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Ascents as various tick types as trad by Melwin Quacke

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 206 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Rathen Große Gans Östlicher Turm der Jugend
VIIc Talweg - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 55m, 3 Good
Lower part often damp. Somewhat sketchy to first small thread, then easier to first bolt. Crux after 3rd bolt.

 
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Rathen Große Gans Westlicher Turm der Jugend
VIIb Ü 100 - with Danilo Hondo Trad Good
Crispy, but well protected with a V-thread before clipping second bolt. The rest is easy.

 
IV Neuer Übergangsweg - with Danilo Hondo Trad Average
The stepover is mellow. Traversing left involves some botany, the remaining part is reasonably protectable.

 
Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Rathen Große Gans Eule
VIIb Kleine Nordostwand - with Tilli Trad Average
No reasonable pro before first bolt, then better.

 
VIIb ~VIIc Spielplatz - with Tilli Mixed trad 20m, 2 Good
Reachy to second bolt, crimpy past it. Sandy but easy topout.

 
Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Nördliches Harzvorland
Teufelsmauer Ballenstedter Teufelsmauer Großer Gegenstein North face
VI Kalte Finger - with Seth Mixed trad 9m, 1 Good
The lid of the roof takes a small stopper.

 
II Treppenkamin - with Seth Trad 9m Good
...with all variants (left, right, inner, outer)

 
Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Rathen Kleine Gans Gansturm
IV Westweg - with Danilo Hondo Trad Don't Bother
Short, sandy, hardly protectable.

 
Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Rathen Kleine Gans Hinterer Gansfels
VIIc Easy Abendvorstellung - with Danilo Hondo Trad Don't Bother
Crispy at the start, vegetated at the top.

 
Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Rathen Große Gans Höllenhund
VIIc Erwähnung - with Tilli, Torsten Mixed trad 1 Good
Somewhat tricky start, especially for finding a good position for the belayer. Then easier but sustained, slightly sandy topout.

 
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Rathen Kleine Gans Gänseei
III Hard Alter Weg - with Danilo Hondo Trad Average
Surprisingly hard to find holds on the other side.

 
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz
Rathen Kleine Gans Plattenstein
VIIa Hard Zweiter Platz - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 20m, 1 Don't Bother
quite dirty and short

 
Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet
Wilzschhaus Straßenwärter
6- Hard Schmale Wand - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 18m, 2 Classic
Solid rock, not too sharp. Consistent grade. Some Trad pro recommended.

 
Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet
Bockau Bockauer Wurzelspitze
2 Alter Weg - with Danilo Hondo Trad Average
Crumbly with lots of sharp crystals.

 
Sun 28th May 2023 - Weser-Leine-Bergland
Ith Scharfoldendorfer Klippen Kelchstein
2 Hard Gipfeltürmchen - with Lina Trad Average
Single-move boulder. Not worth the risk tipping the entire structure into the void.

 
4 Westkante - with Lina Trad Very Good
Nice moves, well protectable, cool rock structure. Sadly, a bit short.

 
Sun 28th May 2023 - Weser-Leine-Bergland
Ith Scharfoldendorfer Klippen Kinaststein
4+ Südwestkante Trad Very Good
Friendly route taking lots of pro.

 
Sat 27th May 2023 - Weser-Leine-Bergland
Ith Lüerdisser Klippen Haderturm
3 Südostriss - with Lina Trad Good
6- ~6 Rechter Südwestriss Trad Good
Assuming this is the same as "Rechter Talriss"

 
6- Easy Direkte Westkante - with Lina Mixed trad 25m, 3 Mega Classic
concentrated crux past bulge, the rest pure pleasure

 
4 Hard Nordwestverschneidung - with Lina Mixed trad 25m, 2 Very Good
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Dippoldiswalder Heide
Felsgruppe am Einsiedlerstein Einsiedlerstein Routen
II Künstlicher Weg - with Lina, Lewin Trad Good
I Hard Alter Weg - with Lina, Lewin Mixed trad 1 Good
Mon 31st Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz
Bielatal Nymphenbad Schildbürger
VIIa Hard Zeppelin - with Danilo Hondo Trad Good
reachy, two-move-problem

 
Mon 31st Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz
Bielatal Nymphenbad Blatt
VIIc Prüfungszeit - with Danilo Hondo Trad
Nice, but very defined. Bailing out to the right makes it easier.

 
Mon 31st Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz
Bielatal Nymphenbad Falkenwand
VIIa Juniweg - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 30m, 2 Very Good
Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz
Bielatal Dürrebielegrund Ringelspitze
VIIb Hard Eigentliche Westkante - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 25m, 2 Classic
crux at R, take thin sling to protect exit

 
Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz
Bielatal Nymphenbad Zwei Horzel
VIIb !Neuer Talweg - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 30m, 3 Good
somewhat sketchy to first bolt

 
Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz
Bielatal Nymphenbad Pfifferling
VIIa Südverschneidung - with Danilo Hondo Trad Classic
versatile moves with stemming, jamming and laybacking. Well protectable.

 
Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz
Bielatal Nymphenbad Glatter Kegel
VIIa Nordwestriss - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 15m, 1 Classic
well protectable tricky starting moves, then awesome jamming

 
VIIIa Wilde Orchidee - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 30m, 3 Very Good
somewhat sketchy moves on mediocre pro first bolt

 
VIIc ~VIIb Mimose - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 2
sandy and somewhat brittle at the start, but juggy and two sling placements close to the lid.

 
Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz
Bielatal Nymphenbad Falkenwand
VIIc Hard Joint Venture - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 30m, 2 Very Good
somewhat sketchy between 2. and 3rd bolt

 
Fri 2nd Sep 2022 - Adršpašské skály
Město Pidižena
III Maxikozy Trad 5m Don't Bother
Fri 2nd Sep 2022 - Adršpašské skály
Město Pidimužík
II Severozápadní komín - with Andreas Trad 10m Average
Thu 1st Sep 2022 - Křížový vrch
Křížový hřeben Ústecká
VI V Stará cesta Mixed trad 22m, 2 Very Good
Tricky start, then easier. Final steep arete has good jugs

 
Thu 1st Sep 2022 - Křížový vrch
Křížový hřeben Apollo
VIIc V Měsíční procházka - with Andreas Mixed trad 12m, 1 Good
hard start, non-trivial finish. Clipping the ring bolt can be protected in hole with 10 mm sling or UFO

 
Thu 1st Sep 2022 - Křížový vrch
Jižní věže Brek
VI VIIa Rozlejzačka Mixed trad 15m, 2 Very Good
"No worries" slab

 
Thu 1st Sep 2022 - Křížový vrch
Jižní věže Kocour
VI Jižní hrana - with Andreas Mixed trad 10m, 1 Good
start balancy but well protected with 5 mm sling

 
Thu 1st Sep 2022 - Křížový vrch
Jižní věže Hodinář
V III Západní stěna - with Andreas Mixed trad 8m, 1 Average
sandy, stiff for the grade

 
Thu 1st Sep 2022 - Křížový vrch
Jižní věže Pahorek
II Sestupová Trad Don't Bother
sandy

 
Wed 31st Aug 2022 - Rudawy Janowickie
Janowicki Grzbiet Pieklisko Diabelski Kościół Kiklop
V Droga klasyczna - with Andreas Mixed trad 12m, 1 Good
Harder than it looks, coarse, large cam for the final meters soothes the mind.

 
Wed 31st Aug 2022 - Rudawy Janowickie
Dolina Janówki Grupa Pieca i Mostu Skalny Most
6 VI.1 Filar północny (I wyciąg) (Filar północny) - with Andreas Trad 30m Very Good
Crux with some nice jamming

 
7- VI.1+ Ostrze filara północnego (I wyciąg) (Ostrze filara północnego) - with Andreas Mixed trad 15m, 5 Very Good
Demanding finger locks to the thank-god root of the spruce. Accidentally took the exit of the route, which was quite a runout over a lychen-covered slab.

 
Mon 29th Aug 2022 - Sokoliki
Krzywa Turnia
IV Kroczek - with Andreas Mixed trad 18m, 1 Classic
impressive, exposed, watch for ropedrag

 
Mon 29th Aug 2022 - Sokoliki
Chatka
V Grzybowe ryski Trad 12m Good
cool laybacking, solid pro

 
Mon 29th Aug 2022 - Sokoliki
Sukiennice
IV+ Kant Sukiennic - with Andreas Mixed trad 25m, 3 Very Good
versatile

 
V+ War. Wprost - with Andreas Trad 19m Very Good
nice jamming

 
Mon 29th Aug 2022 - Sokoliki
Duży Michał
IV+ Zacięcie spadającej wiertarki - with Andreas Mixed trad 10m, 2 Average
reasonable pro

 
Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Nördliches Harzvorland
Teufelsmauer Timmenröder Teufelsmauer Hamburger Wappen
IV Südostweg Mixed trad 25m, 1 Good
Marvellous cliff, but really soft and sandy rock, making the actual climbing not too enjoyable.

 
Fri 22nd Apr 2022 - Nördliches Harzvorland
Teufelsmauer Blankenburger Teufelsmauer Großvater
6- 4+ Gipfelriss Trad 8m Good
climbed as shown in "Harz Rocks 2" (through the face not using the left chimney) this is steep an way beyond 4+

 
4 Stiegengrat Trad 8m Average
Wed 25th Aug 2021 - Müglitztal
Rollefelsen Männerrolle
6+ 6 Feierabend - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 5 Good
some lichens at the base, but better the higher you get

 
Mon 24th May 2021 - Bunker "Koralle"
Pik Lobetal
5+ Rechter Steinweg Mixed trad 8m, 3 Good
Somewhat sketchy move to the sling placement.

 
Mon 24th May 2021 - Bunker "Koralle"
Östliche Tunnelwand
5 Spreize Mixed trad 8m, 2 Average
Western wall somewhat flaky; crux is leaving the stemming position.

 
Sun 16th May 2021 - Bunker "Koralle"
Pik Lobetal
6- Pentaeder Mixed trad 10m, 1 Very Good
Clip or sling iron rods in the lower part, use rusty bolt (?) far left in the upper part. Solid hand jams.

 
Mon 12th Oct 2020 - Rudawy Janowickie
Zamkowy Grzbiet Grupa Skalnych Bram Głaziska Janowickie
V+ Droga za pięć - with Andreas Trad 18m Good
Harder than it looks.

 
Sun 11th Oct 2020 - Sokoliki
Sokolik Mały
VI Organki - with Andreas Trad 30m Classic
Spectacular rock structure well taking pro. Finished to top on War. Warst Plytami

 
Sun 11th Oct 2020 - Sokoliki
Sokolik Duży
VI- V+ Ostrze filara - with Andreas Trad 35m Very Good
tricky start

 
Fri 7th Aug 2020 - Auersberggebiet
Blauenthal Kasten
3 Alter Weg Trad Don't Bother
Pulling three large mossy handholds to vegetated summit, harder than it looks.

 
Fri 7th Aug 2020 - Auersberggebiet
Blauenthal Tangelstein
6- Talweg - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 1 Good
well-protectable and reasonably clean until bolt, then mossy but easier.

 
6- Geisterweg - with Danilo Hondo Trad 18m Good
clean except for final moves, rather bring stoppers than cams.

 
Thu 6th Aug 2020 - Auersberggebiet
Teufelssteingebiet Pferdefuß
6+ 6 M50 - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 15m, 4 Very Good
classic crack line

 
Thu 6th Aug 2020 - Auersberggebiet
Teufelssteingebiet Teufelchen
6 Aufiie Hoans - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 20m, 3 Average
nice moves, but dirty. Bring extra pro

 
Thu 6th Aug 2020 - Auersberggebiet
Teufelssteingebiet Steinbachturm
7- Teufelsriss - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 22m, 5 Mega Classic
hard start, beautiful balance riddles

 
6+ Sonne & Schnee - with Melwin Quacke Mixed trad 20m, 6 Very Good
lots of stemming

 
Mon 3rd Aug 2020 - Greifensteine
Kleiner Brocken
Alter Weg - with Danilo Hondo Trad 17m Don't Bother
wet and mossy

 
Mon 3rd Aug 2020 - Greifensteine
Seekofel
5- V Dickes Ende - with Danilo Hondo Trad 17m Classic
Mon 3rd Aug 2020 - Greifensteine
Gamsfelsen
Foothook - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 22m, 3 Very Good
reachy

 
Mon 3rd Aug 2020 - Greifensteine
Kreuzfelsen
6+ VIIc Toter Riss Direkteinstieg - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 24m, 1 Good
Don't slip at the first moves - your fingers might get stuck in the splinter crack.

 
Intermezzo - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 20m, 2 Very Good
reachy past the roof

 
Sun 2nd Aug 2020 - Greifensteine
Kreuzfelsen
4+ IV Stirnkante - with Danilo Hondo Trad 17m Very Good
Sun 2nd Aug 2020 - Greifensteine
Gamsfelsen
6- V Fichtenwand - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 22m, 2 Very Good
harder than it looks

 
Sun 2nd Aug 2020 - Wolkensteiner Gebiet
Frauenholz Schokoladenfelsen
5+ Talkante - with Danilo Hondo Trad 14m Good
Sat 1st Aug 2020 - Wolkensteiner Gebiet
Wolkensteiner Wände Zentralwand
6 Weisse Verschneidung - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 20m, 1 Very Good
just started from the ledge, but this upper part was quite nice.

 
6- Mittelweg - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 42m, 4 Very Good
Quite a sweatfest on a sunny summer day, but the "anchors" feature a bench under a shady oak. Unintentionally used the final moves of Blitzriss.

 
Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Steinplatte
Lachfeldkopf
7 Royal Flash - with Danilo Hondo
1 6- 25m lead by Danilo Hondo
2 6- 35m lead by Melwin Quacke
3 7 40m lead by Danilo Hondo, Melwin Quacke
4 6+ 20m lead by Danilo Hondo
5 6 45m lead by Melwin Quacke
6 6 40m lead by Danilo Hondo
Mixed trad 210m, 29 Very Good
Not to be taken too lightly.

 
Thu 1st Aug 2019 - Hohes Brett
Südwand Stahlhaus und Plattenrouten
7 Stahlhart - with Danilo Hondo
1 6 55m
2 3 30m
3 6+ 40m
4 7 55m
5 6+ 45m
Trad 230m Good
Rarely repeated: last entry in summit register from 6 years ago. Nice parts (especially pitch 4), but also crumbly sections at pitch 1, 3 (!) and 5 (!!). The flake at the beginning of pitch 5 can only be reached via crumbly rock and sketchy pro. The bolt below it seems to sit in a hollow rock slab, which might collapse when loaded, sending the flake down like a Guillotine on climber an belayer - very scary. Not sure if it can be bypassed.

 
Tue 30th Jul 2019 - Hohes Brett
Südwestwand Right buttress
7- Neuer Nachmittagsspaziergang - with Danilo Hondo
1 6- 40m
2 5 30m
3 7- 35m
Trad 110m
We climbed only the pitches 1-3, which were all superb, but graded hard.

 
Tue 30th Jul 2019 - Hohes Brett
Südwestwand Left buttress
7 A0 Teamwork - with Danilo Hondo
1 3+ 50m
2 3+ 40m
3 4+ 50m
4 5+ 50m
5 5 35m
6 5+ 50m
7 6 40m
8 6+ 45m
9 7 A0 35m
10 5 30m
11 4+ 45m
Mixed trad 470m, 52 Very Good
traverse in the 9th pitch was dripping wet but climbable thanks to bolts. Enjoyable route after the first somewhat shabby pitches.

 
Fri 31st May 2019 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Sachsenmühler Nordwand
5 Nordwestkante - with Bine Mixed trad 18m, 2 Good
extra sling for threading recommended

 
5 Nordwestriss - with Bine Mixed trad 16m, 2 Average
rappel off last bolt - no anchors

 
Thu 30th May 2019 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Engelhardsberg Räuberburg
5+ Linke Verschneidung - with bine Mixed trad 14m, 2 Average
bring a long sling for the block or a stopper

 
4+ Südpfeiler - with bine Mixed trad 14m, 2 Good
big stopper for crack section, large sling for the top

 
Sat 22nd Sep 2018 - Tisá
Modřín Zlomisková věž
VIIa Severozápadní cesta - with Danilo Hondo Trad Good
VI Vzkříšená tradice - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 1 Average
Sat 22nd Sep 2018 - Tisá
Modřín Strážce zlomiska - jižní vrchol
I Stará cesta - with Danilo Hondo Trad Don't Bother
fine for descent

 
VIIIb Údolní cesta - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 2 Good
hard moves right off the deck. I spotted no decent pro apart from the obvious chicken head. Easier after the first bolt.

 
VIIc Železná cesta - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 1 Good
short crux after bolt

 
Sat 22nd Sep 2018 - Tisá
Modřín Nakloněná věž
VIIc Východní cesta - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 25m, 1 Very Good
well-protectable, with short powerful crux at the lieback after the ringbolt

 
VI V Údolní cesta - with Danilo Hondo Trad 40m Good
perfect rock, but not a very clear line to follow

 
Thu 6th Sep 2018 - Unterharz
Steinbachtal Hexenkessel
IV Entblockt - with Torsten Trad
fuzzy course, protections difficult.

 
VI Durchgezogen - with Torsten Trad
more consistent than Entblockt; loose at the top, belay second from above.

 
V Boltplated - with Torsten Trad
single crux move at the bolt.

 
Thu 6th Sep 2018 - Unterharz
Steinbachtal Obere Wand
4 Titanic - with Torsten Mixed trad 12m, 2 Very Good
well protected, take stoppers for crack above.

 
Thu 6th Sep 2018 - Unterharz
Steinbachtal Hintere Wand
VI Pfingstweg Trad Good
well protectable, take long slings. Buoding the anchors requires long slings or tying off the trees, which are 5 m away.

 
Thu 23rd Aug 2018 - Muttekopfhütte
Muttetürme
6a Frühlingstreiben - with Danilo Hondo
1 5a 35m
2 6a 35m
3 4b 55m
4 5a 35m
5 5b+ 32m
6 4b 40m
7 5a 25m
Trad 260m Average
especiallyfirst two pitches quite loose.

 
Thu 3rd May 2018 - Ostrov
Západní část Večerní věž
V Pravá náhorní spára - with Lina Trad 18m Very Good
optimal pro, ideally-sided hand crack.

 
Tue 1st May 2018 - Ostrov
Východní část Špičák
VIIc VIIb Pálení čarodějnic - with Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 1 Very Good
easy and protectable until bolt. From there, shallow holds and poor footholds for 2 m. Large thread at ledge - bring at least 3 m of sling. Move past overhand slightly more demanding than it looks, the rest is easy.

 
Tue 1st May 2018 - Ostrov
Východní část Špička
VIIb Regis Sylva - with bine, Danilo Hondo Mixed trad 17m, 2 Good
straight up to first bolt is surprisingly hard. Bring at least three 5-mm-slings. I used two in the seam above the second bolt, which I found to be the crux move.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 206 ascents.