dream On - with Mr C | 33m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not a 7b+
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Fri 5th Jan 2024 - Geyikbayırı | ||||||
Barbarossa | ||||||
7b+ | ★★ Lemmy - with Mr C | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Tough nut for the vertical challenged
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6b+ ~6c | ★★ Mustapha et les Mustaphettes - with Mr C | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a+ Easy | ★★ Padişahlık Son - with Mr C | 33m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The approach was harder than this.
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6b | ★★ Hürrem Sultan - with Mr C | 24m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 5th Jan 2024 - Olympos | ||||||
Cennet | ||||||
7c+ | ★★ The World is Spinning without Me - with Mr C | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
You gotta stop moving ever so often and just let the world turn.
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7b+ | ★ Das Kapital - with Mr C | 23m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Don't have much if this these days...
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6c | ★ Çiçek çocuk - with Mr C | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better warmup than the 6b+ next to it.
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Fri 5th Jan 2024 - Beycik | ||||||
Middle | ||||||
6c | ★★ Concrete Jungle - with Mr C | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unreal features
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6b | ★★ Laodikeia - with Mr C | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
No bees no problem.
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