Ascents by David Gibbs having Distinct route

Lead as approach to "Sword". A fun pitch in it own right.

Short, but nice enough climbing.

The nominal third pitch -- step-across and up to the anchor -- is very short, and could easily be linked with pitch 2. Except then you'd miss the chance to hang out on the top of a lovely pinnacle. Protecting the step across would be tricky if short.

Hardest part is the opening moves. Guide shows a pair of bolts for an anchor -- but I couldn't find them, so slung a big tree.

Went easily, even when wet. The guide pictures bolts for the low traverse which don't appear to exist.

Did the initial part of the traverse a bit high, since the lower bit was covered in wet moss. Fun to do, but not a great climb.

Lead P1 & P3, followed P2.

First Red Rocks climb, just getting a feel for the rock.

Easy fun climb. Good practice for multi-pitch trad, one non-intimidating terrain.

We did this in two long pitches, I took the second one and ran out of rope almost at the top... so had to belay just short, though really close enough that I just walked the finish.

Supertopo guide has this as 5.5, but I think the 5.4 rating on here is pretty reasonable.

Pro is a bit thin, especially the 2nd half.

This was a fun trad adventure, even anchored on a tree at the end!

Hard to judge quality... if cleaned up, would like rate good->very good, but currently really dirty, mossy, and with some loose blocks.

Was a bit dirty.

A bit dirty -- doesn't seem to be climbed a lot.

The gear is not... great. Then again, the guide does list it as a top-rope.

Lead some amalgam of this and Birthday Ridge. Did most of the first pitch, but near end went left to BR belay, then had to step down and around roof to get to the corner with much gear finagling to avoid evil rope drag. After corner, tried to stay right of BR in upper section -- not sure how well I succeeded. Was also damp, making the climbing more exciting.

Swung pitches, I led the 2nd pitch. The "groove" is a bit of a squeeze if carrying a pack.

The first pitch is fun with good climbing and decent protection -- though sometimes interesting to place. (I placed, I think, 4 tri-cams.)

As for relative difficulty...it is about right for a 5.4 in the Gatineau area -- but most such ratings are generally hard to sandag compared to other areas I have climbed.

Not sure exact date -- but sometime summer 2009.

My first trad lead. It seemed very run-out and hard to protect. (I might do better, now, or I might know better now. )

Required the occasional creative gear placement, and some gardening to place the gear, but generally a fun cimb with some good moves, that stays mostly clear of the adjacent sport lines.

I brought my rack, so wanted to use it for at least one climb. This, clearly, isn't climbed often -- the crack was full of leaves. It can take some surprisingly big pieces, too.

Decent climbing, crack is broken enough that pro is not confidence inspiring. Lots of placements, just never quite sure they would hold. Also, a bunch of loose, mostly small, rock.

Surprisingly good climbing given the blocky-looking start. The exit left from under the roof is a wonderfully exposed, comitting move for a 5.4 (or 5.4+) climb.

I chose to finish right (apparently harder) to use the anchor's for Reg's route. The step across at the top is a bit tricky.

Nice climbing up exfoliating flakes and slabs above the ledge.

Nice warm-up.

Most recent guide lists this as 5.4, which feels far more reasonable than 5.1. A good climb with decent gear.

A bit dirty, but otherwise nice climbing.

FA.

Fun. Easy pro for most of the route.

Start of the first pitch feels quite committing for a 5.4 climb, above gear. Rest of climb is fine.

Lead it at the end of the day. The over-hanging lay-back crack section is really intimidating on a 5.4. It does protect well.

At end of crack, step right to small triangular ledge -- there are two pitons at the back, to rappel off.

It was an after-dinner delight for us. Sunset from the top was quite pretty.

Protects well for a climb at Whitehorse Ledge.

After doing about the first 1.5 pitches (in a single push), we looked at the time and decided to back off. Other two rappelled from the anchor. I moved the rope to be slung over a horn, cleaned the anchor and rapped from the horn. One of my more nervous rappels.

Leading on Trevor's rack, and he didn't have the gear I wanted for this climb. Oh well.