Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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Unknown | ||||||||
5.10b | ★★ Ciebola | Yosemite National Park | ★ Good | Mon 11th Jun 2007 | ||||
Partnered with Bill. SANDBAG. Interesting first pitch. Very thin gear start. Last bolt to anchors is exciting to a little scary. About 20 foot run to anchor. We didn't do sencond pitch due to the heat.
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5.10a | ★★ The Judgement Seat | 66m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Jun 2006 | |||
Climbed with Billy.
Seams a tad bit harder than 10a.
I would personally avoid belaying from the tree (everything here is loose which brings into question what the tree is really rooted in). Recommend using the belay ledge for Roy Chimney gap, rap there or to the block party ancors (60 meter rope does not make ground). |
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5.10d | Pinckney Route | New River Gorge | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Broken Neck (Broken Neck (aka Breakneck Direct)) | 24m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.7 | ★★★ Soler | 84m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.8 | ★ Block Party | 14m | Seneca | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Discrepancy | 17m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Bring on the Nubiles | 73m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
The route is very good. Be prepared for some runout and loose rock at the top.
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5.9 | ★★ Frosted Flake | 38m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Tomato | 47m | Seneca | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.9 | ★★★ High Test | 44m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | 2005 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Daytripper | 24m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Jun 2006 | |||
Climbed with Billy.
Excellent route.
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5.8 | ★★ Shagadelic | 130m | Yosemite National Park | ★ Good | Sun 10th Jun 2007 | |||
5.6 | ★ Roy Gap Chimneys | 61m | Seneca | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Ye Gods and Little Fishes | 27m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Castor | 64m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Lucky Streaks | 180m | Yosemite National Park | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Jun 2007 | |||
Partnered with Bill. I lead pitches 1,2,6.
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5.11a | ★★★ Spock's Brain | 30m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th May 2006 | |||
It may not look like it, but the gear is all there.
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5.5 | ★ Conn's East | 79m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ The Warlock | 15m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Climbin' Punishment | 70m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10c | ★ Sixteenth Rung | New River Gorge | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.0 | East Face to Gunsight Notch | 9m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.11c | ★★ The Changeling | 27m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Aug 2006 | |||
Climbed with Bill. Less than perfect conditions for this climb. High humidity and temperature made thin crux sections difficult.
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5.10c | ★★ Nip and Tuck | 43m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Sep 2006 | |||
5.12b | ★★ European Vacation | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Madmen Only | 26m | Seneca | Sun 17th Sep 2006 | ||||
Trad | ||||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Oz | 150m, 10 | Yosemite National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 12th Jun 2007 | |||
Partnered with Bill. I lead pitches 1 & 3. Pitch 1 is a little run out at the start, but all there. Pitch 3, dihedral is one of the most enjoyable pitches I've done.
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5.9 5.10b | ★★★ Crescent Arch | 150m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ★★★ Classic | Thu 14th Jun 2007 | |||
Partnered with Bill. I lead pitches 1 & 3. Excellent climb. 2nd & 3rd pitches are just plain fun and the 4th pitch is stellar.
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5.7 5.7 R | ★★ Hobbit Book | 200m, 1 | Yosemite National Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 12th Jun 2007 | |||
Partnered with Bill. We did this after OZ to round out the day. Fun climb. The run out face climbing on pitch 3 is nothing to worry about despite the description in Supertopo; very solid rock with easy climbing. I wouldn't expect anyone solid at 5.8 would have any problems, the issue would be keeping a cool head. You can also sling some of the flakes.
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5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite (New Yosemite (Climbing Under The Influence)) | 18m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Jul 2006 | |||
Excellent route, though a little short.
Mike K & Bill |
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5.10b | ★★★ Rod Sterling Crack | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 6th Aug 2006 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent line, dihedral under roof back to face crack.
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5.11d | ★★★ Leave It To Jesus | 34m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 4th Mar 2008 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Quick Robin, To The Bat Crack! (The Bat Crack) | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Aug 2006 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Deceiving more difficult than it looks from the ground.
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5.10c | ★★★ Finger Lockin' Good | 15m | Tennessee Wall | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 23rd Mar 2008 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent finger crack. Mega Classic of the area for a reason, although I think the 10c rating may be pushing it by two letter grades or more.
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5.10c | ★★ Points O' Contact | 27m | Tennessee Wall | ★★★ Classic | Fri 21st Mar 2008 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent finger to roof to finger crack.
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5.8 | ★★ The Burn | 29m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Digital Macabre | 23m | Tennessee Wall | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Mar 2008 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Pulling through the roof was not all that difficult and is not the crux of the climb.
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5.10a 5.9 | ★★★ Central Pillar of Frenzy | 170m | Yosemite National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Jul 2002 | |||
Climbed with Bill
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5.7 | ★★★ Pleasant Overhangs | 88m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
If you are looking for exposure, it is here.
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5.10d | ★★★ Serenity Crack | 110m | Yosemite National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Jun 2007 | |||
Partnered with Bill. Lead pitches 1&2. The bolt was removed from the first pitch protecting the first 30 feet of climbing. Managed to get in a .75 with two lobes at about 15 feet, and good piece right next to where the bolt used to be located.
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5.8 | ★★★ Fantasy | 40m | New River Gorge | Average | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Wham, Bam, Thanks For The Jam | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Aug 2006 | |||
Climbed wit Bill M. Starts on "spider wand" off width, wrap around corner about halfway to fun face crack.
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5.10b | Second Thoughts | 17m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11b | Aquatic Ecstasy | 12m | New River Gorge | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Marshall's Madness | 50m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Le Gourmet Direct (Le Gourmet Direct Start (to be merged with Le Gourmet Direct)) | 34m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Jun 2006 | |||
climbed with Billy
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5.11b | ★★★ Stone Wave | Tennessee Wall | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Mar 2008 | ||||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent climb, starts with in a roof and continues through roofy bulge with a crack that continues throught the head wall.
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5.10a | ★★ Mushrooms | 24m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Aug 2006 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Face Crack.
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5.10b | ★ Fantasy Direct Finish | 38m | New River Gorge | Average | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Alcoa Presents | 30m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Super Chicken | Yosemite National Park | ★ Good | Sun 10th Jun 2007 | ||||
First pitch not much to write home about. Second pitch very nice
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5.7 | ★★★ West Pole | 41m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.5 | ★★ Candy Corner | 29m | Seneca | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10a | ★ Sixth Sense | 17m | Seneca | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Conn's East Direct Start | 34m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ In Pursuit of Excellence | 27m | Tennessee Wall | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 23rd Mar 2008 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent corner hand crack, extremely fun.
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5.10a | ★★ Pollux | 12m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Burning Calves | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Aug 2006 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Face crack.
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5.7 | ★★★ Ecstasy | 69m | Seneca | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.7 | ★ Plastic Toys | 24m | Tennessee Wall | Average | Fri 21st Mar 2008 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Good climb for entry leaders, starts atop block.
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5.10a | ★★★ Cottonmouth | 27m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10a | ★ Ben Dunne | Meadow River | Average | Sun 4th Mar 2007 | ||||
5.10d | ★ Hot Flash | 18m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 24th Jun 2005 | |||
Trad. No anchors. Schetchy top out on moss roots.
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5.8 | ★★★ Triple S | 27m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.7 | ★★★ Green Wall | 69m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.7 | ★ Simple J. Malarkey | 52m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Orangeaid | 38m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Springboard | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Mellifluus | 27m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.7 5.7 R | ★★★ Snake Dike | 550m | Yosemite National Park | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Jul 2002 | |||
Date unknown, need to figure it out. Climbed with Bill. Beautiful long hike in, really fun climb to get you to the top, and a long hike out (longer if you are Bill and missing a toe nail at mile 2 of 10). We were both burnt to a crisp by the time we summited. Expect long run outs between bolts.
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5.4 | ★★ Ecstasy Junior | 46m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.7 | ★ Traffic Jam | 12m | Seneca | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.8 | ★★★ Frogland | 290m | Red Rock | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Sep 2006 | |||
Climbed with Bill. Six pitches. Fun, cruser climbing. Completed the route in about 3-3.5 hours.
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5.9 | ★★ Razor Worm | 32m | Tennessee Wall | Average | Sat 22nd Mar 2008 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Leisure crack climbing. Little short due to starting at the top of a 25' block.
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5.9 | ★★★ Super Crack | 30m | New River Gorge | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Finagle | 15m | Tennessee Wall | Average | Sun 23rd Mar 2008 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Roof start to face climbing, nothing overly special.
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5.11c | ★★★ The Spectre | 27m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.9 | ★ V-Slot (Ride A Rock Horse) | 17m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Aug 2006 | |||
Climbed with Bill. Really good Off Width climb. Good warm up to "Stuck in Another Dimension".
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5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 1st Jul 2006 | |||
One move wonder, but a fun route none-the-less.
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5.10a | ★★★ Cakewalk | 30m | Tennessee Wall | ★★★ Classic | Fri 21st Mar 2008 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Nice dihedral finger crack that transitions to face finger crack about 1/3 of the way up.
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5.10a | ★★ Precious Orr | 24m | Tennessee Wall | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Mar 2008 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Vert Nice wide crack system to the top, small roof about 1/2 of the way that turns in to a buldging head wall. The climb is located on the other side of the gully from Golden Locks (to the right if looking at Golden Locks).
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5.8 | ★ Screamer Crack | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Aug 2006 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Offwidth, dihedral.
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5.10c | ★★ Rapscallion's Blues | 18m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 1st Jul 2006 | |||
One of the best trad routes I've done. Start with a low angle, steep dihedral. Reducing angle leads to more tenuous face moves, to finish with some fun roof moves. Belayed Bill, he cleaned on the way down for me to attempt.
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5.8 5.9 | ★★★ Golden Locks | 30m | Tennessee Wall | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Mar 2008 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Nice face finger crack to top, fairly leisure.
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5.10a | ★★ Anal Clenching Adventures | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Jul 2006 | |||
Climbed with Mike K, and Bill.
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5.10a | ★★★ Crack of Dawn | 49m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.10d | ★★★ Serenity Crack | 110m | Yosemite National Park | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Jul 2002 | |||
I led 1st and 3rd pitch. Bill led second. I slipped while transitioning cracks on second pitch.
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Sport | ||||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Apollo Reed | 27m, 11 | Summersville Lake | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Schneezal | 30m, 10 | Meadow River | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Apr 2007 | |||
The book states 8 bolts, plan for two extra bolts and the full use of a 60m rope.
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | New River Gorge | Average | Sun 17th Sep 2006 | |||
5.11b | ★★★ The Legacy | 27m, 10 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | 24m, 9 | New River Gorge | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Blackhappy | 26m, 9 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Sep 2006 | |||
Stout 12b.
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5.13b | ★★★ Mercy Seat | 9 | Summersville Lake | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Jun 2007 | |||
With Mikey as my belay talisman!
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5.13b | ★★★ The Pod | 9 | Summersville Lake | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Homer Erectus | 26m, 9 | New River Gorge | 2003 | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Kinesthetica | 27m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 17th Sep 2006 | |||
5.12a 5.12b | ★★★ Thieves In The Temple | 24m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 |