Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Fri 14th Oct 2016 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Little Purple Flowers | 17m, 6 | ||||
5.10 | FA ★★★ Reaching Conclusions | 19m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.11d | ★★ Hunter's Moon | 19m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.9 | ★ Rain | 16m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
5.5 5.5 R | Mama Said | 12m | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Buckaroo | 18m, 5 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Stop The Presses | 22m, 9 | ||||
5.11d 5.11c/d | ★★★ Chineese Aritmetic | 27m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.9 | ★★ Second Fiddle | 26m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 26th Nov 2015 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ A Grain of Sand - with Cindy Gray | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 10th Aug 2015 - South Platte | ||||||
Elevenmile Canyon Arch Rock | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ Hollow Flake | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 19th Jul 2015 - South Platte | ||||||
Elevenmile Canyon Springer Gulch | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Cleavage | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Sunkist - with Cindy Gray | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 12th Jul 2015 - South Platte | ||||||
Elevenmile Canyon Turret Dome | ||||||
5.5 | ★★ Schooldaze - with Cindy Gray | 140m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 21st Jun 2015 - South Platte | ||||||
Elevenmile Canyon Elevenmile Dome | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Moby Grape - with Cindy Gray | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A little lose, a little chossy, but not a bad line for a beginner's lead.
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Sun 22nd Jun 2014 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.8 | FA ★★ Little Khumbu - with Cindy Gray | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 9th Nov 2013 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.11a | ★ Catfish Stanglehold | 16m, 6 | ||||
Tue 29th Oct 2013 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Block Magic | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 12th Apr 2012 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Impact Zone | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Castaways | 13m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.7 | ★ First Aid | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b | ★ unknown #3, AKA: Eddie's Arete | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Trident | 17m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10c | ★★ Decompression Sickness | 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
5.11b | ★★ Walk The Plank | 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11b | ★★★ Barnacle Bill | 21m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
5.9 | Hand Job | Crap | ||||
5.11b | ★★ Persephone | 19m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 12th Apr 2012 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Parking Area Wall | ||||||
5.7 | Fat Boy's Pork Palace | ★ Good | ||||
This AIN'T Fat Boys Pork Palace. That name was given to another route over a decade before this line was climbed by anyone on this site, at least one of whom whoud know better. The line was dubbed "Franklin Traditions" by the guy who installed the anchor; yours truly. No FA info is available, but the founders of this crag (John Burcham, Eric Anderson, Ed Begoon, Mike Artz, George Powell, etc) had no knowledge of the routes existance or any personal ascents on the line.
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Sun 1st Apr 2012 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Parking Area Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Lunar Debris | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.10a | FA Odysseus | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10c | ★★ Two Blind Mice | 19m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.10a | ★ Squeal Like A Pig | 17m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Tue 14th Feb 2012 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
Gypsies Wall | ||||||
5.9 | FA ★ Horse With No Name - with Cindy Gray | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 10th Jan 2012 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Impact Zone | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Jake the Snake (unknown #9) | 13m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 14th Oct 2011 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.7 | Roll The Dice - with @drdoom | 16m, 5 | ||||
Mon 11th Jul 2011 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.10a 5.10c | ★ Apophis | 21m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 17th Jun 2011 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
Gypsies Wall | ||||||
5.9 | FA ★ Gypsies - with Cindy Gray | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First line bolted on this wall.
A bit sandy to start, nothing wrong with a stick clip for the first bolt, or leaving a 'biner to bail. Gear is cheap, broken bones expensive. |
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Sun 6th Feb 2011 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
Gypsies Wall | ||||||
5.9 | FA ★ Shaved Scamper - with Cindy Gray | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 23rd Nov 2010 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.8 | FA ★★★ Winter Harvest - with Cindy Gray | 19m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 14th Nov 2010 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.10- | FA ★★ Dangerous Freedoms - with @drdoom | 19m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 14th Oct 2010 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Second Rule | 21m, 9 | ||||
Tue 14th Sep 2010 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.10a | FA ★★ Bridgeburners - with Ryan Eubank | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Mon 16th Aug 2010 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Parking Area Wall | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Route of All Evil | 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 14th Aug 2010 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.7 | FA ★ Doctor Taco - with Michal | 14m, 4 | ||||
Established this route for Michal Macdaddy Stoneman for his (number withheld) birthday, jumped on the sharp end right behind Himself and Randy LaForce.
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Tue 6th Jul 2010 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.10c | ★ Golden Horseshoe | 19m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 21st May 2010 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.10 | FA ★★★ Angelfire - with @drdoom | 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
From such crumbly beginnings, a great route emerges.
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Mon 12th Apr 2010 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Contact Zone | ||||||
5.11a | The Grey Matter | Average | ||||
Sat 6th Mar 2010 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.10- | ★★★ Sea of Tranquility - with @drdoom | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Wed 23rd Dec 2009 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.8 | FA ★★ Super Natural - with @drdoom, Cindy Gray | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 14th Oct 2009 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.11b | FA ★★★ Disorientation 101 - with Cindy Gray | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Established and worked the line on lead and TR until shoulder failed. Made it through but could never link the moves without falling.
Then the Renovator, Ryan Eubank, crushed the moves and sent the first free ascent after a full day of trail work and a beer at the first Reed Creek Trail Daze and Send-a-thon. |
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5.10 | FA ★★ Still Laughing | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Theives In The Temple - with @drdoom, Cindy Gray | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 7th Sep 2009 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.10c | ★ One Page at a Time | 19m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 29th Aug 2009 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.10- | FA ★★ Dangerous Freedoms - with @drdoom | 19m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 23rd Aug 2009 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.10 | ★★★ Reaching Conclusions - with @drdoom | 19m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 4th May 2009 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.8 | FA ★★ Internal Dialogue | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sun 14th Sep 2008 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Welcome to Reed's Creek - with @drdoom | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another enjoyable climb with a bit of sandy rock to start.
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Thu 14th Aug 2008 - Reed's Creek | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Welcome to Reed's Creek | 14m, 4 | ||||
5.10 5.10 A - B | ★★ Still Laughing - with @drdoom | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 12th Apr 2008 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Contact Zone | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Moment Of Clarity | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.6 | ★ Sticks & Stones | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 25th Dec 2007 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Parking Area Wall | ||||||
5.7 | Fat Boy's Pork Palace | ★ Good | ||||
Who decided this route was called "Fat Boy's"? Ed Begoon and Mike Artz put up a route named Fat Boys several decades ago, and this is NOT it. If you don't know the name, DON'T make one up... you only reveal your ignorance regarding local climbing history.
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Tue 12th Jun 2007 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Impact Zone | ||||||
5.9 | FA ★★ The Last Laugh | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10 | ★ Almost Heaven | 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 12th Apr 2007 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Impact Zone | ||||||
5.9 | FA route deleted | 9m | Average | |||
5.9 | FA ★★ Wintermute | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 1st Apr 2007 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Parking Area Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Wild Wild West | 19m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A sweet variation start, albeit an occasionally green one. Hope the starting block never collapses... that would raise the grade at least to 10+. Another Mike Fisher classic!
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Fri 12th Apr 2002 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Impact Zone | ||||||
★★ unknown #7 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sun 12th Apr 1998 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Contact Zone | ||||||
5.10a | FA ★ Franklinstein | 19m, 7 | Average | |||
Sun 24th Nov 1996 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Impact Zone | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ One For One | 9m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 18th Oct 1995 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Green Wall - with Chris Riha | 69m | ||||
Led the route in darkness, without headlamp, because I wasn't going to wait four to six hours for the full moon to come over the top.
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Mon 16th Oct 1995 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.4 | ★★ Le Gourmet | 75m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 29th Sep 1995 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.2 | ★ Old Man's Route | 98m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 27th Sep 1995 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.7 | ★★★ West Pole | 41m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Tue 26th Sep 1995 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Crack of Dawn | 49m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sun 24th Sep 1995 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Bring on the Nubiles - with Michael Gray | 73m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 22nd Sep 1995 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Impact Zone | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Aqualung | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Shipwrecked | 23m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 15th Sep 1995 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Impact Zone | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Blood, Sweat, & Chalk | 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Thu 17th Aug 1995 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Impact Zone | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Neptune | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 24th Dec 1994 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.4 | ★ Humphrey's Head - with Chris Riha | 12m | ||||
Did the route in full conditions; 29 F with snow, 15-25 mph winds, near dark.
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Fri 28th Oct 1994 - Seneca | ||||||
The South End | ||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Ecstasy - with Melissa Wine | 69m | ||||
Thu 20th Oct 1994 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Impact Zone | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Rock Your World | 13m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Belayed John burcham on the FA and clipped his draws on my ascent.
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Wed 12th Oct 1994 - Seneca | ||||||
North Peak East Face | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Streptococcus | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 5th Oct 1994 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak East Face | ||||||
5.0 | Worrell's Thicket | 49m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 3rd Oct 1994 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Tomato | 47m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 23rd Aug 1994 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Traffic Jam | 12m | ||||
Fri 12th Aug 1994 - Nelson Rocks | ||||||
East Fin, West Face Stone Gallows Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Iroquois League (Iroquois Lieague) - with George Powell, Melissa Wine | 73m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Climbed what may have been the second or third ascent with George powell, the man who established the line, and Melissa Wine, the lass who helped me put up routes in Smoke Hole Canyon and Franklin.
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Wed 10th Aug 1994 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.2 | ★ Old Ladies' Route | 84m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 28th Jul 1994 - Seneca | ||||||
The Southern Pillar | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Electric Chair - with Ed Begoon | 21m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 18th May 1994 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.5 | ★★ Thais - with Hunt Protho, Melissa Wine | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Tue 12th Apr 1994 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Impact Zone | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Super Amazing Sea Monkeys | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10d | Keelhauled | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | Wasp Stop | Don't Bother | ||||
Crappy, loose, scary, and dangerous choss with about three real climbing moves. Glad this one is gone.
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5.8 | ★ Jump Start | 10m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.10b | ★★ Edge-U-Cate | 13m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 12th Apr 1994 - Franklin Gorge | ||||||
Contact Zone | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Potential Energy | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Wed 6th Oct 1993 - Seneca | ||||||
The Southern Pillar | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Rhododendron Corner - with Melissa Wine | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 4th Oct 1993 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Marshall's Madness - with Melissa Wine | 50m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Tricky, challenging, nerve-wracking and worth every second.
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Sun 3rd Oct 1993 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ The Burn - with Melissa Wine | 29m | ★★★ Mega Classic |