Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 18th Oct 2009 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★★ Dunes | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great cruisey climbing. Wouldn't necessarily recommend it to a beginner (esp run out start)
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Sun 4th Oct 2009 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Llareggub | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Technical goodness
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Sat 3rd Oct 2009 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
18 | ★★ Creon - Tales of Brave Ulysses | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Awesomeness
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Sat 3rd Oct 2009 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
16 16 R | ★★ The Confession | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun.
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Sat 15th Aug 2009 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs John's Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★ Shanghai | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bit spicy at the start, but nice wall climbing
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Sat 25th Jul 2009 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
14 | ★★ Driftwood/Antigone | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great link up
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Sat 25th Jul 2009 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Hyperbole Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Hyperbole | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Good fun.
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Mon 17th Nov 2008 - Ben Lomond | ||||||
Northern Escarpment The Pavillion | ||||||
17 | ★ Pavane | 68m | ★★ Very Good | |||
P2 is awesome. P3 is pox. The whole climb felt like a giant game of jenga. pull the wrong stacked block and the whole cliff will end up on the scree slope. Should have brought RPs.
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Sun 16th Nov 2008 - North Esk | ||||||
Riverbend | ||||||
17 | ★★ Powder Finger | 17m | ★ Good | |||
note too bad. entirely laceable.
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Sat 18th Oct 2008 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
16 15 | ★ Lady Dihedral | 78m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easier than lamplighter's second pitch. Nice position.
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Sun 11th May 2008 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
20 19 | ★★ The Desired | 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing. Belayed from major diagonal. Total climb length = 60m (not 90m). Bit greasy in places.
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Sat 10th May 2008 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Siamese Crack | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The jams are so good
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Sat 19th Apr 2008 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Yo Yo Variant Finish | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had done Yo Yo regular before, so just for the LHV crack. Pretty straight forward for the grade.
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Mon 7th Apr 2008 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
14 | ★★ Joseph | 46m | ★ Good | |||
P1 and P3. Marta P2. P3 is crux but the crap rock detracts from an otherwise pleasant beginner route to the rap station.
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Sat 22nd Mar 2008 - Mt Rosea | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
14 15 | ★★★ Debutante | 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Awesome. Watch the rock on P2 - esp the diamond shaped piece. P4 is stellar.
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Fri 21st Mar 2008 - Mt Rosea | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
11 12 | ★ Mixed Climb | 120m | ★ Good | |||
Vegetated start, dirty finish, with a fair bit of shrubbery in between. Where there is rock it is quite good climbing!
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Sun 3rd Feb 2008 - The You Yangs | ||||||
Great Circle Drive East Nightfall Pinnacles Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ Nightfall | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great moves and pro.
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Mon 28th Jan 2008 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Chimney Pot Gap Mountain Lion Vanya Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Decapitating Tweety Birds | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good cruisey fun.
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Mon 28th Jan 2008 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Chimney Pot Gap Mountain Lion | ||||||
17 | ★ Wildcat | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Looks grade 10 climbs grade 17. Would be solid at "15".
|
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Sun 2nd Dec 2007 - Camels Hump | ||||||
Omega Block Area Lower Tier | ||||||
18 16 | ★ Split Images | 20m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Not sure which this one is. The bolted slab?
|
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Sun 25th Nov 2007 - The Cathedral Range | ||||||
North Jawbone | ||||||
17 | ★★ Xanthene | 94m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic crux pitch. Fun for the whole family. A little toasty in the sun.
|
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3 | Route Two | 77m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I don't know how to grade a grade 3, but it is harder than that.
|
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14 | ★ Greg's Direct | 48m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pleasant enough. Reign in the hype.
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Sat 10th Nov 2007 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
harder than it looks. solid for the grade.
|
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Fri 9th Nov 2007 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Elastic RURP | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Surprisingly little jamming.
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15 | ★ Bad Company | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
18 | ★★★ Iron Mandible | 24m | ★★★ Classic | |||
spiced start.
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Sat 15th Sep 2007 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Crooked Mile | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
pretty cruisey
|
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Sat 15th Sep 2007 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Rats Alley | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tarantula | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
much of ze pump ya?
|
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Sun 9th Sep 2007 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
12 | ★ Iago | 45m | Crap | |||
I wouldn't want it to be my first 10.
|
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Sun 9th Sep 2007 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
19 | ★★ Acapulco Gold | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic holds. Fantastic Gear. Great moves.
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Sat 8th Sep 2007 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
15 | ★★ Ejaculation | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wow. Didn't see that coming. Awesome fun.
|
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Sat 8th Sep 2007 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Happy Ending | 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
the first move had me in stitches laughing
|
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Mon 27th Aug 2007 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos The French Crack Area | ||||||
16 17 | ★★ French Crack | 11m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A real sweetheart.
|
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Mon 27th Aug 2007 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
18 | ★★ Transatlantic Crossing | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Marta P1 (tech crux). Me P2 (physical crux). Holy crap batman what a stonker! P2 got me horizontal and loving it (well looking back on it I guess)
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Sun 26th Aug 2007 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
17 17 R | ★★ Checkmate | 85m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Me P1&3. Marta P2. Awesome! Not as scary as the guide book makes it out... or is it?
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Sat 18th Aug 2007 - Summerday Valley | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ The Changeling | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
16 | ★ Rats Tail | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 28th Jul 2007 - Werribee Gorge | ||||||
Falcons Lookout Main Boardwalk | ||||||
16 | ★ Androcles | 27m | Average | |||
A couple of good moves then resist the urge to vomit
|
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Sun 22nd Jul 2007 - The Black Range | ||||||
Black Ian's Rocks | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Subpoena | 21m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Very very cool. Climbed differently to what I expected.
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Sat 21st Jul 2007 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Flying Blind Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Who Was That Masked Man? | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Too much fun. One committing bit.
|
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Sat 16th Jun 2007 - The Black Range | ||||||
Black Ian's Rocks | ||||||
18 | ★★ Chancery Lane | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great fun.
|
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Sat 5th May 2007 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
14 14 R | ★★ Hot Flap | 170m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Marta P1,4. Me P2,3 and roof finish. Great value. Rebolted.
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Sat 10th Feb 2007 - Werribee Gorge | ||||||
Falcons Lookout Main Boardwalk | ||||||
16 | ★ Hadrian | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Enoyable
|
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20 19 | ★ Hadrian Direct Finish | 12m | ★ Good | |||
The obvious finish, but very soft. Maybe 18?
|
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Fri 26th Jan 2007 - Fortescue Bay | ||||||
The Moai | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Sacred Site | 30m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Position, technical moves and pleasant. What more could you want.
|
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20 | ★★ Blunt Instrument | 20m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great fun, not the best warm up though.
|
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Fri 29th Dec 2006 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
18 17 | ★★ Garden Gnome | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nothing too hard really. Just pleasant climbing.
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Thu 28th Dec 2006 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | ||||||
18 | ★★ Gilt Edged | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Solid. Techy and surprisingly sustained despite the ledges.
|
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Wed 27th Dec 2006 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Watchtower Crack (The Watchtower Crack) | 95m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Me P1&3. Marta P2&4. Everything everyone else says! An absolute ripper with techy moves in places.
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Sat 2nd Dec 2006 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Stoat Steps Out | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Good fun.
|
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Sat 2nd Dec 2006 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
15 | ★★ Bulger | 60m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of the best at the grade, but how do you grade it?
|
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Sat 2nd Dec 2006 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
18 17 | ★★ Moby Dick | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Good, fun, face climbing
|
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Sat 18th Nov 2006 - Camels Hump | ||||||
Omega Block Area Omega Block | ||||||
17 | ★★ Witch | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Solid move
|
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Sun 12th Nov 2006 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I didn't believe the rumours, but they were right. Softer moves than some 17s.
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Sat 11th Nov 2006 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Mari | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hot and humid makes for a little greasy jamming...
|
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Sun 5th Nov 2006 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | ||||||
16 | ★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant | 70m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing. Pulled our rap rope over to get off the top of boulder of P2.
|
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Sun 29th Oct 2006 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Grey and Green Walls The Green Wall | ||||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
sensational sustained slopeyness
|
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Sat 28th Oct 2006 - Summerday Valley | ||||||
Bowler Boulder | ||||||
18 | ★ Hit and Run | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
More strenuous than I thought it would be. Gotta love that last move...
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Sat 28th Oct 2006 - Summerday Valley | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Halfway Hotel | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Not a great warm up. Fiddly gear
|
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Sat 9th Sep 2006 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Falcon | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
LHV
|
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Sat 9th Sep 2006 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★ Cantata | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Three punchy bits. Marta P1. Me P2.
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Sat 26th Aug 2006 - Werribee Gorge | ||||||
Falcons Lookout Main Boardwalk | ||||||
17 | ★ Conscientious Pontius | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty straight forward jamming
|
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Sat 19th Aug 2006 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Lemmington | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First Araps 19. Lurvely...and a little spicey.
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Sat 19th Aug 2006 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | ||||||
18 | ★★ Howling Wolf | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Nice enough
|
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Sun 13th Aug 2006 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Rack | 13m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Had to fight for this one. A little rusty, would have liked smaller hands...
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Sun 13th Aug 2006 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | ||||||
18 | ★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Don't overthink it...
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Sat 12th Aug 2006 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
14 | ★★ Salamander | 120m | ||||
Me P1,3,5. Marta had the good pithces. P3 has good gear where you need it.
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Sat 17th Jun 2006 - Summerday Valley | ||||||
Back Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Overkill | 23m | ★ Good | |||
Soft if you are above about 5'10". Fun enough
|
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Sun 30th Apr 2006 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
Gibraltar Peak Southern Tablelands | ||||||
18 | ★★ Scarborough Fair | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Solid. Fantastic sustained and varied climbing. Keeps you working to the top with a thought provoking runout.
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Tue 25th Apr 2006 - Orroral area | ||||||
Booroomba Rocks North Buttress Determinant Sector | ||||||
15 | ★★ Determinant (original) (Determinant) | 140m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Some beta (but it's in the guide anyway). Classic alpine style. Me P2(not as scary as you would think)&4. Steve P1&3. Finished up Terminant Corner.
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Fri 14th Apr 2006 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Abseil Gully | ||||||
12 | ★★ The Eyrie | 45m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Nice. P1. Marta P2
|
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Sat 21st Jan 2006 - South Coast | ||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | ||||||
17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick | 12m | Average | |||
Hot, humid and hot. Did I mention it was hot? three stars? only for the area maybe. Far from substantial but nice, unique setting.
|
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Sat 7th Jan 2006 - Blue Lake | ||||||
Elephant Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Mindbender | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Crag classic. Awesome moves.
|
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Fri 30th Dec 2005 - Orroral area | ||||||
Booroomba Rocks North Buttress Central Slabs | ||||||
15 | ★ Baryon | 80m | ★ Good | |||
Flake is very, well, bendy... 35 degrees in the shade
|
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15 | ★ After the Reiving | 30m | Average | |||
Took the direct start up the hard slab. Just adequate pro. Not worth a star (considering how few ACT Granite gives). 35 degrees in the shade
|
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Thu 29th Dec 2005 - Orroral area | ||||||
Orroral Ridge Honeysuckle Crag Main Crag | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Deep Space - Sickle | 90m | ★★★ Classic | |||
33 degrees in shade. Marta led P1. Me P2&3. P2 serious but not technical. Repositioned belay for P3 to below Icy Universe. Guide book wrong. Look for thin diagonal down and right from the base of the Sickle hand crack.
|
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Sun 18th Dec 2005 - Orroral area | ||||||
Booroomba Rocks South Buttress Integral face | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Integral Crack | 48m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
My birthday present to myself. First saw this 11 years ago. Very patient...
|
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Sat 26th Nov 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
14 | ★★ Mantle | 90m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Poor gear on first pitch. 1st belay unnerving off a single stacked block. 2nd pitch extended to 60m and was fantastic. Light on for gear off the first belay ledge. Bolt unnecessary by modern standards.
|
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Fri 25th Nov 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
12 | ★ Bygone | 30m, 1 | Don't Bother | |||
bad rock. not much gear. ordinary boring climbing. Do Ali's instead...
|
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Thu 24th Nov 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Voodoo | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome pumpy face climbing. Don't do what I did and climb right past the rings up the top and to just below the roof...
|
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Wed 23rd Nov 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites | ||||||
18 | ★★ Huey | 16m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Equal with Death Row for the best single pitch 18 at Arapiles.
|
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Wed 23rd Nov 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ Cheops | 20m | ★ Good | |||
18 start. One physical move.
|
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Tue 22nd Nov 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
16 | ★★ Saracen | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Manky 2nd half to first pitch - rest is stellar. Great position. If confident could do in 2 55m pitches...
|
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Mon 21st Nov 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque | ||||||
14 | ★ Minimus | 12m | ★ Good | |||
one last climb before tea
|
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Mon 21st Nov 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Castle Crag | ||||||
17 | ★★ Swinging | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Couple of nice moves then it's all over. Pleasant.
|
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Mon 21st Nov 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | ||||||
19 20 | ★ Wild Oats | 70m | ★★★ Classic | |||
15M1. Run out in middle of first pitch. traverse on second pitch is stellar - felt like rohanda at Point Perp!
|
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Mon 21st Nov 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
18 17 | ★★★ Oceanoid | 75m | ★★★ Classic | |||
P1 only to date. Ring bolts at anchor. Fantastic, committing and thought provoking.
|
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Sun 20th Nov 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Pan Grove | ||||||
16 | ★ Celeste | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely steep corner with great gear and climbing. Shame about the easy start and top. Ring bolts 5 m above the top of the corner.
|
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Mon 3rd Oct 2005 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Petrie's Gully | ||||||
17 | ★★ The Great Pretender | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great wall climbing in a great position.
|
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Sun 2nd Oct 2005 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | ||||||
20 | ★★ Khe Sanh | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice rock, nice moves, nice place.
|
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19 18 | ★★ Monitor Madness | 50m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great wafting (no really)...
|
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Sat 1st Oct 2005 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | ||||||
17 | ★★ Sap | 55m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First pitch (15) only. Good climbing.
|
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17 | ★ Dan the Bulldog | 60m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice first pitch.
|
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14 | ★ Death-bed Confession | 60m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Good clean fun. One pitch (50m) to the tree.
|
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Sat 24th Sep 2005 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Superliner Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Superliner | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A truly fantastic climb. Long and technical. Crux move protected with cams.
|
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Fri 9th Sep 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Eurydice | 65m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A great finish to the week. Two superb pitches in a great position.
|
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Wed 7th Sep 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Disconcerting rock in places
|
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Wed 7th Sep 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
17 | ★★ Surface To Air | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Straight forward with great gear. Soft.
|
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Wed 7th Sep 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece (The Golden Fleece) | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome. Never felt so confident above gear.
|