Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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5.6 |
Into the Mystic (Into the Mystic P1)
1
| 120m | Squamish | Average | Sat 2nd Sep 2017 | |||
Did P1 as a single-pitch climb.
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4 | ★★ Oma Sus (Oma Sus Linkup Lofi) - with Phil Price | 110m | Sierra de Toix | Sat 9th Apr 2022 | ||||
Oma Sus pitches 1-3; then P4 of Lofi -- mostly to simplify the descent.
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5.6 5.8 | ★ The Force | 32m, 8 | Banff | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Sep 2019 | |||
Very easy at the grade -- I'd say no harder than 5.7, probably actually 5.6. But, run-out, so not a good choice for a lead if 5.8 is your limit.
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5.6 5.8 | ★ Proboscis | 12m, 4 | Calabogie | ★ Good | Thu 7th Oct 2021 | |||
I am convinced, one more bolt and call it a sport climb.
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5.6 5.8 | ★ Atomas: la fourmi atomique ((unknown)) | 15m, 6 | Montagne d'Argent | ★ Good | Sun 24th Jul 2011 | |||
It's essentially all over by the 2nd bolt -- but there are some nice frictiony moves up to there with a lack of positive handholds.
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5.6 5.7 | ★ Glory Jean's | 24m, 8 | Rumney | ★ Good | Sun 20th May 2012 | |||
A fun route, the traverse is balancy... especially clipping while traversing. I reclimbed more direct on TR to clean anchor, the rock at Rumney is sharp, but a lot sharper on sections that are not frequently climbed.
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5.6 5.7 | ★ The Good Book | 10m, 3 | Red Rock: Pet Wall | Average | Sat 2nd Aug 2014 | |||
Occasionally found the moves hard to read, but easy to execute once I figured out what they were.
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5.6 5.7 | ★★ Eagle's Nest (Unknown (Eagles Nest)) | 20m, 10 | Calabogie | Average | Sat 24th Aug 2019 | |||
I don't think any of it was harder than 5.6.
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4b | ★ Soft Parade | 20m | Leonidio | ★ Good | Sun 22nd Oct 2023 | |||
4b | ★ Betty Boop | Sella | ★ Good | Fri 8th Apr 2022 | ||||
4b | Cantonnier | Chamandrin | Average | Mon 15th Aug 2022 | ||||
It was quite dirty -- lots of loose dirt on all the edges/ledges/holds.
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4b | Cho oyou | Puy Chalvin | Fri 19th Aug 2022 | |||||
4b | Dhaulagiri | Puy Chalvin | Fri 19th Aug 2022 | |||||
5.6 | ★★ Hocus pocus | 15m, 6 | Kamouraska | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th Aug 2019 | |||
Of the 30 or so routes in the sub-5.10 range I climbed at Kamouraska, this was perhaps the best. Excellent climbing, with great holds and interesting movement at 5.6!
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5.6 | ★ nagasaki | 20m, 3 | Montagne d'Argent | Tue 31st Aug 2010 | ||||
Friction!
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5.6 | ★★ Bolt Line 1 | 25m, 8 | Eardley Escarpment | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th Jul 2007 | |||
My 3rd lead ever... and scary at that.
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4 | ★★ Costilla | 17m, 7 | Sierra de Toix | Wed 1st May 2019 | ||||
4 | ★★ La roja dos | 20m, 7 | Sierra de Toix | Wed 1st May 2019 | ||||
4 | ★★ Bella ruta | 20m, 9 | Sierra de Toix | Wed 1st May 2019 | ||||
4 | ★ Pequeñecos II | 19m, 5 | Sella | ★ Good | Fri 8th Apr 2022 | |||
Polished, but juggy enough to be still be fine.
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4 | ★★ Carmela | 34m | Elda / Petrer | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Apr 2022 | |||
As a bolted route, quite pleasant.
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4 | Guides Route | 12m | Mogote del Valle | Average | Fri 27th Dec 2019 | |||
5.6 | ★ Panty Prow | 18m, 6 | Red Rock | ★★ Very Good | Tue 11th Dec 2012 | |||
Felt like a scarier lead than the 5.7s and 5.8s down on the main part of Panty Wall -- all rounded edges and rounded holds.
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5.6 | ★ Cafe' au Lait | 24m, 8 | Rumney | Sun 5th Aug 2012 | ||||
Fun stemming up the chimney. Easy climb, but hard on my head after backing off on "Whitehorse Ledge" earlier in the day.
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13 | Uriel's Machine | 9 | Waterval Boven | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Mar 2017 | |||
13 | ★ Fly for Life | 7 | Waterval Boven | ★ Good | Sun 26th Mar 2017 | |||
13 | ★ Blood in the Dust | 9 | Waterval Boven | ★ Good | Sun 26th Mar 2017 | |||
Fun
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5.6 | Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten | 21m, 7 | Rumney | ★ Good | Sun 19th May 2019 | |||
5.6 | ★ Big Finish - original TR (Big Finish) | 27m | Lac Sam | ★ Good | Tue 6th Sep 2011 | |||
A couple tricky gear placements, and a nice feeling of exposure on one ledge.
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5.6 | ★ Helios | 10m, 5 | Beaver Valley | ★ Good | Sat 8th Jun 2013 | |||
Pretty good.
After about the 4th bolt, climb stop drifting right, but veers back up and left. Don't be fooled by the bolt to your right that looks like you could traverse right to it. It's not on this climb. (It looks like there might be a climb up the upper face, and this bolt might lead to the base of that climb.) |
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5.6 | ★ Dalle d'attente | 30m, 10 | Kamouraska | Average | Mon 5th Aug 2019 | |||
Perhaps the longest route at Kamouraska. The first half is easy, the second half gets harder. Bolting, unfortunately, doesn't recognize this. If one of the bolts from the lower section had been moved to the upper, it would take this route from average to good.
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5.6 | Trigger Happy | 11m, 4 | Las Vegas | Average | Sat 15th Dec 2012 | |||
Hard moves to the first bolt, and even second, easier afterwards. A far harder 5.6 than "Mini-Gun".
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5.6 | Mini-Gun | 9m, 5 | Las Vegas | ★ Good | Sat 15th Dec 2012 | |||
A bit sharp, but if you can place your hands carefully, you can do ok. Very close-bolted, including super-low first bolt, makes for a friendly and comfortable 5.6 lead.
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5.6 | ★ Rainbow | 7 | Rumney | ★ Good | Sat 18th May 2013 | |||
A couple burly moves near the start, but the rest is pretty easy, though fun.
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5.6 | ★ Marianne | 15m, 7 | Kamouraska | ★ Good | Sun 4th Aug 2019 | |||
5.6 | ★ (unknown 3) | 12m, 3 | Eardley Escarpment | Average | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | |||
A nice warmup, and handy for putting a TR on Coda.
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5.6 | ★ Road Trip | 12m, 6 | Banff | Sat 7th Sep 2019 | ||||
A bit polished, making it not-the-easy 5.6 I was looking for.
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5.6 | Dobbin | 5 | Banff | Average | Sat 7th Sep 2019 | |||
First climb, not a great climb. I also finished wrong -- going right to for, probably, Rat Patrol
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5.6 | ★ Little Flo | 16m, 6 | Calabogie | ★ Good | Sat 7th May 2016 | |||
Consistent slab, with a slightly thinner finish.
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5.6 | ★ Scoops | 15m, 4 | Calabogie | Average | Sat 7th May 2016 | |||
Hardest at the bottom, getting established on the slab and to the 2nd bolt -- then easier to the finish.
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5.6 | ★ Birdie | 23m, 8 | Canmore | ★ Good | Fri 6th Sep 2019 | |||
Final warm-down.
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5.6 | ★ No Seas Burro | 15m, 4 | El Potrero Chico | ★ Good | Sun 30th Dec 2018 | |||
5.6 | ★ Pansy Cap | 10m, 6 | El Potrero Chico | Average | Sun 30th Dec 2018 | |||
5.6 | ★ Ain't no wifey | 12m, 4 | Calabogie | ★ Good | Sat 16th Jul 2016 | |||
13 | ★ Rosy | 12 | Waterval Boven | Fri 24th Mar 2017 | ||||
5.6 | ★ La cigale et la fourmi | 16m, 5 | Montagne d'Argent | Average | Sun 18th Jul 2021 | |||
5.6 | ★ Parmis les fourmis | 14m, 5 | Montagne d'Argent | Average | Sun 18th Jul 2021 | |||
5.6 | ★★ Reptation | 25m, 11 | Val-David | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Aug 2017 | |||
5.6 | ★★ Dominique Goineau | 18m, 5 | Kamouraska | ★ Good | Mon 5th Aug 2019 | |||
Boring start, great finish -- not quite enough to be classic.
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5.6 | ★★ Soiled Father dove | 5 | Spearfish Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Jul 2018 | |||
Only climb that felt spot-on for its grade at the crag. Most of the rest felt hard.
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5.6 | ★★ (another easyish sport route) | 15m | Mont Rigaud | Average | Sun 15th Jul 2018 | |||
5.6 |
★ Model Citizen (Model Citizen P1)
1
5.6
| 9 | Rumney | ★ Good | Sat 18th May 2019 | |||
Only P1 as the upper section of Main Cliff was closed due to raptor nesting.
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5.6 | ★ Burnin' Daylight | 5 | Wild Iris | Sun 5th Aug 2018 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Jake and the Neverland Cowboys | 5 | Wild Iris | ★ Good | Sun 5th Aug 2018 | |||
5.6 | ★ Don't Be Chicken | Needles | ★ Good | Wed 25th Jul 2018 | ||||
4 | ★★ Dizzy Blondes (Dizzy Blonds) | 20m, 9 | Sierra de Toix | Wed 1st May 2019 | ||||
4 | ★ Eva (Eve) | 30m | Sierra de Toix | Wed 1st May 2019 | ||||
4 | ★★ El Endo | 25m | Sierra de Toix | Wed 1st May 2019 | ||||
4 | Ratoncita Pérez | 14m, 4 | Mogote del Valle | Average | Fri 27th Dec 2019 | |||
4 | Cucarachón | 14m, 4 | Mogote del Valle | Average | Fri 27th Dec 2019 | |||
4b 4 | ★★ Sooty Goes To Benidorm | 12m, 7 | Sella | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Apr 2022 | |||
Easy going, but some pleasant moves - a bit more 3D than stuff around it.
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4 | ★ [unknown new route 2] | 33m | Elda / Petrer | ★ Good | Wed 6th Apr 2022 | |||
More dodging wet.
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5.6 | ★ Je s’appellais Grout | 17m, 8 | Panorama - Bowman | ★ Good | Sun 29th May 2022 | |||
5.6 | ★ L’amuse-gueule | 15m, 6 | Panorama - Bowman | ★ Good | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | |||
5.6 | ★ Astro Kitty | 14m, 6 | Swift Current | ★ Good | Sat 5th Aug 2023 | |||
Pleasant little less than vertical sport climb, with nicely featured slab, and some bits of trust-your-feet. Nice way to finish the day.
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5.6 | ★ Esprit de famille | 12m, 4 | Lone star | Mon 4th Sep 2023 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Rhovanion | 18m, 7 | Lac Sam | ★ Good | Mon 24th May 2021 | |||
5.6 5.8 | ★ Stage Left ((unknown 6)) | 13m, 5 | Calabogie | Average | Sun 22nd Apr 2012 | |||
Very high first bolt -- though something below it might take gear. Also takes a smallish cam in a crack between the 2nd and 3rd bolts.
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5.6 5.7 PG | ★★ Big Finish | 25m, 9 | Lac Sam | Sun 21st Jun 2015 | ||||
Climbs well at the grade; happy with the bolting.
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5.6 ~5.7 | ★ Easily Amused | 10m, 3 | Rumney | Average | Sun 21st May 2023 | |||
5.6 | ★ Awkward Overhangs | 11m, 7 | Calabogie | Average | Sat 22nd Jul 2023 | |||
5.6 ~5.7 | ★★ Shish-Kebob | 15m, 7 | Mont Rigaud | ★ Good | Sun 28th May 2023 | |||
5.6 5.6 PG | ★ Bunny Hop | 11m, 2 | Mont Rigaud | ★ Good | Sun 27th Jun 2010 | |||
Clips aren't as intimidating as they look.
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5.6 ~5.7 | ★ In the Pursuit (of fire) | 12m, 3 | Red Rock: Pet Wall | Average | Sun 23rd Jul 2023 | |||
5.6 | ★ Donkey See, Donkey Do (Donkey Punch 2.0) | 27m, 5 | Calabogie | Average | Sat 5th Nov 2016 | |||
Lead it again, now with the extension further down to the base. Guess that's now a red-point?
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5.6 | ★★ (un)Comfortably Numb | 15m, 7 | Lac Sam | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Apr 2023 | |||
5.6 5.5 | ★ Ithilien | 23m, 12 | Lac Sam | ★ Good | Sun 19th Jul 2020 | |||
5.6 | ★ Karpkwitz | 9m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Mon 28th Sep 2015 | |||
Lead on Carol's already-placed gear. So, guess that's a pink point.
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5.6 |
★★ Met du pep dans ta grimpette (Met du pep dans ta grimpette P1)
1
5.6
62m
| 62m | Lac Gervais | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Aug 2020 | |||
5.6 5.7 | ★ Pull Up | 18m, 5 | Calabogie | ★ Good | Thu 31st May 2018 | |||
5.6 5.7 | ★ Stage Right | 13m, 4 | Calabogie | ★ Good | Sat 4th Jul 2015 | |||
5.6 5.7 | ★ Karma Points | 13m, 5 | Calabogie | ★★ Very Good | Fri 23rd Oct 2020 | |||
Lead soaking wet -- it was fine. Even soaking wet, I don't think it climbed harder than 5.6.
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5.6 | ★ Fogged Up | 16m, 5 | Calabogie | ★ Good | Sat 9th Jul 2022 | |||
5.6 | ★ Libertad | El Potrero Chico | ★ Good | Fri 19th Dec 2014 | ||||
2nd p1, lead p2. Maria's first multi-pitch.
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5.6 | ★ Paparazzi | 14m, 4 | Calabogie | ★ Good | Sat 24th Aug 2019 | |||
Lead it wearing sandals rather than climbing shoes. Probably not 5.7.
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5.6 | ★★ UK-Swiss Confederation | 30m, 14 | Lac Sam | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | |||
Still recovering from ribs and pneumothorax.
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5.6 | ★ Hump Day | 13m, 5 | Calabogie | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Sep 2022 | |||
5.6 5.5 | ★ Pine Sol | 11m, 4 | Mont Rigaud | Average | Sat 21st May 2022 | |||
5.6 5.5 | ★ Bei Tageslicht | 11m, 6 | Halton Region | Average | Sat 21st May 2016 | |||
One tough move, the rest is easy.
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V0- | ★★ One Move Mantle | 1m | Lac Sam | Don't Bother | Sun 3rd Jul 2011 | |||
It's just one move! But, hey, you have to get out of the water some way...
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V0- | Right wall - left | 4m | Lac Sam | Average | Sat 13th Aug 2016 | |||
V0- | High Rising Traverse | Lac Sam | Average | Sat 13th Aug 2016 | ||||
One try, then one success.
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5.6 | ★ Le pont levis | 10m | Montagne d'Argent | Average | Sat 21st Aug 2021 | |||
5.6 | Bunny Arete | 11m | Mont Rigaud | Average | Sun 11th May 2014 | |||
Had a rope up on Bunny Hop, swung it around the corner, and played with stuff on this side. I found myself a 5.6ish sequence, but there's easier and harder choices available.
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5.6 | ★ (unknown 10) | 15m, 5 | Calabogie | ★ Good | Sun 30th Oct 2011 | |||
Fun climbing.
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5.6 | ★ Middle Climb | 15m, 7 | Lac Sam | Wed 15th Jul 2009 | ||||
5.6 | ★★ Shine on You Crazy Diamond | 17m, 9 | Lac Sam | ★ Good | Sun 21st Jun 2015 | |||
5.6 | ★ (unkown 11) | 17m | Calabogie | Average | Mon 1st Sep 2014 | |||
Not sure if it is leadable... not a lot of gear lower down. Will have to look again higher up... but might be slinging trees for a couple of the protection points.
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5.6 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | Lac Sam | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th Sep 2011 | |||
One of the nicest climbs on the face so far. Lots of good climbing -- just avoid the scary monsters on either side of the route.
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5.6 | A Question of Balance | 9m | Thunder Bay | Wed 22nd Aug 2012 | ||||
A fun top-rope, though some of the flakes felt... fragile.
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