Ascents climbed between 2024-1-00 and 2024-01-31 by Rui Fonseca having Sport CPR

Warm up route. Finally sent it, took 3 different attempts over one year.

Coming back to this route after having the first session one month ago. First try was to remember the moves and holds. Crux sequence was easy to repeat.

I had to get back on the route to retrieve my quickdraws after the last climber fell on the last quickdraw and failed to get back on the route. I chose to go on top rope since it's much easier and faster to get the bottom draws. Then when I reached the fifth draw, I added an additional one clipped to the belayer end of the rope, so that I was always climbing with at least two bolts clipped.

Second attempt I went more serious, but didn't the the foot position perfect in the first draws and ended up using a lot of energy, and fell going for the undercling hold. After resting for a bit, the moves to the top were fine. Then I worked on the crux sequence, I first tried doing the left shoulder move, right foot and right hand directly to the platform instead of using the pocket. Then I also tried the dynamic beta, jumping from the sloppy crimps to the platform. I chose to stick with the original beta of going static and using the pocket. Then I also worked on the moves after the third quickdraw. There are two pockets there, I was using the right one as a shoulder hold, but then I found the left smaller pocket much better since it also makes for a good body position for the next moves.

On the third attempt it was my best one so far, with the refined pocket beta and better foothold on the third draw, but then on the forth draw I messed up a bit and wasted a lot of energy. Still I was able to get the undercling and get to the fifth draw, and tried to rest on the hold that you clip the draw. Got some air but I was already close to the limit, I did a couple moves, got the good left hand before the slopers and tried to clip the last draw but I failed to clip and took a fall. After resting for a bit I reached the top.

I tried Bola Forçada last week, but this time Pedro wanted us to go to Tubarão com pêlo because it was a long standing project of his that almost got him an injury. The first attempt was to figure out the beta, Pedro went first and got some help from some friends then I went to try it: The first moves in the first and second clip are straightforward. Then with the right hand on a big hold you clip the third. Then burly part starts: left hand pocket hove the bolt, then on the right there are a multiple right hand holds, you keep bumping your right hand and raising your feet. When the last one is reached, you spot a deep crimp to left on a blank face, left hand to it, change feet and cross with the right hand to a jug, match and clip the 4th draw. Then you get a right hand shoulder vertical slot, feet really high and get a hidden undercling crack with left hand, after raising the body you clip the 5th bolt and right hand to above and right of the bolt. Then there are a series of holds to the left, and pocket a bit more up and to the left which with will give you the final moves to get out of the roof. My refined sequence was left hand full crimp, right hand cross on a big hole above it, left hand bump across the edge to a good hold, left foot really high to a small platform and reach the pocket with the left hand, and then reach with the right hand to the holds above the roof. After a couple moves there is a good left hand hold with a thumb where you can clip the last bolt with the legs spread out. Then it is slab on good holds to reach the top.

On the last attempt, I messed up the sequence after the 3rd bolt with my right hand a bit, and made me waste a bit of energy. Doing the cross move was not so comfortable, and I was already feeling a bit tired. Then when I reached the crimp sequence I completely messed it up a gave up as I was out of energy. After resting for a bit and brushing the holds I sent the crux sequence easily. The send go will need to be on another day

On the second attempt it was probably my best in the session, I flowed easily to the fifth draw, but clipped it with my right hand above it instead of using the undercling which is better, and then I didn't have the crimp sequence dialed, I struggled and managed to get the left hand pocket to get out of the roof but I was getting too pumped and didn't get my left foot high enough so I took a fall there. After resting for a bit and brushing the holds I tried another beta, going down on the crimps and then you can get into a position with big foot holds and okay hands, and you could rest in that position, but I am not strong enough to do that, I was not getting any energy back in my arms, plus then you need to do a couple moves to reach the pocket hold (which you can do it with right hand though, which makes to move to get over the roof easier) so I discarded this beta for now.

Warm up route. Back to it after 1 year of sending it for the first time, almost felt like a on sight climb though. Nice to see how my climbing has improved since. I feel like now I can enjoy the route a lot more and appreciate it. Some holds are starting to get polished, don't forget to brush the excess chalk.

Route to warm up after resting for lunch and the heat.

This was the first route I did a lead climb on, two years ago. I came back it it as a last minute send as it was getting dark, and when reaching the top I found a carabiner that someone that was top ropping it left it there. I actually found the climbing in the first bolts more difficult than I remember, there are some really small and bad holds, I am surprised how I flashed this. Then after getting up the crack the top middle of the route is a gorgeous slab climb, reminds me of some routes in Reguengo do Fetal. I am downgrading it from "good" to "average" as it felt like it can be an annoying climb for some folks, and the last two 7a+ I tried (Bola Forçada and Tubarão com pêlo) feel like so much better routes.