Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Date | |||
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Mallorca Llevant Cala Bota | |||||||
6b | ★★ Kalki - with Giggler | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Mar 2019 | |||
Committing move at the end, be tall or fly.
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5c | ★★ Edelweiß (Right dihedral) - with Giggler | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | Fri 8th Mar 2019 | |||
6a | ★★ Touch the sky - with LFF | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Mar 2019 | |||
Huii,, technically 6a only at the beginning, but mentally 6a after. Touching the sky over the sea!
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5c | ★★ Elmo Love - with Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler | 11m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Feb 2020 | |||
Too hot to climb seriously
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7a | ★★ Todo bene - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | Fri 8th Mar 2019 | |||
Yeah Some warmup in the route and on the 2nd or 3rd serious attempt it went! 25 years from 6a to 7a - if I continue with this pace I'll reach 9a at the age of 99 Probably a bit soft for 7a, but who cares, nice climbing!
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5c | ★★ Maria - with Norima | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 7th Mar 2019 | |||
Nice laybacking, totally different style and rock than the routes before.
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6b | ★★ Sobre el coral - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Mar 2019 | |||
Missed a bolt, attack was the best form of defense
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6b | ★★ Sobre el coral - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Mar 2019 | |||
Just to try the correct sequence -easier like that.
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5c | ★ El vals del obero - with Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | Tue 25th Feb 2020 | |||
No motivation. Let's say: rest day!
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6a+ | ★★★ Wonder Woman - with LFF | 10m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 7th Mar 2019 | |||
Sport / boulder cocktail mix through the roof. Powerful, if you do it so stupidly as I did it
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5b+ | ★★★ Banita - with LFF | 10m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 7th Mar 2019 | |||
Super fun climb with rock features all around yourself. Why can't it be 3 times longer?
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3c | ★★ Schnurzelpurzel - with Sandra † | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Mar 2019 | |||
The planned hands-free Jonny Dawes memorial ascent didn't work out, but at least the one-hand memorial ascent for 'Ms. broken-hand' Sandra †...
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Mallorca Llevant Cala Magraner Xorics | |||||||
6a+ 6a/a+ | ★★ Nautilus (Staples) | 22m | Thu 25th Nov 2010 | ||||
5b+ 5c | ★★ The Juggy One | 23m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 24th Nov 2011 | |||
Incredible route at this grade, what a jug fest! Missed a bolt in onsight attempt...
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Mallorca Llevant Cala Magraner Pipiricot | |||||||
5b+ 5c | ★★ Crack | 17m, 7 | Tue 20th Nov 2012 | ||||
Excellent easy route
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5b+ | ★ Wall and Groove | 20m, 5 | Tue 20th Nov 2012 | ||||
Fun climb, not obvious
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5b+ 5c | ★★ Paramuero | 11m, 4 | Thu 24th Nov 2011 | ||||
too short
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5b+ 5c | ★★ Paramuero | 11m, 4 | Tue 20th Nov 2012 | ||||
6a | ★★ Sa nyoscla (Sa nyoscia) | 14m, 5 | Thu 24th Nov 2011 | ||||
Two reachy moves in the middle are the solution
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Mallorca Llevant Cala Magraner Sense Voler | |||||||
5b+ 5+ | ★★ En paz descanse (En pas descanse) | 10m | Thu 24th Nov 2011 | ||||
Incredible crack climbing at this grade!
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5b+ 5+ | ★★ En paz descanse (En pas descanse) | 10m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Nov 2014 | |||
Short but excellent overhanging crack with some quite spaced jugs.
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6b | ★ Tiny | 10m | Average | Fri 28th Nov 2014 | |||
Not really good, but I had to complete it after some tries last year. Cool crossover move though.
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6a | ★★ Sense Voler | 10m | Thu 24th Nov 2011 | ||||
Pure wall climbing, tricky to figure out where are the right holds
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6a | ★★ Sense Voler | 10m | ★ Good | Fri 28th Nov 2014 | |||
Repeat.
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6a+ | ★★ Ratanuit | 10m | Tue 20th Nov 2012 | ||||
Amazing: 2 monos on a 6a+
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6a+ | ★★ Ratanuit | 10m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Nov 2014 | |||
Repeat. Good route but a bit too short.
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6a | ★★ Viento (The Crack) - with Sandra †, Arvin | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | |||
So lazy today! Nice line following a thin crack into a slabbish finish. The bolts look a bit spaced, but they are in perfect position.
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Mallorca Migjorn Tijuana | |||||||
5b 5a | ★ Ebamsa | 20m | Sat 27th Nov 2010 | ||||
6a | Left Wing | 20m, 6 | Sat 27th Nov 2010 | ||||
Mallorca Migjorn Torre d'en Bèu | |||||||
5c | ★★ Placa - with Giggler | 22m, 6 | ★ Good | Fri 5th Nov 2021 | |||
Warm-up before unluckily rain came in, quite easy for a 5+. Checking out this crag which is not described in any guide - very nice, but seems to require significant editing...
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Mallorca Raiguer Puig St. Martí | |||||||
4+ 4c | ★ Pedorretas - with LFF | 26m, 7 | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Mar 2019 | |||
In sneakers and without chalk. Not exactly easy like that.
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4b+ 4c | ★★ 100 Duros | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | Wed 23rd Nov 2011 | |||
cool moves, long climb, and fantastic view from top
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4c | ★★ 100 Duros - with Sandra †, Jarno | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Mar 2019 | |||
Too hot in T-Shirt
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4b+ 4c | ★ La Mosca | 25m, 9 | Wed 23rd Nov 2011 | ||||
hard slab in the middle if climbed directly
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5b+ 5a - c | ★★ Alzheimer | 25m, 8 | Wed 23rd Nov 2011 | ||||
long and just delightful
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5+ 5a - c | ★★ Alzheimer - with LFF | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Mar 2019 | |||
6a | ★ Atila | 18m, 6 | Wed 23rd Nov 2011 | ||||
2nd go. No elan so early the morning...
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6a | ★ Atila - with Sandra † | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Mar 2019 | |||
5b+ 5c | ★ Tio Listo | 18m, 6 | Wed 23rd Nov 2011 | ||||
Partly wet. And the bush at mid height is getting to large...
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5 3c - 4a | ★ El Niño - with Norima | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Mar 2019 | |||
Quickdraw rescue. Not bad, but far too short.
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Mallorca Raiguer Caimari Comuna de Caimari | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Scoop left - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno, Arvin | 18m, 9 | Fri 16th Feb 2024 | ||||
Everything else around was occupied by Spaniards, so no other choice than warmup onsight
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5c | ★★ DJ's Club - with LFF, Giggler | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | |||
6a | ★★ Pena negra - with LFF, Giggler | 20m, 12 | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | ||||
6a | ★★ Pena negra - with LFF, Jarno | 20m, 12 | Tue 13th Feb 2024 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - with LFF, Giggler | 24m | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | ||||
Much easier if you know what to do
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6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - with LFF, Jarno | 24m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Feb 2024 | |||
Shit, should have led it. Was still too impressed from this shitty 6a slab before. This one is much better.
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5b 5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers (Via des vombers) - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | |||
5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers - with LFF, Jarno | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Feb 2024 | |||
6a+ | ★★ La Princesa del Pueblo - with Arvin, Sandra †, Giggler, Laurent, Norima | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | Tue 1st Nov 2016 | |||
6a+ | ★★ La Princesa del Pueblo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | |||
6b | ★★ Day of the Reflection - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | |||
Nice and long line with several distinct sections, the crux is to get over the slightly overhanging crimpy wall at the top with a few hard pulls. 2nd go, unluckily too stupid for onsighting this...
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6a | ★★ Con El Puño Por Debajo (Con El Puno Por Debajo) - with Arvin, Sandra †, Giggler, Laurent, Norima | 28m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Nov 2016 | |||
6b | ★ Enanismo emocional - with Arvin, Sandra †, Giggler, Laurent, Norima | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Nov 2016 | |||
6b | ★ Enanismo emocional - with LFF | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | Fri 28th Feb 2020 | |||
Unplanned support ascent to LFF. One hard pull incl. clip, then it's over.
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7a | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 15m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | |||
Definitely an error to try again toprope, once again getting too late and dark and windy and rainy for a real try. Far from at the limit, most likely easier than 7a. Note to self: Get on your projects at the beginning of the day
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6c+ | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with LFF | 15m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Feb 2023 | |||
Ups, gleich im ersten ernsthaften Versuch geschafft! Knapp aber am Ende doch drangeblieben
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6b+ |
★★ Las bolas del chino
- with
Sandra †, Jarno
1
6b+
20m
| 20m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Feb 2020 | |||
Tricky passage in the middle, it's not really over when you grab the balls. With some beta from below, but since this was what I decided for anyway, I still consider this as onsight. Probably more like 6b?
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6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Feb 2020 | |||
Sustained fingery technical wall climbing & a very hard sequence at the very top, when you already spend all your juice. Still not sure how to exactly clip the chain.
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6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - with Sandra † | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Feb 2020 | |||
If you have a slow team, do your project as warm-up! Very smooth go, not even pumped thanks to a new much better beta for the finish
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6c | ★★ Via morito - with LFF | 22m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 5th Mar 2019 | |||
Yes! Zitat Arvin: "Am schönsten ist der Sieg wenn man von der Niederlage gekostet hat" P.S.: Clip the last bolt so late that you don't need it anymore...
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6a+ | ★★ Corrich - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Feb 2020 | |||
A nice introduction to tufa climbing. Competition style, gets gradually harder vs. the top. The last metres are really not a present, had to fight a bit!
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6b |
★★ Relaja la Raja P1
- with
LFF
1
6b
| ★★★ Classic | Wed 22nd Feb 2023 | ||||
An excellent climb! Quite scary over the bulge and then keep your shit together through the upper tufa. The clip after the first bulge is very hard to reach, a panic sling comes in handy.
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5b | ★ Rompesuelos - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 9 | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | ||||
Pretty hard very direct version to avoid all the wet tufas.
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5c | ★★ Pa Torrat - with Jarno, Giggler | 23m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 5th Mar 2019 | |||
No permission of the team to lead this beauty
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Mallorca Raiguer Caimari Hairpin Wall | |||||||
5c+ 6a | ★ The Blob Indirect | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | Tue 26th Nov 2013 | |||
Some reachy moves and a bit polished, too, not a present for 5+! Without using the root even harder.
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6b | ★ The Blob Right-hand | 6 | ★ Good | Tue 26th Nov 2013 | |||
Gets gradually harder towards the top. Anchor (single bolt) hard to reach / clip, would have been better placed 20cm to the left.
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5 | ★ Right - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 22m | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Nov 2021 | |||
5 | ★ Curving Groove - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 21m | Average | Wed 3rd Nov 2021 | |||
Mallorca Raiguer Alaró Chorreras | |||||||
6a | ★★ Kiko | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Nov 2014 | |||
Very nice slab climbing, but the crux comes when the difficulties seem to be over...
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6a | ★★ Kiko - with Giggler, Laurent, Yue, Laurent2, Florence | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Nov 2016 | |||
5c | ★★ Pincha Uvas | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Nov 2014 | |||
Excellent slab / crack combination. There is always a good hold when you need it.
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5c | ★★ Pincha uvas - with Giggler, Laurent, Yue, Laurent2, Florence | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Nov 2016 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Ramon me ha hecho el avion - with Giggler, Laurent, Yue, Laurent2, Florence | 28m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Nov 2016 | |||
Stupid name, should be called Xylophone - sounds hollow from bottom to top.
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Mallorca Palma Sa Cantera | |||||||
6b | ★★ Fantasmas al amanecer | 20m | Sat 26th Nov 2011 | ||||
Aargh, I really suck on slabs
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5b+ 5c | ★ Neo | 20m | Sat 26th Nov 2011 | ||||
Mallorca Palma Ca's Català | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Trash Out - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 14m | Average | Tue 3rd Nov 2015 | |||
Basically a one-move problem on thin crimps. Good warm-up though.
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6c | ★★ Bateria baixa - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Nov 2015 | |||
Really hard only until 2nd bolt, but the rest is not totally given neither. A bit too short, more a highball boulder...
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6a+ | ★★ La manada - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd Nov 2015 | |||
Very interesting upper part, it looks easy but every move is awkward.
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4b | ★ Hembras - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 15m | Average | Tue 3rd Nov 2015 | |||
Through the gully, less jugs than expected...
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Mallorca Serra de Tramuntana Sa Font | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Quatre Dents i un Nas - with Sandra †, Giggler | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Nov 2021 | |||
Felt pretty easy. But definitely too hot here - kids went on strike. Switching to the beach...
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5c | ★★ Quatre Dents - with Sandra †, Giggler | 12m, 5 | Average | Tue 2nd Nov 2021 | |||
Almost tropical conditions, 25deg, 100% humidity and no shadow, very hard to get motivated . Wow, 3 tries for grade 5 route, short tricky sequence to leave the overhanging part, big jugs otherwise.
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Mallorca Serra de Tramuntana Sa Gubia Excalibur | |||||||
★ Ópera prima | Thu 22nd Nov 2012 | ||||||
Very bizarre climbing for the grade, so cool!
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6a | ★ Na guarra | 22m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 22nd Nov 2012 | |||
wall and crack climbing, very nice
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Mallorca Serra de Tramuntana Sa Gubia Isla Bonita | |||||||
6a |
★★ La Isla Bonita
1
6a
lead by
Anderl
2
4b
lead by
Daniel
3
6a
lead by
Anderl
| 60m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Nov 2014 | |||
Great route with 3 totally different pitches. P1 wall climbing (quite hard for the grade) with a tricky traverse from left to right and back, P2 relaxing groove, and then comes P3. It features some unusual rock, a kind of gripless curtains, which you have to spread up through. Not really hard, but I had to take a break to figure out the solution.
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Mallorca Serra de Tramuntana Sa Gubia Potaje Español | |||||||
5a | ★ El jardín de la abuela | 24m | ★ Good | Tue 25th Nov 2014 | |||
5a | ★★ Potaje Español | 24m | ★ Good | Tue 25th Nov 2014 | |||
Nice little relaxing pitch, a bit disappointing with all these huge walls around.
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Mallorca Serra de Tramuntana Valldemossa The Barrel | |||||||
4a | Centro - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 8m, 1 | Don't Bother | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
Very hard overhanging start, 5 for sure. The rest one can forget. Did it just to get the rope down.
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Mallorca Serra de Tramuntana Valldemossa Main Crag | |||||||
5b+ 5c | ★★ Dali | 13m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 26th Nov 2014 | |||
Repeat. Very short, very overhanging, very very juggy!
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5b+ 5c | ★★ Dali | 13m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 25th Nov 2009 | |||
5c | ★★ Dali - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 13m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
Repeat for Sandra to try it. Pumpy finish, not a good warm-up.
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5c | ★★ Dali - with LFF, Sandra † | 13m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Feb 2020 | |||
Quickdraw rescue
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6b+ | ★ Pepino | 20m | ★ Good | Wed 26th Nov 2014 | |||
Not bad, much more homogenous than Pepa. 3 tries until fingers were warm and sequence was figured out.
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6a+ 6b | ★ Pepa | 20m | Average | Wed 21st Nov 2012 | |||
thermal overload - one short stop after the crux to get rid of shirt...
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6a+ | ★ Pepa | 20m | Average | Wed 26th Nov 2014 | |||
Warm up repeat. Very crimpy at the beginning, then too easy.
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6a+ 6b | ★ Pepa - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 20m | Average | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
Repeat to put up the rope for the others
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6a | ★★ Suphi | 24m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 21st Nov 2012 | |||
Excellent and varied climbing. Probably an Alzheimer onsight.
|
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7a | ★ Something — 2 attempts - with Arvin, Jarno | 12m | ★ Good | Thu 15th Feb 2024 | |||
Quick after shopping visit of the old project: A sleepy teen belayer left me no other choice than to pull through the trick is really to find the right beta through the upper void
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Mallorca Serra de Tramuntana Valldemossa Upper | |||||||
6a | ★★ Shorty | 35m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 23rd Nov 2012 | |||
Very good technical climb. Alzheimer onsight.
|
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6a | ★ Lanky | 35m | Wed 25th Nov 2009 | ||||
6a | ★ Spanky | 24m | Wed 25th Nov 2009 |