Guidebooks
Help

Ascents as Onsight or Onsight solo by Mark Gamble

Searching in:

Ascent filters:

  • Journey
  • Wearable
  • Protection
  • Milestone
-

Route filters:

Climber filters:

Sort by:

Showing 1 - 100 out of 195 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Wed 7th Jun 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan
Desperation Wall
10 ~10 Orpheus - with Bruce Schneider Trad 150m Good
The general consensus seems to be that this is the route.

 
Sun 24th May 2020 - Mt Ngungun
Upper Cliffs Nursery Cliff
5 Left Right Out - with max Trad 23m
Had to have a go at this whilst in the neighborhood. Certainly lives up to the reputation: some of the biggest holds in S.E. Qld.

 
Wed 25th Jul 2018 - Mt Beerwah
Mosquito Wall
10 A Tick Among Mozzies - with terry Trad 12m
The hollow flake is a bit of a worry. Otherwise not bad climbing.

 
Sun 15th Jul 2018 - Mt Ngungun
Andromeda
16 Black Hole - with Derek Sport 10m, 3
Some 16. I think I've done grade 12s that were harder. Certainly The Bard.

 
Tue 24th Apr 2018 - Mt Ngungun
Andromeda
9 The Lazy, Alcoholic, Incompetent Bolting Man Sport 25m, 12
Sweet climb. Saul good.

 
Wed 7th Feb 2018 - Mt Ngungun
Babylon
13 Fillament - with Damien Cizauskas Sport 22m, 4
Nice climbing.

 
Thu 11th Jan 2018 - Mt Ngungun
Babylon
13 14 Heinzinator - with Damien Cizauskas Sport 14m, 3 Good
Just that tad easier to make that first bolt. But nice moves after that.

 
12 11 As Thick As Two Planks Stuck Together With Stupid Glue - with Damien Cizauskas Sport 25m, 7 Very Good
Good to be back on rock after a 4mth break. One of the best 12s I've ever done: good rock, nice moves, nice location.

 
Tue 19th Sep 2017 - Mt Ngungun
Andromeda
13 Orion's Belt - with Damien Cizauskas Sport 25m, 5
Pretty easy. Nice moves.

 
15 Lunar Eclipse - with Damien Cizauskas Sport 17m, 4
Not a 15, perhaps 13. Muldoon was more challenging.

 
Wed 13th Sep 2017 - Mt Ngungun
Babylon
2 A Walk In The Park Trad 50m Good
Good rock, similar rock to The Caves Route. Spectacular views.

 
5 4 Access Route Trad 10m Good
Very similar climbing to Lee's Bulbasaur.

 
5 Bulbasaur Trad 17m Good
Not a bad easy route. Didn't help that I did it in my hiking boots.

 
Wed 6th Sep 2017 - Mt Ngungun
Andromeda
14 Event Horizon - with Damien Cizauskas Sport 17m, 4
Good move at the top.

 
7 Ignore Adam, This Way Is Better - with Damien Cizauskas Sport 25m, 11
Very easy going.

 
Wed 23rd Aug 2017 - Mt Ngungun
Andromeda
12 11 Join The ACAQ And Become A Legend! (Join the ACAQ, become a legend!) - with Damien Cizauskas Sport 12m, 3
An OK route, somewhat over-graded tho.

 
13 Star Dust - with Damien Cizauskas Sport 17m, 4
Nice route. A tad over-graded.

 
Wed 9th Aug 2017 - Mt Ngungun
Andromeda
7 Nay Nay The Magical Green Medicine Man - with Damien Cizauskas Sport 10m, 3 Good
This was a very good introduction to lead climb again, after all these years. Worn-out old fart that I am.

 
7 Brazil - The Land Of Hot Wax - with Damien Cizauskas Sport 10m, 3 Good
Very nice.

 
Wed 10th Feb 2016 - Kangaroo Point
Right Main Wall
8 6 Spidermonkey Sport 15m, 8 Good
Justin belaying. Grade 8 is way over the top. More like a 4-5.

 
Sun 11th Aug 2013 - Kangaroo Point
Right Main Wall
6 8 Offal - with Dave D. Sport 14m, 5 Very Good
Pretty straight forward, nice rock & nice climbing at the grade. Will have to lead it on trad.

 
10 Stonehinge - with Dave Sport 12m, 3 Very Good
Good quality climb for KP, but too short. Crux move is pretty straight forward for a 10.

 
Tue 19th Jun 2012 - Kangaroo Point
Right Main Wall
10 Tactical Alert Stealth Hound - with Proude Hawkins Trad 15m Good
Proudie's new routes. This was a joy, with good moves & gear the whole way. A tad over graded, I'd say more like an 8.

 
Thu 28th Jul 2011 - Mt Tibrogargan
Desperation Wall
13 17 Zeitgeist (Zeitgeist p2) Sport 110m Very Good
Tricky crux had me careening back & forth for a while before nailing the sequence.

 
Tue 5th Jul 2011 - Mt Maroon
Grogan Wall
14 Instamatic Trad 50m Very Good
Set out to do a 30m 12, ended up with a 50m 14. Set up a belay half way up - Brian finished. The gear was pretty good on it. MEGA exposure.

 
Fri 1st Aug 2008 - Mt Beerwah
Short Cool Ones Wall
13 14 Burke's Backyard Trad 80m Good
With Ron & Terry. Terry lead p1. The run-outs on p2 were pretty sobering stuff and the tattered old rope anchors was even scarier!

 
Wed 30th Jul 2008 - Mt Tibrogargan
Shadow Glen
10 Inspiration Trad 13m Good
Ezy pezy, nice holds & moves.

 
Wed 18th Jun 2008 - Mt Maroon
Paparazzi Cliff
18 19 Luftwaffel p2, Cave version (Luftwaffel) Sport 15m, 8 Very Good
Some sexy moves coming out of the cave. Wouldn't like to have fallen whilst pulling up the rope to clip. Sharp crystals on the top section trashed my legs. Steve did well to 2nd cleanly.

 
18 19 Luftwaffel p2, Cave version (Luftwaffel) Sport 15m, 8 Very Good
Couple of sexy moves at the lip, wouldn't like to have fallen while I was pulling up the rope to clip. Some very sharp crystals on the top section. Steve did well to 2nd cleanly.

 
17 Brunhilde Sport 48m, 12 Very Good
With Steve. Been saving a trad onsight for a while now, only needed to clip the one bolt out of 12! Some nice moves on it.

 
Wed 11th Jun 2008 - Redcliffs
Send in the Clowns
17 Morpheus Sport 17m Very Good
Some sexy moves on this one had me quaking in my boots! When it's all over I thought it a bit soft for the grade, perhaps 16.

 
14 Wax On Wax Off Sport 17m, 6 Very Good
Very soft for the grade; I've done 10s that were as hard as this.

 
Tue 22nd Apr 2008 - Kangaroo Point
Left Main Wall
15 Crap Corner Trad 10m Good
I'd like to meet the chap who said "difficult exit", that's an understatement if ever. Almost gave up on the onsight, but fear of my belayer falling asleep wating forever with boredom urged me on. Dan & Ron made it look easy, the buggers.

 
15 Crap Corner Trad 10m Good
I'd like to meet the chap who said: "difficult exit", now that's an understatement. Almost gave up on the onsight, but fear of my belayer falling asleep waiting for his whimpy lead to finish the crux, urged me on. Dan & Ron made 2nding look easy, the buggers.

 
Sat 12th Apr 2008 - Noosa National Park
Cook's County
16 Twisted Sister Trad 12m Classic
What a pity these routes are so short, best moves on any 16, except maybe Watch Tower Corner. Felt like a 15, similar overhang to WIW at KP. Zarah belayed & 2nded.

 
Sun 30th Mar 2008 - Noosa National Park
Cook's County
16 Ashtrays Of Emotion Trad 12m Good
Got pretty pumped at the crux near the top. I reckon the RPs would have held in a fall. Dave 2nded.

 
Sun 2nd Mar 2008 - Mt Beerwah
Wayne's World
11 The Nut Sport 22m Very Good
With Dave. Pretty good quality beginner route.

 
Sun 16th Dec 2007 - Mt. Greville
The Wizard Sector Block 1 section 1
15 The Excavator Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
With Dan. Good quality route with nice rock & moves.

 
Sun 16th Dec 2007 - Mt. Greville
Little Springfield
13 Marge LHV Sport 13m Very Good
With Dan. Good quality rock & nice moves on this one.

 
Sun 23rd Sep 2007 - Kangaroo Point
Right Main Wall
12 Arete Trad 13m Good
Spotted this one when we did WDOP recently. Some adrenalin moves here & there with gear in the friable rock.

 
Thu 13th Sep 2007 - Kangaroo Point
Right Main Wall
12 Hernia Trad 10m Good
Pretty straight forward, but well protected crux. Alex from QUT belayed & 2nded.

 
Sat 7th Jul 2007 - Mt Beerwah
Short Cool Ones Wall
14 Gun Control Mixed trad 230m, 1 Good
First two Ps are nice, the next are just not worth the pain & effort of it. With Terry & Lillian.

 
Sat 16th Jun 2007 - Girraween
Second Pyramid
12 Follow The Rooster P1 Unknown 30m Classic
What a ripper line, beautiful flake to layback all the way up. Lindsey 2nded, but we bailed here, due to lateness in the day.

 
Sat 9th Jun 2007 - Moomank Buttress (private land)
12 The Stinger Unknown 40m Very Good
With Geoff. What a ripper line - the broken rock and bold start spoil it a bit, but definitely a winner.

 
Tue 15th May 2007 - Kangaroo Point
Right Main Wall
11 Play School Sport 10m, 3 Average
Tried to lead it trad only, but had to clip the 3rd bolt in the end. Some 10, more like a 12.

 
Sun 15th Apr 2007 - Mt Beerwah
Wayne's World
14 As If Mixed trad 25m, 2 Good
Dave belayed & 2nded.Short but sweet.

 
13 17 No Honk (No Honk p2) Mixed trad 57m, 12 Good
Dave lead it, I then lowered him & lead it myself = all trad gear.

 
13 Extreme Close Up Sport 30m, 4 Very Good
Dave belayed. Used the 1st bolt, then didn't clip another till the anchor, good trad all the way.

 
16 It Will Be Mine Mixed trad 52m, 8 Very Good
Last one of the day & I worked myself into a tiff at the 2 cruxes, got there in the end. Dave = p2

 
Sun 1st Apr 2007 - Mt Beerwah
Short Cool Ones Wall
14 15 Drop Zone Trad 75m Average
With Dave. Pitch 1 was where all the action is, a pretty solid 14. Thought otherwise during the ascent, but in retrospect, it's an old school 14. Some thought provoking moves at the crux. Dave=P2

 
Sun 25th Mar 2007 - Kangaroo Point
Left Main Wall
14 The Hyena's Heinie (Variant Start) (The Hyena's Heinie VS) Sport 18m, 5 Average
Dave belayed, nice beginner route.

 
Sun 25th Feb 2007 - Kangaroo Point
Left Main Wall
13 The Trad Rebellion Trad 16m Good
With Terry. My first trad lead at KP! Nicely spotted by Alex. Plenty of gear all the way, most of it good.

 
Sun 21st Jan 2007 - Mt Beerwah
Mosquito Wall
14 Dengue Fever Sport 15m, 4 Good
One of the easiest on the cliff.

 
14 Bug Off Sport 14m, 3 Average
First bolt is a bit of a stretch, but it's all good after that.

 
16 Rid Sport 14m, 4 Average
Terry belayed. With my long reach, it meant I could reach the jug, so it felt like a 14.

 
Tue 19th Dec 2006 - Arapiles
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
15 Bulger Trad 60m Very Good
With U.K. Dave. I lead P1. I was thinking I'd have to dog the crux move on P2, out thru the overhang, but it was just the one move, then it's jug city. Some go-ey moves on P1 for a 13.

 
Sat 16th Dec 2006 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
17 The Only Way To Fly Trad 15m Very Good
Spotted this one when I soloed Gwen. What a ripper little line it is and my first real onsight this trip - I'm chuffed! Tyson belayed.

 
Tue 12th Dec 2006 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face
14 Mantle Trad 90m Good
With Andrew. I lead P1. Typical Araps: pretty scarey for the grade, you wouldn't want to take it on if you were just leading at 14.

 
Mon 11th Dec 2006 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face
12 Watchtower Chimney Mixed trad 110m, 1 Good
With Andrew K. I lead P2&4. Talk about a 12 going on 15 - almost had to aid that chimney on P2! Maybee I'll just go home & sell my gear:-/

 
Sat 2nd Dec 2006 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
11 12 Hawk Trad 130m Classic
With Andrew. Got into a bind on the first belay & a good 30min delay. This is awfully daunting for a grade 10! Couldn't do the chimney top out & preferred to make my own exit, even tho it was harder, it was protected!

 
Sun 22nd Oct 2006 - Mt Maroon
Viewpoint Buttress
17 Atomic Bulldust Trad 62m Good
This would/will get 3* when it gets cleaned up a bit more. Terrif laybacks and moves all the way up involve a bit of everything. Brad 2nded.

 
Sun 24th Sep 2006 - Kangaroo Point
Right Main Wall
14 Pocket Calculator RH Variant-2 Sport 15m Good
Bit scary above the 3rd FH, had to run it out to top. Dave belayed but couldn't second.

 
Wed 12th Jul 2006 - Mt Maroon
Egg Rock
12 11 Scrambled Trad 15m Good
Nice moves on sharp crimpers, bit run out near top, gear's a bit fiddly.

 
10 Boiled Trad 18m Good
Nice moves and good gear all the way (great exposure near the top). Some lose blocks near the top make this a 1 * only.

 
10 Poached Trad 12m Good
With David from Spain. Bit tricky getting into the crack (for the grade), good after that. Good gear all the way.

 
Sun 4th Jun 2006 - Mt Maroon
North West Columns Legoland
8 Not Worth Naming Trad 15m Average
With Terry. The biggest problem was trying to retrieve the cam.

 
Wed 17th May 2006 - Mt Maroon
Viewpoint Buttress
13 On Safari Trad 18m Average
Bit grungy, but definitely the easiest climb at Viewpoint. Brad 2nded.

 
Sun 7th May 2006 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
14 Shit Heap Trad 10m Good
2nd rest. Trying out the multiple ascents thingy on thecrag.com - don't want to loose the original OSF. Terry lead it this time. I was so trashed I couldn't even get up it clean.

 
Sun 9th Apr 2006 - Kangaroo Point
Right Main Wall
16 Frontier Psychiatrist Sport 16m, 5 Good
Guy had warned me it was a sandbag at 16, but I think in retrospect, while it is sustained, I'm thinking maybe 17. Gabby belayed, Dave 2nded. Some blocks are definitely suspect, needs a bit more traffic.

 
Sun 9th Apr 2006 - Kangaroo Point
Left Main Wall
16 Without Council Approval Sport 18m, 5 Good
Spotted this one after I'd lead Slow Cure. A lot easier than that one, my feeling is 15. Dave belayed & 2nded.

 
Sun 19th Mar 2006 - Mt Maroon
The Breadloaf
12 Bread And Dripping Trad 15m Good
Terry & I had alternate leads at this crag. Thought it pretty go-ey for a 10, so hence the upgrade. Worth doing, but very short.

 
Sun 12th Mar 2006 - Mt Maroon
The Annex
14 Serendipity Trad 40m Good
Bit of a tricky & committing start for a 14, but the rest is very nice. Terry belayed & 2nded.

 
15 Hitchcock Railway Trad 40m Very Good
What a ripper of a climb! Well spotted Terry.

 
Fri 10th Mar 2006 - Kangaroo Point
Left Main Wall
14 That Boy Needs Therapy. Sport 15m, 4 Good
That rarest of beasts: A KP onsight! Typical KP lead: plenty of ledges to bugger yourself up on. Dave belayed & 2nded.

 
Sun 29th Jan 2006 - Mt Maroon
Viewpoint Buttress
17 Mexicana Trad 60m Don't Bother
First p. is all right, but 2p is pretty yukky. Dan belayed - we walked out leaving the gear for tomorrow as it was getting dark.

 
16 Outlaw Trad 28m Crap
Horrible. Crap gear, runout & dangerous above the 2nd ledge. Dan belayed & 2nded.

 
Mon 26th Dec 2005 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face
18 17 Oceanoid Trad 75m Classic
I lead the 1st P & Evan the 2nd. Eddy Irvine showed up when Evan was halfway up P1 so we belayed him up too. I liked the crux traverse put under the blocks. The Chimney on P2 was pretty go-ey for a 17 I thought. What a variety of climbing this one offers!

 
Thu 15th Dec 2005 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque
14 Minimus Trad 12m Good
I thought this awfully go-ey for a 14. Someone has ticked it as a 15 here, which is more consistent. Dan belayed & took a fall at the crux.

 
Wed 30th Nov 2005 - Arapiles
Atridae Muldoon Area
17 lphigenia Trad 45m Very Good
Despite being showered on at the belay ledge, May Lee 2nded up no troubles & lead 2p in fine style. I thought 1st bulge was thought provoking, till I found the super layaway on the R. 2nd bulge was like Electronic Flag, I cruised it, unlike what the guide says.

 
Sun 23rd Oct 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan
Celestial Wall
16 23 Voyager (Aphelion p1 / Voyager p1) Sport 95m Classic
Lead this p w. Suzy 2nding. What great rock with great moves on it. The next p. was daunting but again great rock & p3 looks pretty fab. Hope to have a go at it on 2nd soon.

 
Sat 8th Oct 2005 - Mt Tinbeerwah
Main Wall
18 Antipreneurialism (Antipreneurialism p1) Sport 73m, 16 Good
Only lead the first P of this one, then backed off the 1st belay, on Dave's request.

 
Sun 10th Jul 2005 - Mt Maroon
Viewpoint Buttress
17 Big Mac VF Trad 35m Very Good
This one eats big cams! Took my #5 & 6 as well as the rest. Fortunately Dave had a bunch of largish BD cams - I used the lot! The top out thru the overhanging block was exciting & took me a while to psych myself up to it, but what a rush when I got it! Dave 2nd'd. 2* from me: 1 for the bomber gear & 1 for the moves.

 
Wed 6th Jul 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan
Clemency Wall
16 Dreadnought Trad 380m Average
With NZ Mike. After dreaming about doing this for the last 4 years, I finally got my teeth into it, although it's not a climb I'd be in a hurry to repeat. Not a lot of gear needed - I took all my hexes with me & didn't use 1! Just cams (up to #4) & Aliens/Zeros and some nuts. Got to use my new #3 Zero for the first time and then lost my brandnew Reverso when it got away from me at a ledge. Took a small fall on P10, fortunately I was in a chimney & ended up sideways level with my gear. We only got off route twice on 12 pitches!

 
Sun 26th Jun 2005 - Mt Maroon
Virgin's Window Buttress
16 Jezebel Trad 17m Very Good
Very nice. Bit thin at the start, but then it eases into a very nice 16. Man am I glad for my tricams, I seem to be finding all sorts of placements for them where nothing else will fit. NZ Mike belayed, then I rapped down & he lead it.

 
Thu 23rd Jun 2005 - Mt Maroon
Viewpoint Buttress
14 15 Bailliere Trad 36m Good
I thought it was a bit full-on for a 14. Once I got past the crack tho, it eased to a nice climb. Scott belayed.

 
Sat 18th Jun 2005 - Redcliffs
Send in the Clowns
17 Kaleidoscope ArĂȘte Trad 12m Very Good
Belayed Mike up this then lead it. Tricky start, came off 3X before I nailed the sequence. Talk about a 21 start! NZ Mike belayed & encouraged.

 
Mon 13th Jun 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan
Celestial Wall
14 Heliosphere Sport 35m Very Good
This is a great line, spotted by Lee. The clips are in exactly the right places. Ben belayed, 2nd'd, then Red Pointed it himself in style, his 2nd 14 I believe. Well done!

 
Sat 11th Jun 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan
Desperation Wall
16 Line Of Credit Sport 70m, 23 Very Good
Quite good, wasn't expecting any where near the amount of FHs Darrin has put up on this route, & ran out 2 clips before the chains. Fortunately, I had 2 slings with me & used these. Marcus belayed & lead P2. After we had belayed Ben up, Dave showed up, so we lowered a rope down to him. He forgot to bring a rope, so it was a bit tricky getting down, but we got there in the end with some tricky juggling.

 
Sun 5th Jun 2005 - Brooyar
Point Pure
16 Cold Fusion Sport 25m Very Good
This is a pretty pumpy climb at the grade. Clipping that last bolt was very go-ey, thought I was going to come off on those last few metres, but hung on with grim determination & got there in the end. Flopped over onto the top-out & gulped in air for several minutes. Jake 2nd'd.

 
Sat 4th Jun 2005 - Brooyar
Eagle's Nest
16 The Pioneer Sport 40m, 11 Very Good
Lead this one after 3rding Jake & Graham up Tea For Two & Miss Kandy Kane. It's good, didn't need any of the gear I took with, was happy with the spacing of the bolts. The last moves at the top are gold! Jake belayed & 2nd'ed

 
15 Miss Kandy Kane Sport 20m, 5 Very Good
Started on this one as a warm-up. The moves are good and bolts not too far apart. Jake belayed then pink pointed it.

 
Sat 28th May 2005 - Mt Beerwah
Short Cool Ones Wall
17 Assumed Innocent Trad 60m Very Good
2nd Dave up P1. It sure was a lot cruisier this time round. Very nice climbing & good gear. 19.12.2004 The start was tricky, but the crux was scary, I had 4 dodgy pieces in at the crux, I doubt they would have held a fall & the last good piece was about 8m below me. Some go-ey moves and I made it. P2 is pretty cruisy but definitely worth doing. I did it in one using a 60 rope. Terry belayed & Lillian 3rd'd

 
16 Mr Lazyboots Trad 85m Good
Dave lead P1, up to the overhangs I ran the next 2Ps into 1.

 
14 Wandering Madness Mixed trad 60m, 1 Don't Bother
Run out on marginal gear, had me grovelling & snivelling my way up it. I wouldn't bother with it.

 
Fri 20th May 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan
Slider Wall
16 15 Such A Nice Monster Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
Wanted to do something backing down off the South Face Route as we were. A very nice climb, definitely worth the 3*. NIce one Gareth. Pete belayed many thanks.

 
Sun 15th May 2005 - Mt Beerwah
Short Cool Ones Wall
13 The Artful Dodger Mixed trad 70m, 1 Good
This was right next to Dark & Stormy, so we did it next. Good gear all the way - got to use & place my first Tricam - yoopee. Funny top anchors - 2 BRs. I think the idea is to walk off. Dave 2nd'd & lead the last 15m pitch

 
Thu 5th May 2005 - The Mushroom
14 Cockroach Corner Trad 12m Good
Nice climbing all the way up. Would be interesting to know what this climb was like 20 years ago or whenever it was put up & the fig tree non-existant or much smaller. Dan & Owen 2nd & 3rd. Peter belayed.

 
Sun 1st May 2005 - Mt Beerwah
Short Cool Ones Wall
10 Avenger Trad 80m Don't Bother
Just getting over the flu & Anti-B, so hence this duck of a climb. Terry lead P2 there was this ancient sling almost completely rotted away around an old dead bush! Lots of lose crappy rock on this climb made us think we were the first to climb it since Rob put it up in 71.

 
Mon 25th Apr 2005 - Mt Beerwah
Short Cool Ones Wall
8 Acquitted Trad 30m Average
Sure it's only a grade 8, but the 10m runout to the 1st real gear has you filling your pants. You'd definitely want to be confident at the grade before attempting this one. Dave 2nd'd

 
10 What A Dish Trad 25m Very Good
This one & "I'll Think of Something" are the best 2 low grade climbs on this cliff, with lots of gear, great holds & moves all the way up - a real pleasure. Just took it easy today with the flu & penicillin n all. Dave 2nd'd

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 195 ascents.