Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 16th Aug 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Hat Hill Crag | ||||||
21 | ★★ Crackadoo! - with Joe Gordon | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very cool route. Well worth doing the crack section (used a single #2,#3). Every move is different and some cool layback sections!
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Sat 1st Aug 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath DG's | ||||||
21 | ★★ Mad Taffy Traverse - with Joe Gordon | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very cool traverse across the cave! Couldn't find good gear before committing to traversing the slopers and doing a mantle move (crux?) into the mini waterfall. Might be able to get some larger cams at the back but hard to see/place. Retreated off the bolts for triple treat. Also probably best attempted when not seeping!
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Sun 12th Jul 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Red Riding Hood Area | ||||||
15 | The Poseidon Adventure | 15m | Average | |||
Sat 11th Jul 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Rock the Clock - with Vicky Chen | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
End of day attempt and took a mega whipper from the top (fall is safe!). Didn't read the sequence right, but went easily the next attempt.
|
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22 22 R | ★★★ Memorable Moves | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome and sequency route! Went up ice-bird as the start looked a bit too chossy. Took a few whips trying to place some gear.
|
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18 | ★★ Montezuma | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very cool route, getting increasingly wider towards the end.
|
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Sun 7th Jun 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
19 |
★★ Foreword P1
1
19
21m
| 21m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First pitch only. Awesome fun climbing and has great gear. Will definitely get on it again.
|
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17 | ★★★ Flake Crack | 53m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sun 7th Jun 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Psychopath | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
15 | ★★ The Carthaginian | 33m | ★★★ Classic | |||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 23rd Feb 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Dirty Dancing | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Top roped to figure out the last moves. Awesome climb and tricky sequence up top that will take a bit of work!
|
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Sun 23rd Feb 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Bad Luck Streak | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Hadn't climbed Trad in ages but couldn't resist getting on this route again - well protected and enjoyable the whole way up!
|
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Sun 23rd Feb 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Man Overboard | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing!
|
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Tue 1st Oct 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake - with Ben Roberts | 60m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Old tick before the fires. Epic climb and great moves and gear the whole way up, progressively getting slightly harder.
|
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Sat 14th Sep 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | ||||||
21 | ★★ Dude where's my cam? - with Alec Brodie | 45m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Looked like an MEGA climb from the ground feels just as good when on it. Used a few #4's at the bottom but doesn't require so much offwidth technique. The rock is pretty chossy below the roof, but then you get great gear. Hardish move on the arête/slab getting to the first carrot and then nice climbing above - although take care at the top section as quite runout and had a few holds break.
|
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20 | ★★★ True dreams - with Alec Brodie | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Alec lead as one pitch - seconded clean. Awesome moves and a varied climbing - although a bit awkward at the end.
|
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Sun 25th Aug 2019 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Hallinden Högberget | ||||||
6- | ★★ Karl Alfred - with Thomas | 17m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice route, except the crux (above the ledge) was quite wet. Gear was a bit fiddly at time due to the flaring rock.
|
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Wed 21st Aug 2019 - Drammen | ||||||
Damtjern Vegglus Sektoren | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Cool Hand Luke - with Thomas | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sequency climb with not as many finger locks or jams as you want.
|
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Wed 21st Aug 2019 - Drammen | ||||||
Damtjern Susis-Veggen | ||||||
6- 6 | ★★ Odin margin - with Thomas | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun climb with some odd style moves. Bring a larger (#4) cam for the top.
|
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Sun 4th Nov 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | ||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great warmup but start is always a bit tricky. Abseiled off the tree.
|
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Sun 4th Nov 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Thruxton - with Louis | 57m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great corner crack which is super clean. Thin hands most of the way with a rooflet to keep it interesting. Louis did a mega linkup "Thruxstar", and definitely would recommend although probably watch out to minimise rope drag.
|
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18 | ★★★ Gold Star - with Louis | 58m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fun climbing (second pitch only), and found a few of the moves a bit harder than expected.
|
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21 | ★★★ Vincent HRD - with Louis | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome climbing, with sweet sweet diagonal jams. Quite a bit soft for the grade.
|
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Sun 4th Nov 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Abseil Gully | ||||||
14 | ★★ Set, Piece, Battle - with Louis | 50m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice climb, and worth doing if you're in the area.
|
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12 | ★★ The Eyrie - with Louis | 45m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Linkup as one mega pitch. Nice climbing although a bit runout at times but on easy terrain.
|
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Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Sharp Shooter | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Tried for the onsight, but ended up resting at the first roof, after getting my hand stuck in a solid jam. Definitely didn't bring enough hand size cams and ran out before the second roof and so built an anchor and lowered off. Ended up top-roping the climb clean after to retrieve the gear. Super climb and loved it, although the chimney section could be a bit intimidating with little gear on lead.
|
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Fri 3rd Aug 2018 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Tenere - with Henry Burt | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finally got this clean. Felt great in the top section but still just as pumpy!
|
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Sun 6th May 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Hartley Kangaroo Corner | ||||||
15 | ★ Rave on Mr Yates - with Louis | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice climb, a shame the start moves don't go for longer. A few cruxy moves higher, but they are protected by a bolt.. Only need a single rack.
|
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15 | ★ Black Velvet - with Louis | 50m | ★ Good | |||
A lot of bolts on this wall, and not sure how good they are - but didn't end up using any trad gear. Some fun slab moves!
|
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14 | ★★ Ivory Tower - with Louis | 55m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb, Louis linked pitch 1 and 2 up. And I did the last pitch. Some nice moves, but would be better if there wasn't jugs next to the crack on pitch 2 Last pitch was definitely fun with a good squeeze and then traverse.
|
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Sat 7th Apr 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Colosseum | ||||||
23 |
★★★ Wake of the Flood
- with
Louis
1
20
50m
2
21
3
23
| 50m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Awesome climbing with some varied styles. Loved the V-Chimney, but unfortunately broke some of my gear loops on one side of my harness squeezing up it. But put everything on a sling and managed to get the onsight for the 21! Some strenuous thin hand jamming. Would be nice to come back to the 23 one day.
|
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Mon 2nd Apr 2018 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | ||||||
15 | ★★ Big Fun - with Louis | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Just getting used to granite slab! Just have to believe in the smears... great lead by Louis after some hard days of climbing!
|
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Sun 1st Apr 2018 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Cathedral | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Maharajah - with Louis | 42m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
We did it in 3 pitches with the flake start. I lead the second pitch, and found the traverse quite fun (and tiresome). Great climbing. Last pitch was quite run-out by Louis and a great intro to proper granite slab at the end!
|
||||||
17 | ★★★ Maharajah Flake Start - with Louis | 10m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Looks hard from the ground but lots of fun!
|
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Sat 31st Mar 2018 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Where Angels Fear to Tread - with Louis | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Did it in 6 pitches, I lead 1, 3, 5. Took a pretty hefty rack which was pretty thankful for, so didn't have to bump cams continuously Such a great route, and the fact that it is so sustained at the grade for the entire length makes it absolutely mega classic. Something for everyone. Found the wide fists a bit annoying as my shoes kept getting stuck in the crack! The slab transfers were excellent and the finger crack crux was pretty desperate on second. The chimney/offwidth pitch was definitely intimidating as not usually my style but somehow managed to onsight it, and realised what the topo meant by 'slap arete' Glorious day out.
|
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Fri 30th Mar 2018 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | ||||||
16 | ★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant - with Louis | 70m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Good intro to granite slab climbing! The flake on the 2nd pitch feels quite hollow.
|
||||||
Wed 28th Mar 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Cave Climb - with Louis | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really interesting climbing. The start is tough (even with the tree), but fun moves through the traverse and linked P1 and P2 together. I lead second pitch through the cave, which we didn't have any big gear (I guess a 5 is good?) so was pretty unprotected. Was also slimy and wet which made it exhilarating!
|
||||||
Sun 25th Mar 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Herbaceous Gully | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Tol | 50m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Super awesome corner crack at the grade and great rock quality. A double rack is good to link P1 and P2 together. I rap cleaned off the two carrots so that Louis could lead, and as we pulled the rope, the storm came in and I got drenched belaying. We exited left from the cave onto Tal, to avoid a wet chossy chimney.
|
||||||
Tue 31st Oct 2017 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | ||||||
18 | ★★ Decline and Fall | 99m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great finger crack, with the moves getting progressively harder as you go up. A bit sandy towards the top but should clean up more as it gets more traffic. P1 only
|
||||||
Sun 29th Oct 2017 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Ghoul - with Abi Prakash | 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great route and would be mega-classic if not for the run-outs on small ironstone edges (makes it a bit more exciting!). The jamming section was sustained and brilliant. I ended up leading the last 10m because of rope drag.
|
||||||
Sat 28th Oct 2017 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler - with Eamonn | 81m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A great route. Went easily on repeat until I got my foot stuck as I tried to offwidth the very top section. Fortunately got it free without falling out!
|
||||||
Sat 14th Oct 2017 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Tenere | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Getting closer... this time I didn't put my cams in the good jamming spots. But still get pumped placing gear near the top in the thin hands.
|
||||||
Sat 14th Oct 2017 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Bayside Bluebeard Area | ||||||
17 | ★ Bluebeard - with Eamonn | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Accidently abseiled to the big ledge so started there. Chossy and minimal pro but the climbing gets better as you go up. Some nice steep crack climbing near the top until you get into the wind funnel. Have done this on second - but didn't remember much except the end.
|
||||||
Mon 2nd Oct 2017 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★★ Secret Swinger | 74m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Linked all of the pitches and lead it as one giant pitch (about 50-55m). Great climbing and good pro most of the way up. We were going to link up with Excalibur but my friend wasn't feeling well so she lowered off the first pitch (a bit of booty gear for the person climbing next! )
|
||||||
Sat 22nd Jul 2017 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
17 | ★★ Wizards Back | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very great climb and well worth doing. Engaging for the entire 10m with surprisingly a wide range of climbing (slab, finger crack, fist jams and laybacks - and a traverse!!).
|
||||||
20 | ★★★ Rickety Kate | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
In the hot sun, felt hard on second. Great bridging and climbing though - but would be a bit daunting with a ledge right below you on lead. There's a flake that feels like it will pull loose one day
|
||||||
Sat 22nd Jul 2017 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
15 | ★★ Devil's Wart | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
An exciting route, with some questionable rock an awkward moves if you're tall. Rap-cleaned it.
|
||||||
20 | ★★ Footloose and Falling Free | 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seconded Nicola - great lead. Pro is fiddly and spaced (near to the ground) so probably should be well rested to attempt this. Some nice moves though. Some loose rocks when scrambling off to the right.
|
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20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Last day at frog and managed to get my first 20 trad onsight with Devils Dihedral. Magnificent climbing for 45m. A bit of some thoughtful moves down the bottom and then a good rest before the overhang section - found it committing but easier than it looked. Well worth doing.
|
||||||
21 | ★★★ Conquistador | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
What an amazing climb. Was feeling a bit wiped out from the sun but gave it a good shot but had to take a rest before the crux. Great sustained jamming down the bottom and then a finger crack crux around a bulge which I found some good beta for (but will probably forget for next time). Exciting all the way to the end!
|
||||||
Thu 6th Jul 2017 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Got the chance to lead it this time. Went easily over the roof and then up through glorious jams. Forgot how solid the layback section was and how great the holds are. If you continue straight up, there's a bolt on the left once you're on the final ledge but went with the slightly sketch traverse to the right.
|
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Sun 2nd Jul 2017 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Plume | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Really awesome climbing. Found some of the sequences hard to read, but got there in the end and well worthwhile. The 'wobbly traverse' would be quite hard if you're short!
|
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18 | ★★ Chocolate Watch Band | 17m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great style climbing. Bring a #4 (or #5) for the top. Got some great fists in, and a bit of offwidth to get over the bulge. Very fun linkup to plume.
|
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16 | ★ Christian | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Nice offwidth/chimney practice! Would be an intense lead!
|
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Sat 1st Jul 2017 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Elastic RURP | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool route! A bit of a slippery crack towards the end.
|
||||||
19 | ★★★ Infinity | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing! Took the variant start (to the right) which was still really nice. Thin hands which looks hard, but there were plenty of stances along the way. Not really any particularly hard moves, but quite sustained.
|
||||||
Fri 30th Jun 2017 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing with thin hands and enough face holds to rest most of the way up. Repeated on top rope about 5 times or so during my stay for practice. Don't think I ever did the route the same way.
|
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Thu 29th Jun 2017 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pleasant jamming the whole way up!
|
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14 | ★ Shit Heap | 10m | ★ Good | |||
First route at frog. A bit awkward at times but mostly nice. Had a cam stuck in a crack for a few days. Thanks for all the help, and especially 'the cam whisperer' who got it out! Let me know if you're in Sydney and I'll get you a few beers!
|
||||||
Sun 25th Jun 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Psychopath | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing line. Repeat to get some practice on the offwidth section at the top.
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. Felt much easier the second time on lead
|
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Sun 25th Jun 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ The Janicepts | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
The lead project begins... Tried it out on lead to get a feeling for placing gear. Went well, and got all the moves clean - although a bit of sitting back on the rope. Ripped off my left crack glove on the first jam, so finished the climb with it untaped - painful but solid Keen to get on this again!
|
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Sat 27th May 2017 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent climbing, though bring plenty of hand size cams/hexes. Bring some long tape if spare, as the ones currently there look quite worn.
|
||||||
Sat 20th May 2017 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Cactus | 78m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Just pitch 1, but definitely will be back for the rest. Beautiful corner crack moves with finger locks and wild stemming. Bring many #0.5's for ease of mind
|
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Wed 10th May 2017 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Bayside The Yardarm | ||||||
16 | ★★ Sympatico | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climb! Seem to do it differently every time. Went to the very top break this time to traverse.
|
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Wed 10th May 2017 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Centurion Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ Women and Children First | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Amazing start, and a few harder moves after but over after that. Bring a 120cm sling to thread.
|
||||||
Sun 7th May 2017 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Centurion Area | ||||||
16 | ★★ Centurion | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice jamming, with many spiders!
|
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15 | ★★ Impact Zone | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing, lots of pro and varied. A bit of jamming, bridging and optional offwidth!
|
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Sun 7th May 2017 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Northern Exposure | 30m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic climbing the whole way. Pump begins in the final section, trying to figure out the sequence. Keen to give this a go on lead next time!
|
||||||
Sun 7th May 2017 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Tenere | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
On lead this time, 2 rests but got all the moves clean. Start is a nice warmup with plenty of nut placements on easy terrain. Got to the block (jug) before the crack and feels much more intimidating thinking it might come out (it's solid!). Managed to get past the crux and place gear and climbed past it, but couldn't find a good spot above to rest and came back down. Second time I put a cam in a crucial hand jam, should of used a smaller cam. But awesome moves in the thin hands section and solid hand jams at the end end with a fun runout!
|
||||||
Sun 23rd Apr 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | ||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice moves up the crack - great warmup.
|
||||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams - with Rene Provis | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another great route in this area. Hard start and slipped off twice (once in the dark trying to get gear out, and the other getting a hand jam stuck). Pumpy till the rest on the ledge! Chimney was interesting - couldn't see anything in the dark and kept squeezing my shoulders up (had bruises on them for a while after) until attempted to get on the face. Unfortunately got rained out and had to bail.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado - with Rene Provis | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Really awesome climbing with varied style - lead both pitches. Start is a finger crack, with some rails that look like they could break but seemed to hold and moved into a weird offwidth to transition to a layback and then a great rest. Went directly up through an intimidating layback section to good handjams and a sandy exit to the ledge. Bring a #4 for the belay (I used one in pitch 1 also), as limited in placements otherwise.
Pitch 2 was fun start in a secure chimney and easy jugs to get onto the face. Keep bumping your #4 (3 would be helpful on this pitch if you don't want to run it out or bump forever).
Note: Watch out for some sharp objects on the approach - stepped on something that sliced through my shoe and foot! Fortunately was still able to climb.
|
||||||
Tue 14th Mar 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Psychotic - with Vicky Chen | 25m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great route, with a nice mix of crack and slab climbing!
|
||||||
Sun 12th Mar 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
14 | ★★ S.S.C.C.1 - with Eamonn | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some interesting but also reachy moves to jugs. Well protected with either a micro or a well set nut placement down low. Enjoyable crack climbing at the top.
|
||||||
Sun 12th Mar 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Solomon Area | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Solomon | 51m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sensational climbing. Had seconded this once before but this was the first time on lead. Did the route with only Trad gear and it is easily protectable: you can easily get away with 2 #2's and #1's and a single rack for the rest if you use hexes for the belay. The corner crack was fantastic hand jams, which turns into what looks like an improbable steep section. Got to the crux and deliberated for a long while before committing to it (most pumped i've ever been on lead). Last 10-15m or so is very chossy and runout (pulled off a hold near the top!).
|
||||||
Sat 25th Feb 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
19 18 | ★★ Apron Strings - with Vicky Chen | 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A brilliant climb and definitely recommend it. Does not deserve the R rating, plenty of gear provided you bring some doubles of cams. I thought the latest guide was accurate with the 19 grade.
A very technical climb, and would be mega-classic if not for the slighty bad rock, but there are holds around it. Got one move away from the anchors and my foot slipped off a smear and took a fun fall (victory whipper?). Guess i'll just have to do the climb again...
|
||||||
Sat 18th Feb 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 - with Abi Prakash | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Another lap on this awesome route! Good practice for hand and foot jams.
|
||||||
15 | ★ Bell Bottom Pants | 25m | Average | |||
A few awkward moves on lead, with definite groundfall potential. Not a particularly captivating climb.
|
||||||
Sat 18th Feb 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Stateline Gully | ||||||
20 | ★★ Cosmed - with Eamonn | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very cool route! Had to sit on the rope as couldn't quite hold the thin jams to place gear. Once rested, found a better sequence up and the climbing eases off towards the top.
|
||||||
Sat 18th Feb 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour - with Alie Repetto | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
A good route, although wouldn't rate it as highly as the guidebook describes. Nice move traversing left!
|
||||||
Mon 23rd Jan 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Black Bart's Wall | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Honey Dip - with Germán Castro | 28m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very good for the grade with the crux at the roof - nice jugs on the lip to help though!
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Sun 22nd Jan 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Colosseum Corner | 78m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great route with some interesting and technical stemming sections.
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20 | ★★ Ben Trovato - with che | 150m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Previously have done it clean on second. Was much harder (and more interesting) on lead. Got quite pumped after the first crux and didn't find a good rest position (although Che found some great knee-bars). No-hand rest just before the top crux to give you a little time to ponder the thin moves. Fun and exciting finish!
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Sat 21st Jan 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Giggles Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Fer De Lance - with Vicky Chen | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent and enjoyable route - with some nice corner climbing for the grade. Used the loose flake (beware) on the roof to gain the traverse. Found it a bit awkward to get a nice stance but there are solid edges to stand on.
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Sat 21st Jan 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Black Bart's Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Black Bart - with Vicky Chen | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Took a full rack, thinking it was going to be mixed (from the guidebook), but a #0.75 is enough to protect it. Hard and very committing start but there is a good (slightly hidden) jug to clip from, but a bit of balance is needed. Pretty easy after that with a couple of nice sequences on the arete.
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16 | ★ Stuffed - with Vicky Chen | 66m | ★ Good | |||
First pitch only. Hard move to gain the jugs, but found a good sequence that seemed to work well (left toe hook in the pocket). Also helped having a nice handsize to jam that section.
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Wed 11th Jan 2017 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Harlequin - with Rene Provis | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Found the moves great while seconding so went for a lead attempt end-of-day. Made it to the first crux of the finger jams but couldn't find a solid jam (Lovely salty, slippery cracks!), slipped out and took a pretty big fall above gear while also catching my foot in the rope and flipping upside down... Would definitely like to try it again sometime!
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Wed 11th Jan 2017 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Lassie's Wall | ||||||
11 | ★ Pandora | 27m | ★ Good | |||
Hardest 11 i've done but some fun moves. A bit of jamming and slab. Offwidth was fun at the end and a bit run out without a #5.
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Wed 4th Jan 2017 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Step Tier | ||||||
15 16 | ★★★ Moonraker - with Rene Provis | 70m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lead the first two pitches clean and seconded the final chimney. Fun climbing on some interesting features (bit of offwidth, face holds, chimney and twin crack system). Was varied in each of the pitches, and some holds were hard to find (or loose) and so required a bit of thought to get past those sections. Fun day out.
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Sat 31st Dec 2016 - Ben Lomond | ||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Ramadan - with Rene Provis | 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A great style route! Hard start where you begin to figure out what technique works for you. Very tiring on the feet/toes but had quite good finger locks. A bit of relief when you finally get a solid hand jam. Thought it was going to be that sustained the whole way through the route so rested on the rope, but there is a good stance a bit after halfway up the route.
I would imagine it would feel very insecure on lead!
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18 | ★★★ Rajah - with Rene Provis | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Incredible crack climbing! Pure splitter with great hands. Only did pitch 1 and broke it up into two pitches due to gear (was fine with doubles of #2's, #3's and #4's, with a lot of bumping!). Great hand jams on the first 15m and then some interesting crack with some face/layback on the second half.
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Thu 29th Dec 2016 - Ben Lomond | ||||||
Northern Escarpment Local Loser | ||||||
14 | ★ Local Loser - with Abi Prakash | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Started late in the day for an introduction to Ben Lomond. Unfortunately the rock was seeping, but some parts looked dry so gave it a go. Some good stemming moves at the start which somehow all the crucial ones were dry. An amazing layback on the sharp triangle but getting over was tricky due to the wet moss, which also made some of the cams slip.
Was initially going to take one of the crack exit pitches but they were incredibly wet and after pondering for a while, went on an adventure to the left hoping it would be easier but this lead to some hard moves above a RP and then a final push above minimal gear on another wet crack. Looks like some awesome finger cracks at the top if it was dry! |
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Thu 29th Dec 2016 - Ben Lomond | ||||||
Northern Escarpment Snake Buttress | ||||||
15 | ★ VD Waltz - with Elliott Vercoe | 110m | ★★ Very Good | |||
An interesting route... to say the least. Took about 2 hours for the walk-in, following some well marked cairns across the scree. I lead it as 3 pitches, breaking it up at the obvious ledges (great belay spots).
First and second pitch are at the grade - some nice climbing, but a few loose blocks and sparse pro to keep it interesting. Bring triples in mid-range cams!
Last pitch, I couldn't see the obvious route which should have been grade 10, so went out right up the 'Tremulous' slab. Very true to the guide description. Some intense and weird climbing over the peak and then down a loose crack. Some dubious pro in a loose block and then step across a void into a chimney (which looks insane but is actually okay), onto a face. Another cam for mental protection, you go on a 10-15m runout up the 'Tremulous Slab'. Would not recommend for an 'easy' day out, but definitely worth the adventure! |
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Tue 27th Dec 2016 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Sunny Side Feltham Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Lingham | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A fantastic crack climb with a large amount of varied jams considering the height. A bit slick at the start with thin hands and a fun crux at the bulge with some great finger-locks. Fun with a crowd of tourists on the opposite side shouting!
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Tue 27th Dec 2016 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Sunny Side Trackside Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★ Tree Route | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A nice route for beginners to learn Trad on. Plenty of pro and spectators.
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Sun 25th Dec 2016 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Whitewater Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ After the Goldrush - with Rene Provis | 70m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of my favourite routes at Freycinet! Rene linked P1 and P2 and did an awesome effort getting them clean, considering the amount of water inside the horizontal crack.
P1: 2nd clean. Was easy climbing up until the traverse. Loved the crux move which was slimy inside. Got a foot jam and thin hands and then swung into the next crack over! P2: Onsight. Fantastic pitch, bring doubles up to #4 (at least) and used a #5. Great hand jams at the start which turned wider towards the end. A fantastic stemming move across the void which feels insane until you step up into it. And some exciting offwidth for the finale. |
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17 | ★★ Baystone Blues - with Rene Provis | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Climbing in the mist. Found it to be pretty standard on second although I'm sure it would be much more exciting on lead with a 'bit' of rope drag and long runout sections!
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Fri 23rd Dec 2016 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Harlequin | 28m | ★★★ Classic |