Ascents as various tick types by Jim Olsen

Grade at first two bolts was really 5.8

Bouldery holds, kind of like climbing in the gym.

Wanted to lead it, but only brought some draws and tricams.

Hard for a 5.7, more like a 5.8.

Easy 5.7 with nice holds all the way, but limited places to place pro.

Better protected lead than Tuna melt

Pillars is gettin' easier to do.

Feeling the afternoon sun off the desert varnish. Last climb of the day.

Actually part of this is an offwidth, which Carl managed to avoid by stemming out further. On the other hand I wanted to practice offwidths.

I'm sure someone has done this before. It's really fun and funky.

Fritz firsted it on toprope. Then I toproped it

I first planned to climb about 6 to 10 feet to the right on the bulge of the buttress, but questioned the rock quality there. Twelfth of Never has good rock, but we didn't clean a few loose rocks on nearby ledges.

Good, but over too soon.

FFA. Wow. I discovered this one purely by accident; luckily got off route on the Guillotine. The start of the second pitch has a lot of character. Bring a little sling material and a 3 or 3.5 cam for the second belay spot (it's an adiquite belay only).

I loved the finger/hand crack on the second pitch.

Up nose to chains. Top a bit ledgey.

Better than it looks. Finished on lumpy face to right.

The route went pretty quick, but the rock was not the best: a little crumbly and dirty.

Four days after climbing here the big Las Conchas fire broke out. Hope it didn't burn out the climbing area.

Seconded Gunther Worrlein. Recovered Greg Holman's gear left on chains earlier when a big rainstorm hit. End of road in gullied out.

Repeated climb varying route. Variations interesting too.

Aah! In the shade when I climbed it. So much cooler than Hellboy.

First pitch good. Second pitch, tight chimney.

Warm day, but we climbed on the north side of Mosaic. Doh! It was kinda cold, guess why they call it summer dreams. Nice climb 5.7+ friction to crack to boilerplate. A couple tricams between 1.5 and 4.0 made protecting the climb easy.

It's like being a bug climbing a hacksaw blade edge

We arn't sure of the grade of this climb; no guidebook mentions of it, but its so good it had to be done by someone.

Some rope drag. One of my placements didn't help that. Mostly slinged chickenheads for pro.

Two and 1/2 practice ascents. Had to work out the crux. A family with two subteen girls climbing something slightly tougher, so I can't climb as good as a fifth grader.

After leading Chickenshit I followed Fritz up Chickenheads. He got some rope drag so I did a short exit lead as a thunderstorm started to dump on us. It rained twice that day.

Mostly fun face climbing, some on chickenheads. It thunderstormed twice. We climbed before storms, subsequent climb was between storms.

I led the first, very fun, marginally offwidth crack and Fritz led the second offwidth.

There are some good moves on this route, but you have to flip the rope 2 times (the second flip is a pain) and rock on part of the route is pretty friable (loose).

After taking a 5.8 lead it was time to relax, i thought, and toproped this one. This climb didn't seem much easier than the one i just did.

Nice variety of moves on a sport climb. Did it twice. New guidebook overrates it a bit (5.8). Don't believe it.

Route alternates between loose, blocky stuff and good rock.

We had to go offroute because it probably rained the day before and some of the wet streaks were where one would put their feet. There was a nice foot move on the first pitch. The second (half) pitch had some nice friction/minimal hold work; good for my concentration. This variation appears more difficult than the standard Opal route. We found that Hills guidebook said 150' from the top rappell bolts. It's more like 175'.

Started out climbing in wrong spoot, but Fritz soon figured it out and I started out again on route. Good climb, but 5.7 not sustained, just at three short sections. Afterward we started something else and got rained out.