Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 29th May 2024 - Ginzling | ||||||
Bergstation Coque au vin | ||||||
8b | ★★ Persona non grata | 28m | ||||
2nd 8b i sent in the last 3 days . Tried it first 1.5 years ago where i could barely do the moves. This year it felt a lot better, it's nice to see some progress. The route has 4 (6C-7A) boulders and everyone seems to disagree on which of the 4 is the hardest. For me it was the second one. I sent it the first time i passed the 2nd boulder. Also thanks Mischa coming in clutch for the beta improvement suggestion for the last boulder. The easy top out felt so sketchy today, I almost pumped out up there.
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Elefantenwand | ||||||
8b Easy | Prozessionsgang Teil 1 | |||||
6 goes, 2 sessions. First 8b in so few sessions. Maybe soft but suited me very well . Amazing boulder with some technical kneebars.
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Piburger See | ||||||
7c ~8a | ★★★ Klettersteig | 20m | ||||
Hard, hard, hard.... Feels like 8a to the rest followed by another boulder. Tried it the first time 3 years ago. Many sessions over the years, this year 2nd session. Cant beleive i sent it first time i reached the rest, i was certain i'd fall on the last boulder at least once. Started all my send goes from the ground and not platform.
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Nassereith | ||||||
Götterwandl | ||||||
8b | ★★★ Odysseus | 10m | ||||
Softest 8b around, climbs nicely though. IMO easier than Uranus. 2nd session this year, tried it a couple of times over the years and last year it was wet all the time. <20 moves from the no-hand to the top, very enjoyable power endurance. This really is the end of my grade sky-scraper
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Thu 2nd May 2024 - Guanacho | ||||||
7c ~7b+ | The edge of glory | |||||
Nice line. Lots of kneebars. Weird and pumpy finish.
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7c+ Easy | ★★★ Fotznknecht | |||||
Nice route, stupid name. 7c/+, top boulder over right, no preclip. I agree, going over left would be nicer but i'll reserve eliminating holds and other shenanigans for gym climbing.
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Guanacho | ||||||
8a | ★ Sultan of Swing | |||||
7c+/8a. First redpoint try. Hard to find beta, but once you've found it, it's easy. Used 4 kneebars. Cool line.
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Guanacho | ||||||
7b+ Hard | ★★ Dancing Octerpuss | |||||
3rd go. Felt really hard. With kneepad.
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Niederthai | ||||||
La Era | ||||||
7c+ | ★★★ La Era | 10m | ||||
3rd go. Really nice moves, unexpected send. Felt very hard in the first go.
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Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Berglsteiner See | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
8a+ | ★★★ Move to Babylon | |||||
Really nice combination. No idea about the grade, for me a lot easier than baylon and a lot harder than Movie It. Tripple send with the crew.
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Wed 20th Mar 2024 - Ginzling | ||||||
Bergstation 5 Sterne | ||||||
8a+ Easy | ★★★ Herrgottswinkel | 22m | ||||
Very nice, my style, 3 sessions with long time between. If you are tall the crux is before and after the "jump". Is this the start of the foundation of my beatiful grade sky scraper
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Wed 14th Feb 2024 - Margalef | ||||||
Can Verdures | ||||||
7a Hard | ★★ Lobo Lopez | 20m | ||||
Hard start boulder for the grade.
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Thu 8th Feb 2024 - Margalef | ||||||
Racó de les Espadelles | ||||||
7b | ★★ El Gordinflon | 25m, 8 | ||||
Couldn't do the start boulder last year. This year it felt easy and sent right away.
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Thu 8th Feb 2024 - Margalef | ||||||
Cova D'en Ros | ||||||
7c | ★★ Dinamita | |||||
Fell once with the chain in my face.
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7a+ | Al mal tiempo buena cara | |||||
2nd go. Pre-clipped 3rd draw because the first two were completely rusty.
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Wed 7th Feb 2024 - Margalef | ||||||
Cova D'en Ros | ||||||
7b+ Easy | Trilita | |||||
Kneebar heaven. Easy to read for onsight, probably soft.
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7b | ★ Liquen Maniac | 9m, 7 | ||||
2nd go.
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7a+ Hard | ★ Marlene Mugro | 10m, 6 | ||||
Finally some sends. Felt Hard for the grade.
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Fri 2nd Feb 2024 - Rovereto | ||||||
Nomesino | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Bucomagia | 25m | ||||
2nd go. Beautiful.
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Wed 31st Jan 2024 - Rovereto | ||||||
Nomesino | ||||||
7a+ Hard | Sancio Panza | 20m | ||||
Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Siurana | ||||||
L'Olla | ||||||
7a+ ~7b | ★★ Valga'm Deu Quin Patir! | 18m | ||||
Felt a lot harder than 7a+. Also more than one grade harder than the route to the right.
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Fri 12th Jan 2024 - Siurana | ||||||
L'Olla | ||||||
7c+ | ★★ Peixa | 25m | ||||
4th go, one day. No pre-clip. Took me 3 goes to realise that climbing on the outside of the flake is easier. Almost fell at the top with the slopers, haha. That would have been devestating.
|
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Tue 9th Jan 2024 - Siurana | ||||||
L'Olla | ||||||
7a | ★★ Cargol Treu Banya | 13m | ||||
2nd. stupid foot slip while resting during flash
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Tue 9th Jan 2024 - Siurana | ||||||
El Pati | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Viagraman | 30m, 12 | ||||
Mon 8th Jan 2024 - Siurana | ||||||
Espero Primavera | ||||||
7a | ★★ Se m'apaga la baldufa | 20m, 6 | ||||
What a journey to arrive here. Never took a train with 4 hour delay due to an emergency, never missed a flight, never got stuck in an elevator. Somehow managed all of that within 24 hours while travelling here. As a result climbing my first route was hard on the head, proving once again that climbing is as much a mental game as a physical.
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Mon 8th Jan 2024 - Siurana | ||||||
L'Olla | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Bistec De Biceps | 15m, 5 | ||||
3rd go. Cool route, did the crux with a cross from a heelhook.
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Sat 30th Dec 2023 - Martinswand | ||||||
Dschungelbuch Hauptwand | ||||||
7a | Hektisch am Ecktisch Extension | |||||
Lohnende Verlängerung.
|
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Tue 19th Dec 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Parete di Padaro Gotico | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Sinestesia | 22m | ||||
Tue 19th Dec 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Parete di Padaro Cicciosauro | ||||||
7c+ | Uscita a Sinistra | 21m | ||||
3rd go. One session. I need to relearn moving on rock.
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Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Terlago | ||||||
Settore A | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Golden contadino | 20m | ||||
2nd go. Beautiful.
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6c+ ~7a+ | ★★ Enrico la talpa | 18m | ||||
2nd go. Guidebook says 6c+. Felt a lot harder
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Wed 29th Nov 2023 - Martinswand | ||||||
Dschungelbuch Hauptwand | ||||||
7b ~7b+ | ★★ Il Gecco | 18m | ||||
Feels good to touch rock again. Edinburgh chapter closed.
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Kyloe in the Wood | ||||||
7A | ★★ Jock's SS | |||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Mahr | ||||||
Sektor C | ||||||
7a |
★★★ Glory Days P1
1
7a
15m
| 15m | ||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Stohlwond | ||||||
Schweinebucht | ||||||
7a | ★★ Übelkeit | |||||
7b+ | ★★★ ...oder sterben | 16m | ||||
5th go.
|
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di Monte Colt Ceniga | ||||||
7a+ | ★ Anarkos | |||||
Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Pitztal | ||||||
Scheibrand | ||||||
7a | ★★ Men in Trees | |||||
2nd go
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Thu 21st Sep 2023 - Guanacho | ||||||
7b | Mongo Pusher | |||||
2nd go. Spanning from one jug to the next.
|
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7b | ★★ Little Lenny | |||||
First flash of the grade 😂. Thanks for the beta everyone who was there.
|
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Tue 29th Aug 2023 - Central Highlands | ||||||
Dunkeld Area Cave Crag | ||||||
7a+ | Baled Out | 15m, 9 | ||||
First sport route in Scotland. One-move wonder
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Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Rofan | ||||||
Bayreuther Hütte Bumblebee | ||||||
7c+/8a | Glueckstreffer long | |||||
3rd go. Double send with Felix. Pretty soft for the grade. Start was the hardest bit, cool top boulder.
|
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Wilder Kaiser | ||||||
Stripsenjoch Koasa Creek | ||||||
7a | Comeback | |||||
Felt really hard for the grade.
|
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Wed 26th Jul 2023 - Céüse | ||||||
Demi Lune | ||||||
7a+ Hard | ★★★ Angel Dust | 25m | ||||
Tried it 2 years ago. This time second go. Ceuse keeps humbling
|
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Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Rofan | ||||||
Bayreuther Hütte Bumblebee | ||||||
7c/c+ | All Inclusive (AI) | |||||
2nd go. Let's hope this is good Ceuse training. Pumpy business.
|
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Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Niederthai | ||||||
Glückshormon | ||||||
8a | ★★ Gollum | 20m | ||||
Climbed it until the carabiners (Not to the chains of Gondor), hence probably quite soft. Beta-Intensive boulder, 4th go this session. Second session in total but could not remember anything from the first session last year.
|
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Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Haslerschlucht | ||||||
Linker Wandteil | ||||||
7a |
★★★ Freirider P1
1
7a
18
| 18m | ||||
Thu 29th Jun 2023 - Geisterschmiedwand | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Fischdose | 35m, 15 | ||||
Mon 29th May 2023 - Walgau | ||||||
Bürs Bürser Verschneidung | ||||||
7b+ | ★★ Stahlfinger | 13m | ||||
Nice climb. Finishing old business. To be 100% fair, I started it from the jug (i.e. not the ground but from the ledge 1/2m up.)
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Thu 25th May 2023 - Piburger See | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Tanz der Elemente — 2 attempts | 30m | ||||
2nd go. Very nice route! Really pumpy!
|
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Fri 19th May 2023 - Ginzling | ||||||
Bergstation 5 Sterne | ||||||
8a | ★★★ Scientist | 18m | ||||
8 goes. Fell at the top 4 times, good training i guess. Good times with cool crews. And congrats Edu on your first 8a. As much as I hate comp-style indoor bouldering it's amazing when you find coordination moves on rock like on this gem.
|
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Sun 14th May 2023 - Ginzling | ||||||
Sandburg | ||||||
7b+ | Huacachina — 2 attempts | |||||
2nd go. Nice route looks easier than it is.
|
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7b+ | Breaking the Law | |||||
2nd go. Nice Jump beta
|
||||||
7a | Spektakel Light — 2 attempts | |||||
Sun 7th May 2023 - Ewige Jagdgründe | ||||||
Wig und Wam | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Schuh des Manitou | 20m | ||||
Tried it like 3 years ago. Nice to see progress
|
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Fri 5th May 2023 - Ginzling | ||||||
Bergstation 5 Sterne | ||||||
7a |
★★ Tannen Judas P1
1
7a
16m
| 16m | ||||
Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di Monte Colt Epic Colt | ||||||
7c+ | ★★ La grande fuga — 2 attempts | |||||
2nd go. Guidebook says 8a, but that's probably too generous.
|
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Sat 29th Apr 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Bus de la Stria Conti d'Arco | ||||||
7c+ Hard | ★★★ Festa della Tufa | 18m | ||||
Maybe 8a. Cool Lines, amazing kneebars. What a day, did MG connection the go before.
|
||||||
8b+ | ★★ MG Connection | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing feeling. First of the grade! Couldn't come up with a line that suits me better. Easy approach to hard reachy boulder into a lot of (nohand) kneebars and a tricky but easy-if-you-know top boulder. Had plenty of amazing and memorable session on it with great people. Definitely a weekend to remember. Around 5/6 sessions, sent in the first go of the session, and the first time I was able to do the boulder from the ground.
|
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Fri 28th Apr 2023 - Bus de Vela | ||||||
7c Easy | ★★★ Polveri Sottili | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
3rd go. Not sure if I climbed the correct line. First the dihedral and then I went left to the sika underclings and then up. Nice climbing, felt soft.
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Thu 27th Apr 2023 - Bus de Vela | ||||||
7c | ★★★ Il Panettiere | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
4th go/7the go of the day. For me it was a 3 move boulder problem (not counting foot movements etc.). Jumping from one jug to the next.
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Ginzling | ||||||
Bergstation 5 Sterne | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Gasthof Post | 18m | ||||
Basically onsight, but I tried it 3 years ago.
|
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Fri 7th Apr 2023 - Lowland Outcrops | ||||||
Glasgow Outcrops Dumbarton Rock Bouldering Pongo Boulder | ||||||
7A | Slap Happy | |||||
Fri 7th Apr 2023 - Lowland Outcrops | ||||||
Glasgow Outcrops Dumbarton Rock Bouldering Home Rule | ||||||
7A | Mugsy (ya bass) | |||||
No idea if I did the right problem but seems to be tje same start and top hold (i did not topout)
|
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7A+ | Mestizo Sit Start | |||||
Frist climb in Scottland
|
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Sun 26th Mar 2023 - Tassilandia | ||||||
Bellavista | ||||||
7a ~7a+ | ★★★ Uomo di Carta | 25m | ||||
Sat 25th Mar 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Mappamondo | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Uluru | 24m | ||||
Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Ginzling | ||||||
Bergstation 5 Sterne | ||||||
7c+ | ★★★ 5 Sterne | 18m | ||||
4th go. 1 session. Amazing climbing, nice company.With kneepad.
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Sat 18th Mar 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Bus de la Stria Conti d'Arco | ||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Casaliva | |||||
Amazing tufa climbing. For me with the kneebar soft for the grade (without really hard). 3rd go today, 4th in total. Tried it once last year. Around 7b to an amazing nohand kneebar followed by a hard boulder for the grade.
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Thu 9th Mar 2023 - Berglsteiner See | ||||||
Princess | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Zwischenspiel | 15m | ||||
right exit
|
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7a+ | Pfeil | 15m | ||||
First send in almost 2 months. Did the 6b first.
|
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Wed 11th Jan 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Racó de les Espadelles | ||||||
7b | ★★ Amb pal no Dona pal | 25m | ||||
Without stone pyramid at the start. 3rd go. Beautiful flowy climbing on the headwall
|
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7a | ★★ Que pasa neng | 20m | ||||
Without stone pyramid at the start. Easier than the 7a to the left.
|
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7a | ★★ Franja de Ponent | 20m | ||||
Without stone pyramid at the start. Harder than the 7a to the right.
|
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Tue 10th Jan 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Raco De La Finestra | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Laverint D'ombres | 14m, 7 | ||||
Nice. A lot of endurance and willpower.
|
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Sun 8th Jan 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Raco De La Coma Closa | ||||||
8a | ★★★ Meconi | 20m, 17 | ||||
WOW, simply AMAZING. MUST DO! I have a hard time believing that there is a more beautiful route out there in this beautiful world but I would love to be proven wrong. What a journey this send has been: 7 goes in two sessions. We ended up going there on the "rest day" and of course I tried it (how could you not Flo). In the first go I found no solution for the two boulder problems (start and mid). In the second go I had a solution for the start and in the third go I after almost giving up I found an elegant technical solution for the 2nd boulder. Today, it was raining and humid and we weren't even sure if we should go. In the end we went and after failing in the first go I sent in the worst try I had, where my feet slipped 4 times in total, the first crux felt hard and I almost blew it after the second crux by completely disregarding my solution and free-styling everything (my technical easy beta turned into powerful fridge hugging and physical climbing). The final easy meters felt shaky but I mobilized all my reserves and pinched the tufas like I was hanging on for my life. After clipping the chains I felt like vomiting from exhaustion. First 8a of the year.
|
||||||
Wed 4th Jan 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Cingles del Molí | ||||||
7b | ★★ El Espinazo de Diablo | 15m, 7 | ||||
2nd go. Amazing climbing! First route in Margalef!
|
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7c | ★★ A Mig Gas | 15m | ||||
Final go of the day. Tired but a muerte spirit!
|
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Sun 1st Jan 2023 - Santa Linya | ||||||
Cova Gran | ||||||
7b+ ~7c | ★★ Boludo | 12m | ||||
with kneepad. Supposedly a jug hold broke making it 7c. Nice tufa climbing with plenty of kneebars to a crimpy finish.
|
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Sun 1st Jan 2023 - Sant Llorenç de Montgai | ||||||
Disblia 1 & 2 | ||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Patiasso al Pallaso L1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
with kneepad. Nice juggy climbing with good rests. Unfortunately too weak for the extension today.
|
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7a+ | ★ Osito Sanito Mocosete | |||||
painful 2 move boulder.
|
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Fri 30th Dec 2022 - Terradets | ||||||
Paret de les Bruixes | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ L'ansia | 23m, 10 | ||||
2nd go.
|
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Thu 29th Dec 2022 - Sant Llorenç de Montgai | ||||||
Disblia 1 & 2 | ||||||
7c | ★★★ Montse la Traviesa | |||||
3rd go. Feels like the logical line to me. The direct end seems like an elimination route.
|
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7a+ | Me Sabe Mal | 20m | ||||
2nd go. First route this month, first route in Catalonia, first route in Spain.
|
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Wed 9th Nov 2022 - Wilder Kaiser | ||||||
Schleierwasserfall Hauptsektor | ||||||
7a | ★★ El Gringo | 20m | ||||
Sat 5th Nov 2022 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Sarche Terre Alte Centrale Sector | ||||||
7b 7a+ | Il Soffiatore | 18m | ||||
Crimpy.
|
||||||
7b | ★★★ A Star is Born | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing. Just amazing.
|
||||||
Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Berglsteiner See | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Glory Days | 22m | ||||
Amazing climbing, reminds me of Ceüse. Checked out moves when lowering otherwise 2nd go.
|
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7c+ 8a | ★★ Move It | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
~6 goes. With kneebar rest. Probabaly easier if you are tall. And maybe even more easy if you get super-mega-beta from the local legends
|
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Tue 25th Oct 2022 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Sarche Terre Alte Centrale Sector | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Fake Taxi | 22m | ||||
Quite the painful fight as it was the last go on the 3rd day climbing.
|
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7b+ | Pompa Magna | 22m | ||||
2nd go. Had to skip some mega jugs since they were really loose. Either way, this was one of those classic third-day-on-second-go-mega-pump-fights.
|
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Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Terra Promessa Left | ||||||
7a+ | Toy Boy | 25m | ||||
Second Go.
|
||||||
8a 7c+ | ★★ Un presente por Nahla | 25m | ||||
First 8a in second Go! Super psyched! Arco season is ready to start.
|
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Sat 15th Oct 2022 - Ginzling | ||||||
Bergstation Coque au vin | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Blowjob | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go. 2nd bolt is badly placed.
|
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Mon 10th Oct 2022 - Nassereith | ||||||
Götterwandl | ||||||
8a | Pluto | |||||
Tried it a couple of times at the very end of the session. Today was the first time i tried it earlier. <10 goes in total (4th go today). For me, this felt a lot easier than Ares.
|
||||||
Fri 30th Sep 2022 - Nassereith | ||||||
Götterwandl | ||||||
8b | ★★★ Uranus | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Chapter closed. 5 months of projecting. Unfortunately, no count on the sessions but off the top of my head I count over 25 different people who belayed me on this route, I think that's about 20 sessions. Big thanks to all belayers. I am sure this route is on the softer side, and once I found the kneebar in the rest I was sure it's 8a+ but then it took me another 10+ sessions. Once again on the day of the send I changed my beta again after falling on the cross (after the reach) 6 times and sent it next go (bump right hand to jug with drop knee).
|
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Tue 23rd Aug 2022 - Rofan | ||||||
Bayreuther Hütte Bumblebee | ||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Bumblebee | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing day with amazing company. Great climb, checked it out end of last session. Climbed it at the very last try of the day (7th try in total), completely exhausted and tired. Had to really pull everything out of my fingers and activate the last power storage for the crimps after the rest. I used an amazing toe-hook beta for the lower boulder and had a no-hand kneebar in the rest. Because of the no-hand it's probably not harder than 7c+.
|
||||||
Sun 14th Aug 2022 - Rofan | ||||||
Bayreuther Hütte Bumblebee | ||||||
7b | Tirolerstreich | |||||
2nd go.
|
||||||
Fri 5th Aug 2022 - Comano Terme | ||||||
7b+ | ★★ Cuba Libre | 25m | ||||
2nd go. Crimpy crux at start into easy finish.
|
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Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Walgau | ||||||
Bürs Bürser Verschneidung | ||||||
7a+ 7a | ★★★ Octopus | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd go
|